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Digital Multimeter Tester US $2.98/AU $3.89 Delivered @ AliExpress

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Digital Multimeter Tester US $2.98/AU $3.89 Delivered @ AliExpressAffiliate
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altomic on 29/09/2016 - 19:52 aliexpress.com (1132 clicks)
Last edited 30/09/2016 - 10:29 by 1 other user
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after a cheap multimeter?

here you go.

I have this model (bought from DSE for $8 5 years ago.

does everything you need it to do.

Item specifics
Operating Mode:Handle
Display Type:Digital DisplayOperating
Temperature:0 - 50 ℃
Measuring Inductance Range:200 Ohm-2000K Ohm
Measuring Capacitance Range:Top
Measuring Voltage Range:
Max AC Voltage range:1000VDIY Supplies:Electrical
Measuring Current Range:Max AC Current:10A
Measuring Resistance Range:200 Ohm-2000K Ohm
Dimensions:70X126X28 mm
Model Number:102951.02
Color available:Yellow, Black
Diode Check:2.8V/1mA
Battery Check:1.5V, 9V
Power:9V battery (6F22)(not Include in the packaging)

Mod WARNING: This item does not carry the required Electrical Safety Certifications for Sale or Supply (and/or installation) in Australia. It may be dangerous to use this device.

Electrical & Electronics Multimeter

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closed Comments

  • jv on 29/09/2016 - 19:55
    +4

    Digital Multimeter Tester

    How exactly does this test your digital multimeter ?

    • altomic on 29/09/2016 - 20:02
      +21

      I'm sorely disappointed that i didn't receive your 40,000th comment. therefore I'm not going to answer your question.

      • jv on 29/09/2016 - 20:26

        you should have bid higher then… not my fault you're a cheapskate…

        start saving for 50,000…

    • retiredfeline on 29/09/2016 - 23:48
      +1

      And before testing your multimeter you will need a tester for the tester. And so on. Profit!

  • eug on 29/09/2016 - 20:00
    +2

    Power:9V battery (6F22)(not Include in the packaging)

    The battery will cost as much as the meter!

    Cheap meters are acceptable for low-voltage stuff, if they're accurate and stay accurate. I'd be wary about using non-rated meters for mains voltages though.

    • altomic on 29/09/2016 - 20:05
      +1

      Batteryworld sell 9v batteries for 99cents

    • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 20:24
      +1

      I'd be more worried about inexperienced people measuring mains voltages. Now I was trained in my undergraduate Electrical Engineering course how to safely use a multimeter.

      But… we all make mistakes sometimes. I've connected a very similar DS $6 cheapie on resistance or continuity range across a suspected faulty mains timer inside equipment. Forgot to do usual checks & device was still connected to mains. Only time I've ever made that mistake. Meter simply failed - no spectacular flash or anything. Just failed. Disappointed. But at least it was my disposable cheapie meter that died.

      So a cheapie meter can be useful if used correctly. Most uses don't require fantastic accuracy - that's when a good meter is necessary.

      • Drifta on 29/09/2016 - 23:16
        +1

        In year 12, was messing around with my first multimeter and had a faulty multi-board where 1 of the 4 sockets was not working properly. the individual switch was off and being an idiot, had it opened up and connected to the mains. wanted to test if it was getting 240 and I don't know what i had the meter set to but got a massive zap! was scared to go near something like that again for about 5years until I gained confidence again after getting through to the final year of mechatronics degree and using expensive fluke meters.

        • INFIDEL on 30/09/2016 - 02:10

          Glad you survived😯

          I disassembled anything I could get my hands on from an early age. So experienced mains electric shocks at primary school age, enjoying the thrill of defeating death, but learning what not to do. Lucky my parents never knew.

          Even at that age I had learnt how to handle circuits (fairly) safely. I never used both hands when dealing with potentially live circuits, never held the meter, & wore rubber soled sandshoes. (Not really recommended, but I survived.)

          I got my first multimeter around age 10. I remember it well.

          But it's easy to fail to take precautions when in a hurry, inexperienced, or not quite up to the task on the day.

          For safety, just say N0 to 240
          (230V is supposedly standard now)

      • IVI on 30/09/2016 - 09:00

        Find & View some of the better YouTube REVIEWS OF MULTIMETERS

        Some seem Hazardous By Design, like some low-end power boards.

        PS Also, without antiSlip coating, you're more likely to Drop a M'meter.

        Pay enough to get one that stays in your hand, or stands on your desk,
        Supported by a Kickstand (which really help on an iPad mini case).

        • INFIDEL on 30/09/2016 - 09:09

          Good points.
          I use a rubber cases with fold out stand. Included with 2 multimeters - a $10 Aldi & about $7 deal here, both ages ago (hold function & backlight). Very useful.

          Safety first! Always best not to hold meter in hand - to free up your hand for those 2 test probes (preferably use jumper cables) & in case anything should go wrong with meter. (My first meter was a metal cased Sanwa analog meter, so I got used to not holding it.)

          NEVER DROP TEST EQUIPMENT.
          It may look ok externally but safe operation may be severely compromised if internal connections or circuit board are damaged!!

  • hamwhisperer on 29/09/2016 - 20:14
    +5

    While it's damn cheap I'd kinda prefer something a bit more modern, powerful on special for like 5 to 15x the price.
    I watched some youtube videos by a guy who knows his stuff and yeah some of the low end ones are quite unsafe.

    • amanvell on 29/09/2016 - 20:17

      Yeah, I can't stress enough do not trust cheap multimeters. You don't want to be holding one when it grenades from current it cannot handle but says it's rated for.

      • hamwhisperer on 29/09/2016 - 20:21

        I think the guy was Aussie or Scottish on youtube but he really liked one particular brand - unfortunately they ain't cheap. His testing did indeed blow a few up.

        Mind you, I've had a 'multimeter' search configured on OzB for 2 years and rarely does it get hits.

        • altomic on 29/09/2016 - 20:28
          +1

          True. I use mine for basic measuring of laptop power bricks or xondirming that there is a current running through a circuit.That's pretty much it. This multimeter is fine for that. Totally agree that I'd you are after precision readings then pay more. But if you want a basic unit e.g. reading car voltages, then this is perfect.

        • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 20:34

          @altomic:
          Most people just require a meter to confirm low voltages etc like you say.

          Not worth spending a lot on a meter until you know you need more than a basic one like this can do. Just maybe forget about measuring mains voltages until you are more experienced.

          I've had many meters over the years. Ones like this have been all I needed 90% of the time. Always good to have more than 1 meter.

          No one who needs highly accurate test equipment (few do) would be interested in this deal, but for a beginner or for basic measurement or occasional or backup use - would be good. Handy to keep one in the car.

        • rhangman on 29/09/2016 - 20:58
          +2

          Can get genuine Fluke models that aren't supposed to be sold outside of China fairly cheap (not this cheap).

        • scrimshaw on 29/09/2016 - 21:25

          Dave from Eevblog? He seems like he knows his stuff and is always warning against cheap Chinese multimeters but for a lot of amateur users the professional grade stuff is a few hundred more than they are willing to spend.

          http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/cheap-mulitmeters-what…

          For low voltage applications and students I'd say cheapie is probably ok. But I'm not Dave nor am I a engineering student.

        • [Deactivated] on 29/09/2016 - 22:37

          @rhangman: how cheap we talking?

        • llama on 29/09/2016 - 23:10

          @scrimshaw:

          Dave from EEVblog is an absolute (profanity). He only recommends $300 meters - except for his own EEVblog rebrand of a Bryman, of course.

          The danger of these cheap meters is that the leads are not rated for mains voltage, and the fuses inside are glass. If you accidentally leave it on 10A Current and the prongs touch the mains, then there is a chance that it will literally explode.

          I keep one of this exact model in the garage for checking continuity of fuses, testing LEDs, checking batteries, and similar ELV tasks. They are handy for that. The accuracy is actually not too bad, and can be tweaked inside if you have a voltage reference and the skill to adjust it.

        • hamwhisperer on 30/09/2016 - 07:20

          @Infidel: I agree for the most part, the frustrating thing is that the nicer quality cool ones never get posted here.

        • hamwhisperer on 30/09/2016 - 07:20

          @rhangman: That's the brand the youtuber was talking about.

        • rhangman on 30/09/2016 - 09:37

          @sqeeksqeek:
          Checkout AvE. He did some videos (vijeos), should list the model number and price in Canadian pesos. Also as I recall there's one unlocking extra functions which they disabled.

          Talking cheap for genuine fluke though, still not cheap for a multimeter. For a decent cheap one, the XL830L isn't bad, except for the leads which are junk. Standard banana plugs though, so just replace them.

        • Wakt on 30/09/2016 - 18:38

          @rhangman:

          Correct! I just received mine on Monday.
          Box has Chinese writing but the Multimeter itself is all written in English.

          It's a Fluke 18B+ (Genuine) and only cost me $150 delivered.
          Cat II rated for 1000v.
          Cat III rated for 600v.

          Hold function, White backlit screen, Large Numbers and display.
          Build quality is excellent.
          Highly recommend it if you looking for something alot better but don't want to spend $400 on a highend Fluke or Agilent.

      • Jamesx on 29/09/2016 - 20:21

        What about if it's 10 times expensive? It's the quality that matters.

      • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 20:43

        How can you hold a test meter in your hand as you say, and also apply the 2 test leads safely on high current or voltage?

        I was always taught not to hold the meter & preferably to use jumper cables etc to connect meter to equipment. Basic safety precautions.

        Best people learn how to safely use a meter first, no matter what the price. Incorrectly using an expensive meter can also be dangerous. The competence of the user is often more important than the safety ratings of the test equipment.

  • figarow on 29/09/2016 - 20:26
    +3

    $4.31 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Multimeter-with-Buzzer-Oh… if you like black.. be quick.

    • Snoovey on 29/09/2016 - 21:01

      I like the continuity check, but what is "buzzer measurement" ?

      • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 21:04
        +1

        That is the continuity check - buzzer sounds when there is a circuit ie about 0 ohms. Just easier & quicker than having to read the meter on resistance range.

      • BensonP on 29/09/2016 - 21:05

        It's simply an audible continuity check. It'll buzz if the resistance is below a certain level…usually 5 ohms.

        Makes cable tracing easier so you aren't staring at the meter all day.

    • fastnbulbous on 29/09/2016 - 23:18
      +1

      Thanks, I like my multimeter like i like my coffee

      • airzone on 30/09/2016 - 08:14

        Once you go black….

  • videoman on 29/09/2016 - 20:57

    Thanks OP. This looks exactly the same as the one I got from masters a couple of weeks ago for $7

    http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:BgPdHOV…

  • fantombloo on 29/09/2016 - 21:02
    +1

    Rated for 1000V. "Cheap imported volts," similar to cheap imported lumens, except this can kill you. Approach with caution.

    • figarow on 29/09/2016 - 21:07

      If people are not being killed by these surely it will be ok?

    • lsdbeta on 29/09/2016 - 21:40
      +1

      our mains power is 240V. If you were in the business of testing anything even remotely close to 1000V, I'm sure you'd already have a wonderful multimeter. But if the fact that it's rated at 1000V and you don't trust it doing 1000V, I think we're on the safe side for everyday use to be honest.

      • elusive on 29/09/2016 - 22:30
        +1

        Look up multimeter category ratings and transient voltages. There was something about maximum failure current too.

        A cat1 1000V meter should not be used on mains while a cat2 600V can be.

  • supnigs super skids on 29/09/2016 - 21:16

    I had one of these. The lcd doesn't show proper unless you press really hard. It old now

  • intra on 29/09/2016 - 21:24

    I'd stay away from cheap multimeters as far as i can

  • Gunther on 29/09/2016 - 21:33
    +1

    Good for testing small batteries right? AA, AAA, 9V etc?

    • videoman on 29/09/2016 - 21:37

      Yes

    • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 21:57
      +2

      Not really. Only for testing battery voltage not whether it is at full charge etc

      There is basically no load applied by the meter, so an almost discharged battery may still appear to have about full voltage, depending on battery type.

      But if you are asking this question, I think the topic of resistive loads may not be what you want to learn about. Plenty of cheap simple battery testers available which would be more useful for that task.

      • Jackson on 29/09/2016 - 23:06

        You could put a light bulb in between with an extra wire

        • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 23:28
          +1

          Beat you to that😀
          That's a commonly used resistive load, used in series with the meter as you describe.

          But hardly worth the effort as analogue battery testers are so cheap from China. Been using one for over 10 years.

        • Jackson on 29/09/2016 - 23:34
          +2

          @Infidel: Yeah I was being a little facetious, and wanting to display my rudimentary knowledge of electric circuits

        • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 23:36

          @Jackson:
          Well displayed😯
          Glad your wiring knowledge helped fix your PVR!

    • eug on 29/09/2016 - 22:03
      +1

      If testing batteries, make sure you apply a load. Otherwise you'll be measuring the open circuit voltage.

    • Wally on 30/09/2016 - 11:19

      tl;dr these cheap units are accurate until deliberately blownup

      there another vid that shows it can handle 10A for long period with 0.03 error

  • R4 on 29/09/2016 - 22:06
    +5

    I'm a qualified electrician and an electrical engineer

    I wouldn't go near this thing

    • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 22:14
      +3

      I would 😯
      But I'd be worried if you used this in your work😀

      It's the use it's put to & how its used that matters more.
      Most would only use this for low voltages and current, not requiring absolute accuracy.

      Measuring mains voltages is best left to trained professionals. Even high quality equipment poorly used can be dangerous.

      • supnigs super skids on 29/09/2016 - 22:32

        Good for measuring batteries

        • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 22:36

          See same question above

        • supnigs super skids on 29/09/2016 - 22:43
          -1

          @Infidel: For capacity set to A.

        • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 22:53
          +1

          @supnigs:
          Not sure what you mean by A?

          But wouldn't recommend setting meter to current setting (eg 10A in this case) as will apply an almost short circuit across battery, possibly damaging it.

          Setting meter to lower current settings may damage meter or blow internal fuse as high capacity (eg rechargeable batteries) may deliver too large current.

        • supnigs super skids on 29/09/2016 - 22:55
          -1

          @Infidel: I've done it for years. Just tap it no loonger than 2 seconds

        • Gmetal on 29/09/2016 - 22:57

          @supnigs: uhh absolutely not? You could measure the current coming out of the battery, but only if you break the circuit. And even then, you'd need to know what the device normally draws to be able to work out if the battery is dying. If you just set it to A and connect it around it, you are just shorting the battery which is bad for it.

        • supnigs super skids on 29/09/2016 - 22:59

          @Gmetal: okay.

          What I found is new batteries output high current. End ofife batteries is under 300ma.

          Works for me anyway. Similar to the light bulb trick.

        • Gmetal on 29/09/2016 - 23:02

          @supnigs: Yea ok that probably does work, but with certain batteries it can cause gas to be released, but i guess for a couple seconds it hopefully should be ok.

        • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 23:04

          @supnigs:
          Adding a lightbulb in series with the meter provides a gentler resistive load when checking battery capacity on current setting.

          A lightbulb across the battery will need to be of a voltage to suit the battery. Brightness roughly indicates capacity.

          But why not just buy a cheap battery tester that has been roughly calibrated to show capacity. That provides the same resistive load each time. Analogue meters are normally used as they provide more of a resistive load. Much gentler on the batteries, meaning a longer life - paying for the cheap battery tester.

        • llama on 29/09/2016 - 23:14

          @supnigs:

          For capacity set to A

          And tap twice for a AA, and three times for a AAA.

          I notice there are a number of settings for D-C cells, which one is best?

        • supnigs super skids on 29/09/2016 - 23:17

          yeah. Thanks . SLA batteries only needs a voltage test.

          I really only use this method on alcaline to test which almost dead ones I can salvage into clocks

        • supnigs super skids on 30/09/2016 - 09:41

          @llama: for you, keep tapping THE D :)

    • Jackson on 29/09/2016 - 23:21
      +5

      Who cares? I am sick of all these people saying they wouldn't put a $4 multimeter into their 240V. In 20 years of piss farming around with cars, electronics, computers, phones, and just about everything else in my house, I have not once thought of sticking my multimeter on the mains. If you need to work on live mains then yeah ok buy a decent meter but get and electricians license while you are at it. For everyone else that wants to work on low voltage DC, which runs 99% of devices in circulation these days, buy this.

      • R4 on 30/09/2016 - 11:33

        Relax turbo

        Each to their own. From my first day as an apprentice, I was taught to only use the best quality tools - something that I have applied ever since. You do what you want to do

        No problem with anyone using a multimeter to test mains voltage - it's not rocket science. They are designed to do it

        This idea that only electricians can work with mains voltage is very much an Australian thing - many other countries allow non-electricians to do limited work on wiring and electrical equipment and installations. We really are an uber nanny-state

        We used to work on live mains - and it is safe to do so if you know what you're doing - but that practice is now frowned upon and may even now be illegal

        • Jackson on 30/09/2016 - 18:53

          Sorry mate, I could have posted on a number of people's comments it just happened to be yours. TBH we are mostly in agreeance, if you are planning on being a sparky then it makes sense to buy quality items, but if you are like most people on this site and want to have a crack at a few things that aren't normally up your alley expensive equipment is a barrier to entry.

          I also agree with you that people should be allowed to do their own electrical work if they are confident to do so, but I would draw the line for most people at being able to wire something when it isn't live, and being able to turn it on and see if it worked for them. Maybe in this age of RCDs we are a bit safer but the consequences of being electrocuted could take away a life.

      • bigticket on 01/10/2016 - 02:25

        Totally agree. These cheapo meters are physically poor quality but I have found them to be very accurate by comparing to my fluke. For low voltage work i.e. car voltages of ~12V within .01-.02 volts. They are more than accurate for most uses.

        As for measuring mains voltages - DON'T.
        Even though these are rated 1000V the internal chip will blow, if not the first time they see 240V, shortly after. The chip is not the problem though. Safety is, and if you are using this type of meter, its mostly likely you are unqualified to do so.

        • INFIDEL on 01/10/2016 - 07:07

          Yes, definitely accurate enough for everyday use. Handy to have as a spare meter.

          I've used this type of very cheap meter on 240V so many times - no safety problems. But the user should know what they're doing.

          The chip has never blown on a few different units I've used (left in different areas of house & vehicles), unless you don't follow safety precautions & mistakenly put it on the wrong range. We all make mistakes - did not check other person failed to disconnect mains & I failed to check voltage first on a quick job. Even then it just stopped working - lucky it was a $6 cheapie & I never hold a meter, especially when checking possible high voltages or currents.

          I've already pointed out safety precautions should always be taken with any test equipment no matter what the price.

          Best not to hold a meter where possible, but place on a non-slip insulated surface or use a rated rubber case / stand. You really need both hands free.

  • Gmetal on 29/09/2016 - 22:42
    +4

    If you are testing batteries (well actually no multimeters can do this properly, but you know what i mean), polarity or continuity, or some harmless DC electronics, go for it.

    But never, ever use this on anything AC powered. Not even on what should be the DC powered side of the unit. Seriously, it is incredibly unsafe.

    • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 23:00
      +1

      This should apply to all test equipment, no matter what the price -

      If you don't know what you are doing, don't do it. Some equipment packs a punch long after it has been unplugged from the mains!

      Learn about electrical safety & get advice from someone who has training in the area.
      Wear appropriate clothing (footwear), watch where you put your hands or tools - keep away from higher voltages & currents, electricity & water are dangerous together.

      Never work on higher voltage (eg Mains) circuits by yourself.
      Place meter on insulated surface or in rubber case/stand - don't hold it.

      Preferably get someone to mentor you while you learn. I found an old electrician while I was in primary school who taught me. I attended an academic conference for electrical engineers in high school.

      (Of course I've broken all of those & learnt from it.)

  • jd4free on 29/09/2016 - 23:28

    Max of 2 per ALiexpress account

  • mitcheo on 29/09/2016 - 23:29
    -1

    I thought they where $4.95 @ jaycar but after checking website $9.95. You have to be careful with the wires they break easy but having one of these is better then nothing.

    • INFIDEL on 29/09/2016 - 23:33

      Sometimes on special, at least used to be. That's why I bought 2 last time - another meter is often cheaper than replacement test leads & handy to have a spare meter in the car, kitchen, anywhere 😯

  • Wally on 29/09/2016 - 23:53

    Finished now? Cannot see that price! $6.20 plus postage now

  • searedtuna on 29/09/2016 - 23:55

    Just when I was checking my order before submitting, the price went up to $6.20 :(

    • Wally on 29/09/2016 - 23:55

      mee too

  • [Deactivated] on 30/09/2016 - 00:17
    +1

    Ideal for testing power in South Australia, but that's about it

  • OzBMate629 on 30/09/2016 - 00:22

    Lol they had these at my school.

  • [Deactivated] on 30/09/2016 - 00:27
    +1

    I'll stick with my fluke

    • eug on 30/09/2016 - 01:27
      +1

      Surely you want a piece of equipment that gives you accurate readings every time, rather than a fluke?
      :)

      • INFIDEL on 30/09/2016 - 01:38

        Aren't flukes blood suckers^. I've never got an accurate reading from one.

        But I did pass a Uni biology exam by identifying one - but that was just a fluke😀

        ^a group of parasitic flatworms that probably evolved from free-living forms millions of years ago. There are more than 10,000 species of flukes.

      • [Deactivated] on 01/10/2016 - 00:09

        ha ha ;P

    • INFIDEL on 30/09/2016 - 01:33

      These can be thought of as a disposable meter for situations (dirty/greasy/corrosion, risk of damage, etc) where you would not want to risk using a Fluke. I use this type as a small backup meter, leave in car just in case, or if someone insists they need to borrow a meter. None of those uses require a high degree of accuracy.

    • hamwhisperer on 30/09/2016 - 07:21

      Are they ever cheap though?
      I never see them posted here.

      • eug on 30/09/2016 - 10:17

        Are they ever cheap though?

        Yes :)

        • hamwhisperer on 30/09/2016 - 10:21

          "EViL.GENiUS on 27/01/2013 - 01:26 dx.com (2633 clicks)" lol :(

  • MynyMouqe on 30/09/2016 - 06:30
    -5

    Don't risk yourself with a cheap meter that may not meet safety standards, just not worth it. At least spring for a cheap from Jaycar etc where you know it's been through some QC.

    • MynyMouqe on 30/09/2016 - 07:39

      Oh hai there neg by nighters, I see you don't like my comment. Because, you know, the Chinese have never copied a product and made it look the same on the outside but have very compromised safety on the inside (dodgy phone chargers etc). But hey, $5 saving compared to a "known good" version - that's worth the chance of it possibly killing me!

      • hamwhisperer on 30/09/2016 - 10:08

        I mostly agree with you but the manufacturing of goods in Australia is god damned dead, half the 'trustable' stores out there now in Australia are just re-selling cheap crap too, likely made in the same factory. I'm pretty comfortable making the claim that a larger portion of goods on Aussie shelves (digital or physical) are not inspected / QAd properly than ever before.

  • fritzsticker on 30/09/2016 - 09:03

    How do i test car battery with these? Do i place the black lead to the negative side of car battery and red lead to positive side of battery? And what is the usual range? Above 12v for car battery?

    • altomic on 30/09/2016 - 09:12

      To test a car battery with a multimeter, set the multimeter to measure DC voltage, and set the dial to 20 volts; with the car off, disconnect the battery cables and attach the multimeter leads to the positive (RED) and negative(BLACK) posts on the battery.

    • eug on 30/09/2016 - 10:25
      +1

      Bear in mind that a multimeter will only tell you the open circuit voltage of the battery. You really need a load tester if you want an accurate picture of the battery's condition.

      Alternatively you could also use a heavy load like two halogen headlight bulbs.

      • llama on 30/09/2016 - 14:47
        +1

        Alternatively you could also use a heavy load like two halogen headlight bulbs.

        Even more logically, you could use a heavy load like a car engine.

        How to test a car battery the easy way:
        1. Turn key and attempt to start the car
        2. Did the engine start? If yes, then battery is OK.
        3. If engine did not start, did starter kick it over for more than 20 seconds? If yes, then battery is OK.
        4. Otherwise, battery is not OK.

        • fritzsticker on 30/09/2016 - 15:12

          Haha

        • eug on 30/09/2016 - 15:19

          Using a meter and a load eliminates the car and any issues it may have from the equation. When troubleshooting, you'd want as few variables as possible.

        • Jackson on 30/09/2016 - 19:00

          This is the first thing to do, but doesn't take into account that it could be the battery isn't charging, rather than the battery has shat it

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