Beelink Mini-PCs EQ14 and S13Pro N150 CPU, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD $299.20 (Sold Out) or 500GB SSD $289 Delivered @ Beelink Amazon AU

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The latest version of Beelink's quiet EQ13 mini PC but with a refreshed processor. Reviews say the N150 is only a small performance increase from the N100 with a higher TDP (6 W vs 10W), but given the EQ14 with 16GB RAM and 1TB storage is on sale for $299.20 currently and the OzB ATL for the EQ13 with N100 CPU, 16GB RAM and only 500GB storage is $329 I think this is a great deal.

The EQ14 with 16GB RAM and 500GB storage is $10.20 cheaper but imho not worth saving 10 buckaroos.

The S12 Pro with N100, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD is $259 but I’d prefer the EQ14 since it’s known to run silently and has dual Ethernet. S12Pro: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0C1N5287T

The S13 Pro with N150, 16GB RAM, 1TB storage is also $299 but again I’d prefer the EQ14. S13Pro: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0DPQC6DRV

Some reviewers have had minor driver issues with Linux though, there's a pretty good breakdown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8MUCR0u_7A. TL;DR you may need to go onto non-LTS Ubuntu or beta for hardware acceleration on Proxmox

Specs:

⚡【Latest Intel Alder Lake-N150】The EQ14 mini pc features 2024 latest Intel processor Alder Twin-N150 (4C/4T, up to 3.6 GHz, 25W TDP Max). Low power consumption and compact size makes the mini computer the first choice for light office work, 4K video playback, online training, design and much more.
⚡【Powerful Memory & Expandability】Mini PC with high-speed 16GB DDR4 memory and 1TB M.2 2280 SSD. This mini PC is perfect for everyday work and content creation. It provides powerful storage without severely draining system resources. Plus, You can expand storage to 2TB by adding an M.2 2280 SSD (NVMe/SATA).
⚡【4K Ultra HD Display】 Beelink N150 is equipped with UHD Graphics 24EUs 1000MHz, supports 4K video playback, providing smooth and gorgeous visual effects. You can also connect this mini PC to a projector to create a home theater and enjoy all kinds of entertainment. The Dual HDMI Mini PC allows you to connect two monitors simultaneously, simplifying and increasing your productivity.
⚡【Dual 1000M LAN & Wifi6】Beelink N150 has dual 1000M Ethernet ports that enable fast data transmission to meet your daily needs. Built-in WiFi6 (Intel AX101) and BT5.2, delivers a faster and more stable internet experience for you.
⚡【Satisfactory service】 Beelink mini pc will be delivered to customers only after strict inspection. Customer support makes our products better, which is our motivation to continue to bring better products to customers. Provide one year warranty, if you have any questions, please contact us.

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Comments

  • +2

    Can this be used to connect to a NVR, and then wirelessly to a guest wifi network? Thinking to use this as a temp solution rather than spending similar amounts for a router eith VLAN that are expensive

    Potentially in the future, may use this to run blue iris

    • Yeah pfSense or OPNsense will work on these, and it would be the lower cost approach compared to a prosumer/business grade router.

      You might find that it’s suitable as permanent solution if the requirement stays the same.

    • You can do the guest network thing and vlans with a mikrotik or ubiquiti router for $100-150ish

      What are you trying to achieve here, there might be a simpler / more cost effective way?

      • I want to seperate my camera setup from all my personal devices in event of a breach as the cameras are using p2p connections.

        What do you suggest? The reolink NVR does not have wifi capability.

        • +3

          oh yeah that's some ezpz stuff right there.

          So the term you're looking for is VLAN.

          If I were setting up a business, this is how I'd do it (and how you should). We're going to ignore router hardware / specifics for now. IP addresses are examples.

          VLAN1/Default VLAN - 192.168.68.0/24 (this means addresses in the 1-254 range on the end point).
          VLAN69/Camera VLAN - 192.168.69.0/24

          Router connects up to modem as normal and provides internet to the 2 subnets. Firewall rules dictate that the subnets 192.168.68.0/24 & 192.168.69.0/24 cannot communicate with one another.

          From here you can either just assign a port on the router to be for each vlan (not a true vlan really since it's untagged then) and plug that into your NVR or an unmanaged switch for all camera hardware.

          If you want to take it a step further, you could add some rules that state that vlan69 actually can't access the internet and is purely local.

          In terms of hardware, Mikrotik is going to be too hard for you to do this on as a non IT fella unless you really want to get your hands dirty.

          The ubiquiti edgerouters should support all the above and hold your hand through it all a bit more but I don't personally have experience, but now that you know what terms to google you can probably read a guide or 2 and see if it's within your means. I've also heard good things about TPLink Omada hardware. Someone else might be able to chime in on a more end user friendly vlan capable routing platform.

          On another note though, what are you really concerned about? Let's think of what can tangibly go wrong here, let's say your home network is compromised. What exactly is on it that is unsecured? A few RTSP / onvif streams on some cameras perhaps, a baby monitor etc but the level of "someone giving a shit" to actually go through those is pretty wild. Like a device of yours needs to be compromised, say a camera, then your network actively scanned for something that can be accessed and then what exactly can be done with whatever is accessed?

          I'm a paranoid IT guy, but sometimes for a home setup things like this are just overkill. That said this is how mine is all setup, but with some additional complexity but it's what I do and I enjoy it.

          Feel free to ask any questions.

          • @knk: I am not concerned about people looking through my feed as it's all external facing cameras. I am more concerned about people using the camera as a piggyback to get into my personal network and into my PC. e.g) having access to scanned passports/driver license etc.

            As long as I separate my cameras as an isolated VLAN (or similar), I will be happy.

            I've heard good things about ubiquiti. Is the security protection the same as a Mikrotik, or are there flaws it is focused on a UI friendly interface?

            • @bargin424: Yeah but tangibly right, say I get my hackerman on and get into your home network. Are you using unsecured network shares for these files locally? I'm just saying that it would be a stretch for anyone to get access to your personal items. But it's good to cover all avenues.

              My main gripes with the ubiquiti gear is that there's a lack of customisation / granularity in the configuration - on the routers anyway. That's why I use Mikrotik. For you that doesn't really matter. From a security perspective you'll be just fine with ubiquiti. As always just don't expose your admin interfaces to the web and you're good.

              • @knk: Hmmm good point. I don't have a network share operating, but I like to be on the safe side than anything. Just been reading a few articles about how vulnerable p2p is and don't want to be exposed.

                Which Ubiquiti product do you recommend?

                • @bargin424: From memory the edgerouter series don't need a controller, get one of the non unifi ones (unless you want to go all in) then you can have all your wifi / routing etc in one nice pretty (but somewhat limited) interface.

                  Don't quote me on any of that, I haven't personally used them for routing in years and even then I've barely touched on it.

          • @knk: Even though I won't do all of this. It's good education/knowledge.

            Thanks for taking the time.

  • so bet N150 must be perform better than N100?

    • +3

      The naming convention is misleading. The N97 also outperforms the N100 but consumes more power.

      • +8

        The naming convention is completely insane. N97 outperforms N100 but uses more power and now N150 outperforms N100 but uses more power but not as much as N97

        • +1

          The question is then which has more performance - N97 or N150?

    • +10

      This one has DDR4 RAM though.

      An N100 with DDR5 is going to outperform an N150 with DDR4 in many use cases, probably the majority of use cases.

      These systems (N100, N150 etc) don't support dual channel RAM, they only do single channel, so if you put 2 sticks of RAM into the system they share one channel. Because of this, the bandwidth advantage of DDR5 over DDR4 has a more significant performance impact than it otherwise would for this tier of system (ie. low performance system).

      Also keep in mind these are iGPU systems so if you intend to make good use of that iGPU (eg. gaming) then you're dealing with the issue that iGPU's in general are bottlenecked by sys RAM performance even in dual channel RAM systems. The biggest performance boost of the N150 over the N100 appears to be the iGPU frequency bump, but because sys RAM is so important to iGPU's I think you'll find the N100 with DDR5 still has better iGPU performance than the N150 with DDR4 in many games.

      • +4

        Yep I cancelled my order on Saturday after seeing the performance of the n150 (with DDR4) is slower in most benchmarks than an N100 (with DDR5). This machine is pretty nice though.

        For about $100 more there is the i3-1220p Beelink with 24GB ram which looks pretty good value too.

        • +3

          I have the 1220P Beelink, its a great little machine, currently running my Home Assistant with 2000 entities, plus Frigate running 4x 4K + 2x 2K cameras (with a Rocal TPU in the 2nd NVMe slot), the 15m load averages are between 1 and 2, very happy with it.

          • @bircoe: Do you have it setup with the multiple NICs and an isolated camera network?

            I’m in the middle of doing the same, just with the Google Coral.

            Planning on running HassOS in a VM, and then Frigate in Docker on Debian bare metal. Although I might switch to Ubuntu for HW accel drivers.

            • @porterble: I haven't done that as all my cameras are on my normal network, its a good idea though.

          • @bircoe: Got a link to this Rocal TPU or is it Coral?

        • These things are single channel too, I think for simple home server/homelab stuff the Adler Lake N stuff is ideal due to low power usage. For anything else, a low end i3 like yourself, or even a Ryzen 4700u system can be had for around the same price which will blow these out of the water.

    • GPU = a few more frames (but still low) and CPU about 10% more computational power over the N100 and it uses a few more Watts per hour - with N100 systems being around the $200 mark (from aliexpress) personally I'm not seeing the attraction with the N150.

      https://androidpctv.com/intel-n150-review/

    • +2

      I yearn for the days when AMD had a CPU naming scheme that told you what the benchmarked performance of the CPU was. Combine that with the TDP - like G16-5W5350 - and they'd be being helpful to consumers. Intel's naming scheme is just plain gobbldegook.

      • Thats the industry trend. Look at dells latest naming scheme.

      • +2

        I agree. Hard to tell whether a Pro Max 395+ AI is better than a Ultra Core Premium AI Plus NPU.

        I miss the days when it was pure MHz!

  • +1

    Do these outperform the various refurbished min-pcs that come up here on OzB?
    Like https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/873346

    • Would also like to know. I have one of those and find Chrome freezes from time to time, wondering whether this Beelink would be better or not……

    • +3

      Outperform in what?

      Power consumption? Single core or multi core performance? Encoding/decoding performance?

      Hard to answer without comparing to another specific CPU or use case.

    • +2

      The selling point of these is the low power consumption and small footprint. If those don't matter as much as performance to you, there are many other ways to go and plenty of refurb mini-pcs that will generally outperform.

    • +5

      unlikely. the refurb PCs (even though many generations behind) generally have i5 or i7 CPUs and handle multi-core jobs much better than the 4 core N100. However, if low power usage and quietness is what you're more interested in, then the n100s win in those regards. Personally I've been using an n100 based mini PC (Chuwi Larkbox x 2023) for over a year now as my main daily desktop pc - it handles web browsing, 1440p youtube playback and email quite happily. It is on nearly 24/7 downloading (usenet) as well. When I want to game, I switch on my gaming desktop (the n100 is small enough it sits on top of the gaming PC and I share the same mouse and keyboard between the two computers using a usb kvm like this - https://www.amazon.com.au/UGREEN-Computers-Peripheral-Switch…

      • However, if low power usage and quietness

        if you own a dell SFF or USFF, you will realize they are pretty quiet already.

        The main benefit is the AV1, small form factor
        However even the USFF is quite small already.

        24/7 downloading (usenet)

        Does the downloads get saved on the n100 SSD and then you move the files to another location?

        Also do you know store your data on a NAS or another PC?

        • +1

          before I bought the n100 based mini PC I was eyeing off the Lenovo USFF PCs we used at work (for batocera arcade gaming - but the older iGPU was terrible from memory).

          The on-board iGPU in the 100 mini PCs is good enough that I replaced my older android 10 based box and run Libreelec off a USB stick - I lose Dolby Vision (downgrades to HDR10+) and HDMI CEC control (though I made a HDMI CEC to usb adapter for the pc to work around that) but the snappiness of KODI running on the mini PC is fantastically responsive. I use the KODI Jellyfin plugin to sync with my Jellyfin streamer on the NAS - where I have all the 1080p and below media properly named and scraped for metadata. KODI only scrapes the 4K content (I have 4K stuff isolated from the 1080p media, in case I watch something at 4K and decide I won't watch it again at 4K, so I then re-download / re-encode a 1080p version instead).

          Re: usenet, I replaced the 512GB nvme with a 1TB nvme and I save stuff on the same PC until I get around to moving it to the NAS (saves power by only needing the modem, switch and the mini PC being on all the time). 4K native files I move direct to the NAS, 1080p x264 I re-encode to 1080p x265 to save space (usually between 50-90% file size reduction) and it reduces the bandwidth needed to stream it, with minimal quality loss (in my opinion, after directly comparing single frames of video between a lot of test cases before I embarked on my conversion quest). I do have Sonarr set up on the NAS, but I prefer to be a little picky with which releases I want to download / archive. I've also been ripping my own DVDs and blurays and x265 encoding them (keeping the audio as per the original media, cutting out different language audio and subtitles as well) for archive and access on the NAS / Jellyfin.

    • Most of those are going to be faster but consume more power.

      Just do a search on the processors and compare the benchmarks and you'll get an idea.

  • Operating System: Windows 11 Pro?

    • BYO OS. So whatever you want, you will need to install it. Doesn't appear to something with pre-installed OS.

    • +7

      I'd highly recommend formatting and installing your own O/S with any PC purchase. Less chance there's tonnes of bloatware or malware pre-installed. I made my own 'Tiny 11' installation and it runs in under 2GB RAM and uses something ridiculous like 8GB of NVME storage space. Add in 7zip, altbinz, thunderbird, chrome and malware bytes anti virus and that's all that is on my nightly usage computer for web browsing, email, youtube 1440p video watching and downloading.

      https://github.com/ntdevlabs/tiny11builder

      • Is it possible to remove the requirement for a Microsoft account during installation?

        • +7

          Yes. At Windows setup open CMD by pressing Shift+F10 then enter: OOBE/BypassNRO

          At the network screen you can select “I don’t have internet”.

          • @Tea-Aholic: Always gold in the comments. I'm about to set up a W11 pc for my father in law who doesn't even have an email address. This will save me some pain.

        • +1

          Yes. when it gets to the choose internet connect and log in to your microsoft account, open the command prompt with Shift + F10, then type OOBE\BYPASSNRO and press enter. Your computer will restart and you will have to go through the region settings etc. again but when you get to the choose internet / login with microsoft account you will have the "I don't have Internet" option - so you can just create a local admin account.

          • @gizmomelb: I just had a quick look at the Tiny11 builder. I assume it can't be used as a daily driver since security updates won't be available?

        • +1

          Rufus can remove these things too + the TPM requirement when you make your bootable USB. Couple of tick boxes only these days.

          • @knk: Cool, didn't know Rufus could do that now!

      • First thing I did when my EQ12 arrived was get rid of Windows and install Debian. It's the only way.

    • It comes with Windows, which you'll be getting rid of if you have any senses. Never just use a preinstalled OS out of the box, especially if you care about your privacy and security. Install an OS of your choice as soon as you get it. I got rid of Windows and installed Debian. You won't be gaming on these things, so no excuse to be using Windows at all.

  • +2

    I just bought the S13 recently and it runs great. I only need it for web browsing and Google docs, slides etc and it does it all flawlessly. I've got it hooked up to an ultrawide.

    • nice! I've been using a Chuwi Larkbox X 2023 for the past year for my nightly email, web browsing and youtube (1440p) watching, as well as almost 24/7 usenet downloading. Handles it all extremely well. I have a Kamrui n100 (AK2 plus?) which I will be setting up running proxmox and then install Home Assistant and pnsense or similar firewall.

  • How would this perform as a plex server?

    • +4

      from my experience the Intel GPU handles transcoding for 1080p streams quite nicely and will natively play back AV1 content - though to be honest you're better off with native streaming (no transcoding) from the server as it can then handle more streams. That is why I convert all the x264 content to x265 - the server can handle more simultaneous streams (including 4K). Note I'm running Jellyfin (it's free) instead of plex.

    • As a local plex server, it performs great and never had issues with high bitrate 4K streams. I have yet to try transcoding as i have a bit of a knowledge gap on how to do it as i'm having dramas sharing outside my network.

      • ahh I'm talking about someone externally trying to watch a 4K stream (UHD bluray rip), they often exceed the measly 20Mbps upsteam I have with my 100/20 NBN connection. A 4K resolution tv stream is ok (as it's usually fairly low bit rate) but my NBN is the bottleneck. Local 4K streams are fine over 1Gbe ethernet (I haven't tried wifi).

    • +1

      I use a N100 for my local plex server. Most of my content is stored in 1080p, but it handles it like a champ, in fact the low 6w TDP almost makes it preferrable over the N150.
      I've since added an additional SSD, larger M.2 drive and 32 GB RAM (because why not), and leave it on 24/7.

      I actually originally purchased it to give to an older uncle of mine who is still using a 1st gen i5-750 I built him 7 years ago, and so I tested the N100 for basic applications (internet browsing, youtube, word processing, email) and it was more than adequate for these tasks. These days he uses his phone for most of those tasks, so there isn't an urgent need to move to a new PC until Windows 10 becomes EOL.

  • +2

    Not as cheap as the N100s you might find elsewhere but its still a good deal because:

    • Beelink is a reputable brand so theres near 0% chance of having spyware preinstalled (even if the chance of this is already low)
    • decent RAM and SSDs (many N100 variants may only have 12GB)
    • Good and easier return/replace potential via Amazon

    If I didnt already have a few N100s, I would have bought one of these.

    • +1

      haha I'm sorry but saying anyone is a reputable brand so there's a lower chance of having spyware pre-installed is laughable. The top name brands like Dell, HP and Lenovo have all had instances where malware was installed on pre-built systems by the third party O/S installers looking to make some extra money on the side. No brand is beyond suspicion imo.
      As to whether the 10% or so more CPU and GPU power is worth a near 50% price point is up to the end buyer.

      • Agree with the facts you're presenting. Even top tier and big names could pre-package spyware onto computers. Disagree on your interpretation that these occurrences means that you're just as likely to get spyware from any seller/brand.

        Personally, I order the "noname" N100s and i get the cheapest SSD option. When they arrive, I boot them up offline and just make sure they work. Then I replace the SSD with a brand new one and re-install the OS from scratch.

        If I plan on installing Windows, then I will back up and export the drivers before replacing the drive, as a precaution. Although, with most of these N100 computers, most things work out of the box or with drivers online.

        I would generally do the same with any computer but not everybody has the time, knowledge or patience, so sometimes we have to take an educated risk.

    • +4

      EQ12 for proxmox duty.

      Just in case you want to re-purpose the device later as a windows device, go through the setup to the point you sign in. This will associate the key + device with your MS Account.

      For the security minded , ensure that MFA is working for MS account, or use another account that isn't your usual one.

      Can do this anyway, then a clean install of windows. Key should still work at install.

      • Yeah, EQ12 is the way to go. Love the DDR5 + 2.5GB Lan ports. I don't think the EQ13/14 make any sense. They're like a downgrade.

    • This deal was a good bit cheaper, with 16Gb RAM: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/843757 . I upgraded the RAM to 32Gb and it's running great with Proxmox.

  • Can this replace a NAS? Any extension to support RAID hard drives?

    • +3

      It only has the room for one NVME drive, so I guess you could, but it's not going to support RAID or SATA drives.

      There are so many questions for what sort of NAS you're after - do you need CPU and RAM for running virtual machines? Do you need / want lots of SATA connectors for large capacity hard drive storage? Do you want lots of NVME slots for FAST data access? Each one has a different answer.

      Personally, I wanted to upgrade my older NAS systems (HP n36l microservers) for more SATA storage capacity - so I bought a jonsbo N3 case (space for 8x 3.5" drives), an n5095 mini-ITX motherboard (has 12 SATA ports on board, 2x 1Gbe NICs, USB 3 and USB C ports), 16GB RAM and so far have 5x 10TB SATA drives in it (1 drive redundancy, Synology SHR drive configuration, I'll add more drives when I can afford it). I installed a fork of the Synology NAS operating system (auxxxilium) and it's running the 'ars' suite (sonarr, radarr, mylarr etc.) and jellyfin as well as a few other docker containers.

      • Was thinking about doing this with a Jonsbo and an n100 mini-itx. You happy with the N3?

        • +1

          I just built a machine with Jonsbo N2 and the Asus N100I-D4 mini-ITX board. Very happy with how it turned out. (Beware the fan noise though.)

          • +1

            @hmof: I've seen some mods where the default fans were replaced with (noctuas?) so they still moved the same amount of air, but were much quieter.

            • +1

              @gizmomelb: Yeah there are videos around about replacing the fans. Mine is in the garage where I don't care about the noise fortunately.

        • +1

          @philotex very happy with the space for 8 drives (and the N3 is about the same physical size as the HP n36l microservers I had previously, not happy it needed an SFX PSU (double the price of normal PSUs). With so many ventilation holes in the N3 I can easily hear the mechanical drives, but normal tv volume covers that. Still seriously considering buying a second N3 though for when I fill up the 8 bays in my current one, for a second NAS. The N5 can fit a normal ATX PSU, but it's a chonker of a case (about a third bigger in volume than the N3).

  • I have the n100 windows 11 from about a year ago Amazon deal, all fine for basic browsing etc but the Bluetooth wouldn't work have tried downloading and updating from multiple sites and driver updates etc can't get going, gave up couldn't be bothered reinstalling windows just bought a $10 Bluetooth USB adapter as don't use often . It's a PC for my bedroom tv, anyway that was a bit annoying otherwise like a lot for size n quiet etc

  • Do Beelink have a version of machine that we can plug in video card externally via docking when needed? Are those more expensive than building our own machine?

  • Anyone using one of these for Batocera duty?

    • +1

      not this exact model, I was using my intel n100 Larkbox X 2023 for batocera for a while and it handled most PS2 and Gamecube games upscaled to 1080p with no slowdowns (Shadow of the Colossus and God of War being the usual exceptions).

  • +1

    This would have been a perfect OPNSense/PFSense router/firewall until I realize it has only 1Gbe ports… problems for those using 2.5Gbe and up local network.

    • +1

      1GB ports is a lot for home network.. Most Protectli devices people use are 1 GB.. If you get the 4 port Protectli you can do spanning though.

      • I know.. just saying for those invested with 2.5gbe switches that would like to do routing at full speed.

        • there are other n100 based mini pcs that have 2.5Gbe dual NICs

          • @gizmomelb: Yep! I'm aware… I'm specifically talking about this model from my original comment above.

  • I been thinking one of these as a jbod nas for Plex and Jellyfin to put in a closet with a external hard drive attracted.

    Thoughts ?

    • +1

      copied from above - I have an n5095 mini-ITX motherboard (has 12 SATA ports on board, 2x 1Gbe NICs, USB 3 and USB C ports), 16GB RAM and so far have 5x 10TB SATA drives in it (1 drive redundancy, Synology SHR drive configuration, I'll add more drives when I can afford it). I installed a fork of the Synology NAS operating system (auxxxilium) and it's running the 'ars' suite (sonarr, radarr, mylarr etc.) and jellyfin as well as a few other docker containers. The N100 CPU is 'better' and uses less power plus has AV1 hardware decoding built in. You won't be able to provide multiple stream transcoding (which personally I don't see the point anyways), but I do convert any x264 media to x265 before it goes on my NAS / Jellyfin. Then anyone watching stuff generally watches the native 1080p files (I don't have fast enough upstream to steam 4K outside my network).

      • Thanks mate! When you say that it can't transcode multiple streams, I assume this depend on the size right? Think it could do a few 2gb h264 1080p streams into 720 say for mobile ?

        • you're more limited by your NBN upstream speed than the device - ie: I couldn't stream a high bitrate UHD bluray rip from my server even to a native playback device - I just can't exceed the <20Mbps upstream of my connection. Lots of others have commented on here in other n100 mini PC threads they transcode multiple streams with no issues and this video show how little overhead there is with the intel n100 and 1080p > 720p transcoding - https://youtu.be/1gat6eYWbgI?t=610

          • +1

            @gizmomelb: Thanks. I don't think I will stream many across the internet locally in the house.

            • @leftspeaker2000: should be able to handle multiple 4K transcoded streams then, though I've never really tried transcoding stuff sorry - generally I'll watch stuff only on a 1080p or above screen and let the device handle the CODEC (apart from the KODI player on the mini PC connected to the soundbar / tv).

    • I use an EQ12 as my Plex Server and simply have my media stored on an UnRaid server and connect it to the EQ12 via an NFS share. No need to directly plug in HDDs to these mini-PC. If you're using ethernet LAN, NFS shares are fine.

  • +1

    I'm looking for something with a bit more processing power. How does the EQi12 12650H for $629 rate on value? Does anyone recommend a better value alternative? I need a mini PC. repurposing a desktop would be to bulky for where I want this to go. https://www.amazon.com.au/Beelink-Pre-Installed-Desktop-Busi…

  • Anyone have any comments on the build quality of these Beelink devices, compared to the Intel NUCs of yesteryear? I always bought the Intels due to the 3 year warranty and bulletproof construction, but I'm wondering where I'll go from here…

    • +1

      I had a Beelink for a day but not this one, as I recall it was OK but not like a NUC. Out of curiousity which NUC do you have? I was looking up the benchmarks and these processors still have a way to go to catch up to the 6-year old i5.

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