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TP-Link Tapo Mini Smart Socket $15, w/ Energy Monitoring $17 + Delivery ($0 with Prime/ $59 Spend) @ Amazon AU

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Tapo P100
Tapo P110 Energy Monitoring

About this item:

  • Remote Control – Instantly turn connected devices on/off wherever you are through the Tapo app
  • Schedule – Preset a schedule to automatically manage devices
  • Timer - Create countdown timer lists for connected electronics
  • Voice Control – Manage your smart plug with voice commands via Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant
  • Compact Design - Mini-sized to avoid blocking adjacent sockets
  • TP-Link - World's No. 1 Provider of WLAN Products within last 11 years. Leading support - Industry leading 2-year warranty and 24/7 technical support
  • Energy Monitoring – Monitor real-time power consumption and energy spend via the Tapo App (only applicable for Tapo P110)
Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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Comments

  • +2

    I’m interested in the version with matter support but they don’t seem to carry it (p110m).

    • +4

      They do. I've seen the non-matter and matter versions listed at $15 and $21 respectively the past few days.

      Here's the link for the matter:
      https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/aw/d/B0CN2SWP7C though price is meh.

    • +6

      Important to note that they don't do power monitoring through matter yet.

      https://community.tp-link.com/en/smart-home/forum/topic/6722…

      • So that will be a firmware update?

        • +1

          Probably, but don't count in it. Buy products based on existing features, not promised features

      • +5

        so it doesn't matter now, lol.

    • +1

      Matter over thread or Matter over wifi?

      • +4

        I had the same question, turns out it is Wifi (2.4GHz only)

        Even the P110M is Matter-over-WiFi only. (also 2.4GHz only)

        Source: https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/smart-plug/tapo-p…
        Manufacturer's data sheet: https://static.tp-link.com/upload/product-overview/2023/202312/20231206/Tapo%20P110M(AU)1.0%20datasheet.pdf

        • 2.4 only is kind of incredible

  • +8
    • +2

      Plus shipping or pick up

      • +2

        You can price match with Jbhifi. That's what I did.

    • For those who want energy monitoring, the P110 is $15:
      https://www.digidirect.com.au/tp-link-tapo-mini-smart-plug-w…

      However, as discussed in comments below, I’d steer clear of the P100/P105/P110 as these are older models and prone to failing with the click of death. Best to get the newer P110M instead, but it looks like Digidirect doesn’t sell this model.

      • +1

        Looking at teardowns, they both user the same crappy relays that all these switches have used. I have no faith the problem is fixed in the matter versions.

        • That's a shame, so TP-Link are lying about using new components for the P110M? Have you got a link to the teardowns which show them using the same faulty relays or capacitors?

          • +1

            @deadpoet: I haven't seen any claims where tp link have claimed better guts
            But if you have a look at some internals
            https://youtu.be/8wCuZxJ6K6Q?t=191
            https://youtu.be/zl7hBeMnZko?t=150
            vs
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUC7CJvHgPI

            Regional differences have slightly different components but looks mostly the same. You can google the specs sheets on the relays but generally the ones that look like that are fine with 10a resistive but less than half that with inductive or capacitive loads. Much harder to tell if the caps or filter design has been beefed up but based on reports of failure. I don't think so.

            • @Twilight: Thanks for the links. There's a commenter below who said TP-Link told him the P110M has new internals which don't have the problem:
              https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/16116548/redir

              But judging from what people have said after doing a teardown, this is a lie, the internals seem to be the same apart from the addition of Matter support.

  • +5

    Has anyone had much luck with these over the Kasa KP115 models? I had about 10 of those and over the last 3 years all but 2 have died with the click of death issue.

    • I've got 5 of the TP-Link ones going fine, but only had them on about 4 months. They're also not hooked up to particularly large loads, which appears to be a big part of the problem for these things.

      • +2

        I had the opposite problem, constant loads are what killed mine. The ones I had on my fridge and computers all gave up the ghost, but the remaining ones on my dishwasher and washing machine are the only ones still going.

        • Curious to know, what do you use the ones that are on constant loads for? Just energy monitoring?

          • @edumacation: Yeah, I bought a couple 5 packs so used the spares to watch things like the fridge and chuck the data into home assistant. Most of them were just to satisfy my curiosity about power loads over time, but I did use a few in routines to turn on lights or turn off other standby devices based on the power draw.

        • Are you just using them to monitor power usage?

        • Ive had similar experiences to you, my fridge killed 2, each in less than a month. My bedside lamp one has been running for ~1.5 years which gets at least one cycle every day and relatively short run time.

        • +10

          A fridge is absolutely NOT a constant load. It has a sharp, high load spike in current every time the compressor kicks on, which is exactly the type of thing these little plugs hate.

          • @noisymime: Fair enough, mine does spike briefly to anywhere between 250w and 900w every 30 minutes. I used the wrong terminology and should've clarified better, I meant devices I turn on and off frequently.

          • @noisymime: is there anything - like a plugin "adapter" that could smooth these spikes?

            • +2

              @ripprind: You could put some sort of battery or large capacitor on there I guess, but a better (And cheaper) solution would be to use a better quality monitor/switch. Something like the Shelly wifi relay is a MUCH more robust option, but more expensive upfront to put in. It's a real shame Shelly don't do a version of their smart plug for the AU market as they're so much better than these cheap ones that die.

              • @noisymime: I dont think I'd feel comfortable putting a capacitor in there somewhere myself.
                But would love a safe off the shelf solution, because I've noticed the lights dimming ever so slightly when the fridge cycles. That can't be good for the rest of the appliances at home.

                initial googling seems to only give expensive solutions ☹️

          • @noisymime:

            a sharp, high load spike in current every time the compressor kicks on

            Ah, the days when you'd spend ages manually typing in code into your Microbee, only to lose it all when the computer reset because you forgot to unplug the fridge!

            • @Thrift: The sound on my shed TV reliably drops for a second or 2 when I turn the bench grinder on 😄

    • +1

      When you say they died - do they still operate? Or the smart switch stops working?
      Reason I ask is - if it happens to your fridge and you don't notice, is that fridge food gone

      • No, they died. Luckily they make a pretty audible noise as they turn on/off several times when they're toast and I was around to hear it. Like I said it was just to see how much power it was actually drawing over a period as I was curious, so I didn't replace the fridge one.

      • +3

        I have mine connected to a bunch of different appliances - because I am worried about this exact thing I am now using Home Assistant to check every 4 hours the power usage and if it’s below a certain threshold I have it set to send an alert to say the plug is playing up and to investigate. I shouldn’t have to do this, because the product should just work, but I don’t trust them anymore after too many failures.

        But all the ones that have failed have made loud audible clicking noises, so in theory would also hear that noise and know something is wrong.

    • +1

      I consistently hear about how often these WiFi switches (in general, not these specific ones) die, usually at the 12-18 month mark. I don't know what it is about them that makes it happen, but I feel like with how many I hear fail, it might be an issue with smart WiFi switches

    • +7

      Has anyone had much luck with these over the Kasa KP115 models?

      they look identical, i think they just changed the name :)

      i scored a heap of P110 and KP115 that were thrown out in a kerbside throw out. everyone clicks continuously when plugged in. when i cracked them open, all failed in exactly the same way - a bulging capacitor (bottom right in photo). when i replace the capacitor it works normally again. it can't be good for whatever appliance is connected when the plug fails and starts continuously switching on and off

      https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/37385/118746/tapo-1.jp…
      https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/37385/118747/tapo-2.jp…

      it must be a design flaw. maybe the capacitor gets too hot or they are just cheaping out on the capacitors. i don't know how old the ones i received were. some are KP115 and some are P110, but they appear identical internally

      i wouldn't expect too much longevity from tp-link smart plugs. make sure you keep your receipt :)

      • +2

        They just use the cheap capacitors to save cost. Remember on the early PC motherboard, they specified the Japanese made capacitors were used.

    • Ive had a Kasa KP115 for about 4 years. Hasn't skipped a beat and still works well.

      My only gripe is that there's no easy way to reset the energy monitoring stats via the KASA app. Your options are to do a factory reset or to use some python scripts to access the device:
      https://blog.lincomatic.com/how-to-reset-energy-statistics-o…

      It may be possible to connect the TP-link TAPO app to the Kasa KP115 and clear the stats that way but I haven't tried it yet. My solution was to get TP-link smart sockets which I've used when I needed to reset the stats to test for power consumption.

    • +1

      Same here. I have had maybe about 6 of these that went kaput in the same manner. I googled this previously - apparently an issue with the capacitor on board.

  • +2

    This is the every day price at Bunnings?

  • +14

    I have had 8 of these (100 and 110) - three have failed and turn off and on constantly and click. Tplink support was terrible to deal with. I suggest do not buy them for anything important.

    I also have 4 of the P110M matter versions - those have been rock-solid and no problems (yet).

    • +2

      I have two HS100, so far no problem.

      • +1

        I agree with you the super old HS outlived the KP that I had.

        As the P version is a rebrand of KP, I don't buy these anymore no matter how cheap.

    • What is in the m version to make it rock solid?

      • +1

        Perhaps the m version is a bit newer and hasn't reach the critical dying time frame yet, 18 - 28 months.

        Wouldn't know unless someone willing to crack one open and inspect.

      • +1

        It’s all internet rumours, but I saw a post at one point saying that apparently the 110M has different internals, so that might be why.

    • +2

      Same problem here for the one p110 bought. Thankfully when it failed completely (after about 3 months) it was sitting next to my computer and I could hear it clicking. I was previously using it to monitor power usage on a freezer in the spare room, very glad it didn't fail then.

      For about a week or two before total failure, the 3d printer connected to the plug was having stability issues and restarting mid print occasionally. I'm thinking the plug was failing and cutting power occasionally

      TP link support was pretty substandard, if I hadn't bought through Amazon I'd imagine the refund/replacement process would have been more difficult.

      I wouldn't recommend the p110 for anything important or long-term. The energy monitoring or automation through the phone app was decent, with CSV export available

    • I have got two 110s and those two work as expected. May be check other variables other than the smart socket hardware?

    • Make sure to leave auto update off. I have 4, 3 of them had auto update on and all bricked themselves overnight, the one that survived had it off.

      I did manage to RMA them for new replacements.

    • +1
    • Anyone in Melbourne with a few failed units who'd want to pass them on to someone to repair?

  • I'm trying to replace the HPM analogue timer for pool pump (1200W). Got the LASER plug two weeks ago and it died (completely) after 2 days in cool weather.

    Then I bought a P110 last week, but comments above look worrying. Especially constant on/off might destroy the pump? Would changing "Default State" to off at least make it die peacefully?

    What robust alternatives do we have? Anyone has experience with Mercator IKUU products?

    • +1

      It's a violent death, very quick switching on and off repeatedly. It cause one of my appliance to quickly turn on off repeatedly, likely going to break if i wasn't around to discover what was that damn clicking sound.

      Don't use this for expensive appliance.

      • Thanks. I placed the HPM timer back and lodged a return for the unopened P110s (bought 3 of them)

    • +5

      Would changing "Default State" to off at least make it die peacefully?

      after a quick look over the PCB, there are two output relays - one for active and one for neutral. the blue capacitor is supposed to smooth the voltage that drives the coils on the both output relays. but because it has bulged, it is unable to to maintain the required voltage to keep the relays turned on (5VDC in this case). during each AC power cycle, the relays turn off as the coil voltage dips and turn on again when the coil voltage rises back up to the required value

      the other electrolytic capacitors on the PCB look OK, so i'm guessing the microcontroller stays powered on continuously. the microcontroller tries to switch the output relays on, but they won't stay on because the coil voltage sags signficantly below 5VDC during each AC power cycle.

      the "default state" is only of use in the event of a real power failure (microcontroller loses power).

      capacitors usually bulge over a period of time, so it is likely that the switching performance gradually deteriorates. if switching becomes troublesome, then that should probably be a hint to replace it.

      the capacitor could fail because it gets too hot or it is a dodgy brand or the snubber network across the coil is insufficient and back-EMF across the coil slowly kills the capacitor each time the relay switches on or off

      • I've been running a P100 for my coffee machine for around 18 months. Pretty nervous about a failure now!
        I don't particularly need the power monitor for this device, I'm assuming the old school mechanical timers are fairly reliable and impossible for them to have this problem?

  • +2

    Had 3 for over a year from previous bargains. Have been rock solid.

    • +1

      be helpful to state what kind of appliance/current draw you're using them for

    • They'll only fail as soon as they get outside of the 24 month warranty period, so you've still got time..

  • +2

    I'd like to thank everyone for posting about the high failure rate. I thought mine was one of only a few to fail but after reading about your experiences I'm quite sure I'm not alone.

    Mine has also failed after less than 2 years. It worked well informing me of the energy usage but the relay function no longer works. It says it's off in the app but no it's not it's still on.

  • +2
  • +4

    For what it's worth, I was worried about the failure reports before so contacted TP-Link. They stated that the P110M has different hardware to the P110 and KS series so should not have the same issues as described. Anyone had failures of the P110M?

    I've been running a P110M for about 3 months on my EV charger. So that's about 1900W for 6hrs a day. Been working great so far.

    • this is purely speculative, but i am guessing the P110M is based on the same hardware as P110, but with a different microcontroller module (bottom left) on it to make it Matter compatible. maybe they have fixed their quality issues, who knows

  • -3

    This is likely why all the TP-Link devices are heavily discounted recently. Something to consider.

    US media reports the Biden administration is investigating whether to ban the sale of TP-Link routers made in China over cybersecurity concerns.
    https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-12-19/us-mulls-banning-tp-l…

    • Nah, these are normal discounts for TP-Link, they come like clockwork every few months.

  • +3

    I also had 4 KP115's that have all died after a little over 12 months of use on dishwashers/washing machines/pool pump with the same clicking on and off symptoms. Given their price point is a premium over other similar ones, I 100% wouldn't recommend at any price since its wide spread reported issue without any acknowledgement of the issue being resolved.

  • Does it support Zigbee protocol?

    • Nope, these are 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi only, like the vast majority of their smart devices. I’ve never seen any Zigbee devices from TP-Link, though I could be mistaken.

    • Go to ikea for zigbee

  • I bought a couple of these last time but never used them because everyone was talking about them being a fire risk. Still sitting unopened in their boxes.

  • +2

    Lol just had a P100 die 2 days ago. Wouldn't get this brand again for plugs

  • Hi guys, does anyone have a solution for monitoring whether their garage fridge/freezer is still drawing power? I have heaps of meat in my freezer so it would really suck if the freezer died and the meat thawed. But I only check it every few days/week when I relocate the cuts I’m using for that week to the kitchen fridge. Definitely don’t want to use this TP-Link thing after reading the above comments about it randomly turning off.

    • I use a Sense energy monitor which shows the usage by the freezer and has an alerting function.

      Alerts can be set for if it's on for an extended period of time "ON for 40 minutes" (someone's left it open) or if it hasn't started for a period of time "OFF for 2hrs" (someone has turned it off, unplugged it or it's broken).

    • I have a couple of them and they dont do anything random at all. All are disconnected from the internet and set to keep their previous status after power cut. All connected to HA.

    • +1

      I have heaps of meat in my freezer so it would really suck if the freezer died and the meat thawed

      isn't that what a fridge alarm is for? you set a maximum temperature and it beeps if it goes above that

  • I've had KP115s and P110s for years and had 2x KP115 with the clicking problem. Both were on a N40L microserver. Replaced with a P110 and had no issues since.

    I have them on fridge, washing machine, lamps, servers, media room powerboard with TV, AV receiver, WIFI access point, switch, Telstra TV and Voda TV. Another on powerboard with all our phone and tablet chargers plug packs. Another on powerboard with 2x desktop PC, laptop, printer, 2x monitors. Work from home so PCs go on and off every day and go between high power and sleep numerous times.

    All feed into home assistant. When the fridge compressor died when we were on holidays, HA alerted me and we got the neighbour to rescue the food from fridge and freezer.

    I rarely assess quality of a product based on failure reports on a forum, as it is common for bad news to be reported more than good news.

    Our mains voltage and frequency is very stable compared to the previous residence where the KP115s failed within 9 months. Whether that matters or not i don't know.

    I'm happy to keep using them.

  • I price matched at Jb 3-4 days ago. 4 for $39.

  • -1

    Neg for me. When connected to my 2kw panel heater, it melted down and melted my powerboard along with it. Thank god nothing came of it, but could've been a really bad story.

    • +1

      Not that it justifies its shortage, you pushed it towards its limits. I wouldn't trust a cheap smart plug for such load at all specially if it's a constant high load.

    • +1

      Most panel heaters specifically say to use them directly at the wall and never to use them with powerboards or adapters of any kind.

      You’re also not meant to use powerboards with other adapters either, so the fact you’ve plugged all three into one wall point, it’s a surprise nothing worse actually happened…

    • ah okay fair enough. thanks for the info - dumb by me.

  • +1

    Bunnings have the two pack of TP110's for $32 if you need a couple

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/tp-link-tapo-mini-wi-fi-smart-pl…

  • I run a dehumidifier/air conditioner off these.

    They're awesome.

    Set up a schedule start/stop time to keep a room at low humidity.

    If i was super smart I'd have it connected to a humidity monitor sensor but I'm not that smart.

  • I have 13 of these (mix of P100 and P110 hooked up across my home and they have been solid for the better part of last 2+ years. I don't use heavy loads on it like heaters.

    • So, what counts as a heavy load to you? Something like all six outlets on a power strip being used with the smart plug?

      • I guess things that all combined go close to 10amps. I have one P110 which has a TV, Soundbar, Subwoofer, FireTV and TV Backlight all plugged into one.

    • The heavy load thing is a red herring, I’ve had plugs die with low consistent loads, e.g. my most recent plug to die was running 16W for my TP-Link AX5400 modem router. It’s pretty consistent power draw, no big spikes or anything.

  • I bought a bunch of these midyear and another last week. Currently $10.50

    https://www.bigw.com.au/product/eko-wifi-power-plug-with-ene…

    Can be used these with localTuya on Home Assistant if specific polling intervals are wanted for power measurement.

  • If not Tapo, can anyone suggest a reliable brand and model?

  • I have repaired 2 of these KP115. I had them on a fridge and a microwave when they died. I wont put them back there though.

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