Bargain for a complete (almost - missing bottom bracket) groupset.
Derailleur Type Direct Mount
Crank: 170mm
Cassette Size 11-30t
Teeth 50.34t
Disc brake version is also a bargain at $720.00 considering the Di version is more than 2K:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-105-r7020-…
Haha totally agree 😂👍
+1 for rimming
I guess you've got BB sorted too?
Save the rim brake!
Sponsored by Chris Froome
great deal if you have rim brakes …..hydraulic discs deal would have been nice, would love to ditch my cable pull discs on the beater bike have hydraulic 105 on carbon road bike ..sweet as …….
The hydraulic disc groupset is $720 as mentioned in the post but they supply it with TRP rotors and tektro cables according to the spec.
FYI: 105 R7000 Rear Derailleur Short Cage….you may go 11-32T with the B screw but probably not to 34T or 36T later.
With 50/34 chain-rings, 32 should be plenty on the rear anyway.
Not if you're fat and unfit like me!
the medium cage 105 RD even unofficially works with 40T , as per https://road.cc/content/feature/how-get-ultra-low-gearing-gr…
1x Shimano BB-RS500 Threaded (English Thread) Bottom Bracket
it says there's a BB included
It's in the picture as well
Is that you Durianrider ?
Thats a mighty fine price for an excellent groupset
Good deal. 105 is excellent.
just got the 105 groupset two weeks ago from Merlin Cycle for $690…
I just bought an R7000 groupset for $700 😢, different cassette and crank ring but still this hurts
datz a gewd price
Wish everything still used a threaded bb
im assuming youre talking about adding this groupset to that bike? If so, then definitely no. Groupset is made for a road bike with drop handlebars, also completly different brakes as well.
Ah yes, good point about the handlebars.
There does appear to be a hole to mount the calliper brakes though.
the brakes are made for road rims. No clearance for the wider wheels. Even if there was clearance it would make no sense adding this groupo to that bike.
that bike is trash tbh
Not that it's compatible, but it would be an absolute waste of money on a cheapo bike like that
Noob lol
Will get my BB from a hambini, the 5 year old engineer.
the threaded bb's from shimano are great and don't creak.
It's the Press fit trash that everyone adopted which should be outlawed.
But agree Hambini's BB's are great. Nothing like an engineer with the mental maturity of a 12 year old telling top bike engineers where to shove it.
Was originally going to write everyone's favourite 5 year old, but I wasn't sure how it would be taken in a community that's not cycling focused. So put in hambini to be safe. :-)
I know nothing about bikes.
Would this be an appropriate 'upgrade' on a stock CELL Akuna 1.1 (from ~2014)?
Or would it be worth upgrading to a higher end bike with this kinda groupset included?
Looking at Google that bike came with the previous generation of Shimano 105, so it would be a slight upgrade, but not by much unless you've ridden it heaps and the components are trashed and need replacing. If things aren't working well it might just need a service.
out of curiosity, I have a 2016 giant defy disc bike with about 5k km on it. When you say 'ridden heaps', is there a rough idea about when to consider replacing groupsets?
After 5k km at most only the rear cassette should need replacing. The rest shoukd be fine for a long time.
@prhino: Chain should be replaced before. If you changed chains every 5k km, your cassette could last 2-3 times that, assuming you keep it properly lubed.
Chains, cassettes, chainrings, cables, brake pads, jockey wheels usually need to be replaced at differing times so can't really give an estimate to replacing a whole groupset. If you are only doing 5k km in 7 years, you might not even need to do change anything before you'll want a new bike.
Check if the chain has stretched/worn and if so, change the chain and you'll get more life out of your cassette. Otherwise, just keep using it and you may need to change both cassette and chain a little sooner.
@8azinga: Thanks for the replies everyone.
I got it second hand a couple of years back and have done 5k on it myself, the last owner said they didn't use it much, who knows.
All I know is that there are a couple of gears that are always sticky/take forever to engage but the bike shop I get it serviced at never says anything about it.
I've done the chain once since having it, about 2.5k kms ago.
@DeToxin: You just might need to go to a better bike shop to find the cause. Just make sure to tell them the issue when you take it in.
If you want to keep your frame and wheel, its not a bad price to update it but i personally wouldn't consider it much of an upgrade. You'd get 11sp over your current 10sp and likely wider gearing as your current cassette might not be a 30t. This may give you easier gearing as well due to 50/34 chainrings so check what you already have to compare. If you don't want easier gears, then this wouldn't be a good upgrade.
Looks like you will also need a front derailuer clamp as well as this comes with a braze on FD but your bike might need a clamp on FD. If you want to update your bottom bracket, you'd have to buy one that fits your bike as it appears your bike has a press fit BB.
generally its not worth it to upgrade a groupset on an existing bike, because you will be over-capitalizing, recoup very little for the old groupset and end up with a new groupset on a battered old frame which, as a whole bike, would still have a market value less than what you paid for the groupset. The main use case for retail groupsets is for people who are building from scratch with their own choice of frame and wheels.
Surely most people aren't thinking of the resale value of their bike though…?
I <3 my Cinelli alloy frame and 10x Campagnolo Record rear derailleur (3 replacements so far) are hard to come by these days. So this upgrade was a no brainier lol
@mikaelkn: Nice, still running 10sp Campag record, so good still. Wouldn't run it on a daily commuter etc but still requires minimal maintenance.
@mikaelkn: If you have a classic frame that you absolutely love, then yes I agree its worthwhile! A few of the comments here refer to upgrading an entry level bike with groupsets like Claris etc, that's where I don't see the benefit outweighs the costs. If the owner doesn't have some level of experience with working on the bike, then there is the added cost of a tools (at the very least, BB removal tool, chain whip, cable cutters, chain breaker), a risk of excess material consumption (cut the chain or cable housings too short, say), gremlins after the install requiring taking it to a mechanics etc. All these add up.
What's the cheapest bike I can put this on? I want to turn my 20 minute commute to 15? :D
Literally any bike.
I got the previous gen (10x) 105 groupset to work on an old $35 Peugeot late 80s frame (bought from ebay and picked up from Frankston station!). Had to drill abit to fit the brake calipers.
This has been my commuting rig for the last 10 years!
What frame would go well with this group set?
Interested as a beginner, so probably don't want a carbon frame.
goes well with any frame. If you're a beginner I would just buy an entry level bike with shimano 105s to save you all the hassle of building it
Agreed. Or a second hand mid range bike that's had light use.
Thanks guys
find a frame geometry you like e.g brand and model and buy lowers version with that frame …..most bikes it’s the same dram across 5 models and all they do is group set upgrades between the models ….
I picked up my bike from FB marketplace which was hardly used and came with this groupset, was around $650
Yes 2nd hand is generally cheaper than brand new
This frame is good:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/brand-x-rd-01-road…
You'll be lucky to find anything else that is decent for anywhere near the price ($249)
Add a wheelset, and you are nearly there :-) A complete bike for under $1500.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/prime-stagiaire-al…
There is a chance the 105 brake calipers won't work with that frame or will have limited adjustment. Specs say long reach calipers but comments suggest it is only the rear that requires it.
I had to modify my rear calipers ever so slightly to reach. Filed the slots to be a bit longer.
Shimano says these have 51mm reach. OK?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano105-…
@bargaino: There is a review that said their 4700 caliper didn't fit which is also 51mm reach but someone did say their ultegra did work. That is why i said there is a chance it might not work.
What caliper did you have to file out?
I'm reading those comments and I wonder if that's how my friends feel when I get talking about my niche area of expertise :laugh:
This whole thing costs almost as much as my entire bike
Slap this onto my 4k frame!
Why not turn it into a critpig
Just bought the Rim brake version. In case one day Di2 is not working so can install the mechanic groupset! Thanks OP!
Interesting I thought Shimano will be shipped locally as Shimano usually has local agreements with Resellers? Mine parcel seems to be shipping from UK to Singapore and to Australia
It says on the site if they ship locally. I wonder if this particular groupset might be put together with stock that might not have been supplied by authorised distributor channels. It doesnt come non shimano cabkes and a KMC chain instead. Merlin get away with sending shimano products to AU because they dont get stock through shimano dustributors.
I guess as long as they don't source through those so called "genuine Shimano" parts from Aliexpress, that should be ok🤣🤣
But they do stated on their listing Shimano parts carries 2 years warranty with Dura Ace 3yrs.
Shit thats a bargain
I've got a really basic road bike with Claris r200. Anything I should consider before upgrading parts? Only thinking I need a new rear wheel?
Claris is 8 speed, you may want to check if you can just change the rear wheel free hub to a 11 speed compatible
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/freehubs/
thank you!
Any good deals for Dura Ace?
Good luck. Prices of Ultegra and Dura Ace have been utterly outrageous for a while now. Merlin in the UK is usually my go to for groupsets.
I gave the 105th upvote!
Wish I knew more about building bikes. I've been wanting to learn, but it all seems so complicated. Only learnt how to wrap bar tape a few months ago (out of necessity).
Look out on Gumtree or FB for cheap (sometimes free) bikes or parts. Practice on these bits, you can learn without much expense.
youtube is your friend, great online tutorials from Park Tool and others. I pretty much taught myself most stuff. Only really need to go to the bike shop now for major stuff where i don't want to buy expensive specialist tools like crank pullers, wheel truing stands, bearing presses etc.
And the collection of works by the late Sheldon Brown. He passed in 2008 so some of the pages are getting out of date, but as a collective works it's gold standard.
I can’t find any option for alternate crank length?
Seems to be "One size fits all" (I personally use a 175 mm crank and for others reading, yes 5mm does make a real difference )
"Select Length 170mm"
172.5mm is more standard for crank length, for people of average height. guess you could change it later.
50/34 and 11-30 is a great range, will be able to go most places (I got 11-32 on my Defy :))
Looks like a great deal otherwise, go the rim brakes, cheaper, lighter and hassle free.
The latest trend now seems to be going back to shorter cranks like the past. 170mm was pretty standard about 20 years ago.
@8azinga: Guess the only way to know is a bit fit. For someone tall I wouldn't be getting 170. The cranks are pretty proportional to the frame size by default but have noticed GCN discussing it lately.
@G-rig: 170mm is fine for average height though which was what you referred to above. As for someone tall, wiggins at 1.9m went from 177.5mm to 170mm and then to 165mm, although not sure if that was only for track or if he went shorter on road as well so 170mm can work for taller riders. One article i read mentioned that tests showed no power loss going to shorter cranks and 170mm was the sweet spot for majority if people, regardless of inseam length, unless you had issues increasing your cadence a few rpm.
@8azinga: Hey mate fair enough, was just thinking about inseam length and saddle height - it would be hard to know to be honest without a bike fit and logging power and rpm as it's a very minor adjustment as long as it's comfortable.
Seems to be a current trend going for shorter cranks but to be honest I've never had an issue with 172.5mm in 20y and am about 5'8". There are other areas to gain a few watts before swapping cranks unless it feels wrong. So guess you'd try the bundle out first.
@G-rig: bike fit and hip joint structure is more relevant. I am 185cm and need 170mm cranks to be comfortable, seated and in the drops.
Disk brakes are just so much safer in wet weather etc I would never go back to Rim brakes.
I have one of each, good if you are in some rain or off-road.. no point in the dry like most days - added weight and the handling feels sluggish and dull compared to rim.
Disc for dirt rim for road as daddy says :P.
i thought shimano had geo-blocked sales of their stuff. this is good news
any bargain rim brake clincher wheelsets to match out there?
With the rear derailleur being 'direct mount' - does anyone know if it can still be installed on a hanger, or does it have to be a direct mount compatible frame?
Great deal OP!
google says there is a b link adapter to do this. i suspect it comes with it, but otherwise you can buy one for reasonably cheap
manual suggests the part is there. you just remove it as required to direct mount
I think it's referring to the front derailleur being "braze on" rather than clamp on. Very easy to solve if your frame doesn't have a braze. You can just get a clamp on braze
it is not, but you are correct in regards to braze on vs clamp for the front derailleur
I'm looking at the disc version at 720, but having trouble at finding reasonable priced disc mounted carbon road bike frames, any tips?
This all depends on what your definition is of reasonably priced. If you're not too fussed around brand, Ribble from the UK or Winspace from China. Expecting that frames from brands like Giant or Trek will have a brand premium and only likely to have discounts on previous year models.
Agree, if i was building a lightweight chinese carbon (cough) rim bike I'd head straight to Winspace - even that isn't as cheap as it was but is pretty top notch without the excesive markup. A lot of them come from the same factory in Taiwan etc as the big brands.
Still cheaper to buy used, depends what you want and budget of course.
would this go well on my old giant defy 3 XL?
Got a used Sram Red 22 set for $250 years ago, super lightweight, performs well(and no charging required :)). A lot of bargains for the rim mechanical groupset when you consider used parts. Just buy new chain/cassette/chainring/brake pads if they are not in good condition.
The tricky part is to find a new frame bargain that you like. (don't buy used carbon frame unless you have an x-ray)
Thanks! just ordered.
Save the rim brake!