This was posted 2 years 8 months 9 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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700C Commuter Bike (7-speed) $129 Pickup @ Kmart

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Hi, I wish to share this clearance price for a bike that exceeded expectations.

I was looking for a cheap alloy frame with steel forks to build an eBike. (steel forks survive the torque of a hub motor)
Found this at only $129, very much a BSO price.
But only 12kg (a bit under on my scales), and rode well. The problem with most K-mart bikes is poor assembly and adjustment, more than the components, so get a bike shop to do it, or ask a friend if you lack the skills.

Drivetrain is Shimano, and even their entry-level performs well. Ok, the freewheel is a copy, but the hyperglide patent has long lapsed.
Front wheel gave a nasty click every circuit on braking - a common problem with cheap bikes due to the rims being pinned, rather than welded. But easily fixed by switching left to right.

This would make a fine bike for anyone wanting to commute a modest distance. Faster / less effort than a mountain bike, hybrid or "comfort bike", and not a thief magnet. Even so, use a D-lock.

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    • Could be either. Probably more for creating conflict in the comments.

  • -1

    The circle of Ozbargain life:
    1. Spend over $20 000 on a Toyota Camry, mostly for commuting 20kms
    2. Buy a 'bicycle like object' for $129
    3. Ride it for 1km before realising its complete garbage and throw it away.
    4. Continue to think cycling is a fringe hobby and continue to drive Camry everywhere.
    5. Think you've found a bargain when someone posts cheap 7-11 petrol post

    • ? cycling IS a fringe hobby.

      • Why would a $129 bike be complete garbage? You wouldn't be an ozbargainer if you just throw it away. Sounds more like an entitled twat from Toorak or Kew.

        Someone who buys a $129 bike isn't looking to replace their Camry with that bike. If it can go from point A to point B, that's pretty much good enough. The assertion here and the train of thought is really puzzling, but maybe that's why most motorists can't get along with entitled cyclists in expensive gear.

        • +1

          If your budget is $129, go to CERES and get a good quality used bike.
          https://thebikeshed.org.au/ As has been pointed out repeatedly on this thread, the components are very low quality so you'll end up paying a lot more in the end.

          If you compare Copenhagen and Los Angeles, you'll maybe begin to understand why car-centric planning is a miserable dead-end of upward spiralling health costs, long commutes, ugly cities and false-promises of convenience.

  • "The problem with most K-mart bikes is poor assembly and adjustment, more than the components, so get a bike shop to do it, or ask a friend if you lack the skills."

    That's very interesting.

    What's a ballpark figure of how much I should expect something like this to cost if I took a bike to a local shop (to be adjusted appropr?

    (I'm probably not going to buy a K-Mart bike — though I'll give it a lot more thought after reading this post! — but I am considering buying something cheapish and second-hand, and figure it's probably worth taking it into a shop for a lookover if I do. But I have absolutely no idea what to expect.)

    • +3

      Checked out https://thebikeshed.org.au/?
      Secondhand, but repaired bikes by volunteers. Possibly better than buying from Facebook/gumtree from someone who has no idea about bikes? (I grabbed one from a similar place…turns out I never got into biking except to local shops)

      As for prices, depends where you go https://www.99bikes.com.au/workshop

      • +2

        wow bike shed is very cool

        • +1

          Located in Vic as well 💪

          Seems like there's one in Newtown in Sydney, but not sure if they sell bikes from what I can see on their FB.

          • +2

            @Ghost47: In NSW, Sydney Park Cyclery (I looked up the one in Newtown you mentioned, and this also came up as a recommendation) in St Peter's is an option
            or Recycling Shed - by Western Sydney Cycling Network - a club/not for profit, this is the one I went to. They take in abandoned and donated bikes - so there will be a lot of department store bikes, but there's still proper bike brands eg Giant. Everything is repaired by volunteers before sold to public, and they'll adjust seat height/etc to help you find the right bike. Ok, it's only open a few days per month, so the one in St Peter's is probably more accessible. Also, if anyone wants bikes for their kids, there's lots of children's bikes here too (whether its training wheels, or something for a teenager).
            If you (like me) don't know anything about bikes - just make sure it's not uncomfortable.

      • +1

        Haha I was just about to write that I don't know The Bike Shed but I'm familiar with CERES…until I realised they're one and the same.

        It's a fantastic initiative, though I've largely stayed away because ~social anxiety is really fun~!

        I actually didn't know they also sold bikes though (thought it was just parts), so I will try to check it out.

        I appreciate the advice and the link. :)

  • +4

    What are the wheels like on this bike?

    Last time I visited Kmart every bike had wheels that needed truing badly.

    I'd be very hesitant to turn one of these bikes into an eBike.

    The wheels typically won't deal well with the extra weight, torque and speed.

    Especially with no shock on the front wheel.

    Pretty much any cheap frame is fine, and gears are all amazing these days but the wheels let you down.

    Wheels are complete rubbish on a lot of cheap bikes.

    Your biggest concerns are rubbish wheels, where spokes fail or the wheel buckles when you decide to jump a gutter or something similar.

    The bike is less commuting and probably more suited to trips to the local bakery or local park with kids.

    I wouldn't want to ride it any further than I'm willing to walk home.

    • The wheels are single wall. So beware pot holes. I replaced the front wheel with motor. So far, the rear is true, and spokes in tension.
      If I crash, I'll check them. I have plenty of spare parts.

  • Thanks. Bought one to replace my aldi one. I'll pay extra $10 to let the store assemble it.

    • What are your thoughts on the Aldi bike? Did you build it?

      • +1

        Yes, I assembled it by my self. I ride it average once a week about 1 hour for exercises. Sometimes more, sometimes less. Now the outside tye neally flat and I can't find that size inside tube in store to buy. Haven't ride for a while and I put it in the shade outside, but still the break rubber began to give away.

    • There's a lot more to setting up your bike than simply attaching the parts, which is all that Kmart will do. I wouldn't plan on riding it home when you pick it up.

      • I thought they at least could adjust the break well, ready to ride home. I can assemble, but have difficulty before for break. This break is a disk, new to me, maybe not that hard to adjust.
        I'll ask the store what will they do for assembly work.

        • The Kmart bike that's the subject of this post does not have disc brakes. It appears to have side pull brakes. Which bike did you buy?

          • @bean_counter: Maybe it was a 10 year old bike built this year with some new components

          • @bean_counter: Sorry, only saw the 700cc. Didn't read the detail. I was thinking the other one whit a reversed hand bar which was reduced to $159.

      • +1

        It's always easier to anonymously neg someone's comment than to back it up with a meaningful comment. Clearly the neg comes from someone who has no idea about setting up a part assembled bike. For $10 I would wonder whether:
        - the front and rear brakes would be adjusted and tested to ensure correct operation; and
        - the derailleur operation checked to ensure is clear of chain, when not being operated, shifts chain to the correct cog when operated and doesn't move outside the desired range e.g. makes contact with spokes, which can result in significant damage to the derailleur and/or spokes.

        I'd also check that wheel nuts and handlebar stem are tightened and that tyres have been pumped up (at least enough to ensure you don't roll a tyre of the rim going around a corner at speed) - and to assist with a comfortable ride, the seat is adjusted to a comfortable height and tilt that best suits the new owner and ditto for handlebar height.

        I can't see Kmart's $10 fee covering all of the above - and I certainly wouldn't be assuming it will and that the bike is ready to ride when you pick it up.

  • If you missed out on the bike and need another option check FB Marketplace, heaps of great pre loved $100 bikes including some quality flat bars that have done very little work and been kept indoors.

  • +1

    There's two at Kmart Indooroopilly marked down to $60 each. Not for me personally as I'm happy with better bargains/bikes on FB marketplace…

  • I was excited about this until I discovered the 700cc was not the size of the engine on it and you still had to pedal 😜

  • Anyone brave enough to review? :-)

    Not round here.

  • +1

    Drivetrain is Shimano

    I don't think I've ever seen a (geared) bicycle without Shimano drain train. And while I don't have experience with "higher end" gear, I've owned several few-hundred $ bikes over the years and their product has always been awful, with no amount of adjustment able to get it to work properly. It makes me wonder why retailers cite a bike has Shimano because it's meaningless. In fact I came to consider it a negative, because I recall deliberately searching for a mountain bike a few years ago WITHOUT their gear because of my experiences, but couldn't find one lol.

    • Did you look for one with SRAM?

      • No, i'd not heard of them - thanks.

    • do you mind elaborating on which gearsets and shifters were used on you several hundred $ bikes?

      It sounds like you know how to make adjustments to your gear and i've personally used some pretty low end stuff in the Shimano range Claris/2000 series and Atlus series but it just keeps going and have done several thousand km on them, still haven't replaced the cassette, chain or chainrings. it definitely doesn't shift as nicely but that's also because i rarely clean it and it gets abused :D

      Not saying that you're making adjustments incorrectly but i've found the cheaper groupsets to be fairly easy to adjust due to how wide the gearing is

      • At this end, you will find Tourney only

      • I'm not sure. Just whatever comes on $300-$400 bikes.

        And I meant several, few-hundred dollar, bikes. Not several, several hundred dollar, bikes. ;-)

        The local bikeshop offered to also adjust the gears/derailleur for free once, when I paid him to true a front wheel… so I said, sure. On pickup he said he spent 40 minutes stuffing around but, "Sorry that's the best I can do." It was acting up again 20 minutes later. Chain slipping off for no apparent reason, none of the gears changed remotely close to the numbers on the grips, gears randomly slipping out of position causing them to change… That was a BigW bike.

  • +1

    Hey Op, could you please elaborate also what you consider to be the "drive train"

    From my understanding, the drive train includes
    The Chain Ring, Crankshaft, Chain, Front/Rear derailleurs, and Cassette. (Pedals as well but I don't think anyone expects a stock bike to feature Shimano pedals, unless you're JV)

    In your post you state that this bike features a Shimano drivetrain.
    Based upon the pictures I don't think that crank/chain ring "assembly" could possibly be Shimano and so feel it fair to point out that your description is deceptive.

    • what you consider to be the "drive train"

      That depends on the context. But in this case, I used the wrong word.
      Shifter and derailleur are Shimano 7-speed. Is there such a thing as a full Tourney group-set? :-)
      Cranks are alloy. But of course are connected by a heavy square-taper bottom bracket.

      I'm a bit shocked at how seriously so many people have taken this post!
      I bought the bike for parts - a cheap lightweight frame & forks. If the brakes and wheels last a thousand km, that is a bonus!

      My "other bike" has a mix of Ultegra and 105 components. Can anyone honestly tell the difference between 105 and Ultegra? Aside from looks, or the reading on jewellery scales.

      • Don't take my lack of a positive vote as detracting, i do like your opening spiel but the +ve vote is reserved for bargains :D (not bookmarking/saving posts etc)

        You clearly know your way around a bike and you did qualify the bargain as it being a run-around/spare parts bin, it certainly gives off the vibes that I being on the more heavier side, would err more on the side of caution with that 100kg rating. My main concern with a bike like this would only be the wheel quality as that is where you contact the road, where your brakes stop you and how it feels etc + how many popped tubes you get :D. The rest of the bike I wouldn't really care about to be honest but a semi decentish wheelset is going to set you back around $100 anyway even second hand so you've already doubled up your initial outlay.

        If you weigh closer to the 70-80 mark i'm sure this bike is perfectly fine if stored indoors and looked after. Unfortunately as its a cheap run around, it's likely to be treated in that same manner and will probably find parts binding sooner rather than later.

        I'd say it's likely that an ultegra cassette and chain would last a bit longer than 105 ones. Both are excellent though and would more than suffice for the weekend warriors :D

  • Bruh that seat looks it would hurt.

  • +3

    17077 clicks and 375+ upvotes later, I hope those bike snobs learn an important lesson.

  • +1

    I’ve got an old commuter that aim keen on converting into an eBike. Any recommendations on a conversion kit?

  • Honestly when i read most comments… i lmao…

    It looks like most ppl treat this as professional mountain bike or going to use for that purpose…

    Mate if you are like me living in a large community complex area and would do some cycling exercises within the complex instead just strolling… i think this bike would do the job just fine

  • I just need a bike to tag along with my kids to ride maybe 6-10 times a year. If I got this, how much would I pay someone to professionally assemble it for me? and is it worth it over paying up to $1k for one of those giant bike? I just need something that rides without falling apart and breaks. I don't even know what gears are and how to use them on a bike. Could do a budget for $300 but seriously it's just gonna be sitting in the shed 90% of the time.

  • Keen to hear about people's experience building their new bike. From what I remember getting a kids bike, Kmart inlcudes a very generic instruction manual that has blurry black and white photos (not CAD renders) and it's an absolute pain trying the adjust the brakes and stop the front wheel from rubbing.

    • The manual is useless.
      But YouTube makes it easy to learn.
      Just look for a similar caliper brake.
      Not hard once you know how.

      Rear brake was already adjusted.

  • Got one thanks!

    Can someone recommend an ebike conversion kit that would go well with this bike? Thanks

    • You are welcome. I've used old parts, so don't have specific advice.
      But as this is a low-end bike, don't go crazy on the power. 250 to 500W is OK.
      Front hub motor is easier and cheaper than rear.

      • Sorry to bother you with another question, but what do you think about the kogan fortis e-bike or the xiaomi e-bike? Any downsides?

        Seriously considering getting that to ride recreationally on bike paths.

        https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/fortis-700c-36v-10ah-hybrid-com…
        https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/xiaomi-mi-qicycle-electric-fold…

        • No problem. They look good on paper for the price. I have a Fortis pedal folding bike, and it does the job.

          But why are you getting an ebike for recreational riding? Unless you are very disabled, that makes no sense.
          You could get a better-quality pedal bike for less money.
          An eBike is for transport, e.g. commuting in a hilly environment.

          The bike is good as-is for recreational bike-path riding, assuming it fits, and you don't have many steep hills.

        • I just ordered and got the Fortis 700C ebike, assembly took 15 mins.

          First of all I have not been on a bike in many years lol, 2nd never had or tried ebike.

          It seems amazing value and works well out of the box.

          I wonder if anyone knows how I can wire up a throttle controller?

  • Yeah, fascinating read of the for and against arguments for the bike. My two stories:
    1. Bought a very cheap mountain bike from rebel on special. Bought online, but built in store and went and physically collected. It was too small and I never felt comfortable, so lesson #1 - go sit on the bike. It was a real bargain because rebel were just ditching their bike range, but still left me feeling stupid and promising I'd go get a better bike one day. Got stolen off verandah one night and I was kinda glad. Didn't even resent the thieves. Saved me the embarrassment of admitting what a poor purchase I'd made.
    2. Bought $109 Aldi bike for daughter. Assembled at home. Such a piece of junk. Everything rusted. Brake cables kept popping out of the lugs, which wa dangerous. Warranty stipulated that it had to be taken to a bike shop within x days I think. I ignored but bottom bracket (i think) started jumping, so rang up for warranty and they said take to shop. Shop was good but charged $150 or so, fixing jumping bracket. But still a shit bike. Daughter didn't like riding it and doesn't ride much now. Lesson #2: don't buy really cheap shit bike. Technically it may roll but crappy ride may spoil whole experience for you.
    People defending cheap * shit * bikes, is like defending a Mecca's cheese burger as real food. Sure we've all eaten one, maybe once, even twice, but we know it wasn't good for us.

    • You should have got one of the Polygon bikes from ALDI. Fantastic value.

      If you leave a cheap bike out on the verandah, don't act surprised when it rusts. A shed or garage would have helped.
      It sounds like you'll need a bit of support whatever bike you buy. Don't expect them to be zero-maintenance and ignore minor problems until they get bad.

  • Update: the eBike conversion has been mostly good.

    I mentioned the wheels (rims) and brakes as potential weak points.
    The brakes are not especially good due to crappy pads. After replacing pads I was adjusting the centering and tightening the nut - and the brake bolt sheared off !!

    No problem. The frame is worth more than $129 to me, and anything else is a bonus :-)

    I drilled out the hole at the back of the forks to 8mm, as used by modern caliper brakes, and installed a Tektro R559. Now I feel safer.

    BTW, I now realise that a bike with disc-brakes is a good idea for hub motor e-bike conversion, as the fork dropouts will be made to withstand a higher torque.
    Especially if you are using a high-power motor, rather than the street-legal one I'm doing.

    • Cancel that comment about disc-brakes. They don't apply torque to the dropouts. Any steel forks are good.

  • +2

    For those still undecided, this bike is now $99

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