This was posted 2 years 8 months 9 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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700C Commuter Bike (7-speed) $129 Pickup @ Kmart

4170

Hi, I wish to share this clearance price for a bike that exceeded expectations.

I was looking for a cheap alloy frame with steel forks to build an eBike. (steel forks survive the torque of a hub motor)
Found this at only $129, very much a BSO price.
But only 12kg (a bit under on my scales), and rode well. The problem with most K-mart bikes is poor assembly and adjustment, more than the components, so get a bike shop to do it, or ask a friend if you lack the skills.

Drivetrain is Shimano, and even their entry-level performs well. Ok, the freewheel is a copy, but the hyperglide patent has long lapsed.
Front wheel gave a nasty click every circuit on braking - a common problem with cheap bikes due to the rims being pinned, rather than welded. But easily fixed by switching left to right.

This would make a fine bike for anyone wanting to commute a modest distance. Faster / less effort than a mountain bike, hybrid or "comfort bike", and not a thief magnet. Even so, use a D-lock.

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  • +4

    lol at all the clueless people upvoting this bike shaped object

  • +7

    Ngl
    This bike is trash
    It's slightly nicer than the usual kmart bike trash, is it worth $129 though? Maybe

    May get 6 months to a year out of it commuting before needing to replace the wheels, groupset, brakes, frame, seat, bottom bracket. You'll spend $200 in the first year on new/replacement parts

    But that's a big maybe
    Buy a secondhand giant knowing it won't fall apart on you oh and you still get to brake in the wet

    • +3

      You'll spend $200 in the first year on new/replacement parts

      Then you will have the quality parts and still be saving money compared to a $500 bike.

      • +1

        Or you can buy a secondhand quality bike for $150 and know it'll last for years without changing anything ;)

        And the $200 in parts won't exactly be quality

        • +4

          True but good luck getting a used $500 bike for $150 that doesn’t need work.

          • -2

            @MuddyClear: I have
            I've bought multiple ones
            And resold them for more because people think bikes <$200 are junk

            But hey
            More for me

            • @Drakesy: Any tips?

              • @quill: Unfortunately now that covid is over not really
                It really comes down to experience in the industry and what has value.

                Before dual suspension bikes were all the rage
                Now supply chains have caught up and we're back to square one

        • I picked up a well looked after Gary Fischer about seven years ago for $300 second hand (RRP $1100 or so from circa 2010, brand is now a subsidiary of Trek). The thing has high quality parts all over, including rock shocks suspension. The problem I have now is I want a new bike for something different, but the thing is too good to throw away and rides so nice for my commutes! I'll probably be stuck with it for another 5-10 years the way things are going, it is a seriously good bike.

    • What do you think about the kogan fortis ebike?

      https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/fortis-700c-36v-10ah-hybrid-com…

  • +3

    Lol. You should rep for kmart

  • +9

    i am just here to upvote the deal and piss off all the bike expert..

    • +4

      What an interesting take.

      In a way, this is misinformation. Bike experts are giving advice, and you are misleading by admittedly cluelessly upvoting and possibly causing people to buy this product…

      You know what? How about you take it one step further and actually buy one? That'll show 'em!

      I honestly don't feel pissed off. Take the advice or leave it. It's your money we're trying to save… 🤷So I couldn't care less if you do end up buying the product - good on you for wanting to cycle rather than drive. 👍

    • Poster child comment for the internet

      Damn you fancy (profanity) with your knowledge and experience.

  • +2

    The problem with most K-mart bikes is poor assembly and adjustment, more than the components, so get a bike shop to do it

    Get the bike shop to do what? Take it apart and re-assemble and adjust? Surely not.

    Front wheel gave a nasty click every circuit on braking - a common problem with cheap bikes due to the rims being pinned, rather than welded. But easily fixed by switching left to right.

    Switching what from left to right?

    • +2

      Get the bike shop to do what? Take it apart and re-assemble and adjust? Surely not.

      It's not rocket science, but the average person does not know how to assemble a bike or adjust the brakes & gears.

      Switching what from left to right?

      The wheel. It it clicks on braking, try putting it in the other way. (there are only two options). Also, toe-in on the pads can fix it.

    • Simply take the front wheel out, flip it over, so that the right side of the rim is now on the left, and stick it back in. It may eliminate the brake stutter, or it may not. Tbh, most of these problems are due to the wheel needing truing.

    • +1

      Bike shop won't do it or the buyer won't be willing to pay as the cost of such a service would be another $100 when the bike costs you $129. Also, those mechanics are magicians so can't turn something badly made into a bike that would costs $600

      • … where do $600 come from ???

        • Just that a reputable bicycle brand usually carry a starting price at $500-$600 where you will get a serviceable bike and most likely can enjoy riding more than fixing. This kmart bike also looks very big to me. I ride a size small road bike and the top tube near the saddle is just above the rear tyre but this one looks like at least a L if not an XL . That's mean only people that are taller than 180+ to feel comfortable riding on it.

    • Get the bike shop to do what? Take it apart and re-assemble and adjust? Surely not.

      Thats not uncommon for pre-assembled bikes. Polygon is a reputable brand and their bikes come pre-assembled but its always recommended to fully inspect it, even take it apart and check everything. Mostly because they don't grease some sections properly and if they haven't then you are up for premature wear and tear.

      • Mostly because they don't grease some sections properly and if they haven't then you are up for premature wear and tear.

        Interesting. What parts require greasing?

        • basically all contact points where 2 metal parts screw or insert into each other.

          In particular the headset and bearings need looking at, bottom bracket, pedal screws, seat post and axels. Its not just for making things turn and move freely, things like the seat post and pedal screws should be greased as it keeps moisture out and prevents them from seizing into place.

          Also worth adding locktite to all fastening screws so they don't come undone after a few heavy rides.

  • Can I ask all what is the thoughts on this Anaconda deal and getting it setup in store please. https://www.anacondastores.com/cycling/bikes/fluid-momentum-…

    • +1

      At that price you may spend a bit more and get an entry level Polygon/Marin/Trek.

    • Fluid bikes are actually semi decent
      Not like this…. bike thing

      • Yes decent but it is $499 not $129 like the Kmart one. Considering ie. the Marlin 5 is $600 it makes more sense to pass Fluid

    • +2

      First, don't be fooled by the total BS RRP at Anaconda. It is a $499 bike.
      Second, not the same league as the cheap bike I posted. You get things like double-wall rims, freehub and hydraulic brakes.

      But it is heavier and would be slower on a commute. OTOH the K-mart bike would break if used aggressively off-road. You could get both :-)

      • It's more for like a 8 km return ride with crappy gold coast roads ( feels sometimes it better to go bush lol )

  • +1

    Not sure will ever ride a bike but description makes me wanna one.

  • +15

    I don't get all the comments about being a death trap and how bad it is blah blah when this looks miles better than the $79 bike I got from Big W years ago.

    Maybe the hardcore cyclists forget that some of us buy them just to get to the local milkbar and back, or the occasional ride around the estate for "health", and not a bazillion kilometres up a hill or through dirt. This looks like it will last a while and my cheap shit lasted 7 years before I had to replace a tyre.

    • +3

      100%

      I was riding an old repco hybrid and kawasaki mtb for 10-15 years. no punctures. Rides were short though to the local shops/parks/river trails. Yes it was heavy but does the job very well for what it is designed for - short comfortable rides.

      As you get more serious, you can upgrade to a better hybrid to commute longer distance/go exploring different trails. Before getting a roadie.

    • +2

      So many experts bagging a deal that for most people represents great value. Whoever purchases this bike would be well aware of its limitations. Most would use it to ride around the estate with kids. But to say it'll last two rides before breaking is absolutely garbage.
      Honestly some people need to pull their heads in.

      • +2

        To be fair, you get the same in laptop deals where you don't get more than 8GB of RAM in a laptop.

        However that isn't a fair comparison as this bike is probably akin to one with a 128GB eMMC and 4GB of RAM :D

        Although this site is ozbargain, most members actually prioritise value even if it's not explicitly spelt out. This means that whatever you're spending your dosh on, should be bang for buck, rather than absolute rock bottom pricing. You see the voting isn't as strong on products that are mediocre or perform far worse than other products for only a bit more price. Every single charger thread is full of recommendations for members to "spend 10% more" for a heaps better product.

        This bike will be built from the absolute nastiest components and cheapest alloys that as other members have rightfully pointed out, if you abuse in any way whatsoever that you'll probably end up replacing it exceptionally soon.

        The "suitable market" for someone like this, where the consumer is both informed and shopping in that price range is exceptionally small. There will be many unsavvy consumers that think this bike is perfectly fine to do jumps off curbsides, take out to mountain trails etc without knowing that its likely going to buckle a wheel or pop a tube as soon as you land on anything but baby smooth pavement.

        By posting vehemently about these problems, at least members are performing part of the market function of ensuring that anyone who is shopping in this price range is INFORMED about the limitations.

        Everyone has a different view of a "typical" consumer of a bike like this but the scenarios of it rotting away in a garage i have to agree will be close to the likely outcome.

        Consumers shopping in this price range are unlikely to be savvy, informed bike mechanics that are able to perform the work required to keep this thing running smoothly and safely. All the power to those that are both informed and happy with the limitations but as per the laptop example above, there are "typical usage" patterns that most people agree will capture majority of uninformed consumers such that they are likely to be happy with the performance and price they paid

        • +2

          Generally you don't ride your laptop and it can't kill you

          • @Drakesy: I'm not an expert on laptops, but I compare this to mobile phones. I've bought top of the range Note phones that cost well over a grand, and I've also had phones that cost less than $300 like the POCO X3 Pro. I don't expect a $300 phone like the POCO to produce amazing photos, or support pen use or be able to fold out etc, but it's decent for its price, and does what I expect it to do.

            I'm not going to use this phone to produce professional Youtube videos or hardcore gaming etc, and people buying this bike are in general going to use it to potter around urban surroundings, not take it to Mt Kalimantan or whatever. No one's going to use that as a daily commuter bike that you bike 20km to work and back. It's good enough to potter around in and won't fall apart on tarmac, and I don't get why people are comparing that to hardcore bikes and brand name parts. This is the little humble Yaris of bicycles, it's not a Nismo GTR track machine for time attacks.

          • +1

            @Drakesy: This bike isn't going to kill someone. You bike wannnkers are being so overdramatic here.

            • @Buyingcrap: Oh it can and has happened in the past
              There's enough articles online outlining this

        • +1

          Very well written! Side topic, I'm curious how long did it take for you to write such a comment? As a non-native speaker myself, I might need to spend 10-15mins to write similar contents but lack of the quality. If I really need to write similar quality, I might need to create a draft with all the points, and spend 20-30 minutes putting them in paragraphs, another 5 minutes correcting any grammatical mistakes.

          • +1

            @GeneralKeen: Wow this deal's comments are so varied!

            Your English seems more than fine, for a second language. Acquiring polish always takes time and practise, when learning a new language…especially if you are still translating on the fly from your primary language.

          • @GeneralKeen: Thanks Onomatopoeia. It took me a min or two to write it, as I was reading through the comments and this thought kept building in my mind. When I started writing, it just flowed. That's not to say everything I write is this easy. It can sometimes take me half a day just to draft an email. Your writing is fine and as you start to write more, it'll just flow more easily the more you do it. I think it was Malcolm Gladwell that researched and concluded that it takes 10,000hours to build greatness.

            • +1

              @clubhonda: Wow, that's impressive. The reason why I'm flagging your comment is the flow - exactly what you have pointed out. You have started with an intro, follow by your opinion and examples, and an out-tro. This style not only will deter flamers(not always) but will also attract constructive replies, like a proper debate.

            • @clubhonda: Not to be a wet blanket, but I believe ono was referring to peter05's post

              :)

        • Agree, this is why the ozbargain community has been so useful to regular folks in sussing out whats really good and whats bad.

  • +7
    • Maximum weight capacity: 100kg

    Not suitable for most OzBargainers

  • So I got OP with what appears to be a knowledgeable and detailed write up and 12 people disagreeing without any specific reason just broad statements.

  • Instead of using cheap shifter and derailleur, why not make it a single speed? Can also save cost by using a smaller chainring and minus the cassette.

    • +5

      Single-speed is Ok in Amsterdam, but not when you have a hill, a headwind, or want to go faster on a freeway cycle path.

      As I said, this bike has a freewheel. So the gear range is more limited than on a bike with a freehub. But a 2:1 range is still a lot better than nothing.

  • +2

    Nice write up. I'd consider this for an eBike conversion as well. However, I'd be going Mid/Crank Drive rather than Hub Drive. Mid Drive gives you the extra flexibility of being adjustable by the gear you select. My Bafang Mid Drive has been awesome for commuting to work.

    • +2

      Mid-drive does give you power over a wider speed range. For off-road use (climbing MTB trails) it is essential.
      But for on-road bike it is not so useful. Especially if you want a street-legal model, the torque range needed is much less.
      Electric motors have much less need for gearing than legs or internal combustion engines.

    • You should also consider new wheels with disc brake compatible hubs. Rim brakes and eBikes aren't a good mix. Then you'll have to work out how to weld the calliper mounts to the alloy frame and steel forks - easier to replace the frame and forks with a donor bike that already has disc brake mounts. While you're at it you should get a new cassette, and a new chain that will handle the torque from a mid-drive motor. The stem, cranks and bottom bracket most likely won't fit the new frame, so toss those in the bin. Once you upgrade everything on the bike to make it suitable for an ebike conversion, you will be left with a brown fake leather seat, and a couple of brown grips that you got for a bargain clearance price of $129, saving $50 of RRP!

  • +6

    From someone who worked in a bike shop for many years
    Better off buying second hand (from a bike shop even) even if it costs you a little more, and know it’s safe
    Kmart bikes were always the worst to try and fix up at the shop as you ended charging as much in labour as what the bike originally cost the poor customer, and inevitably it still didn’t run nicely
    Maybe the brake tracks on proper bikes are welded for a reason…

  • +9

    Clicked on this post expecting a yawnfest, but the OP vs Budju+Drakesy dream team has me opening up a pack of Cobs popcorn. How exciting!

    Thanks guys (or gals or…)

    • Glad we could help

  • +1

    Please note that this cycle has a major issue, the bar is quite high in the middle, unless you have a very long legs or at least 7 feet tall I wouldn't recommend this.

    • It is old-fashioned in respect to the top-tube height. But 5'7" or 1.7m is the minimum.

      • I am 6 feet and had no clearance, just check before you hit buy, and brakes are shocking as well

  • +1

    I just collected this bike, haven’t fitted yet. Hopefully it would be a good one. This is my first one, so don’t know much, but price looked good.

  • +1

    It is what it is….. a cheap bike that's cheaper than it was. If nothing else, it's a relative bargain - being cheaper than it was. Yes, some of its shortcomings will be because of assembly issues, which can be largely overcome by someone with the know-how. It's not rocket science….. but it does take time.
    So with a bit of additional effort it might ride okay to start with but it's price means it has a lot of cheap components and that will affect the bike's durability. This might not be a major issue for infrequent use but it is described as a commuter bike - which implies almost daily use to/from work/school/uni potentially in a range of conditions. If you're buying it for commuting then be prepared for the impact of parts failing prematurely e.g. delays in getting to where you're going, undertaking repairs (in transit or at home at night or on weekend) and the time and cost of sourcing parts. This happens on expensive bikes too - but in my experience, less often.
    YMMV but I'd prefer to buy a bike that is made with reputable components - especially parts that are prone to wear and tear e.g. parts containing bearings and/or those impacting more on on safety e.g. brakes and wheels (tyres/rims/spokes).

  • +3

    leave the bike for kmart mums
    I'm sure there will be a news.com.au article about how awesome of a buy it is

  • +2

    Buy cheap, get cheap. Plus, it’s the ugliest bike I have seen in years. Reminds me of those hipster flogs wearing those blue suede suits with wood grain shoes, filthy

  • +1

    For anyone interested in another option, in 2018 I picked this up new on sale at Reid for $300.

    Https://www.reidcycles.com.au/products/reid-city-1-0-commute…

    I used it to commute 15 km per day for four years with no dramas. I don't know much about bikes and I think Reid are known as being a bit cheap and nasty but it certainly served its purpose as I was looking for it to last three years before an upgrade and not be appealing for anyone to steal!

    • Is it alloy?

      • I don't even know that much! It is twice as heavy as my brothers Giant which I only learned when I borrowed his.

        • For me weight matters more than anything :)

      • Yes, it's alloy, but the bike is still nearly 15kg. A featherweight 7kg road bike probably isn't the best commuter either, but I'd be looking at something in the 11kg range for a compromise between sturdy and heavy.

  • +3

    Please modify upvoting rules. I nearly bought this landfill.

  • 200th upvote from me - mostly for the write up

  • +4

    This is garbage. Belongs in the forums.

  • Seen, and replied to a few people here defending these bikes.
    Sorry.. I get it.. you want a bike and you want a bargain.
    You’re an ozbargainer…

    Getting a deal can also mean getting quality as well.

    Sorry.. but a quick Google search will reveal what some were kindly trying to inform people of here in that buying bikes from big chains like Kmart are really not a good idea.
    Yes.. I know personally this..

    I a funny story related to buying a store bought bike:
    Met a girl who was into road biking with friends.
    I used to love biking and stopped after (unrelated) injuries. (10 year gap between cycling)
    Decided to get back into it again with here.
    Bought a Kmart style bike.
    Not only had smaller wheel diameter p, which made it twice as hard to keep up with them cycling, but also my fitness was far less than theirs, so literally collapsed after the first ride, snd went for a nan a nap to recover.
    After 2 months I was getting fitter and keeping up with the pack.
    We commenced climbing a steep hill, sand as I pushed my foot down on the pedal it gave way.. partially due to the cog skipping and and thus resulted in the cheap pedal breaking.
    Injuries and with only one pedal I cancelled the rest of my ride and found an alternative way home.
    The injury for that incidence left me with a bung foot for several years later..

    So… why did it happen.
    Could have been the cheap equipment
    Could have been how it was put together.
    I’ll never know..

    Lest to say that when I went to look for my next bike I googled like crazy and found, what those here are trying to tell people here, stay clear of these type of bikes.
    Even for a small town commute, to me it’s not worth it.
    Heavier bike, bad gear changes, equipment early failure..
    You name it.. so many rasons why not to buy from them.

    https://rascalrides.com/walmart-kids-bikes/

    • +3

      If you look at this bike, I think it's pretty clear even from its looks that you would not go anywhere near dirt with this bike. If anyone is stupid enough to bring this to some dirt trails, well… the jokes on them. This is clearly a "ride to the milkbar and back" bike, and as long as it's good enough for that, then it's fit for purpose. Don't put Ferrari hopes on a Fiat Punto mate.

      • +1

        am I missing something? Fred has clearly said he was 'road biking'. He's also advised against buying cheap bikes.

        Did you mean to reply to something else?

        • If you read his description, he went up a steep hill, sand, and it gave way. It doesn't feel like I'm reading road biking from that description. Sounds more like cross country instead.

          • @clubhonda: I'm willing to wager that 'sand' was a typo, Freddie meant to type 'and'.

            • @andresampras: @andresampras Ah, in that case, then I'm just as clueless as Freddie as to why the equipment failed. I've only ever ridden cheap bikes, but I've never experienced that sort of equipment failure. They're not the smoothest for switching gears or light, but I've never had actual pedals give way.

    • +2

      So Fred, are you and the girl still together?

  • +1

    deathtrap on wheels

  • +9

    Thanks OP - bought one. I don't get what all the hate is about. Its a bike. It goes from A to B. Are there better bikes? I'm sure there are. Are there cheaper bikes? No. Not even 2nd hand bikes are cheaper. And 2nd hand bikes are a one-off deal. You might find one in your area… you might not. Its not fair to compare a retail bike to 2nd hand imo.
    So the next step up is the Reid bike which other posters have linked: https://www.reidcycles.com.au/products/reid-city-1-0-commute…

    You're paying 3x the price for that one. Its easy to say "its worth infinitely more so its the real bargain", but you can't really compare something with something else worth 3x the cost. Its not in the same category.

    I must say, the sheer class-snobbery on display in this comment section is quite disgusting to me.
    How about poor people on fixed incomes like Centrelink payments, who are getting eaten alive by inflation. They just need a bike to get from A to B for the cheapest price - especially since petrol costs sky-rocketed - and a bunch of privileged piss-ants just can't wait to mob the comment section to downvote them. You are disgusting. Go vote for Scomo.

    • +2

      Every point I want to make, upvoted.

      I used to ride on a $36 bike in my college time, and sold it for $5. I'm still here in one piece, and I don't belive this "cheap" Kmart one will provide a worse experience than my old fella. It is that simple.

    • +1

      Cheap doesn't necessarily mean the best value for money. I understand that some people can't afford to pay more, which is okay so long as they have some way they can get this bike assembled and maintained properly. Repairing and maintaining a bike takes time and money….. even more so when you have a bike made from cheap components - you're in denial to think otherwise.
      There's not much use having a bike that you need to get from A to B but it can't do the job because it's failed and you can't afford to repair it and/or don't know how.

      • @bean_counter I've only had cheap bikes around a hundred bucks or less, and none of them have even failed. Not even $79 cheapies from Big W. It's a bit of a fallacy to say that buying a cheap bike would definitely be a bad idea because it's sure to fail. That's the sort of argument I see with people buying $1,000 Vitamix when a $99 generic works just as well, because people need to justify their purchase and superiority somehow. So I can tell you, based on personal experience, that buying and riding these for the average occasional milkbar run is completely fine.

        • +1

          50% of bikes sold in Australia come from discount stores, so unless there are many unreported deaths and injuries I’m taking a guess that they are bikes which are totally fine for the majority of people who use them like you do

          Bike people remind me of surfers (I’m one). Claim that a $300 Chinese surfboard is good value will get lambasted by those who only buy $1000 or custom made. But for anyone casually surfing they are totally fine; yes not as good but certainly good enough. Same with bikes - if you are riding them 15 or 20 minutes a day to get to school or work of pick up some milk, you don’t need smooth ultra fast gear sets or whatever

          • @dtc: my issue not about these bikes being death traps or the need for smooth ultra fast gears - it's about reliability. It's being sold as a commuter bike and having 10 years experience cycling to/from work I would have concerns about the durability of cheap components for the bike's supposed intended use.

        • @clubhonda this bike is being described and sold as a commuter bike. This quite often means being used for daily travel to and from work, which is a lot more demanding - both in terms of wear and tear and requirements for reliability (getting to work on time), than being used for your "average occasional milkbar run".

          I know this from personal experience - cycling (commuting) 20km daily to/from work for 10 years, mostly using a flat bar road bike i.e. same style as the Kmart bike

    • +1

      The Reid has stronger wheels (double-wall rims), better brakes, front gears, EZ-fire shifters, threaded headset. Not bad at all. The only weakness I see is the freewheel, rather than a freehub. Mudguards and rack included. You do get a lot of upgrades for 3X the price :-)

  • There seems to be a lot of bike experts here.. I want to spend $350-500 on a bike but not sure where to start as it seems quite easy to get into a lot of detail (haven't ridden one since I was a kid). I'm planning on riding approx. 10km/35 min pretty flat road on a bike lane to work and only know as far as getting a road bike / shimano or a giant? Any takers for suggestions for a newbie? :)

  • +3

    Just set your expectation accordingly. Treat it as a gateway drug for real cycling. Speaking as someone who started off with a Target bike. Now with a few hybrids and roadies.

    If one has enough interest in it, he will find out why it hurts his legs and need a real proper bike with fitting. He would buy a few more different style bikes like hybrid, MTB or roadies. He would learn to buy the good second hand bikes from the experience. He would also learn some basic bike maintenance. I would never have worn the lycra and on a carbon roadie if the Target BSO never happened. Gotta thanks my wife for the birthday gift.

    If one doesn't have much interest, this BSO would still be good riding with the kids.

  • Bought this for the teenagers. Can anyone recommend any budget adult-sized helmets to pair off with this bike? Or do I browse for them at kmart? Cheers.

    • ebay

    • If you hate your kids, eBay. If not, local bike shop

    • +1

      Kmart or BigW

      All helmets sold in Australia have to meet Australian certification. I’m not entirely sure of the difference between a $30 BigW one and a $300 bike shop one other than weight and perhaps aerodynamics. Safety wise they all meet a pretty high standard

      • If you're lucky, the $300 one /might/ have MIPS (or the brand's equivalent) for some extra noggin protection. Not always a given, though.

        I kept an eye out for good specials and got MIPS-equipped helmets from Fox (for me) and Giro (for the wife) for under $100 each when Pushys was running out previous season stock.

        Given that you need to be replacing them after any incidents/knocks and after a couple of years regardless…

  • Help if possible, i have an old Mongoose mountain bike the brakes and gears are stuffed, is it worth taking to the bike shop to repair if so how much would i be looking at?

    • +1

      Possibly not. The main problem with old and neglected bikes is that the cables are usually corroded and need replacement. So they'll have to change those most likely. If that was all you were up for, the mechanic hopefully wouldnt charge more than $150 or so. But if you need to change brake shoes, levers, etc, it will easily outpace the worth of the bike.

      I would suggest looking to see if you can fix it yourself, theres a wealth of info on youtube, and the parts themselves can be had quite cheaply if you shop around online.

  • For those wanting a laugh, check out the brake levers in the photo for K-mart's mountain bike :-)

    https://www.kmart.com.au/product/66cm-tourex-bike-42696957/

    • you have to dismount and be dragged backwards by the bike before you can brake!

  • So the upvotes for the deal or the description?

    • +2

      for the description alone, it seems.

      OP has dazzled us with his amazing spiel.

      This is why marketing runs the world.

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