Surprised you didn't post it as a bargain…with a link to referral credit
:)
[SURVEY] Which Car Do You Drive? » All Comments
Finally a good sense a humours, congrats!
Did you like it (+) ?
Good sense of humour, I like it (+)
Should edit to only fits one Bad Girl
Lol you got roasted with the negs here bro
1.Mitsubishi Magna 1997 wagon
2.Second hand
3.$3950 cash.
4.bugger all
5.snapped original timing belt @ 215,000
6.absolutely recommended ,they're bullet proofI know a few people who also have late 90's magnas which are still going strong, they really are bulletproof, and the best part is, they are so easy to maintain, so if done regularly they will last ages
And cup-holders that fit square milk cartons! Ah Aussie design at it's finest :)
i owned one of these and never noticed this!
TJ definitely had it, can't remember if TE did in the centre cup-holders
Looks like it did (best pic I could find). The centre cup-holders near the console have square indents that go half-way down - They're for the milk carton :)
@Spackbace:
I wondered why the top half was a strange shape. maybe if I bought iced coffees I would have realised.
Really? All the old magna's ive seen were smoky pieces of shit, You sure you're not confusing them with Camry's ?
Had a 1998 Sports sedan. Did 312,xxx km on it and it was flawless. First 100k, serviced it every 15k, next 100k every 10k and last 112k every 5k as it started chewing more oil than normal. Never missed a beat though and took me to all states except NT
funny u mention that im about to buy a 2005 magna wagon.. got him down to 3500 :)
Do it…
I used to have one that leaked oil like a sieve, but otherwise was a nice car.
Likewise, I had to get rid of my '99 magna due to oil leak.
215,000 for the timing belt is damn fine. But what did that cost to repair? Thanks
Thankfully no damage …just the cost of the new belt. (the valve gods were all lined up 😄)
I can relate to this, I have a 2000 Magna at 170xxxkm. About to upgrade to an 03' with RWC, low KM's for just over $3k. Thoughts?
- 2007 Nissan Cube, 1.5L CVT
- Private import from Japan (44k on the clock when imported. Verified from auction sheet).
- All up $12k fully imported. Cash
- Nissan Micra parts, insurance is through Shannons (around $800/year), servicing is standard, good on fuel around 500km on a 45L tank, 1.5L engine.
- None, no issues.
- Very much so, if you need a funky car with a ton of space. Everyone calls it a Tardis when they hop inside. Has bench seats on the front and is like sitting on a sofa when driving.
I seriously want one or something close. I'd be filling it up constantly with all the travel I do though.
Can put you in touch with an Aussie ex pat that lives in Japan who exports them if you want ;)
Err, there's a place in Silverwater that imports them.
Why would you think they are uneconomically. It says its right there, its 1.5 litres. It will hardly use anything.
Yep plenty of places that import them too. Plenty that change the odometers without you knowing also as is rife with the import industry. Good to get one yourself at least you know what the real kms are and you can get one exactly to your choosing.
Why do you think everyone knows everything about cars? Clearly they're not the wikipedia of knowledge that you are. For what it's worth, there's a 1.4L model that is pretty horrendous with fuel economy, but I'm assuming that you already knew that. Just wanted to state what it does that's all.
It's attitudes like yours that make me question why should I bother contributing to online communities.
Why would you think they are uneconomically. It says its right there, its 1.5 litres. It will hardly use anything.
Ever think someone needs a long range tank, or needs to go further than 500km on a regular basis? Hence why saying:
I'd be filling it up constantly with all the travel I do
Think before you reply next time
@Spackbace: Good that someone gets it. I do 400-600km a week ;) A cube would have to be my weekend car.
Yeah lets be realistic for a minute. A 45 litre tank on a 1.5 litre motor is something like 500km range given sub 10lt/100km range.
So you have to fill up… ONCE a week from dead empty. That's a big ask for a city, I mean what with the lack of servos everywhere. I mean sometimes some suburbs I only see two servos in a 1 kilometer stretch.
Here's some reality… I drive a V8. I was asked to drive to Port Macquarie from Sydney. I filled up once in Taree because I'd rather be safe than sorry. I made in back to Sydney with 1/3 tank left.
The car has a 60 litre tank. So in 700km+ I filled up once just because I wanted a safety margin.
This is car with a 5.7 litre V8. But hey, you people worry about a 1.5 litre car with a 45 litre tank…
Here's some reality, i've driven from Syd to Brisbane a few times and averaged 780km per tank in the same cube which sits it around 5.7l/100km Freeway. The average I stated was just out and about the town… seeing as you're the one who wants to get real particular with the details.
No one asked you about what your V8 does. In fact, no one was making any fuss about this whole thing except for you.
So you have to fill up… ONCE a week from dead empty. That's a big ask for a city, I mean what with the lack of servos everywhere. I mean sometimes some suburbs I only see two servos in a 1 kilometer stretch.
Unless you're not frequently in a big city and work across 2 states like I do.
@tonyjzx: you obviously haven't got a clue!
It's not just the size of the ngine and the capacity that determine fuel consumption, driving a 1.5L engine at 110kph will consume fuel close to if not more than a V8 5.7L engine at the same speed, you would be pushing the poor 1.5L at at least 3-4 RPM the whole trip while the bigass 5.8L would be sitting under 2.
Do you even get what I am talking about?
Have knowledge, be nice, or do not contribute!
I'd love a Cube or a Toyota Rukus filled with subwoofers. They seem like an awesome sound-system car
@Bonsaichop:
I have a 1.4 (2004) and it's 7.5l/100km. Pretty good I think, though I believe the 1.5 is slightly better.
Thought aboutbeing a car salesman?
I want to buy one after reading that last part hahaha
@Bonsaichop — how's the CVT? Is the sound annoying?
$800 insurance seems steep for a $12K car (but then again i pay the same for an old Audi or probably similar real life value). Must be because you imported it?
- Rhino Tank
- as new from Fort Zancudo
- Stolen - be sure to wear body armour as you will be shot at
- Never refueled - runs on solar power or voodoo, not sure
- cop magnet, can be a bit slow on the freeway, but can just drive straight over peak hour traffic
- Yes as per comment above, bullet proof!
Does it have Rhino roof racks?
No just a bfg
98 Toyota Prado, 325000km, LPG dual fuel. Bought 8 years ago for $13k cash 2nd hand private buyer with 170k km. Log book serviced including stuff like timing belts when the book says. No major issues. Would buy again if you need a 7 seater that can tow. I'll be looking to keep this till the engine needs re-boring or a kid leaves home.
Main car - was bought as wifes car but change in circumstances means I am main driver
1. Holden VY Berlina International Wagon 5.7 V8 auto 2002 (ltd edition, 325 made in total, mix of V6 and V8)
2. Second hand private, was 13 years old with 118000km
3. $8500 redraw
4. better than expected 13l/100km. Service myself. <$500 per year comprehensive
5. leak from water pump, topped up twice in 18 months of ownership (it was listed during pre-purchase inspection)
6. hell yeah. it's quiet (stock exhaust), comfortable, roomy, tows well, auto is niceWifes car
1. Holden Rodeo dual cab 3.2 V6 4wd LX 2000
2. Second hand (ex holden fleet), was 6 months old with 6500km - now 126000km
3. $34 drive away - loan which was paid out when lump sum became available
4. 12.5-13 l/100km. serviee myself. <$450/year comprehensive
5. steering freeplay - been there since we got it - could never get problem identified
6. Yes, it is the most useful vehicle I have ever owned. what can't it do? it's not track car, OK in a straight line3rd car - the one that the wagon was bought to replace.
1. Mitsubishi Lancer 1992 CC GSR AWD 1.8litre turbo (think baby Evo)
2. Second hand, was 12 years and 155000km old - now 306000km
3. $15000 - loan, paid out early
4. 8.5-9 l/100 (way more if flogging it), service myself
5. roof rust, common CC Lancer fault. 2nd gear is a bit snatchy if trying to shift quickly, otherwise OK
6. Yes, but most have been modified.
Wifes car
how many? (should it be wives?)
Wifes or wives
That's what happens when op forget the importance of punctuations. wife's
I know nothing about car loans so correct me if im wrong, but I thought car loans had some sort of fee/protection against loanee's? paying out loans early.
we did not get penalised for early payment.
we made sure before we applied for loan because we aimed to pay out as early as possible.
amazing your GSR has that many k's! solid engine
heh, He isn't driving it hard enough then :-)
You paid $15k for a 12yo GSR with 155k in 2007?
Seller's dream!
that was the market conditions at the time.
took 2-3 months for one to be available after we decided that was what we wanted.
full service history, 1 owner
didn't see another one for another few months either - similar price.
and given the experience we've had with it, I'd pay it againFair enough,
My brother sold his one in early 2000 with under 100k on the clock for $18k.
They had a following and didn't have the EVO at the time so resale must have been good.
That was the going rate back then. Not many 4wd turbo cars, low volume of new sales and high volume of 2nd hand buyers.
One of the best cars i have driven on sydney streets is cc gsr with e3 engine, suspension and brakes we did a conversion on.. basically a mild e3 evo with bolt ons but weighed nearly 200kg less. At the time it was just as quick as my modded v6 sti but cost half the price.
Whats the going rate now?
We got offered $800 as a trade in 18 months ago……….not that we ended up buying the car we were looking at anyway.
we are keeping it, make a good learners car for the kids….
When we were wagon shopping, the private seller of a Passat R36 we looked at asked what we'd be doing with it (but he wanted to turn it into a track car). for those that like them, well they like them. we have also had two notes under the wiper asking if for sale in the time we have had it. and we had a guy in the lane next to us ask if we'd sell (that was not long after we had bought it though).
carsales shows zero stock ones at the moment, only 2 modified ones in 6-8k range plus some same era EVO's
Yeah I would assume its worth a few K still. Dealers just go off age and assume its worth nothing. Smart ones know they should still fetch a lot more then $800
- 2015 Mazda 3 SP25 Astina
- New
- $28k Cash
- $35 Full tank, About 650-700km $90/pm insurance
- Driver seats dodge af, Needs better noise dampening.
- Yes, Nice car to drive
$28k for Astina? How did you manage that / list price before on-roads is $37k for the auto?
after trade in ;), Not sure if wanted with or without
Ahhhhh changeover price that makes more sense :-)
@dylanando:
$35 for a full tank? Where is petrol so cheep?
P.s. I paid around 99 cents per liter (ULP) yesterday and it's almost 20 cents cheaper than average price in VIC..
that must be a really small fuel tank.
$1 per litre means its only 35 litres, surely its a bigger tank than that.http://www.mazda.com.au/cars/mazda3-sedan/price-and-specific…
It's 51L maybe the low fuel light comes on early??
i fill up on fuel light and clicks multiple times at $35,
so not $35 to fill the car up?
they must have improved heaps cos SP25's years ago were really poor for fuel economy.
I think you need to ease off on the bowser trigger after the first click, I reckon you'd get another 6 litres worth of fuel. For a 51L tank, you'd need to fill up about 41L of petrol when the light turns on.
@PVA: From fuel light to full, It costs roughly $35, Why the hell would I lie lol? Given the price of fuel is on the rise again, The will more than likely change, However its been 89c about 3 weeks ago and now around $1.08. I dont need to fill up all to often!
I have a SP25 GT - while not the diesel model it certainly does report the low petrol like very early.
Still another 10L in the tank!
Who is your insurer? I pay more for same car
Bingle, How much to fill yours? Swear all i can get in it is $35 haha, Fuel was like 89c for ages however!
What's the go with your drivers seat? I have a 3 in the same range and haven't had any issues, just curious.
Few things online about them just tearing and ripping. Myen is also quite creased!
How is it $35 a tank? I was driving a Mazda 3 SP25 GT last year and it's the same engine. It was ~$50 per fill with about 100 km left in the tank. This was U95 and E91 is only a few cents cheaper per liter.
Fact of the matter is, From fuel light to full, My car will only take $35. As suggested the fuel light comes on real early, Im still getting 600km from it easily, Might drive like a grandma?. I have never gone anywhere near $50 per tank.
I can usually get two weeks out of my fill to, So $17.50/pw isnt bad ;)
09 Ford FG G6
Bought Pre-Owned from Dealer
$10,650 Financed
I drive atleast 60-70KMs a day, $35-40 Fuel Octane 98 weekly, $200-300 every 6 months, Im new driver, I have my dad as primary driver, $75 per month comprehensive RAC.
No problems
hell yea, but fuel will kill you.
- Jeep Wrangler Sport 2dr 2012
- Second hand, private
- $22,600 Cash
- Eats fuel like crazy, insurance ~$950 (covers under 25), bought it after the previous owner serviced it.
- Just bought it, I hope faults ain't coming any time soon…
- Not a smooth drive, fuel consumption bad. But I love the exterior of a wrangler.
you need to take it off road and get it dirty. Then you will adore it like a pet. Even enjoy washing it afterwards.
Heard "apparently they're different now that they're not made in Asia (think it was Thailand) any more, and manufacturing has moved back to USA". Anyone know about this?
I do not have a car.
Saving your nillions for a rainy day
Why spend millions when you could spend… 😏☝️ NILLIONS?
Do you have a moped?
Golf Mark VI 118TSI
Bought new in 2011. Manufacturer replaced gearbos after 6 months but no dramas since. This well documented issue caused resale values to fall and you can pick up a low klm one around 15-18K.
$350 - $400 sevice costs once a year.
New tyres at 50,000lkm, looking to get new brake pads in 3 months time.
Combined 98octane fuel consumption low 7's. Highway low 6's.
Would I buy again? Shit yeah!!!
- 2008 Subaru Impreza RX
- Bought used privately
- $9500 around 18 months ago
- Fuel consumption is pretty average for the size car, around 9.5-10L/100km. Servicing 300-400 a year.
- Not really, pretty reliable.
- For my budget and criteria (hatchback, not base model and not older than 10 yrs) at the time it was the best car to drive, quiet and comfortable, great on the highway, well equipped and well built. Few drawbacks (thirsty around town, performance isn't inspiring) but a nice car and I would recommend it.
- 2013 Mitsubishi Triton GLX-R
- New from dealer
- $40800 leased over 5 years
- Around 9.5L/100km fuel, don't know servicing cost as it's built into the lease
- Squeaky rear suspension bushes keep getting replaced (will replace with aftermarket after warranty expires), had a fuel sensor problem causing surging fixed under warranty, and an airbag problem fixed under recall
- If you're looking for a 4x4 dual cab ute, the Triton is the best value, with the top model costing less than the base model of some other utes. I would highly recommend it.
I've been looking at a similar vehicle (got the 4X4 bug) and man comparatively the Toyota Land cruisers 70 series are so bloody expensive. They do seem to hold their value though.
Toyota landcruiser sahara 200series diesel 2008
Bought from Dealer
Cash $130k
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
Cheap for a v8 12l - 14l per 100
I dump the oil every 15k and thats about all.Faults? Any major problems?
None major, lots of electrical issues. Auto tailgate is broken and aircon has failed a couple times.Will you recommend your car?
If you are a boring toyota person then this is perfect.
If you like bush trips and towing shit this is hard to beat.
Not so good in city carparks. Too wide too high$130k? I didn't think they would be that expensive.
Yeah mate after dealer delivery, bullbar and tow pack. That was a discounted price too
Sahara diesel is as expensive as the landcruisers get, you can get the base modelfor just under 100k I think.
Wow, $130K in cash! That would be 1300 $100 notes. How did you carry that much cash around? Felt safe with that much cash on you?
Briefcase with cash like a drug deal! Bank cheque mate, I suppose i lied not that comfortable rocking that sort of cash travelling from east to west sydney.
You didn't lie. People just take things too literally. If you paid it up front (i.e. didn;t finance it) you paid cash
If you could do a do-over, would you go 70 series instead? considering electrical faults etc.
I like the 70 series wagon and certainly good for doing a lot of bush work and crossing rivers its the perfect 4x4 workhorse, not much goes wrong with them. I am a family man though and the extra seats in the 200 helps with the kids and their friends. Its a good balance for mainly city driving and casual offroading. I would have to be honest and say its a bit of a townie 4x4 which I can take off road on long weekends and tow equipment across the country very comfortably. She goes very well and has great acceleration on the highways.
- 2010 Ford Focus TDCi
- Pre-owned, private sale
- 11.5k cash
- $50/tank, gets 700km or so. 6L/100km if I drive sensibly. $300(ish) a year servicing. $1,000/year for insurance.
- Not yet…
- Yeah, it's pretty good. Being turbo diesel bumped up the cost of insurance a couple of 100 $$ a year, but damn it's much more fun to drive.
I have a 2014 Focus Turbo Diesel and definitely rate it too.
I have a 2011 Focus Ambiente automatic transmission (purchased in 2012). Bought new from a dealer.
Major transmission problem: the infamous shuddering automatic transmission problem have now worsen and the transmission just suddenly dies (gear disengage while cruising).
It is currently in the service center being repaired. I would recommend avoiding this particular batch.
- Which car do you drive? Ford, FG XR6 Lpi 2012,
- Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer, pre-owned
- How much did you pay for the car? $21,000, had done 20,000km
- Running costs? $40 for 600km, $150 service/6months, $500 comprehensive insurance
- Faults? none
- Will you recommend your car? Absolutely. 200 kw RWD, cheap to run, service and repair. But most importantly, very fun to drive.
May I ask you what insurance company is that? 500 seems cheap to me (I paid 600)
AMMI, dont renew. Always resign up from scratch as you get a $100 discount for signing up on-line.
Yes a new customer always gets a cheaper price! Our little fiesta was $500+ to renew but only $375 as a new insurance with NRMA!
- 2013 Mazda 3 (Neo) Hatchback
- Pre-owned' private sale
- $14,500 cash
- Average 8.9L/100km with my driving style. Only had one service so far, which was only around $200. $450 for the year for comprehensive.
- Nope; not yet, at least.
- Over my old car, definitely. Good and reliable little car; gets the job done.
Who is your insurer?
NRMA (QLD)
I have the same car! How many kms did you get it with?
Just a tad over 30,000kms when I bought it in September last year. Got just over 37,000kms on the clock now though.
Which car do you drive? Subaru, Outback (Premium, Diesel), 2015
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Demo
How much did you pay for the car? $38000 Finance or cash? Finance
Running costs? $50 gives me over 1100km, ~$300-350 for service 12000km/6 months, ~$600 comprehensive insurance
Faults? None yet
Will you recommend your car? Definitely! Extremely economical for its class considering it is permanent AWD, handling is superb and very comfortable for long drives.Wow $50 for over 1100km is really good.
My prius V usually covers around 700km for $50 fuelThe subaru diesels are very economical especially on the highway. Makes my toyota look like a coal chimney.
On the highway the Outback is very economical, but as an everyday car around town is the total opposite. You will get better mileage from your Prius around town than from an Outback or any other diesel car.
Prius is not very exciting to drive in town or on the highway.
@thorton82: you can Scandinavian flick sideways like Colin McRae in an outback and hold the drift like a pro. Do that in a Prius and you'll under steer and end up in a tree.
Really keen on this car so cheers for replying. This or skoda scout. I want an awd wagon, NOT an suv!
- 2008 Honda Accord Euro
- Dealer, Pre-Owned
- $16,000, Cash (Purchased 2014)
- ~700km from 65L of 95, both start/stop and freeway driving. 6 month service intervals, not sure about cost as I do it myself which ends up being relatively cheap. ~$650/year for insurance.
- Nothing so far.
- Yes if you're looking for comfort, decent handling, reliability and features.
- Toyota Aurion, 2011, Touring SE
- Pre-owned, from a dealer, traded in by a retiree couple
- $15,500 cash
- 550km from 55L or 95, mixed driving. Can do 620+km on long freeway trips. Rego in VIC is $771/year, Insurance for me (full comp) is about $1100/yr. Maintenance is nomimal, although last service was a 90k major, so cost almost $700 ($250 for spark plugs alone)
- Nothing so far (touch wood)
- Absolutely. It's not going to make you grin like an idiot when cornering, but the engine is silky smooth, with plenty of spare power on tap. Effortless when cruising, plenty of interior and boot space, and 9-month/15,000km service intervals. Works very well as a no-nonsense A-to-B car with plenty of space for city use, power and comfort enough for long trips.
My full comp insurance with Youi for Toyota Aurion (2009) is 650$/year. You should seriously negotiate with your insurer as you are paying way too much!
My license isn't very old, plus i insure for agreed value…my renewal will be up in a month or so, I'll play them hard
What a stupid comment. How do you know he/she pays too much? How do you know they haven't had 5 accidents in the last two years? How do you know they don't live in a dodgy area?
Correct, I don't know anything about twister.
Why put insurance into running costs in the first place when it depends on so many variables and offers no reasonable comparison at all?
1.Ford Fiesta ST, 2014
2.New through dealer
3.26k - financed
4.Service - 270 per year (fixed), 800 for insurance and 60 for a full tank
5.None as yet
6.Absolutely, only if you want a 2dr hatchback.
- Nissan 370z (2015)
- New from Macarthur Nissan
- 56k, cash
- Insurance around $1300. Fuel can get expensive due to the nature of the engine. Servicing is capped for the first 5 years.
- Flawless
- Unquestionably! This car is truly psychotic in such a good way, it's the best handling car I have ever driven in my life and I couldn't go back to driving a normal car. Mind you if you have a family and need space I wouldn't recommend this car.
I used to own a rx7 2x2. The only person that has ever been comfortable in the back is my legless mate.
Great car!
I see that most OZBargainers drive boring cars.
what's your car that's not too boring?
Golf GTI.
Will have a serious look at the M2 when it's released.
Mazda 3 SP25 2010
Bought preowned cash
$17000 cash
CTP $650 Comprehensive $750. Fuel around $40 a forthnight since we dont drive much
No problem
Absolutely :)What sort of fuel efficiency are you getting? I get around 10.5 on the trip computer but mainly inner city driving.
It's a beautiful car to drive :)
Yeah i get around 10l/100kms :D But we do a lot of high way driving so :)
It certainly loves to suck the fuel, totally worth it though :)
@ShamelessBargains: I've been looking at another car but I just can't get past how good this car handle. Well for a family sedan.
I'll try to buy an Astina next year maybe :D
@tomleonhart: The Astina is pretty sweet but I would probably get the Maxx/Touring of the BM series 3 as they hold their value real good and are more fuel efficient :)
Same car and year. When did you buy yours? I got mine last year for $11000, but my insurance is double.
I bought mine last year too lol. maybe because my mileage was low? it was only 25000kms when i bought it.
Yep, mine's closer to 90k.
Mine has done 120k and got it for $9k. My insurance is about the same as yours too with AAMI.
2010 Mitsubishi Pajero NT Model
Purchased second hand with 25K km's on the clock. Now done 145k's
$32000 - cash
Service is expensive if you use Mitsu, every 15K km, local mechanic about $400 and once a year to mitsu.
Diesel, about $90 per tank, gives me about 900 odd km, a tad under.
No issues whatsoever, recently replaced suspension which made a big difference.
Would happily recommend to anyone who needs a big seven seater at a fraction of the cost of a Prado.I used to drive a Pajero. Good drive and gizmos, but my AC unit was buggy so after 3? fixes I let it go. Also engine oil kept getting dirty and needed changing.
- 2016 Skoda Octavia Style (hatchback)
- Bought brand new from a dealer
- $40,500 (tech and comfort pack), consolidated with home loan and sold old car.
- Can get on average 650km for a full tank of fuel and is about $60 to fill up from empty. Rego is like $750 or so a year. Comprehensive insurance $1,100 for agreed value (I'm 24 yrs old). Capped price servicing for 6 years (intervals are once a year) which averages $390 per annum.
- None thus far and too early to tell except I find the road noise a little annoying :)
- Yes :)
Road noise might decrease when you get new tyres. Recently replace the tyres on my Skoda Yeti and a considerable improvement is noticeable from the factory fitted ones.
Thanks for that. Now I'm looking forward to replacing them!
Mind me asking what brand tyres you got?
BMW 535d luxury line 2013
Secondhand from dealer
82k cash
$60 a week on fuel, $1700 registration Ctp comprehensive. Maintainance around $800 a year
No fault, yet ?
love. Absolutely recommend it.
Only for those who can afford it =(
lol $800 maintenance a year, must be the gold leaf additive in that engine oil.
$800 will probably include tyres, brakes, etc..
$800 sounds pretty reasonable to me as it's not a cheap car.
@JB1: TBH most of it probably goes into the labour charge @ the stealership.
Expensive car =/= expensive maintenance
True, but for resale purposes, are you going to take your late model 5 series to ultratune?
@JB1: since car is a massively depreciating asset anyway (esp mercs), no point thinking about resale value. You would lose money anyway and maybe an extra $1000 off resale if it wasn't serviced at the stealership.
You'll save more than that over the life of the car if you do basic service yourself or at a reputable local mechanic.
Only purpose for stealership maintainance is warranty.
If I was in the market for a luxury car and saw that it was 'serviced' at home or at a non-specialist mechanic, I'd think, if they have cheapo on servicing, I'd question what else they have gone cheapo on.
For a Toyota, I see your point of view, but let me know when you buy a $100k car and service it yourself, then at least you'd put your money where your mouth is.
Hey Eisvath,
I'm thinking of buying one of these - would you recommend it over the 535i? The 0-100 is impressive as is the fuel consumption.
I'm kind of wary of the BMW brand/reliability.
I test drove the E350 CDI and I didn't mind it but the figures on the BMW seem to be a lot better.
Hey, I have a 535i m-sport 2011. I test drove both and the diesel obviously had more torque and felt more powerful. This wasnt at full throttle.
Cant vouch for going wide open throttle though sad to say I havent even driven it hard since owning it due to the fear getting demerit points and fines.
The fuel consumption is crazy good on the 535d, I didnt like the sound of the engine and I also read online that the diesel in Australia is too crap for high performance diesel engines, DPF problems etc. Of course all this could be just rubbish but I didnt want to take the risk.
My 2 cents would be to actually go for 520d (and get the PPK - if they have it in AUS).
or 528i (N20) - Smaller engine, Still has decent punch.
or E250 CDI - If your looking at buying new as the F10 replacement will be out sooner.Whatever you do dont get a 520i or e200 CGI.
Bottom line : I think there is no real point of having a performance sedan in Australia. You are better off saving that money and spending it on a weekend track car.
Thanks! What about 520d and 528i vs the 535i? I'd probably look for the older 528i with the N52 because I've been wary about the turbo 4's used in the E90 320i's.
Main Car:
- 2015 Hyundai Tuscon Active X Auto.
- Bought brand new from a dealer - picking up next week.
- $22,000 after trade in of 6 year old i30 wagon. Price for Tuscon incl rego/drive away was $30,500. Financing but may amalgamate with home loan next year.
- Fuel ok according to reviews I have read. Comprehensive insurance thru CGU for $54 a month - very pleased with that. Capped price servicing for 5 years.
- Previous exp with Hyundais has been good and there's a 5 year warranty for any dramas.
- I'll let you know! But really like the look of it.
Second station/kid's taxi car:
- 1999 Toyota Corolla
- Bought privately a year ago for $4k cash, in great condition. The same day a dealer tried to sell us the same model and year for $7k! The one we got is in better condition too. Currently 178,000km and we are averaging no more than 5,000 per year in this car.
- Very cheap to run. Comprehensive cover is about $30 a month, fuel cheap as we don't do many kms.
- Hasn't missed a beat. One minor repair needed at last year's rego and two front tyres that I knew were on their last legs.
- These have a reputation for lasting forever and I've seen nothing to contradict that. This was the top of the range model at the time so has aircon, electric windows and mirrors etc - even the 90s luxury item of a 6 CD player!. Everything, absolutely everything works as it should, which is very rare in cars of this age or even much newer cars. Drives very nicely, doesn't feel like an old car.
Hi Brianqpr,
We are planning on buying Tucson Active X as well.
Wondering if you can PM me the details of the dealer alonwith the price we can negotiate?
When is it manufactured? After 17 Nov 15?
- Honda Integra GSI 1995 Manual
- Second hand
- 8 years ago for $7,300 with cash
- 10 litres per 100km, servicing about $130 for a standard service, insurance for third party fire and theft is about $250 a year.
- No major problems, have maybe spent $3500 over 8 years on servicing and fixing things
- Yes, very reliable, haven't had any issues in the last few years
You are really lucky.
You had a honda integra that wasn't reliable?
No. I never owned it, but generally such old cars have higher maintenance.
- Audi A1 S-Line 1.8L Petrol Turbo - 2015
- New from Dealer
- $40k cash after trade in
- too early to say, have a corporate deal for free servicing for 3 years (all services).
- Not yet
- it's a great speedy little car!
Where's the Camrys at?
Recalled!
- BMW 135i Coupe 2010
- Private
- 40k cash
- 12-14L/100km
$1000 a year in servicing
$1300 a year in insurance - Leaky injectors, Misfires etc
- Yes for the car enthusiast, no due to maintenance cost
Is this the N54 or N55 engine? Do you think the same problems would appear in say a 535i or a X6 35i which both use the N55?
N55 is a far more reliable engine, albeit less tuneable.
If you want power, the N54 is the easiest to extract decent power … albeit with a plethora of things that can go wrong.
I have the N54
Yep, as said below the N55 is far more reliable however N54 for tune-ability
FBO JB4, E50. Bye bye 99% of cars on the road.
Which car do you drive? Mitsubishi Lancer, 2007, 2.4L 4 speed auto
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? New - dealer
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Cash - about 22,000
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance approx 250 each service, sometimes about a grand. Insurance and rego/ctp together about 1500 - 2000g
Faults? Any major problems? None - rock solid.
Will you recommend your car? Yes for enthusiasts, but not for ozbargain. probably guzzles fuel more than a camry, but I despise cars that slow down on uphill roads.Which car do you drive? Chrysler 300c, 5.7L hemi
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? New - dealer
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Cash - about 50,000
Running costs? approx 400 each service, sometimes up to 1800. Insurance and rego/ctp together about - 2000g
Faults? Any major problems? None - rock solid. Wiper washer tank cracked.
Will you recommend your car? Yes for enthusiasts, but not for ozbargain. obvious gas guzzler. every owner I now loves their 300. Allegedly you can get the same comfort, performance and better fuel efficiency at about the same price in a used Beamer but there is a unique charm to essentially maneuvering a battering ram which I don't feel in Audi's/beamers.That's a lot of car for 50k. And gangster… :)
Why the 300c? I get it is big, wide and (subjectively) pleasing to the eye. What else is the appeal? I've never been able to see it.
test drive one. its not for everyone, thats for sure. The interior is pretty cheap looking compared to the BMW/AUDI/Lexus, etc but it does cost a lot less than those. one of my friends said its easier to drive his truck and he means a real truck not a ute.
What kind of enthusiast would buy a base model Lancer?
THe lancer ES 2.4L 4 speed is zippier than you would think for a station/groceries run. Enthusiasts like responsive cars, especially when it jumps if the gas is slightly pressed.
I also like the older ford focus and all the subaru's in the same range. I admit the subaru is actually a better choice and more rally-ish. Unfortunately the ignorant salesmen at those shops couldn't give a (profanity) to show me the cars.
What a load of bullshit.
Which car do you drive? 2015 Toyota 86
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Brand new
How much did you pay for the car? $39k cash
Running costs? $180 capped price service every 9 months/15,000 km - fuel probably around 10ish l/100km (I don't track it(. Insurance around $800 p.a annum for a 25 year old driver.
Faults? Any major problems? No faults or problems to date
Will you recommend your car? yes - but only if you enjoy drivinggood resale too
Slow and terribly ugly tho
Can I ask what car you drive?
Slow yes, ugly, c'mon?!!!
Just needs a turbo.
2009 MINI John Cooper Works Clubman
Pre owned private seller
Cash - $20 500
Fuel maybe a tank once a fortnight/3 weeks on 98 is $40-$50. Insurance is $600/year. Servicing varies as to what it needs. Just did the 100 000km service. rear rotors, brake pads all round, spark plugs, filters and all fluids was $1300
No faults….. Yet
No. MINIs aren't for everyone. They are small, but are about as close to legally driving a go-kart on the road as you can get.
- 2003 Ford Falcon XR8 manual
- Dealer used.
- $8500 cash
- High (insurance for a <25 $85 month with a ridiculous excess, 15L/100km (and that's mostly highway use!), servicing relatively cheap)
- No major faults. Only a few scratches caused by previous owner(s)
- It's a pretty good car. Great on the highway. It's a definite license loser if you don't know how to excercise restraint. Manual gearbox is a little clunky. Glad to have owned a dinosaur manual v8 as I doubt there will be many left in 20 years or so (at an affordable price anyway).
Chrysler 300c V6 3.5L petrol 2009
New; dealer.
$59,000 with satnav and sunroof, financed.
60L tank runs 500-600km.
Minor service $400 major $1000+.
$500 comprehensive (discounted,we have 4 other cars and good history).Plastic is a bit fragile, snapped door handle ($300) and hand brake ($300), otherwise great, no mechanical issues after 140k.
Highly recommended, great value for money (Built in HDD, heated leather seats etc); despite somehow high running cost.
Shows you how much cheaper cars are getting. Guy couple of posts above paid around 50k for a hemi. What a time to be alive
I was thinking the same thing, considering when I bought it they initially asked for $73k!
Although the 300c used to come with full options and only missing the satnav, sunroof and reverse camera; now they have the base model with less options and you build it from there for extra, not sure if the 50k hemi had all the stuff included, if it did thats a great price.
They screwed the look on the new models though!
- Hyundai i20 Active Auto 2015
- Brand New from dealer @ pennant hills
- $12,888 Cash
- $35 - 400km, Haven't had a paid service yet. Insurance is $50/month with Coles. Just over 25!
- Everything seems really good but only driven 3000km in 6 months :(
- At this price, why not.
True ozbargainer, you got a good price!
Thank you! lol but I actually put no effort into haggling the price. It just popped up on google $12,888 Auto Driveaway, rang up paid deposit and went to pick car up few days later.
Apparently all other Hyundai dealers were complaining about them and that $12,888 price had to be removed from google within 2 hours after putting it up.
He still had 4 left at that point when I went to get mine at that price.
- Ford Fairlane Ghia 2007
- Pre-owned gov't auction
- 2009, 20,000 after trade in, financed
- 70L tank, approx. 650 - 680 km per tank, minor service ~ $250, approx. $600 comprehensive
- Issues with brake discs warping, battery replaced, roof lining repaired, leaky window seals due to age. No major mechanical issues otherwise.
- Great on the highway and open road, not so good for city driving and parking. Parallel parking with this car on a busy road is an act of faith.
You could trade-in your old car at a gov't auction?
Should read after selling my old car, got rid of my old car to a car yard.
- 2007 VW Jetta 2.0L TDI Manual - full options bar sunroof
- Pre-owned, 80K, showroom condition; single white female; only ever used the driver seat, and that still looks new also…
- 11K cash
- Fuel - $55 gets me 900kms urban driving, servicing - standard cost, no different to the Ford Mondeo I had prior, insurance - $550 Bingle Comprehensive
- Common minor issues with electricals (door locks - one currently intermittently refuses to unlock, quoted $350 to replace - and coolant temperature sensors (just need to clean the sensor probes in expansion reservoir)). No transmission issues with manual.
- Yeah, love it. Once you go German, you can't go back…
My mrs has the same but 06, we havent had any of those electrical issues kncok on wood.
A lot have the roof lining coming away when we were looking. Only issue we have had is a wine at full lock, changed the gearbox oil to fuch which was $40ish. Oem would have cost nearly 200 just in oil. Fixed the issue
A wine at full lock? I think someone has a drinking problem.
Spelt fuchs wrong too
Also got the same car but 2008. You're right, once you go german, you can't go back. Had a hyundai before. However, I once lost my keys, it cost me an arm to get a new spare one.
- Honda CRV 2005
- private
- $11,500 cash (in 2013)
- very low running costs, fuel efficient, (relatively) inexpensive servicing
- virtually nil (touch wood)
- Absolutely! Only problem is finding it in the parking lot amongst all the other silver CRVs
Any issues with airconditioning? - there's heaps of forum posts online regarding the aircon compressor of this batch of CRV, and the one before it
Hmm, I haven't had any issues with it, but perhaps the previous owner (2013) resolved this before I got it.
Honda CRV 2.0 MK 2015 Plus
New
$32,800 , Cash
It currently shows 10.5 Lts per 100 Km. I dont drive much so meh.
None.
Yes , will definitely recommend it for practicality of the car. Its a tad underpowered IMHO though.- Hyundai Accent 2006 Hatchback, 2 door FX model
- Second Owner, bought back in 2011
- Cash. Paid 9k at the time
- 33-37 bucks a week driving to and from work, approx. 60km all up per day. Servicing is cheap. Insurance is approx. 800 p/a (25 y/o male, 60% discount or w/e)
- None with the car hardware itself
- Yes, but I would get a 4 door version.
1: 2015 Mack Superliner (685hp MP10, 40inch midroof bunk, 130t Meritor rear end, diff locks/cross locks, whitlock bullbar + big red LED spotlights/+ Great white 36led round LED's, icepack bunk cooler, Waeco fridge + microwave, 1600L diesel running tank capacity, 220L adblu tank capacity
2: New, build to order
3: 365000 dollarydoos
4: Uses around 1.8km per Litre of fuel, adblu around 4% of fuel consumption @ 76c/L 12 services per year (Free part of warranty and service standard plan, insurance + rego around 15,000 per year
5: No problems so far touch wood, does chew through steer tyres though due to the weight.Maybe all the motor fuels have gotten to your head, or you're just plain stupid, this is a thread about cars. It's not a dumb truck thread.
haha - legend! how do you find it when parking at the shops :P
What a rig. New superliners look great.
The stainless steel grill does look good, the size of them with the higher cab makes them look quite good. Just a shame the reliability on them isnt there, would of preferred a T909 or T609 they are just so much more expensive.
Honda MY15 Civic 2015
New, purchased it in late November 2015
20,500 Cash, I knew the accountant for the dealerships in the area and I got 7k off the car.
Using Unleaded 98, can get 800Kms Average per tank, fixed price servicing, 160 to 250 alternating, insurance for me is nearly 2k because I'm under 25 and green P Plater.
Handbrake feels loose compared to previous civics I've driven.
Definitely, has all the bells and whistles you need, key-less entry, push-button engine start, good fuel economy.- '03 Holden VY Exec II
- Second hand
- $3,700 cash
- Fill up: $70; Service: myself; $280 per year comprehensive
- None yet
- As a daily driver. But I wouldn't spend more than $5k on a Holden. I think they are pieces of crap.
2007 PM35 Nissan Stagea Autech Axis. (RWD VQ35DE running gear)
Used, imported from Japan with the help of a broker.
Paid a bit over 15k. (haven't added up all the receipts) Cash, no finance.
Getting about 9L/100kms mixed highway/town. Always use 98 octane. Easy and cheap to service as it is essentially a 350z wagon (with auto box) Insurance is also quite reasonable through Shannons which cover all the extras like tint, HKS coils, HDD audio system.
No problems yet touch wood! I am normally not a Nissan person but I love this car!
Would not hesitate to recommend one of these to someone who wants something slightly different to the norm, with reasonable performance, surprising comfort and great practicality! Unfortunately mine is reluctantly up for sale as I have recently moved and it isn't suitable for where I am now living. (heaps of wildlife and gravel roads)
How did you import? Any recommended people / companies?
Kristian or Troy from Iron Chef Imports. Imported a couple of cars through them now (Series II Legnum and the PM35, <3 my wagons) and they are great to deal with!
Sure, there are cheaper around but at least with the Iron Chef team you know exactly what you are getting as all the vehicles they deal with are personally inspected in Japan. And if I am paying good money to buy something sight unseen, I need to trust the guys on the ground..
Link to ad please? :)
I still haven't got one up yet… That how reluctant the sale is haha! Might be this weekend ;)
Which car do you drive? Vovlvo S60 Sedan
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Bought new after reading about the deals on new volvos late last year on OzBargain!
How much did you pay for the car? Novated lease, paid around $52K I think
Running costs? No Idea
Faults? All good so far
Will you recommend your car? Yes, great car, very comfortable and although i havent had to use it yet, apparently very safe!2009 Audi A4 (2 years ago)
110,000Km
$9500
Auction
No major issues to date.This actually really cheap
insanely cheap. I'm tempted to go buy one now.
ahly92, you mind letting us know what type of auction it is? The price is so cheap even now let alone 2 years ago.
VW Golf GTI MKV 2.0 TDI
Pre-owned bought from a dealer
$16k cash
Runs on ULP 98 fuels, CTP insurance costs about $1000 +
Had an issue with the turbo PCV valve which was causing a whistle like noise which wasn't too costly to fix.
Yes absolutely, German engineering at its best. Great acceleration and lovely control and even has launch control to get you off the line! All the buttons and gadgets are very handy. Sits very comfortably and even has a very generous boot size.Tdi uses ulp 98?!
What the….
That's the problem with keyboards having s and d next to each other? I hope….
My finger is on strict diet already…looks like it needs to extra gym sessions but yes it's TSI not diesel!
- 2015 Jeep Cherokee, Limited Diesel
- New from dealer
- $51000 finance
- $30 fuel $15 insurance $15 Servicing per week
- No Faults
- Absolutely, best car I have owned
Why a Cherokee over the Grand? Just curious, I'm thinking of getting the Grand just gotta test drive it and mull things over.
Grand a little bit too big for my needs, and I preferred the look of the new Cherokee
Be careful and make sure you get a good one, if you get a bad Jeep they are a pain in the ass. Definately go the Grand. Though the Trailhawk Cherokee is a great fun car, but light on space - good if you are single or without kids though.
Which car do you drive? 2015 Mazda 3 SP25 GT
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? New From Dealer
How much did you pay for the car? 31,500 Finance
Running costs? City 8 to 8.5 Highway 6-6.5 per 100. Great ocean road trip with 4 people and luggage and A/C returned 6.4 per 100
Faults? Any major problems? None yet. The road noise on a typical Australian tarmac is an issue.
Will you recommend your car? Yes but also look at other options. I am wondering in the road noise is an issue with other cars in the segment as well and how good or bad it is.
- 2015 Mazda 2 Auto Sedan
- New from dealer
- 15,990 cash
- Unsure at the moment, fuel costs varies ~$35
- No faults atm
- Torque a bit low, otherwise it's fine.
My wife has one of these, nice car only criticism is it hesitates a bit off the line but otherwise great.
Subaru, WRX, 2015 model, Turbo, AWD and Manual, love it !
Used to have the bug eye STi - great cars!
Gotta love the rexy's!
Me too, had 2001 WRX,bought brand new,kept for 12 years, sold it,bought Toyota 86 GT manual for 1 1/2 years, now had brand new 2015 WRX for almost 2 years now, love it :)
Subaru, RX, 2003
Pre-owned, Private,
6800, cash
$50 a week(300~350miles), Unleaded 95, service.. can't remember. and insurance. CTP was $880(I'm a young drive)
nothing Major, just had a wheel alignment.
Yes I would, I use it for camping, cruising and moving stuff.I honestly don't know what other car I want next. Forester GT or maybe a coupe… sigh* head hurts. Might get the next model instead.
had research on A3/S3, 2014 models, Subaru liberty maybe..Hard to decide.. because I'm thinking about the practical or the car and
sometimes luxury feel and then sometimes fast coupe feel.. LOL
My Impreza has special leather lining and sunroof. Feel like a coupe inside bar the roofless and as practical as it gets. :P
Mitsubishi Outlander 2015
34000 with satnav and extras
60L petrol 2.4 runs 800km
330 fixed servicing dealer
no problems
interior is outdated but will recomment- 11 Toyota Rukus Build3 with 66K on odometer in 2015 when I got it
- Instate Nissan dealer
- $18,000 + on road, cash
- I drive 90% in metro or city driving. Fuel consumption is not great. About 7-8km/litre, about $800 for comprehensive, I'm over 25. Service is standard
- No major fault, the 4 speed is just not smooth enough to my liking
- Not particularly great money for value. But for size of the car, it's very roomy and comfortable. 6 speed gear box will do wonders
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
1993 Toyota Camry Vienta V6
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Pre owned at the local car dealers
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
$2544 cash
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
Uni student on a budget lol I only put in $50 a week as there's travelling/joy ride costs plus $770 rego fees plus third party insurance $290 a year
Faults? Any major problems?
No cup holders!!! Otherwise works fine
Will you recommend your car?
I reckon anyone just wanting a good daily would benefit especially at the price it was sold to me. Everyone tells me it's very reliable but with 125k on the ODO I'm yet to find out ;)- Ford Territory 2004
- Bought 2 years old
- 26500 part financed
- Uses a lot of fuel, annual servicing up to around ~$700 now as it always needs something doing
- Nope - although it is serviced regularly which catches things before they cause a problem
- For sure, 12 years old and still drives better than most modern SUVs.
- 2015 Ford ranger
- New
- $56780 finance and cash
- Insurance $850
Service $250 every 15kkm - None so far
- Love it.
Honda Odyssey 2015 VTI 8 Seats-leather
Private Seller
33K ( 6 Months Old.. Had 7K on it )
Capped Servicing From Honda, 10-12 Kms per Litre for now
Nothing yet
Loving the car so far…very comfortable..my view..200% better than so called 7 seater SUV's like Nissan Path Finder, X-trail and Kluger in terms of space and fuel consumptionDefinitely recommend
Isn't the 8 seater in cloth only?
Was it changed to leather by a 3rd party?Looking to pick up one of the 7 seater leather mid year
Yes default is fabric
Private Seller from whom i bought got it changed when he bought it..
If you don't have any problems with shape being a van, i would recommend odyssey ..there is good amount of luggage space after the back seats are up
During my research of 7 seaters I came across quite a lot of posts mentioning how bad the transmission is, that it has been the same since they first came out and Honda haven't bothered fixing it (until a couple of years ago?). Generally fail after 100,00km's apparently and cost at least 2k to be replaced. One even had to have it replaced twice in 3 years. So I took it off my list.
https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=…
True?
Yes, i checked that before buying. Most of the reviews and issues found are vehicles before 2010-2012. Honda has improved engine after 2012. I haven't seen people complaining about transmission for vehicles manufactured after 2012.
- VW Golf R32 2009
- Pre-owned, private seller.
- $24k on road, cash
- $70-80 per tank. Pretty bad mileage (12L~/100km mixed) for a hatch, but makes up with the sound.
About $1k/year for insurance, service is around $500/year for minor and $1k/3years major. - No faults(knock on wood). The VR6 is pretty bullet proof, and the dsg for this model is problem free if you take care of it.
- Would recommend to enthusiasts, but a bit hesitant with everyday folks due to costs. Last of its kind, and sounds unique. A blast to drive on open roads and in tunnels. Interior is a bit dated(basically a top of the range MK5 GTI), but it has everything you need if you look for the right options(bluetooth, satnav, dual climate, sunroof etc.). Bit of a sleeper at times, but still turns heads if people know what they're looking at.
Beast of a car but hard to find any decent 2nd hand with low kms and without being trashed by previous owners :( New Golf R are just not the same
New Golf R are just not the same,
Apart from the glorious noise from the VR6, the new R smashes it in every other way.
what are the engine differences? vr6 vs ?? and why is the older one bullet-proof?
It's just a very proven engine. Brought to the VW line up in the 90s, it's been in pretty much everything you can think of from the VW family. Passat, Touareg, various golfs, Audi TTs, Cayenne etc. just to name a few. The TSI engines are still relatively new and is a lot more high tech, but that means there are more parts that need to be maintained. I've got nothing against the newer 4 banger turbos in the R and GTI, they're fantastic engines and they're super easy to tune/upgrade while still being efficient. But they lack the soul from more cylinders and bigger displacement, they're a whole different ball game in terms of feel. Each to their own I guess. However, if you're insane enough you can pop a turbo/supercharger kit on the VR6 and make stupid amounts of power.
The dsg in r32 is not problem free.
Mine was a lemon. Clunked shifting into 6th gear, sometimes it would take a few seconds to engage reverse gear accompanied with a very loud thud when it does. Had countless number of issues with my R32. Off the top of my head creaky suspension, creaks from doors when entering/exiting driveways, creaks from steering which I think turned out to be steering rack mount, weird noise when coming to a stop which turned out to be some cable rubbing against heat shield. There were more but this is 7 years ago and I don't remember every one but I remember going into the dealership every few weeks with warranty repair. Probably the worst car I have ever owned in terms of reliability
- MY '11-'14 Subaru WRX premium.
- Bought from dealer used.
- Dropped cash $30000.
- Insurance $1250 / year, 98 Oct fuel approx $50-60 per tank (11-12km/100L), Service everything else in the car myself around $200 to $1000 per year depending on what needs maintenance.
- No faults, though manual gearbox isn't really daily driver friendly.
- GRR GRR GRR BRAAAAP PSSSH BRAAAP PSSSSH BRAAAP PSSSHHHH (Yes)
+ve for the amusing boxer and bov sounds XD
reminding me my previous 02' STi - that exhaust + blow off valve makes up for all worries about costs!
LOL bloody moog
- 2003 Nissan Pulsar STL Sedan (Auto)
- Bought second hand, privately 4 years ago with 75,000kms, now has 150,000kms.
- $7000 cash
- Between $35 and $50 for a tank of fuel (depending on price), does 400km per tank. I pay about $450 a year for insurance and roughly $200 per service.
- Only major cash I've had to spend on it was replacing all the radiator hoses a year ago. All up (along with a service) it cost $1000 to fix. Other than that, I haven't had any problems with it.
- Yeah for sure, it's been a great reliable car.
2015 Audi A6
dealer demo
novated lease
All included in lease but around 900km /70lt tank
No problems
best car ever, literally drives itself aside on the highway. I'll probably upgrade to the new model every few years unless I go up to the a7.How much?
In a novated lease, the final cost of the car is determined at the point you end the lease at which time you pay the residual + gst. As a net comparison to what my previous car was costing me, right now I'm paying a couple hundred a month for the pleasure but taking into consideration tax savings and the average sell price of a 3 year old model, I should end in a net positive position. Eg - less than $0
Could you tell me the exact amount per month :P?
@GameChanger: the repayment on the lease dependent on your chosen lease term as well inclusions such as servicing, fuel, insurance, policy options such as early return etc…
You also have the option of pre-tax and ecm which can dramatically change your fbt liability and impact to your cash flow.
So any figure I give you wouldn't be representative of what it would cost you personally anyway….
Have 5 cars in total.
Jeep
4 holdensThe Jeep and malibu I will recommend for obvious and different reasons, the Astra im scared of as it hasn't got a horror story behind it at all its still flawless.
The vl commodore is my hobby car that I'm slowly doing up and I have inherited my late father in laws wagon that I don't know what to do with.All regoed all driveable all insured and all run on 98 octane Caltex fuel.
A rusting bomb. Goes alright though. Will hold on to it a few more years I think.
yeah why not. better to have an ugly but reliable car fully paid off than worrying about car repayments. most people dont even take a second glance at other peoples cars anyway.
- Kia Cerato S 2012 manual 6 Speed 2.0L
- New from Dealer. (Purchased April 2013) - 20 ks on odo
- 17.1k Cash
- Servicing every 15,000 340-440 at dealer, Fuel 91 octane, 8.2 km per 100 in city / highway mix (70/30). CTP $560, Rego, $244, GIO platinum comp insurance $800
- No faults or major probs
- Yes, 2.0L is reasonably punchy, looks great styling wise. Upgraded from cruddy nexen tyres to michellins handles well. Cheaper than my prior new car (Suzuki Swift S) Great car for us (3 adult and 2 kid household) - done 90,000 kms
- Toyota Camry Altise 2.5L 2012 - 23,000KM when bought.
- Pre-Owned from a dealer. Bought just prior to EOFY rush - Absolute bargain, perfect condition.
- $17,700. Cash.
- $40/wk fuel (very efficient), $1000/yr servicing, $1000/yr comprehensive.
- No faults, great car.
- Absolutely, never been happier with a car purchase.
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year Audi A4 S Line Plus Sedan 2016 1.8 TFSI non quattro
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Brand new from dealer
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? $55000 Partial Finance
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance 8L/100K (Suburban + City driving), 3 Year / 45000 Free Service (15K Intervals), 110/Month for insurance.
Faults? Any major problems? None
Will you recommend your car? Yes very much, It is a CVT though..some people do not like the initial lag but personally i have gotten used to it and i enjoy this semi autonomous car.
- Subaru Outback 2000
- Brought it off my parents when they upgraded 3.5 years ago for about $5000
- Does about 10L/100km mainly city driving with some country driving.
- Blown head gasket a year ago cost $2000 to be fixed considered buying a new car
- Great first car and slept in the back on a mattress many times. Great for camping and beach. But now I live in the city only just fits in the garage and feels a bit too big for my current needs.
- 2004 Nissan X-Trail
- Bought used from a dealer about 3 years ago.
- ~$7500 cash
- Gets about 9.3L/100km, servicing seems pretty cheap
- I had to replace the throttle body assembly not long after buying it (~ $600 i think) but no other faults.
- Yep, solid little car and very practical.
- 2004 Suzuki Ignis Sport. It's currently got 260, XXX kms on the clock and I have always drove it like I stole it.
- Second hand from Dealer
- Paid $11500 cash 6 years ago (a good one would be around $4000-$5000 these days)
- 6.5l/100kms 98Ron only, Servicing around $500 average, insurance is $550 this year
- I blew the gasket when it overheated as the coolant slowly leaked that cost $2500 to replace :( Unfortunately the car does not come with a thermostat only a red 'the engine is stuffed' light (it has an aftermarket one now though). Chalked it up to experience, the car was so reliable I rarely checked anything so own fault. Parts on this car last for ages, though can be difficult to replace as it's somewhat rare nowadays. Aircon compressor blew last year, and cost $1000 to fix. It's a rough ride as the suspension is highly tuned and the steering is rubbery "rally" which takes some getting used to. Steering position may be cramped for some. Really needs a 6th gear as it revs hard. But I absolutely love the feel.
- Cheap, hell fun to drive, head turner, heaps of space for a small car, recaro seats, very reliable, plenty of pickup and won the Junior World Rally back in 2005. So hell yes I'd buy again, in fact I'm struggling to find anything similar that would replace it. A BMW would be a lot more refined but nowhere near as fun to drive. I read about someone who used to keep up with a Nissan 180x around a racetrack with their Ignis. It has the most awesome brakes of any car I've ever owned, stops on a dime. Saved my life at least 10 times since I owned it. Did I mention it's fun to drive?
- 1995 Honda Accord
- Private seller. Had 140,000km on it.
- $7500 cash
- Get around 500km to a tank around town, 600 with highway driving. Insurance cheap, serviced myself every 10,000km for about $150 in parts.
- I have owned the car for 13 years, now has 385,000km on the clock. Have replaced the front CV joints, ignition barrel died. Both were very cheap to fix. Other than that, zero problems at all. Done many long distance trips in it, does not get driven softly, never broken down.
- Absolutely.
- 2014 Mazda 3 BM Hatchback Maxx Automatic
- New, dealer
- 27k, partially financed
- $50-60 full tank, I always get 800kms on a tank, currently getting 6.1 L/100km, servicing is ~$270-300 alternating every 10k kilometres, Insurance $750 (I'm 23), Tires replaced at 50k with bridgestone 4 for 3 deal ;)
- I've done 50k already and no known problems yet
- hell yes.
- MY14 Mitsubishi Lancer (2013)
- New from dealer
- 16,500 bank cheque
- 51l gets 700km, servicing fixed at $250 for 5 years, insurance $265ish through AAMI
- Steering wheel controls stopped working a month into ownership and took 3 days to replace despite being a "common known issue", cruise control buttons starting to wear through, not a fault really, but tyres had to be replace at 50k… I think that's probably too soon
- Yes, but not brand new for cost reasons
Ford Fairmont ghia - 1986
Purchased in 5th march 1994. Cost me $10500 back then…
Still going - 2nd owner 370000 KMS so Far
Bulletproof.
Cheap for insurance - 3rd party Fire & Theft.
No issues apart from usual wear & tear like tyres etc.
22 years and still going strong…I put it on gas when I got it - Around $50 fills her up with gas. still run the petrol once in awhile..
car 1
1.Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 9 2006
2.Second hand
3.$30000 cash.
4.$60/70 tank, $1000 a year on service, insurance $2000
5.very reliable car even when modified, plenty of parts available cheap and easy to find.
6.amazing car to drive and own - used on weekends onlycar 2
1. 2002 Audi a3 turbo
2. second hand
3. $5000 cash
4. $50 tank, 450 k's per tank, $200-300 on service cost, insurance $400 third party
5. built very solid, engine wise is great and plenty of power for only a 1.8L
6. my daily drive car, never broken down!Subaru WRX
New from dealer
$38,500 No Finance
I dont drive that much during the week, fill up once every 4-5weeks 450km $60-70. Servicing once every 6 months around $300 per service (some services will be more going forward). Full comp insurance $980/year with $650 excess.
Alarm played up once (Brent Alarm) but hasnt happened since, probably why Subaru removed the Alarm and its now only an option on the MY16 models.
Yes, fun and practicable car to drive.Ford falcon xr6 ecolpi
$27000
Bought from dealer with 9000 on the clock previously owned by ford.
Financed on 9% at 19 yrs old
50 thou k's and faultless so far
Get about 450km from full tank of log costing about $40 depending on price at the time. All city driving gets about 800 to a tank on highwayCar
1. Holden VT Commodore 2000 Olympic Edition (3.6l ecotec)
2. Used - private sale - purchased in 2015 with 230k kms
3. $1800 cash - Advertised at $2300 then dropped to $2000 (the guys wife scowled at me when she heard the price - "you get bargain" she muttered)
4. One reason I went with this car is that I wanted to do most of the servicing myself. Youtube videos guide me through pretty much anything, and you can find just about any part cheaply via ebay,gumtree or wreckers. Commute vehicle used for school runs and work. Short trips mostly so fuel economy is average. Probably 12-13L per 100. Insurance for 3rd party only was $224 with Wooolies and I recd a $100 giftcard. Oil changed once so far (I've only done 4500kms)
5. Nothing major - I have replaced water pump $40 (common) rear seat belt ($50) and the steering rack boots $16. The headlining is a bit saggy, so will fix that soon too!.
6. Absolutely. One of the cheaper cars to keep on the road. Suits me perfect, great for an everyday driver.Easy to fix with enough room for 5 if required.Scoot
1. Kymco Super 8 125cc scooter 2011
2. Used - private sale - purchased 2013 with 10.5k kms
3. $1400 cash - Advertised at $1700
4. $5-6 to fill tank - service myself (oil and trans oil) Rear tyre $80 (Rego $124 CTP $112)
5. Nothing
6. Cant recommend highly enough. Basically the cheapest thing on the road. If you live in Sydney - get a scooter. Does everything well - carries your shopping (I have rear carrier as well) beats the traffic, use the bus lane, free city parking, cheap tolls,1) Toyota Prius 2007
2) pre-owned, private seller
3) 11K cash 1.5 years ago
4) fuel $40 per 950km, service approx $400 per year, comprehensive insurance $370 per year
5) none so far
6) ooh wee
Hundai veloster+ 2014 (waited 2 years to save money and then purchased it from the same showroom where i seen it first)
1.Ford Focus Ambiente, Hatchback, 2013 model
2.Second hand with 23,000kms done. Bought in early January 2015.
3.$13,250 cash (-$3500 worth of insurance money thanks to a Brisbane Hailstorm… RIP 2001 Ford Laser)
4. Planned poorly and paid $841 with RACQ for first year of insurance (Comprehensive - Insured for fixed value of 17000), now paying $454.50 through NRMA (Comprehensive - Insured for fixed value of 17860). Fuel consumption is not fantastic for the size of the car, i do a fair bit of stop start city driving which is not good for this though. I get about 550kms per tank, sometimes less, sometimes far more (if driving on the highway etc). Have not paid for a service yet given Fords servicing policy up to 60,000kms. RACQ roadside assistance is also included as part of Fords servicing policy.
5.No major issues yet, the car comes with 'Hill start assist' which can be slightly annoying on occasion when it tries to 'assist' if you are used to traditional hill starts - but i imagine others would not be bothered by this.
6.Given my experience so far, i would definitely recommend this car.
- VW bora 2003
- private seller
- $5000 cash in late 2013.
- highway 8.5l/100km, metro 9l/100km, city 11l/100km. Service once a year, regular service is under $300, but have done a few major services as I plan to keep this car for a few more years. Probably 10-20% more expensive on servicing costs than japanese brands.
- A few common problems on this model, mainly electrics, but all easy fixes, and any euro-specialising mechanic will be aware of them already and be looking out for them. Nothing costly (<$300), and this model has a reliable drive chain (gearbox, engine).
- Definitely. Its a VW golf with a bigger sedan boot and a different badge on the back. People not very aware of it, and the trim is better than the equivalent golf for a lower price. But because its actually the same as a golf parts are easy to come by. Good if you want a cheap car, with reasonable running costs, and don't mind an older vehicle. Has side airbags.
Which car do you drive? Toyota Corolla 1996 hatchback
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Pre-owned
Dealer or private seller? Private
How much did you pay for the car? $700 in 2012
Finance or cash? Cash
Running costs? 6.8L/100km urban, city 7.5L/100km, servicing I do myself as it is my toy and daily :), I've replaced parts on my car but they weren't broken, just put better parts in. I service myself too, I did a major full service when I bought the car around $200. I replace with premium racing(I know it's not necessary, but I get better fuel economy, about 0.6L/100km) oil twice a year, so $120 a year. Insurance is 20 bucks a month, 3Rd party only.
Faults? None.
Any major problems? Road noise. Too slow (lucky it's manual). Strong winds makes me feel unsafe.
Will you recommend your car? Yeah. Corolla boring but reliable. Easy to drive too.
Wowsers! That's a great deal if it's got you from a to b for 4 years.
- 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
- Leased through work
- $600 a month includes servicing, repairs, rego & insurance. Outright cost would be around $50k
- 45L tank which gets me 550km on fuel alone. Being a hybrid, it can operate on pure electric too, even on an empty fuel tank (Something I believe the Prius can't do) which gets me 60km. On a week of just school runs and drives to work, I never use fuel. Car is charged in my off-peak
- I've noticed a degradation of battery in the last 8 months I've had it. Mitsubishi guarantees the battery holding a charge above a certain number over 2 years though
- Absolutely. It's beautiful to drive. Always turns heads too when people can't hear a thing in electric mode.
Come on man, no one in the world paid $50k for an Outlander PHEV. You can pick up demos for high $30k and 0km examples in the mid to low 40s for the Aspire (top of the range) model.
The Prius can run on the electric battery whenever, as long as it has some charge. You have to hit the sweet spot on the accelerator pedal though (e.g. 65km/h is one of them for me). Wouldn't have anywhere near as much battery capacity as the PHEV though.
Rented this car in the UK last year over 3 weeks. It was a dream to buy. Great fuel economy for its size, and excellent features. The silence was eerie at the start but once I got used to it, the expression on people's faces, golden.
- 2005 Mitsubishi 380 GT
- Bought second-hand privately
- $15k cash in 2012 - paid a premium but it was what I wanted (Silver, sunroof, one owner, low kms)
- Servicing is cheap. Rego and insurance is as you'd expect. It is thirsty, but considering it's power, reliability, and low initial purchase price the fuel consumption doesn't bother me much.
- Bought in 2012 with 69,000km. It's just ticked over 155,000km. In that time a window regulator went (common problem), a CV boot came loose, and the air-con resistor went. I'm also a fusspot and tend to replace things whenever they're marginal, so it's not like I'm omitting items that should have been attended to. So for the age/kilometres I'm very happy.
- Hell yes. Despite the age it's a very refined car to drive. Considering these models go for about $6-8k second-hand they are awesome buying and I'd recommend one in a heart beat.
Got a 2005 380DB with 37000kms for the wife in 2009 from a dealer, with 2 years new-car warranty left, for $13k (thanks GFC!). Yes, 380's are awesome value, but the rear window regulators will die (replaced 2). Very solid comfortable drive. Awesome value second-hand, seriously underrated.
Yes, when my rear right window regular went I replaced the rear left whilst it was at the dealer because I figured it was a matter of time!
When our first one went, the mechanic asked the supplier of the part whether it was a common problem. The response was "how many of these parts do you want?" (implying he had a huge amount of stock because this part fails all the time).
- No Car - Super Bike - Kawasaki Ninja ZX10R ABS
- Bought brand new from dealer
- Cash at $16,600 - Usual price is 19-23k dependent on model
- Fuel is around $15 for about 200-250km dependent on "spirited" riding
- Nothing - possibly one of the most reliable manufacturers
- In a heartbeat
Err. No, nobody pays 19-23k for a ZX10R. 16k is pretty much the usual price for them despite the inflated RRP. I had one for 2 years and paid 12,500 for one with only 5,000km
I also had absolutely no issue with it. Very nice bike indeed.
You obviously aren't up with the latest model then - If you buy an earlier generation you will get one for 16-17k but the Gen 5 they're 21.5-23k
Uh no. That's irrelevant. I bought my gen 4 in 2013 so that was the latest model at the time. Not to mention that gen 4 and gen 5 look virtually identical.
@djc926: I don't see how this makes me wrong in what I stated - I wasn't talking about how much YOU paid. If you were to set out and buy one now that's the cost. That's all I was saying
- Hyundai i30 wagon, 2010 model.
- Bought second-hand at auction at Manheim in 2012 with 105K kms on the clock: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/122956#comment-1689568
- Paid $11,300, by bank cheque.
- Service + pink slip: ~$600 per year ; Fuel: ~$40 for a full tank of unleaded, gets me around 390 KMs, maybe fill up every 2 or 3 weeks? Comprehensive Coles insurance: $520 per year. Total of all car-related costs (i.e. add rego [$250?], add CTP green slip [$500?] + service + fuel + comprehensive insurance + parking fees [$80?]) is around ~ $2600 total per year.
- In past 3.5 years: Air conditioning stopped working, cost $600 to fix [this is the only fault that annoyed me, as it should have been fixed under warranty by the dealer service centre, yet they repeatedly failed to find the root problem, and would just regas as a band-aid fix, and then claimed the bolts had been changed to avoid having to really fix it, whereas a specialist A/C repairer had it found and fixed in 6 hours, and told me it was a common fault with the A/C hoses in these models, so everything the dealer had said was B.S.]. All tyres were low in 2015 and needed replacing: $400. Battery replaced in 2014: ~$160. Had 2 factory recalls [one done, and one pending whilst parts on back-order from Korea], both fixed/to be fixed at no cost to me, even after 5 year warranty period has expired. Everything else is completely standard wear & tear stuff.
- Yes, if I could go back in time, I would buy it again. It's got good safety features, it's nicer than my old car, can move more stuff, yet takes up less space and uses uses a bit less fuel. Only thing I would change is that I did 2 services at a dealer service centre - Suttons City Hyundai - they were expensive yet very unimpressive (with the A/C problem, and a secondary problem with a warning light that later turned out to be one of the factory recall issues). Instead I would have just gone to a decent non-dealer mechanic from the start (which is what I did after the first 2 unimpressive services), and only gone to the dealer for recalls (i.e. refuse to spend a single penny at the dealer service centre).
Private
1.2000 Toyota Prado
2.Bought new from Dealer
3.50K
4.$150 fuel gives 800km, service charge is not too expensive
5.No fault at all
6.Will recommend to anyone who wants a family car and some offroad fun, safe and reliableCompany
1.2005 Honda Accord Euro
2.Bought new from Dealer
3.42K
4.$60 fuel gives 500km, service charge is more expensive than toyota
5.No fault at all
6.Will recommend to anyone who wants a sedan with some luxery, vtec is good and reliable1) 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
2) 2016 compliance/2014 build from dealer.
3) $33990 D/A.
4) Don't know yet. Still on first tank. Will be a while. 45 litres capacity..
5) What issues??…. (it's a Mitsi..!!)
6) Would recommend for sure…Looks great, and has loads of boot space, but unfortunately it's only 5 seats (due to the electric batteries taking up the space where the rear row would have been).
- Hyundai Getz 2003, 4dr, manual 1.3ltr
- new
- about 13k cash
- very cheap, 400kms one tank for around $45 - $50
- window winder plastic thingy comes off occasionally, gear stick glue failed, superglue fixed. 92,000kms, so still pretty low, no mechanical issues at all
- Yes provided you are 1 person the 4 harnessed children under the bonnet will get you where you're going (recommend for city living, not traveling more than half an hour at a time)
Which car do you drive? VW Caddy 2015 1.6TDI
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? New
How much did you pay for the car? $0, thanks work
Running costs? $0, thanks work
Faults? Nup
Will you recommend your car? Not mine, question was what car do you drive. Great for a worker who doesn't need a ute, excellent handling for a van, great fuel economy. Quite noisy due to big open area in the back when unladen (good when loaded though)Daily:
2010 Holden Barina 1.6ltr manual.
$13k new financed.
Cheap as chips & low maint etc.
Not super frugal.Weekend family car:
2011 XR6 Turbo 6spd Auto
$36k 4000km ex dealer manager car
Supreme power 0-100 5.2 seconds stock.
11ltr comb avg, 7.9hwy if cruisy.
70k km now and no major faults :-)
Insurance ~$500
Annual service $270 with racv roadside assistance included.Feels quicker than Holden SS 2016.
But look at getting one in a wagon before they vaporize.XR6 turbo is a beast of car.
Feels quicker than Holden SS 2016
Beware, Holden fanboy's incoming.
- VW MK7 Golf GTI Man 2015
- New
- 46.5k Cash
- Fuel $60 a week, ~6.7L/100km, Servicing is capped @ 310, 425 , 1250 (every 15k/1yr) off the top of my head. Insurance (u25) is 1k pa.
- Slight issue with sunroof wasn't closing, fixed under warrenty. 2nd gear is a b!#$% and jitters in, but aint going to mention it untill i need a new clutch lol, purely because to get to the gearbox is a nightmare and you practically pull the whole care apart in which it wouldnt go together the same imo. My old golf also had a couple of DSG issues (mk7 2013 tdi)….
- 100%, tech is up there and performance. downside is the issues….. 0% if youre looking to get one out of warranty. next car will likely be awd (mk9 golf r, focus rs, a class merc, wrx)
- Honda HRV 2015 Limited Edition
- Brand new from dealer
- $32.5 k cash
- $35-40 each refuel,$1k-ish insurance, haven't had my first proper service yet but I think it'll be around $200 at Honda
- Still fairly new so nothing so far
- Absolutely! Not a performance maniac, just wanted something that feels comfortable and spacious but also not too heavy on fuel and this car fits my needs perfectly. The LE leather seats gives the interior a premium feel, making each ride a real comfy experience. All in all very happy with it so far.
Just picked up a car I purchased last week. After owning 3x used cars purchased with over 100k I thought before I am 30 I want a new car.
- 2015 Mazda 3 Maxx Sedan Auto
- Demo - 500kms on the clock
- $22,000 finance
- Hopefully bugger all
- Too early to say
- Love it so far.
- Which car do you drive? 2013 Honda Jazz
- Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Bought new from dealer.
- How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Approx $17.5k. Paid cash.
- Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance. I don't drive a huge amount (catch train to/from work and only use car on the weekends mostly), car costs about $45 a tank for fuel and that lasts me close to a month. Servicing and insurance costs are reasonable for the size/value of the car.
- Faults? Any major problems? So far so good. Have only had regular routine services. Everything runs correctly, no issues.
- Will you recommend your car? Yes, it's a bit gutless but compensates by being surprisingly spacious and well equipped compared to it's main competitors.
- VW Golf GTI Performance 2015
- Dealer Demo around 8000kms though.
- $43,000 driveaway - financed at 3.99% over 4 years.
- Capped priced servicing, premium petrol which can be expensive depending how hard it's driven. Insurance is surprisingly affordable.
- No problems so far.
- Highly recommended!
You have to pay 225 per week other than insurance, ctp, rego, roadsideassist .
Can you tell me how much your insurance comes to ? If not specifics then is it lower for new cars than older ones ?Great looking car! I love the squared DRL's.
- Toyota Land Cruiser Dual Cab 2016 GXL
- Brought New
- $70,000 financed at 4.5% over 5 years
- Cap price servicing, $800 insurance $800 rego and about $150 a month fuel
- None as of yet.
- Yes i would.
Love that car - been watching a few YouTube videos of people with 70series dual cabs - they look fun to drive. I think i'll wait for the MY17 with all the safety and emissions updates - Although what I am really hoping for is the twin turbo V8 and 6 speeed gearbox from 200 series.
I have been waiting for a couple years before i decided to get it, I had a 2006 factory turbo single cab before then it got written off and just been using works cars for a while.
When they announced the updates going to get a DPF i decided to buy as you can't legally put a bigger exhaust on it because of the emmissions filter on the exhaust.are you going to get the full works? Bar, lift, ECU etc? Would love to see the beast / progress.
Got a factory alloy bar at the moment, Tray will be finished off sunday night if we have a good run.
Lift going in next week as i did it for a GVM upgrade on it.
Then exhaust and stuff will be after
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
Toyota Prado GLX, 1996Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Private sellerHow much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
$10k, cash (back in 2009)Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
It's LPG, about $14/100km. Service is DIY. $220 3rd party insuranceFaults? Any major problems?
NoneWill you recommend your car?
Absolutely. With LPG it's cheap to run
It's an 8-seater. Great for camping. Goes anywhere
I can move house with it
I can pick up free fridge, couch, tables etc. from the kerbWhich car do you drive? Ford Falcoln Forte Classic 1999 Model
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Second hand from a private seller. It had done about 130000kms and bought it in 2008
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? $3800 cash
Running costs? Fuel about 600$/year , Service 180$/year, Insurance 900$/year, CTP650$/year, Roadside Assist 180$/year, Rego350$/year and 1200$ annually for repair.
Faults? Any major problems? It is giving me about 1200 to 1800$ repair every year. Many things have been replaced and it is generally high maintenance but low enough for me to not buy another new car or a second whose repairs would be unpredictable (i know very little about cars).
Will you recommend your car? No because it is an old model and things seem to be falling apart one by one. The fuel efficiency is really bad because it has a 4.0 engine but I dont need to use the car a lot so it is ok.
Your suggestions are welcome. I have very little knowledge on this issue.
Yeah the late 90s early 2000s Falcons are notoriously expensive to run out of warranty, they practically fall apart. A mate had one which had just shy of 100,000kms and the roof lining sagged, the shocks were shot, several injectors needed replacing, brakes needed major work and fuel efficiency was poor. Most cars, even 10 year old cars don't require $1000s in repairs each year. If you are paying that kind of $$$ it would be cheaper to buy a new car with capped price servicing.
- BMW M135, manual, 2013 with racechip ultimate
- Second hand 5000km on clock, private
- $59k cash
- Servicing: $400 every 18 months of so, fuel: 550km per tank and I give it some every drive, but that's on central coast nsw so less start stop. Insurance: 1200/year, excess $700 with shannons due to racechip
- Zero problems
- Best car ever, second 1 series for me, very reliable, faster than 997 911 s pack porsche (on dry roads). Every moment in car is a joy, only issue is traction in the wet as I am a lead foot and don't have LSD yet.
2nd car
1. Mitsubishi Pajero NX Exceed 2014
2. Second hand 26k on the clock, private
3. $46k cash
4. Servicing: new to this car, $800 under fixed price scheme which I understand is both expensive and this was a higher cost service. Next job to find a reputable mitsubishi mechanic
5. Zero problems but only 5 weeks into ownership
6. Very happy, feels bullet proof, much more comfortable to drive than the BMW which is very firm ride, but bought for a different purpose and speed wasn't a factorM235i here, agree that the car is a joy to drive. JB4 instead.
Bad thing about the car is that once the mod bug hits there's no return (over $15k and counting).nice what was after the JB4?
ANy decent prices on LSD?
Car #1
1: Hyundai Santa Fe 2015
2: Dealer new
3: Novated Lease, Car was $51k w. extras
4: Packaged with lease
5: No issues yet!
6: Yes! This is a great mid-size SUV.Car #2
1: Honda Accord Euro 2008 w. ~50,000kms on clock. puchased 2014
2: Used, Dealer
3: Financed. Purchased for $19K
4: $70 pw @ 650k per tank (U95+), $700 insurance, ~$500 3x services per year
5: That Honda air-bag recall (still need to book it :O) otherwise none.
6: Awesome luxury car with super comfy seats. Driving and comfort feels better than santa fe IMO2012 Hyundai Elantra Sedan.
Bought 2 months back, paid $13,500 cash with 28k on the clock.
Pvt seller.
$35-38 to fill tank, drives ~540 kms.
Insurance is $800/year with AAMI.
Great looking car, but drivers seat is bit cramped. My previous car was a 2007 Élantra, which had a much spacious drivers seat.
Great car to have/drive if you are not very tall.Car #1
1: Lancer EVO X GSR SST 2008
2: Dealer new
3: Cash - $71000 (good value back then but looks crazy now considering what you can get for that price nowadays - this was done just after the GFC with the government new car incentive which roughly amounts to 25% off)
4: 12 L/100km around town. Can get 8s on highway but on one 5 lap session at QR saw computer read out of 51 L/100km's :-)))
5: Had a cracked front disc rotor on the track but this was probably my fault for not warming up properly. It was a Brembo disc so not a fault of Mitsu. Gave me a chance to replace it with DBAs for $400 anyway (super easy to DIY). Insurance $800-1000/yr (rating one > 25 yrs old, unmodified). Also had a very unusual AYC pump hydraulic leak which puzzled the dealers, and was replaced under warranty for no cost. Servicing so far averaged $200-400/yr (at independents). Front brake pads done recently for $250.00 with Ferodo 2500s (can get cheaper pads but why compromise on its performance which the car was engineered for).
Otherwise completely rock solid and reliable despite the numerous track days. It is now 6-7 yrs old, driven daily to work and is still on its initial battery!!! No rattles.
6: Loved it and would recommend (new at the moment is probably difficult as its competitors are better in comparison write ups - though this will give you ammunition to bargain the price down to ridiculous levels) if you want a reliable yet reasonably comfortable daily but trackable car. You will need to defend its interior from german car drivers however as it is somewhat low rent. However once you get it on the track, feel the turn in and chuckable AWD drifts, you couldn't care less if there is no soft touch plastic on the dash :-) I do wish for more kWs as it is a heaviish kind of car and it's a bit sad seeing AMGs run away from you on the long QR straights (though catch up through the corners) but won't tune it as I want to keep the reliability for daily work use (it's out of warranty now).Car #2
1: Kia Sorento XM 2012 GLi
2: New
3: Cash. 48500 with extras - tow pack, side steps etc…
4: 9-12 L/100km (depends on if it's me or my mrs driving). On HWY can get low 6's/100km. Insurance approx $600. Avr service $350 (just did the 4 yr for $550 however)
5: I decided in 2012 to put faith in Korean cars and it has not gone wrong. Only issue at the moment is a slight rattle in the left door and now the engine has shown a few oil drops on the garage floor which I was told due to a small seal leak, which I will get looked at under its 5 yr warranty.
6: There's a reason why this car has been on top of Australia's Best Car list in its segment for a couple of years in a row back in 2012. It handles well, good power in the engine and nice gearbox, quiet on highway and long distance trips and I am sure will be reliable even after its 5 yr warranty runs out. Highly recommended, with the new Sorento and Santa Fe being even better.1999 Mitsubishi FTO GX Aero
Private
$1050
$650 3rd party (on Ps), $60ish on fuel every 3 weeks, all self serviced, maybe $50/month in the long run?
The car was dirt cheap due to an accident and them using body filler incorrectly, cost me about $800 to fix and 3 weekends.
Yes, great sporty car for a P-plater and they are getting real cheap.The only gripe I have is it's FWD. Nonetheless its a decent looking car.
Yeah, FWD sucks, but when you can't even drive with a turbo it goes alright. For the price they are at now they're awesome, unfortunately most are trashed though… They seem to attract a certain kind of person.
2015 Audi Q5 2.0TDI
Bought new from dealer.
Approx $65k. Novated Lease
75L tank, 800+KM city driving. $1800 but that includes lease payments (typically < $1200 for non lease) Servicing is around $750/yr but I am on 3 yr free servicing corporate plan
No issues so far (involved in diesel scandal, but voluntary recall not detailed yet) Multimedia system dated as it was released 5yrs+.
Yes, decent power for size, i've driven the 3.0TDI aswell and besides that initial burst of speed, is pretty much the same. last of the german manufactured Q5. next model will be made in mexico.I couldn't drop $65k knowing a car has plastic seats.
1.2004 Toyota Camry Grande MCV36R (full option with Sat Nav & leather inerior)
2. pre-owned private seller
3. $9500 in 2011 with 120000km on odometer.
4. 12L/100km on computer /$60 ~$90 on fuel + $600 rego a year + $130 new battery $600 for newsets of front and rear brake rotor and pads. + 1000 for timing belt +water pump +major service)etc..etc.
5.Age is getting to the 10 year + car. Door handles (inside) breaks (easy fix replacement) and window controller is having contact issue not making connections. Slow leak on the power steering column but can manage with refill. other than that all working fine.
6.Yes, young family. very easy to keep and parts are cheap. I do all my DIY for oil change and brakes. yes I would recommend this car.Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
Toyota Camry 1988Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Pre-owned, dealer (92,000 km on clock, legit- log book checks out)How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
AUD$1,600, cashRunning costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
7L/100km, Insurance $200/annumFaults? Any major problems?
in 3 years 1 issue costing AUD$200Will you recommend your car?
Great car. Solid, reliable, if you can get over it being 'old'.- Honda Accord Euro 2006
- Deceased estate through Lawyer with only 60,000km
- $9000 cash (2 years ago)
- ~9L/100km. Rego ~$600/yr in WA and comprehensive insurance ~$500/yr
- Only thing that's gone wrong in 2 years is the alternator died a few months ago.
- Yes, smooth to ride, limited problems so far and looks more expensive than it is.
- 2003 Toyota Corolla Sportivo
- New from dealer
- $34,000 cash
- 8.5L/100KM, Insurance $1000-$1200
- Water pump replaced, radiator replaced, timing cover seal replaced due to small oil leak. I think starter motor is on its way out. But otherwise engine is still going strong with about 115K on it.
- Yes. Seems popular amongst P plate drivers. Downsides is that the car handles like a boat straight from factory, so needs some suspension upgrades to improve the handling. Engine needs to revved beyond 6200rpm to get it to come alive.
1.Hyundai 2004 elantra
2.Second hand
3.$4500 purchased around 2 and half year ago~ 99800km.
4.just paid
5.just service, alternator dead at 140000km this year after 12 years use, reasonable. replaced a new one at ultratunr for $300
6.absolutely recommended , never had other issue, great on fuel for a old car……8-9L/100k 2.0 auto 4 cyl easy to maintainoh i do replaced radiator last year, a bit leaking around cap, didn't effect driving, find out during a regular service because the mechanic guy noticed some white marks around my radiator cap, it turns out not the cap problem but the radiator, so changed a new one with 2 years warranty for just 150…..amazing cheap to replace parts……
1.Hyundai i30, 2008, CRDI SX
2.Pre-owned, private seller
3.$10,000 cash
4. Around 6L/100km mixed driving, I can get lower on long trips - best I had was 3.9L/100km for a 1000km trip. I can't remember rego, $880 for comprehensive with NRMA.
5. Master clutch cylinder failed, cost about $400 to fix including labor.
6. Yes. Plenty of power for the size, amazing rolling acceleration.- Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
2004 Nissan Cube Cubic (7 seater) Autech Rider edition (body kit, alloys, etc.) - Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Dealer who imported it (Down Under Auto's - W.A.) - How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
Cash. $10,500. - Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
$40 to fill the tank (it's got a small 45l tank). 7.5l/100km. Insurance through Shannons (W.A) for about $500 a year (garaged etc.). Servicing is the same as a Nissan Micra ('cos that's what the engine is from). - Faults? Any major problems?
Not for me, though I hear the door locking actuators fail. - Will you recommend your car?
Absolutely. It's got a large amount of space in the back when you lay down the back row, and a HUGE amount of space if you lay down the centre row (it goes totally flat), especially due to the square design. The 7 seater has about 16cm more length. It's also the most unique and funky design on the road. Toyota has tried to copy it with the Rukus. Kia tried to copy it with the Soul. Personally I find the BZ11 style nicer than the more rounded BZ12 (more recent) style. Though if you could get a BZ11 with the 1.5 Tiida engine I would prefer that. The Rider version with the body kit/alloys etc. is much nicer than the standard (easy way to spot a Rider is that it has no Nissan badge at the front). I would not buy this car if I had to drive up a steep hill too often, as even with overdrive off (which lowers the gear ratio for hills). Mine is for sale btw as I have 4 kids (which is ok) but they have schoolbags (not so good). Getting an Elgrand E51.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/thornlie/cars-vans-utes/7-sea…
- Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
- Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
2008 Toyota Prius - Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Dealer, used (at 3 yrs old) - How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
$15k in 2011. Finance (RAC). - Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
LOL. Hardly anything. 4.5l/100km (so $60 per 1000km). Insurance is cheap. Servicing is cheap (1.6l engine iirc). - Faults? Any major problems?
- 12V Battery… it's better to have a Prius compatible one. Otherwise after a couple of years your dash will go crazy. No other faults at all.
6. Will you recommend your car?
Absolutely. Not a funky design like the Nissan Cube, but I like the rear at least (the rest is boring, but not ugly like some (many) think :) ). The hybrid battery has no issue at all, and Toyota keep extending the warranty on it (10 yrs now I think). The First Prius (the sedan shape) had a different hybrid battery setup and wasn't very reliable. This car will easily go over 2 million km's with just normal servicing. They've done that already elsewhere. Would I buy a 600km Prius… absolutely (after the typical auto inspection for $150 of course to uncover anything bad). Plenty of room in the boot (as it's a hatchback). Absolutely love this car for it's practicality and fuel saving.
lol
- Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
- Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
2003 Nissan Elgrand E51 Highway Star - Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Imported via J-Spec, direct from Japanese Auction - How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
About $15k all-up (minus insurance): $1100 to Jspec; $4500 for the car (about $2500) and FOB (transport/paperwork to port); $3300 to the shipping agent (for shipping, transport etc. to Fremantle), $3850 for the Compliance shop (yeah, I know it's about $2k over east…. they have a monopoly here), plus other bits and pieces (e.g. new tyres) on top. - Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
14l/100km…. not going to drive it too much :) We needed a 7/8 seater due to the 4 kids and their schoolbags etc. Insurance will be about $600 via Shannon's W.A. - Faults? Any major problems?
Apart from it not having been inspected correctly in Japan (came with cig burn and stinks of smoke), nothing yet as we haven't picked it up (will get it in a week or 2). I understand the rear cats need to be removed to protect the engine (apparently the VQ35DE V6 engine (same as in Nissan 350Z) has an issue where the front cats (there are two) disintegrate and clog up the back cats, leading to the engine overheating and exploding (well, not exploding, but totally stuffing it up anyway). - Will you recommend your car?
Too early to tell. I'd definitely have it on the list for people movers. It's brilliant to drive, but yeah it's thirsty. Many models come with rear monitor (factory) that flips down, automatic sliding doors etc. etc. It's a luxury people mover. Looks cool. We had Delica's before the Prius and loved them too, and they are a similar size to this. If you buy one at a dealer here in Aus, be aware that 80% have had their odometer wound back, so make sure you get it properly checked (compare auction papers to Shaken (mileage at last Jap MOT equivalent, happens every 2 years) as they can con you with the Shaken). If I had the choice again I'd still import, but use either Peter Grice, or Iron Chef Imports.
- Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
1 2015 Mazda 3 SP25
2 New
3 29k drive away with Tint, Opticoat, Interior Protection, Floor Mats, Rear Window Shades
4 average combined ~7l/100km, $300/$330 alternating capped price service 6 months/10,000km, ~$600 comprehensive insurance
5 None so far
6 Absolutely, never been happier with a car, still puts a smile on my face after 6 months.Purchased New Mazda 3 Sports / 2013 for $38K in Cash
9.1L/100KM , ~$120-300 for service/year, ~$380 comprehensive insurance (Insurance value of $34K now)
Definitely recommended!
Which car do you drive? Mazda3 SP25 (luxury sport model), 2009
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Private
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Finance. $17, 000
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance Insurance around 1k, fuel quite cheap. Maybe 60 a fortnight, if that.
Faults? Any major problems? Not even a scratch.
Will you recommend your car? Absolutely.- MY14 VW Golf Mk7 (90TSI Comfortline)
- Bought new from a dealer in October 2013
- Financed the ~$20k changeover price after trading in my 2005 MkV Golf.
- It's about 50L to fill up from well into the red, I use 95 so it's about $60-70. We get about 600km in city driving (we are mostly in traffic) but I have done over 750km on a tank when mostly on highways. Insurance is about $1k/yr agreed value, old Golf was comparable initially. Service is fixed price plus all the bullshit. Around $400 usually.
- We had an issue early on with a plastic cover coming loose. Fixed under warranty straight away. Other than a couple of really small cosmetic issues it's been fine.
- Definitely recommend it. First Golf was solid and reliable for 8 years, this one has been doing well so far (it's our only car, and in 2.5 years has already done about 60% of the total KMs the old car did). Love it and would buy another.
- 2007 BMW 335i E93
- private sale - 86,000km on clock
- $35,000 part car loan
- 11-12L/100km a lot less fuel efficient if you open up the twin turbos
- Water Pump shat itself - $650 i provided the pump and thermostat and cost $350 to fit, DME Fried, $500 to repair, new coils and injectors $3000, Walnut Blast $500, General Service $200
- Even with all the problems the smile it puts on your face when you put the foot down is worth it, budgeted for most repairs as i knew they were coming up at 100,000kms
1.2002 Mazda Metro Shades
2.pre-owned from private seller
3.$1200 unfinanced
4.Fuel approximately 7-8L/100km, third party insurance only, tyres have lasted a couple of years, minor service approximately once a year, recently had brakes done but apart form that extremely cheap to run
5.No major problems - worry free motoring ;)
6.Would recommend for anyone looking for something to tide you over until you lash out on something that's a little more fun!BMW 520d 2009
Bought second hand, had done 80,000km is now upto 145k km's
Beautiful car, solid, drives nicely
Diesel tank lasts 800-1000km depending on driving
Loved it so much bought an F80 520d BMW.
So how much did you pay for it?
- Audi Q3 (2014), 2.0 TFSI, 125kw, Technik package, 18s
- $55000 novated lease; ex-demo (800km on odometer)
- Uses 95/98 octane so bit more expensive like most Euros; do about 10L/100km per novated leave statements (all city driving — I rarely drive > 70kmh in Sydney); $900 comprehensive insurance; servicing free for 3 years under lease so expecting some serious damage to the wallet next year ;(
- Audi MMI crashed a few times randomly but firmware upgrade seems to have fixed it; had the key get stuck in lock < 10 times & have to restart engine, move car forward or backwards, the off again to remove (pretty annoying and dealer has noooo idea)
- If you can afford it, sure, nice car to drive, responsive/zippy, good for young small family or two professionals, but I think I'll go with something a bit more OzBargain friendly next time e.g., looking at a Mazda CX-5 next with cheaper servicing
2003 VY Commodore Executive Wagon on LPG
From Dealer
$5500 cash in 2010
Fairly cheap to run - about 16L/100 on gas, cheap to service
has always had an issue with the intake manifold gasket (apparently a common issue with ecotecs, we have just left it as a tiny bit of oil ends up in the coolant but that's about it) and has to have things like suspension bushes and engine mounts replaced. Has had an annoying engine warning light for ages which is thermo fan related yet the thermo fans work fine.
It's done 352,000kms and doesn't blow smoke or use much oil and still runs well, took us from Adelaide to cairns and back via the coast without an issue.
Would recommend as in the last 6 years that we've owned it we haven't spent much on it. Parts are REALLY cheap, especially as we live in SA and go to upullit.Just bought
2007 VZ Commodore Executive Wagon
Has aftermarket LPG Injection
$3900 cash privately purchased in 2016
A bit early to say running costs but the LPG Injection is a big step up from mixer systems - runs really well seems to be doing about 12.5L/100 in the city and considering LPG is about 65c a litre you get the economy of a small call
They do say that the alloytecs tend to have an issue with timing belts around 100-150,000k's so getting one that has already had the timing belt replaced might be a good idea
Probably a bit early to recommend this one as we only just bought it but we really didn't have any alternatives for what we needed - we wanted a big car that had a good tow capacity for a caravan, didn't want the horrible fuel economy of an SUV, considered the ford territory but were put off by people reporting bushes wearing out really quickly and just generally shoddy build quality.1997 Mazda 323 Astina (5 doors)
Pre-Owned. Private seller.
$3100 Cash
$50 for a full tank (~45 liters tanks) runs for 350-400kms. Servicing is about 250 for a minor and major goes to 500. Paid $260 for one-year third party insurance.
No faults and never disappointed me. Very thankful to my car.
No. Get a proper car 2005+ model.
- Toyota Camry Hybrid 2010
- Pre-owned. Dealer.
- $21,000 in 2012. Cash.
- Yes. ~7L/100km. ~$350 Serviced at Toyota. ~$30 a month.
- No. No, however boot space smaller because of extra battery pack, laying back seats down don't allow you any more space in boot because of said issue.
- Yes.
BMW 523i (E39 5-series), 1997
pre-owned, private (bought in 2004)
$34k, cash
Fuel efficiency - not good, about 10km/L highway. Don't bother with comprehensive insurance, TP-property $210 p.a.
Servicing: $500-850/major
Faults - key barrel broke (common issue), all other issues introduced by incompetent mechanics.
Recommend - totally (hence holding on till death), however most are near the end of their life now.Love the E39's, had an 01 530i m-sports, much better driving dynamics than my newer e60
Which car do you drive? BMW, 550i, 2008 (E60)
2.Private
3.$55,000 (Novated lease)
4.$6-7,000 Per Year ($1600 Insurance, Rego/ CTP 1k) Fuel average combined 10.8/100 (Not bad for a V8) - Canberra Roads, so not equiv to Syd Traffic
Repairs in the last year or so have lifted the running costs
All Gaskets replaced - $2200
Gearbox Solanoids - $1300
Tyres $1250~ (275/35/19)5.Oil Leaks - Had the engine lifted to replace all gaskets
6.If you can afford to run it sure, I use the lease to assist with the ongoing costs. For driving Dynamics I wouldn't recommend the E60 over an E39 or the newer models (I would suggest looking for an F10 535i)Ouch on $1600+ insurance a year!
That was with Alianz, all other quotes came to around $2500 :( I wasn't quite 30 at the last renewal so it should be cheaper this year (fingers crossed)
- Which car do you drive? Toyota Avalon 2001
- Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Pre-owned, private seller.
- How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? $3750 in cash
- Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance $250 third party insurance, $100-200 service/year, full tank ($50-$60) for 450km.
- Faults? Any major problems? Nothing yet
- Will you recommend your car? Yes
- 1990 NA Mazda Mx5
- Pre-owned private seller
- <$4k without rwc (last year). $600 more to get rwc (was probably going to be closer to $1k if i didn't do some work myself)
- $40 for full tank (45 lt tank). Barely any servicing, but all self-done. $100 p.a. $200 for third party only.
- Faults. Does not have a music player and needs a new radiator soon.
- Possibly for a nice go-kart feel + cheap convertible.
- 2015 Mazda CX-5 GT
- New from dealer
- 43k cash
- ~$60 for a tank of petrol which gets 550 - 800 km depending on where you're driving. With capped priced serving at present so i think the last service was around $200. Insurance renewal for comprehensive is $1000 but it seems a bit high (might have to look around)
- My only fault is the accelerator is making a slight clicking noise when it's pressed. Must be the rubber under it. Hardly a major fault.
- I wholeheartedly recommend the car! The entertainment system is great on the new range of Mazda's. It handles well and acceleration is decent. Only wish they'd throw their new CX-9 engine (2.5T) into the CX-5, that'd be so much fun :D
- 2015 Hyundai Veloster SR Turbo +
- Purchased brand new from a dealer.
- Partially financed, all up including interest and fees, $33500.
- 8-9L/100km fuel, ~$250 every 6 months for capped price servicing, $90/month insurance (23yo male)
- The GPS is slightly bright at night, and the dual clutch auto tends to stick to gears a little.
- I'd recommend it. Probably the cheapest way to get that sort of power (150kW). I see better cars out there, but at the price it was between the Veloster and a Mazda 3 SP25 GT.
I considered this car awhile back but many swear it's a dangerous lemon: http://www.productreview.com.au/p/hyundai-veloster.html How long have you had yours for? how many Klms are on it out of interest?
I got mine in September 2015, and I've now done around 11,500km.
I haven't had any issues, and I joined a Facebook group with about 500 Veloster owners before purchasing the car to see if there were common problems to worry about - a lot were sold in Australia, and the number with issues wasn't at all different to any other car.
My only complaints are the two listed in my comment above, with a possible third being that the plastics rattled a little when the car was brand new, but stopped after about 1500km.
Also, I get comments all the time. Mine is bright yellow, and it's rare for someone to not comment on the car when filling up with petrol, with rare comments when out shopping.
Nissan Pulsar 2005
Local Private Seller
5000 cash
1.8 Litre engine so petrol cost is tiny, top up fluids every now and then, havent had an issue in over 3 years
None, car runs really well
Definitely, its a cheap sedan with a lot of space, low on fuel, scrubs up pretty good, no major problems, best car I've owned.Previously owned a 98 mitsubishi magna, which also was a great car, lots of power and space but guzzled fuel a fair bit.
Reading the comments above, it seems BMW has more maintenance than others. I guess BMW guys can afford it.
- Ford Focus Sedan 2012 LW MKII Trend 2.0i 125kW 6Sp PowerShift with a convenience pack, was a bit less than 80000 kms on the clock
- Bought two weeks ago through a dealer (was someone's trade-in)
- $12000 drive-away, cash (transferred the amount to dealer's account)
- Just did a 800 km trip with some local driving (Lakes Entrance) and it returned 6.0L/100 km with the average speed 65 km/h. Driving in the city is around 9-10L/100 km (average speed is around 27 km/h). The tank is small (55L) and costs around $45 to refill with ULP. The rego is around $770 in VIC (not due to July), comprehensive insurance costs $55.37 per month (Real Insurance) with $500 excess, agreed value and mileage. Haven't serviced it yet, as it was fully serviced (including all rotors changed) by the dealer. The capped service costs 335$ a year / 15000 km at the Ford dealers, but I'll service it at my local mechanic's place once per a year / 10000 km. I believe it will be the same as other cars at around $150-200 for a minor service.
- It's not a conventional auto, need some time to get used to it, can be not smooth in start-stop traffic. The tyres' noise is a bit high, but these are still factory fitted ones Michelin and I'll replace them during next service. Cannot say anything about faults yet (touching the wood) as it's just two weeks of use.
- Yes, i'd recommend it. It handles really well (if not the best, then one of the best ones in the class), the engine is punchy, the fuel consumption is very moderate. My sync media system is really smart (the quality of the sound is really average though).
we took it for my partner instead of saab 9-5 2.3t 2002.
Ford doesn't have this nice turbo feeling (which saab had), great audio system, leather/electrical seats and the like, but it feels (and yes, it is) much fresher and newer (saab had only 133k on odo and was in great condition for its age), accelerate approximately the same and drinks 2/3 or even less of the saab's consumption (was 9L/100km on highway with a bit of local traffic / 16L/100 km in the city).Nissan Maxima Ti 2002
Bought it in 2013 sep for $3000 with 300 k and 4 new tyres and 3 months of regeo.Changed starter motor in this Jan cost me 350 via racv.
I have done now 380k. Still feeling happy.Which car do you drive? 1990 Celica GT4
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Private
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Cash $2,500
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance Insurance? Not running so its free, had to fill it up to get it home $80 (60 litres?). not insured so dont steal it.
Faults? Any major problems? Doesnt run, I believe its an AFM problem
Will you recommend your car? Absolutely, will do it again =)
Toyota Aurion ATX 2015
Brand new, had 6km's on it when i picked it up.
31k 0% Fiance, From a Toyota dealer
Running costs? Fuel: Average V6 Cylinder Fuel consumption On a long highway run ive seen it at 6.9l/100k, , Toyota capped at $140, $74 a month for insurance
I have owned Aurions since 2007, and the only fault I had was the air conditioner stopped working, however as im a tall bloke, I had been kicking the "Servo" and the fault was my fault.
Definitely have always loved my Aurion'sthat's a pretty generous deal if toyota offered you a fiance with the car
I'll take the girl from the Ford ads with my new Falcon thanks.
2004 Hyundai Getz 1.5L Manual
From my father $5000 cash in 2010
Takes about 38L petrol on "warning light" which costs about $38 ULP91
Full tank lasts me 1 1/2 weeks in Sydney's M4 traffic.
Insurance about $500 comprehensive with AAMI, CTP $650. Servicing $500/year
Timing was replaced in 2010 at 66000km.
No faults since except now lately, an odd noise in the engine which I guess I must check out soon. It's been perfect mechanically though.I would recommend as an economical car that does the job in the city. I have driven this car on 1000km trips and it's "okay" on the freeways but becomes a bit cramped after a while.
- Honda Civic Hatch, 2013
- Bought new at dealer
- 22500 Cash
- They now introduced cap service which normally cost $250-$350 for regular service (Note that the service period are 6 months which didn't bother when I finally get to buy a car but if I am buying a new one I would look for a car that wouldn't ask to get the car serviced twice a year). I am protective to my car so I am using V-Power for this guy. Normally $60 full tank. Running at 8.3L/100km. No insurance only third party.
- Had no problem. Japanese car are truly reliable.
- Yes, if one doesn't care too much about the under-power engine, other than that, the car does everything i need it to. huge cargo space and decent essential equipment. The new Honda civic kept growing on me but the 2013 still looks good for me.
I'm surprised not much Toyota owners here. Lots of Honda and Ford
I guess I'm surprised too, very reliable cars to own if a tad boring. The wife has a 2014 Toyota Corolla Sports hatchback..unfortunately sports in name only. I have no idea where the 100kw is but even ringing it's neck I struggle to find oomph, especially considering it chews petrol. But at least it is a reliable family car.
I really think that part of Toyota's 'reliability' comes from their ridiculously short service intervals. They are in the garage so often they don't have time to develop problems.
I agree new Toyota is 1/2 year servicing I think its too regular for service caps
1) VW Touareg V6 TDI MY16 - the worlds most underrated car :)
2) Demo from dealer
3) $73k including 5y unlimited km warranty($5k) + towbar($3.5k)
4) $2k/y for insurance/ctp/rego, caped servicing $600 no fuel cost (company fuel card)
5) non whatsoever
6) it's a great truck, my only regret is that I didnt buy V8 ….. Oh well next time2015 Holden Captiva 7 LTZ Diesel
New.
$37750 Cash
7.5l/100km, $400/yr Dealer servicing, $600/yr insurance
The GPS will randomly reboot - possibly due to a loose power connection
Absolutely, it is great to drive.
might want to get any issues fixed under warranty. i think the captiva is a rebadged daewoo
No, but close.
The Captiva 7 is a rebadged Chevrolet made by GM Korea.
GM sold the Daewoo brand to Tata.And I think the Captiva 5 is a rebadged Opel made by GM Vietnam.
What are you on about guy? A Captiva is made and developed by Daewoo in Korea. Tata did not buy Daewoo cars, they bought Daewoo commercial (trucks, buses). GM Korea is Daewoo. A Captiva is a Daewoo. Chevrolet outside of the USA means nothing, it is a generic badge put on bad cars to make them sound less crap.
You are completely wrong.
Daewoo cars no longer exist in Korea, as the "BRAND" was sold to Tata - do you understand what "BRAND" means?
It may have been a "Daewoo" pre-2011, but they are not anymore.Here's a free history lesson for you:
- In 2001 the Daewoo corporation sold 100% of its auto manufacturing arm to GM, who then sold its commercial vehicles division to Tata.
- In 2011 GM sold the complete rights to the Daewoo Motors "brand" to Tata, and continued manufacturing operations under the brand name GM Korea, on the proviso that they not sell the Daewoo branded Tata vehicles in Korea.This would therefore mean that since 2011, any car with the Daewoo brand, would have been manufactured by Tata.
I was living in Korea when this happened.
So unlike Ssangyong Motors (which is 70% owned by Mahindra, and 30% owned by the Ssangyong Corporation), or Samsung Motors (which is 80% owned by Renault and 20% owned by the Samsung Corporation); the Daewoo Motors "brand" is 100% owned by Tata
The 2015 Captiva depending on the model (5 or 7) were designed by either Chevrolet or Opel, as Holden has no skilled auto designers.
- The Captiva 7 are built by GM Korea as a Chevrolet (NOT by (Daewoo) Tata), it and rebadged as a Holden for the Australian market.
- The Captiva 5 are built by GM Vietnam as an Opel and then rebadged as a Holden for the Australian market.Either way, I would trust any car that was designed, manufactured, built in Korea for reliability, well before I would trust any car "assembled" in Australia.
Stop spreading crap and making up facts. You are completely wrong about almost everything you have just said. My previous post was correct factually in everyway. Let me reiterate with evidence.
GM Korea bought Daewoo. It's lipstick on a pig. Same company, different name. They still own the car operations.
Tata bought the commercial division of Daewoo and produced buses and trucks, but not the cars.
The Captiva was developed by Daewoo and upon acquisition of Daewoo, it was sold under different GM brand names around the world. It is through and through a Daewoo.
Chevrolet outside of the USA is merely a generic GM brandname, slapped on anything for marketing not reasons. The same with Opel outside of Europe. These GM brand names are largely interchangeable. (see Opel's recent Australian foray/exit).
You're a fool if you think a Captiva is reliable because it is made in Korea. It has it's nickname for a reason.
Here is some reading for you:
'By 1999, the whole Daewoo Group ran into financial trouble, and was forced to sell its automotive division. Candidates for the operation included Hyundai associated with DaimlerChrysler, Ford Motor Company and the GM-Fiat alliance. Finally, General Motors was the one who acquired Daewoo Motor's assets.
In 2002, Daewoo Commercial Vehicle Company was spun off from parent Daewoo Motor Co. Ltd. In 2004, it was acquired by Tata Motors, India's largest passenger automobile and commercial vehicle manufacturing company.'
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daewoo_Motors
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holden_Captiva
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Captiva
If you read carefully, you will see that Australian Capitvas are produced in South Korea, not Vietnam, apart from a temporary period where manufacturing shifted to Thailand due to problems with the Korean factory.
Please stop spreading misinformation. You have literally made up the vast majority of your post.
I have the exact same car as you with the exact same GPS issue haha. Been replaced twice
Car 1-
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year: 2012 Subaru WRX Club Spec
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?: New, had to wait 3 months for production and to take delivery
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?: $47,888 on 50% finance 50% cash.
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance: $85 for full tank of 98 octane, $350 on servicing each year due to less than 5,000km use P/A. Insurance is roughly $1,200 through Shannons which includes extensive list of modifications.
Faults? Any major problems?: Rattles and squeaks, cheap quality interior plastics, very mediocre tune from factory, high fuel consumption for 2.5l due to old engine technology.
Will you recommend your car?: I'd recommend the newer generation, as there is a lot more refinement, more comfortable, more tuning potential, much lower rpm on highway and more safety equipment as standard. For a track hack, this one does the job.
Car 2-
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year: 2010 Subaru liberty 2.5i premium wagon
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?: pre-owned, purchased in 2015 with 41,500km.
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?:$19,500 cash.
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance:$85 for a tank of 98 octane. Can likely run on 91 and 95, but I figure the few extra ¢ per litre isnt an issue and possibly gives me better consumption and longevity. Generally getting 850km out of a tank. Servicing is between $320 for minor service and $800 for major every 12,500km. $1150 for insurance due to business use.
Faults? Any major problems?: CVT seems to hold "3rd gear" sometimes (which I know technically isn't a gear, but when I flip the paddle to up shift, it shows "4" on the display) , but can use paddle shift to manually overcome this. Have been told a software update of gearbox will fix issue.
Will you recommend your car? Yes, absolutely. There are not many cars as smooth and comfortablw as the liberty in this price range, which offer AWD grip and handling, can fit a mountain bike in the back with 3 adults in the car and still have room to move, decent fuel economy and allows the driver to have some fun. Definitely in a different league to the 2015+ liberty though, but at around 1/2 the price.
2015 Toyota 86 GTS
used, auction
$28,000 cash
7L/100km, insurance was only a bit more than previous car (2000 commodore)
No issues, less than 20,000km. Came without gear knob
For a young couple/bachelor/midlife crisis woman - 100%- VW Golf TDI 1.6L common-rail diesel manual
- Got it with a blown engine, found a damaged one at the auctions with low kms, got my mechanic to switch over engines
- Owes me about 6k to date.
- $40 per tank gets me 950 kms
- no issues, love life
- Yes, however it can be a little boring would be good if it was more zippy.
2004 Nissan Cube Autech Rider
about 6000AUD(includes on roads here) Personal import
gets me 500-600km on 98 full tank think is a 30lt tank1999 Nissan Stagea RS260
paid 12000 engine blew up after a week rebuilt $4000
to me a bargain GTR Shopping Cart
i cry every time i need to fill up- Toyota Camry Atara SL 2014
- Pre owned, dealer
- $25500, 50% finance.
- $40/tank, $140 a year servicing, $1400 for insurance.
- nothing happened so far.
- Recommendable for its lasting quality, although exterior design isn't great like its peers in the same range.
Family car
- 2010 Toyota Rukus
- Won it from Gizmodo.com so 1000km on clock but $10000 worth of gadget upgrades.
- Just a couple of grand for stamp duty and insurance
- $555 full comp insurance. 10l/100km once a year service for $350. 2.4l engine has enough poke to be fun around town although it could have used a 6spd auto not the 4spd it came with.
- Car is absolutely faultless as long as you can get past the look of it.
- Gave the car to the missus when we started a family. She loves it and when asked recently if she wanted to upgrade said "no-way. I love that car" Very easy to get in and out of in a skirt apparently. Also a lot of room inside the car much like the previously mentioned cube.
Car 2
- 2007 BMW 325i Msport e90
- private sale
- $18200 a year ago cash
- $600 service once a year, 10l/100km, $539 full comp insurance less than the Rukus, go figure.
- Just had to replace a coil $100
- If you don't mind the extra costs of parts and servicing it's a very nice car to drive. People who don't know think it's worth a lot more money than I paid for it.
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
Mitsubishi, Magna 1999Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Bought 6 years ago privatelyHow much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
1400-ishRunning costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
3rd party, private Asian mechanic (take my car to his house) LOL, dun care abt fuel since I do not have to spend on anything elseFaults? Any major problems?
Failed alternator, replaced by NRMA mechanic for a peanut price a few years back. Got ripoff and cheated by freaking Midas near my house once but they went busted anyway, karma is a bitch.Will you recommend your car?
Yes! Roomy, powerful, serve all purposes, theft proof!, collision proof, car of steel, ozbargain style, why the f not?
Which car do you drive? Hyundai Accent 2001
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? pre-owned - 90k
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? $3400 original price, after two hours of talk $2750
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance (profanity)-o
Faults? Any major problems? noisy as hell, definitely a budget car
Will you recommend your car? yes if luxury is not a primary concernI think your last line should read 'Will you recommend your car? yes if owning a good car is not a primary concern'.
- 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser
- Private Seller - had 40000km on the clock
- $36000 18 months ago, savings
- 190L Fuel Tank usually costs ~ $220 to fill, lasts about 3 weeks on average , $700 Comprehensive Insurance
- Uses a bit of fuel as its a large car (11-15l/100k), no good if you have kids as rear passenger windows are tiny and don't wind down
- Only recommend if you need a large roomy car for towing or camping, touring.
Love the FJ, great resale too.
- Audi A4 Sports line 2008
- Bought pre owned from dealer
- $28000
- Fuel : Two full tanks per month as I do about 1200 kms a month
Capacity is 66 lts
I service twice a year which costs about $400 each
Insurance is about $120 a month - Running like a gem. No faults apart from timing belt change which I did at $150000 kms
- Absolutely. They are really well build and strong going
- Ford Falcon Forte 2002 III Wagon
- Private seller, pre-owned
- Cash, $1250 with 190.000km ( bought in July 2015, just sold for $2250 with 210.000km now )
- Fuel about 13l / 100k, servicing $250 ( had it serviced once ), WA rego $660 per year, Allianz TPP appr. $200
- After buying I needed to replace fairings and an oil leak for $500, got 4 new tyres and it's leaking transmission oil ( too costly to have it fixed, just kept topping it up because it was a minor leak ). Informed the buyer of this and it was included in the selling contract.
- Good and cheap car, have not been using it in the city though due to high running costs. Just doing GoGet now after selling it.
- Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel with Quadrolift 2014
- New
- $58k
- Insurance $760, $90.21 to fill (93l tank capacity @ $.97/l) - 1120 - 1180km per fill (Comb-8.2l/100km, HW-7.6l/100km), 10k servicing interval - very expensive $800-$1200 pa (cheaper if you buy your own parts)
- Non so far, hopeful because its a new model engine built by a new company, track record has been good so far, better than the crappy Pentastar Petrol engine.
- Based on my experience with this car, I would recommend this EcoDiesel model alone if you can overlook the ludicrous service cost.
I've done a lot of long distances with this car Wagga Wagga to Brisbane North about 1260km on a full tank with about 60ks remaining another one is Canberra to Brisbane North about 1230kms on a full tank with about 85kms left till empty. Melbourne also but had to refill once & did Wonnangatta Station in Billabong VIC.
What do you think Is wrong with the Pentastar? It's powerful and economical, but also around $10k cheaper to buy in the real world. Performance isn't massively different in the real world. It's a simple engine that is reliable also. It lacks the torque of the diesel but this is helped by the 8 speed and the large difference in power in favour of the petrol. I agree that if you want to go off-roading a lot you really need the diesel, as only the Overland diesels come with the rear diff, but for a cost vs performance ratio (real world cost not rrp) the petrol is an enticing option. You would have to do a hell of a lot of miles in the diesel to make up $10k, especially considering the Pentastar uses the cheapest 92 petrol and can also do 7L/100km on the freeway.
My comment about the Pentastar was based solely on track record and personal experience. I've been a big fan of Jeeps & Fords right from the US to here in Australia and in all those years, I've never driven any that runs as smooth as the VM Motori Ecodiesel engine A 630 DOHC which happens to power Maserati Ghibli III & Maserati Quattroporte VI. Numbers & stats apart, it is a great engine & runs smooth and for me, I just want something that works & wouldn't disappoint in those deserted areas, price is not really my first consideration though. Did I mention I get down to 6.3l/100km on my long trips (I suppose helped by the Quadrolift air suspension). Pentastar & HEMI are quite reliable as well, its just my preference.
Let's not deviate from the topicNo, let's not, but I'm calling you out on saying the current generation Pentastar is crappy, it isn't, it's a decent engine. The VM Motori diesel is competitive, but there are certainly smoother and more powerful engines in the same class from BMW, Mercedes and Land Rover. It's horses for courses.
- 2010 Holden Commodore VE SV6 S2
- second-hand private
- $14000 cash
- $30-40 of fuel will last about a week; depends on driving style. CTP $540 + NRMA Comprehensive $800 + rego
- Not so far, only had it a few weeks and its at 120000km, but its already had it's service.
- Definently, its a massive upgrade from an older VX with a decent amount of power for the price and fuel economy.
- 2015 Skoda Octavia VRS hatchback
- bought new from dealer
- 40,500, cash
- Ron95 @@ $65-$70 tank (50L@$1.35 perL), $500 per year insurance (NRMA), service every 15k mitigate higher service cost
- None I can think of atm
- Definitely, cant beat the combined drivability/tech/space/practicality/frugality and better fit/finish IMO than comparable VWs
Was going to get those for company car but the lead time was 6 months!
Great boot space on the wagons though.
Incoming faint whisper - stage 1 tune :)
2015 mazda 3 hatch
Bought new
26k finance
Jack all running costs, awesome on fuel
None so far
Will you recommend your car? DefinatelyI was driving toyota aurion 2013 bought it as demo only 5000km for 25$k in 2013 perfect car nothing wrong with it and worth every cent i paid for it. Fuel capacity is 55 liter and gave me a minimum of 550km around Perth city and 650km during travelling in highway only. Service was capped at around 140$(Every 9 months or 15000km) and just sold it couple months ago for 15$k within couple of days of posting it(Most of the people coming to view it were getting it to drive with uber). Now on the market for HSV Maloo 2015 Auto but cant find one at the right price.
- Mazda 3, 2010 auto
- New, back in 2011
- 25K, cash, got the money from hail damage of previous car (mitsubishi mirage 1999)
- I drive rarely (public transport), can't comment on this
- No
- No, hate the driver seat! not ergonomic at all (unless I'm getting older and fussier)
downero on 14/03/2016 - 16:13
Digging up old threads mate.
I know…I thought, why not? as it hasn't been closed off hehe
Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
Toyota Prius I-tech 2005
Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
Pre-owned, Dealer
How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
$27k including finance. Bought in 2007
Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
4.7-5.3L/100km, service myself using synthetic oil and long life filter every ~15-20k, ~$350/year comprehensive
Faults? Any major problems?
I didn't service the car once for a bout 40k and it spun a bearing. I bought a new motor for $450 and put it in, easy job. Then there was one year i didn't drive for a year and when i started driving it again the A/C compressor didn't work, the fault code indicated it was seized, so i replaced it for about $120 for a used one and $50 re-gas. I've replaced the conventional 12v battery with a cheap aftermarket twice and one of the traction battery cells once. The traction battery cells are about $75 each and it's an easy job to replace them.
Will you recommend your car?
Everyone should own a prius is the perfect car when all you need is cheap transportation. It has way better acceleration than most 1.8 and 2.0 litre cars even though it's a 1.5 because of the electric motors. Essentially is a normal 4cyl car that converts braking energy into battery power instead of heat, it's crazy that all cars don't do that. I also have a V8 Mercedes and an old Falcon that's being rebuilt as a race car but even as a 'petrol head' the prius wins for daily driver.
mancharged 2016