Buying This Used Mitsubishi Outlander

Looking at a 2018ish Mitsubishi Outlander, about 99K kms.

Serviced at 1.2k, 15k, 30k, 45k, then nothing until a service at 81k, another at 93k, and that was the most recent 5/2024. Passed a RWC this week and then we are doing a pre-purchase inspection. If the inspection is all clear, is that still good enough?

Cheers!

Comments

  • +2

    is that still good enough?

    Who knows, depends on the price really.

    • 24.420 Drive-away

      • You sure you don’t need us to point out that you can buy a brand new BYD Dolphin Essential for just a few $ more?

        • Is Dolphin an SUV?

          • @meong: No, a dolphin is a sea mammal.
            The relevance of my comment being about the same as yours

        • +2

          The end goal is not to buy an EV for everyone. Especially a tiny one like that

        • As someone who traded up from a Outlander to an Atto 3, yeah, the Atto 3 isnt even as big as the Outlander. If they need and Outlander, a Dolphin isnt going to cut it.

        • I will go GWM jolin for 23,990 drive away.
          petrol car, SUV, 7 year warranty
          https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/875942

        • you make a nice point but we are after a 4/AWD SUV or wagon,,

          • @capslock janitor: If you dont ever go to the snow or drive muddy, gravel roads, you dont NEED awd.

            • -1

              @Euphemistic: intending to use for similar terrain youve listed! mt,gravel roads, national parks, interstate roadtrip

      • +1

        I purchased a 2018 outlander poverty pack edition (ES) for 27000 brand new drive away with a year of rego back in September 2020 (Got it cheap as it had been on the lot for a year already and was perfect timing right before the covid car shortage.

        Sounds like you are looking at a higher trim deisel version which i know nothing about.

        Car has been great, 0 issues at all, cheap services, about 7-8l per 100km, an efficient reliable engine compared to the Nissan engines they put in the new outlanders.
        It was also the last model before all the beeping at everything requirments came in from ANCAP.

        I think they are a fine car, but at that price I would think you can find something a bit better value, if you still have your old usable car now, I would keep shopping around with the flood of new cars hitting the country which should push the used prices down even more.

        • hi yeah we looking at the LS pack/trim. curious what engine# you have in the bonnet plate? @Kegsta
          thanks for sharing.
          the old car has check engine light and was blowing grey//white smoke guzzling a lot of fuel apparently

  • +5

    Step 1: a PPSR check https://www.revscheck.com.au/
    Step 2: a check by a mechanic not associated with the buyer.

    @pegaxs anything to add?

    • +8

      This saves cents. Cheers

      • Definitely better. Cheers.

        • +14

          PPSR?? And what, waste $2. Also +1 for using the government PPSR site and not these shady sites that do the same thing but charge $30+. But if OP is buying it from a dealer, I am pretty sure, by law, they must do a PPSR check and must offer the car without any encumberance. You can ask the dealer for a copy of the PPSR report and they should have it on file… But for personal sales, 100%, get a PPSR check.

          Step 1a: Stop at Dan Murphy's for a box of darts and a carton of piss on your way to Uncle Ian's.

          Step 3: Post on OzBargain and make sure to not mention any other pertinent details in your post like price, trim level (LS, ES, ZS, FWD/AWD, diesel, PHEV), state, colour, condition, you know, all the stuff people would need to know to make an informed advise. (InB4: all the rabid screeching that OP has mentioned these items… Yes, they have now, but they didn't in their OP.)

          Step 4: If you were asking about "free/introductory" driving lessons last week and jumping right to buying a $25k Outlander this week, your budget priorities may be all (fropanity) up. I would also spend some time getting insurance quotes on a 2018 Diesel Outlander for someone with zero driving skills. The quotes may be more than the car is worth.

          If OP (or anyone buying a car) is in NSW, I would also run the rego number through RMS rego check and see what the last 3 vehicle odometer readings are. Looking for odometer tampering.

          Things to look out for are;
          Obvious rollback (massive odometer drop from one year to next)

          12 Jul 2024: 99,457km
          24 Jul 2023: 248,973km
          17 Jul 2022: 210,830km

          Hidden rollback (has 3 "RWC" in very short span of time to purge old odometer readings.)

          4 Jan 2025: 99,457km
          30 Dec 2024: 99,450km
          28 Dec 2024: 99,448km

          • +4

            @pegaxs: @pegaxs You should charge for your reply.

          • @pegaxs: i found this "guarantee of clear title" for Licensed dealers
            https://www.consumer.vic.gov.au/licensing-and-registration/m…
            they emailed us a copy the pssr before

            LS trimlevel,
            4wd/awd i mentioned in title but poweruser removed.
            starlight?white

            the lessons are for helping someone.

            insurance quote comprehensive ~3119, TPP~1308 annual
            it said TPP Fire&Theft unable to provide.. never seen that before

            wish there would be a similar RMS odo/rollback checker for vic

      • oh, so REVS is a thirdparty service and PPSR is official..?
        i entered the VIN into Revs and it wanted ppsr for $29 and carhistory report for $39 with ppsr cert included

    • what about this CarHistory thing that some mechanic ppi includes?
      https://www.carhistory.com.au/

      • Thats just a BS fancy report version of the PPSR. Not worth the extra money.

  • What does the owner say about the missing services? Having service records in a book is only part of the equation.

    • i can ask , it's a used dealership —would they know ?

      • They probably won't tell you due to privacy laws .
        you could try and sweet talk them about service history , as your currently considering buying

        • they havent reply the emails at all since. yet their hours are 7 days

      • +1

        would they know ?

        The bigger question is, would you believe them?

        It’s not in their interest to tell you its missed 40ish k kms as it will devalue it - especially given at those kms that it potentially wasn’t serviced for around 2.5 years.
        YMMV

        • you could be right.. we hoped it would go more smoothly and transparently

      • +1

        Im surprised a used dealer hasnt chucked the service booklet if its incomplete. Have heard they often flick through and if its not filled out properly they think its worse than if it missing so they throw them away.

    • +4

      If the 45k and 81k service is done by the same place you might be able to call the service department and see if they have the service history on file.

      May have just been a lazy owner not bringing the log book.

      • +1

        true. I once went to service my car at a toyota dealer but forgot the logbook, they said they'd fill it in the following service but never did.

        • +2

          I just keep the book in the glovebox so it's always there when I take it to get serviced.

          • +1

            @AngusD: Dont forget to take it out of the glovebox and put it on the passenger seat so they see it.

            • +1

              @Euphemistic: They haven't missed it yet, I think they just look in there assuming that's where it is.

              Any any case, I've got a folder thing where I keep all the printed service reports so I've got a full history from new showing dates, kms, what was done, etc. So if/when I go to sell the car I've got that full history to show.

              • @AngusD: i like that idea of a folder. might be better organized than folding in half and shoving/stretching the owners manual wallet

                • +1

                  @capslock janitor: Yep, and I just put everything in there eg receipts for new tyres or detailing or whatever, gives a complete history. If you take care of your car well, this is a good thing to do as you then have documentation to back up how well you've looked after it when you go to sell it. If you don't look after it well then you probably don't want to do it as you'll have all these holes in the records where there should have been a service etc but wasn't :P

      • +1

        This, I just bought a car with 340k on it. The service book has I think 4 or 5 stamps in it, I called the place that has been servicing it and they confirmed it had had every service at basically every required interval. They weren't able to send me the records because privacy laws and I wasn't the registered owner at the time, but it is what it is.

      • the 45k was stamped at a Mitsu dealer
        and 81k at the current selling used dealer
        then 93k at another mitsu dealer ship

        • Ask mistubishi if its been serviced.

          BUT, if you dont get a response and since youve asked this question on a bargain forum, you arent the right person to buy a diesel CVT vehicle without a proven service history. Find another one.

        • It could potentially be a case that the selling used dealer has just stamped the book to look a bit less incomplete…

          Personally I'd be assuming it wasn't serviced between 45k and 93k.

          Either way I'd only consider buying if it was a bargain price, drove well, no sludge etc evident under oil cap. If they are selling for market rate, then just walk away.

          • @stewy: is it legal or traceable stamping without servicing?

            here's the oilcap from cool https://ibb.co/kV7Vp9hX @stewy

            https://beta.redbook.com.au/compare/?ids=SPOT-ITM-501052,SPO…,
            according to that2 the mean/avg might be about~23,300

            • @capslock janitor: As for your first questions, do you think it would be legal to fraudulently stamp a log book with a service that never happened? Regardless some unscrupulous dealers will still do it as its hard to prove.

              When I say look under the oil cap, I meant remove the oil cap, get a torch out and look at what you can see inside the rocker cover.

              As for values, don't waste time on Redbook, you need to search and contact sellers to see what the real price they are selling for is. Potentially will find better buys on FB Marketplace too.

              In any case doesn't sound like a bargain so I'd probably pass on this one.

  • +2

    state? petrol / diesel? (Check for common issues in various models)
    Mostly ppsr and independent mechanic checks are enough.

    • vic, disel

      • +3

        Not vin diesel?
        .

      • +2

        with 4N14 engine ? there is a design fault in that engine on balance shaft, I was also looking for an outlander and ended up getting AWD IX35 (D4HA engine + traditional auto transmission) for a lower price.

        https://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/threads/4n14-engine-balanc…

        Outlander is also CVT isn;t it ? make sure you change CVT oil even though it is not mentioned as a service item, better safe than sorry with those CVTs.

        • nice info,,
          the Engine number is 4N15xxxxxx fortunately? on the ppsr they proviuded

          yea CVT gearbox.
          one thing i dont like about mitsu is their log booklet has no details about whats being serviced & their pricing is POA.

          when should the cvt fluid be requested and frequency? at regular service, or "supplementary service" whatever that is any basic at mycar
          https://www.mycar.com.au/servicing/essential-servicing

          i note the logbook had skipped all "supplementary" ones in between the regular service

          • +1

            @capslock janitor: looks like engine is 4N15, not 4N14 then. I don't know much about that. One of my friends got a petrol ASX with similar CVT and changed CVT oil at around 120k km, cost was like $300 using Mitsubishi genuine oil and labour at local mechanic. Better to check a bit on the change interval as CVTs are kinda notorious (specially Nissan, and Mitsubishi is kinda same company along with Renault for years).CVT oil change is not done at any place routinely unless we arrange it to extend the lifetime of CVT.

            I think all log books are like that now, same for my IX35. I think supplementary service is for additional basic service like oil and filter change if you are using it in harsh conditions. Mine also has all services done at correct time, nothing for supplementary.

  • Check how clean it is through the oil cap and listen for any unusual noises.

    • the noise is all unusual to us being out first diesel//4wd car :\

    • Here's what it looks thru the cap @JIMB0 idk how it should look in comparison https://ibb.co/35SHD2sZ

      • Hard to say from that photo. Best to get a mechanic who is familiar with these engines to look at it. I'm sure these are a rather common vehicle, it would want to be significantly cheaper for the hassle and risk.

  • New car warranty may have been 5 years requiring service every year or 15,000 klm? From memory, you were supposed to get a service very soon after purchase (thought it was at 1000klm.)

    Once the warranty period was over, might just have gotten services when he needed to check something or whatever.

    One of the NA kinder bought a lancer around then and theirs had conditions something like that.

    • the standard 5 yr warranty pre-Oct2020 already finished for it
      https://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/owners/diamond-advantag…

      yeah it had the Complimentary 1,500 km Service done!

      the logbook has Regular service schedule every 12mths/15,000km
      with (all skipped) Supplementary services at 6mths/7,500km in between

      • -1

        A different NA kinder voided their new car warranty and the accompanying roadside assist policy (Hyundai) because it said "need service every 12 months OR 10,000 klm".

        Didn't realise it meant whichever one comes first so missed a variation of a 10,000 klm service because the milestone occurred before the relevant 12 month period and they mistakenly believed they could wait till the 12 month time limit approached/expired for a service and still be compliant with their warranty.

        Happened approaching their 4th year, can't remember the klm, but it was less than 40k, so really only lost one year warranty and roadside assist.

        Started blowing black smoke at 150k upon ignition (was just a 1.3l Getz which struggled to get up hills so it was worked quite hard for what it was), so after a few unsuccessful minor attempts to remedy, sensing an imminent costly solution, we traded it in quick smart.

  • -3

    Wouldn't trust a car that's gone 40k km without a service.

    Means it was neglected

    • You dont know it wasnt serviced, just that its not recorded. If its been serviced af 80 and 90 theres a faur chance its just a lazy mechanic not filling out the book.

      • +2

        You dont know it wasnt serviced, just that its not recorded

        Without proof of it being serviced the assumption is that it wasn't.

        You can't prove that it was a lazy mechanic/owner, so why even bother taking the risk? Move on. there's plenty of other cars on the market with full service histories.

        . If its been serviced af 80 and 90 theres a faur chance its just a lazy mechanic not filling out the book.

        I've got a bridge to sell you

        • -1

          I've got a bridge to sell you

          Meh. Havent bought a second hand car yet where Ive actively checked the service records.

        • I've got a bridge to sell you

          Does it have a reliable (and truthful) service history?

  • Since when is an Outlander a 4WD?

    • +4

      Anything is a 4wd if you just send it…..
      .

    • +1

      at least 2014

  • I have 2014 diesel outlander aspire

    it's been awesome.

    only major issue was a clogged intake manifold - $1400 repair at 180,000Kms (6 months ago). these earlier gen 3 didn't have the same waste system as newer models.

    double check on the those service points.

    I can't fault my outlander, and have looked at buying another when this one dies, but it keeps going.

    • I agree, got a neglected 2010 one over 300k, bullet proof. Cost me less than my Kluger in repairs.
      If the final check works out you won't look back. Good on you for being cautious too.

    • bit hard to check the service points when the Mitsu logbook doesnt itemize any details :\

      • bit hard to check the service points when the Mitsu logbook doesnt itemize any details :\

        If it's out of warranty, does this really matter?

        If you got an intrusive inspection now, could this provide you with a reliable, up to date condition report for how it is now and things you could anticipate requiring attention at some specified point?

        I've only ever sold a car when it developed issues that had the potential to be expensive to fix. I never told the dealer there was a problem, I figured that was in his wheelhouse to work out when he was negotiating a trade in price and then preparing it for its subsequent disposal.

        With that in mind, I am of the opinion that if I were to buy a second hand car, I am only buying someone else's problem. I have very little knowledge of cars or how to fix them if something goes wrong. As a result, I have been so cautious that I've never had the confidence to buy a second hand car.

        Some people shouldn't buy second hand cars. I am one of them.

    • nice to hear your decent experience with it.@altomic were you first owner, or used?

      please tell me what engine model yours has if verified?

      the cars information provided to us seems mismatched 4n14 and 4n15
      i tried to check around the engine but couldnt see the relevant markings to confirm

      • +1

        i got it used at 6months old & 13,000 kms on it.

        i believe mine is the 4n14 (just compared photos of that and the 4n15)

        the 2.2ltr turbo diesel engine is quite decent. reasonable acceleration. not thirsty. 10 years old and ~180,000 kms and I'm still happy with it.

        • ok tried comparing photos like you did and ours looks 4n14 too

          i did a bit more research and second guessing whether a diesel would be suitable.
          seems diesel engine is more handsy/maintenance in the long-run with DPF monitoring..

          4n14 apparently has known issue on various forums. @Oofy Doofy has a mention about theirs.

          main driver wants to get a decent 5yrs out of it before reconsidering.
          usage would be majority urban + occasional mtn,gravel rds,national parks,interstate travel. perhaps petrol/hybrid Awd better suited.
          what's your use-case like ?

          • @capslock janitor: If it's a 2018 model, it'll probably have the revised exhaust manifold.

            They also deleted the balance shaft assembly sometime in 2018.

            If the DPF is clogged, I would recommend replacing it over having it cleaned. The labour to remove and reinstall is not cheap, with not much change out of 1k. This is because of how it needs to be accessed.

            If they really want to have a diesel, at least install an oil and air separator. A good one though, like one from Ryco, or the Provent 150 (a little smaller so it more easily fits in the engine bay).

            Besides this, don't turn the engine off when it's doing a regeneration. It can do a regen at idle, but you need to leave the engine running. The designed engine idle speed is approximately 650rpm. If you keep your eye on the rpm gauge, you'll be able to tell when it's doing so. Otherwise use a ODB BT dongle and use an app to check the catalyst temp. It'll be upwards of 450 celsius.

            • @Oofy Doofy: Wow appreciate the info, complex to me. They didn't really mind a diesel at the time or know much (besides louder, more torque&fuel efficient) it just happened to be the one available with AWD from this particular dealer.

              • @capslock janitor: Mine only had an issue at 170,000kms with the intake manifold clogging with carbon due to it not having a waste capture (which was corrected in models 2015 on wards). Mine was meant to have regular clean outs of the manifold but my former mechanic was very average.

                Based on my experience with 2014 model, I'd have no hesitation buying a newer model diesel outlander

                • @altomic: There is no 2015 onwards waste capture contraption whatsoever.

                  This is something you have to install from the aftermarket.

  • 36k between services.

    You'd want an explanation on that.

    • -2

      if you believe @Euphemistic it was definitely 100% done, just not recorded and doesn't matter. lol

      • For a car under warranty, you can assume if it wasn't recorded it wasn't done.

        My car, well out of warranty hasn't had a logbook service after 105k. I just do it myself. Car runs well.

        After a certain age, logbooks don't matter, but 60k service isn't one of them.

        • What if the explanation is that it was done but not put in the book?

          • @Euphemistic: The dealer/mechanic should have a record of it.

            If not and no receipt, then it wasn’t done

            • @JimB: A service history doesn't really tell you what condition the car is in now though, so is a service history a reliable indication of that or just a false sense of security?

              Pretty sure there are places that do pre purchase inspections and can provide you with information about the current condition and what intervention is required now and a forecast of what to anticipate in the future.

              Even if a complete service history exists, how do you know these were good services?

              I mean, somewhere on here recently, a poster paid for a wheel alignment that the business (MYCAR?) never did. Only found out because his dash cam surreptitiously captured their dishonest shenanigans.

              Seems to me that an independent reputable pre purchase inspection would be a more accurate indication of what I am considering to buy.

              • @Muppet Detector: ' A service history doesn't really tell you what condition the car is in now though'

                Agree somewhat but you don't want to buy a car that had an oil change after 36k.

                Seems to me that an independent reputable pre purchase inspection would be a more accurate indication of what I am considering to buy.

                pre purchase inspections will determine what condition is of the car as is now.

                If you don't change oil frequently, the damage won't show up immediately, but may show up 50,000km later with sludge build up or engine wear

    • they havnt explained yet

      • +1

        Best to walk away.

  • Going 30k without a service is a major red flag with a high potential for there to be an engine sludging issue.

    Even the factory 15k interval is a bit too long if the vehicle is used in stop/start traffic & short trips. Every 10k is a better interval.

  • depends how $$$$$$$$$$$

  • Is the outlander an ES or an LS Model? ES is significantly cheaper than LS
    Check for Collision (Accident) History. Some dealers sell written off vehicles purchased from Auctions
    In which month and year was the 45K service and the 81K service done? What's the time gap? It may have been used for Uber during that period and the Odometer adjusted later.
    How are the tires and brakes as they would likely need replacement
    This is by no means an exhaustive list but I have listed the common tricks of trade

    • LS model. How do we check Collision/accident history?@utsc

      big thanks for your reply. this prompted me to rummage thru the booklet and papers again to see a copy of the missing 48month/60km service (distance-based servicing according to the service invoice)

      ~45K in 01/2022
      ~79K in 05/2023 (still about a 34K gap..?)
      ~81K in 08/2023

      the customer listed on the three provided Service(1.2k,45k,79k) invoices is Orix Australia Corporation…
      planning to get the car assessed by inspector

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