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20% off All Zigbee Smart Home Light Switches (No Neutral Required) + Free Express Shipping on Orders over $199 @ Oz Smart Things

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Hello Guys,

We just had a price drop across our Zigbee Range!

These Light Switches have an elegant Glass plate design with captive LED touch buttons.

They also do not require the Neutral wire to operate. However, if the connect lights are less than 50w then you will need to use a dimmer Bypass (such as the FIBARO dimmer Bypass). Works with all Common Zigbee hubs except Ikea and Hue due to their restrictions.

We have limited stock at this price. Get yours and don't miss out!

Note: These will need to be installed by a licensed electrician. These devices are fully compliant with Australian regulations and Oz Smart Things is a registered responsible supplier

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closed Comments

  • Does anyone have a elegant solution to add some sort of tactile response to these kind of smart switches with just a glass plate?

    • Yeah I tried some at my place once - it really threw me not having something tactile. Had to look at the switch every time I turned it on when I entered a room.

      Could get some little bump stickers or something to put on them

      If I was going to get smart switches I'd use the ikea remote switches and use them to trigger Sonoff R2 minis behind the wall plate to turn the lights on/off

    • Don't use them.
      Separate the physical button from the power control.
      Have one ZIgbee mains gadget to switch and dim the 240V supply to the lights, or smart bulbs. It can sit in the roofspace if that's where the neutral is.
      Then use battery Zigbee buttons such as the Hue Dimmer wherever is conventient.

      The Hue dimmer switch has 4 buttons, and nice tactile feedback. You can get them to do whatever you want.

      • The problem is you're completely dependent on an external zigbee hub to turn your lights on/off. So if you're using home assistant and it crashes there's no way of turning the lights on. At least the R2 mini can be wired into a physical switch that would turn them on/off without the need for a hub.

        It's the biggest thing that's stopping me from making my regular LED downlights smart

        • +1

          So if you're using home assistant and it crashes there's no way of turning the lights on.

          gawd, no, that'd be awful. Use a Hue Bridge, even with home assistant. It will be as reliable as your power supply.
          And AU wiring rules still require you to have hard power switches for each room. You can always revert to that.

  • +1

    Still looking for my best option to make my whole house with smart dimmers.
    Don't want wifi, so the Shelley is out.

    Do want to keep my current wall plates, and just swap the current switches for momentary push button dimmers. (Ideally still allowing 6 per wall plate).

    Happy to use ZigBee, zwave or possibly even Bluetooth.

    Want it to run locally and not require internet, but do want to be able to control over internet.
    Do want voice control.

    So far the closest I can find is the SAL Pixie range, but can only fit 4 dimmers per plate. (This is only a problem in 1 room, but it's a bathroom and a tiled wall).

    Anyone got any other suggestions that can help out?

    • +2

      Understand your reluctance for WiFi but I’ve just bit the bullet and ordered 20 Shelly devices from oz smart things (mostly dimmers). Have the Hager momentary slave switch - liking the tactile feel of them and the slim wall plate.
      Have a few installed as a test - has been rock solid with home assistant and HASS HomeKit bridge … have a combination of Apple devices and zigbee switches with a Conbee II stick for dimmer control. All I need now is a good rotary encoder for home assistant…

      • This switch hey? https://www.mynes.com.au/hager-electronic-push-button-slave-…

        Looks good.

        How are you going to handle dimming? Through an app only?

        What happens if your HA crashes? House stays dark until it's up and running again?

        • +1

          Yeah that’s the one.
          Press to toggle off and on to last dim setting
          Press and hold to dim down
          Press and hold again to dim up
          Double press for max brightness
          Works independent of WiFi network and home assistant- so no problem if router crashes or net goes down
          Can be tricky to get to perfect dim level - which is why I want a smart home rotary encoder. I’ve just got some hue dimmer switches (thanks ozb) integrated through home assistant which work well and can be stuck anywhere or removed and used as a remote … but a knob would still be nicer.

    • +1

      I’ve had the SAL Pixie devices installed during our recent renovations.

      The trick to fitting more in a single wall plate is that their dimmers take up a lot of space, but you can wire up those some other place (eg ceiling space or another wall plate with more room, but note they need to be accessible when initial pairing) and then instead connect the multifunction switches for the crowded plates (slimmer and just need active and neutral so you can wire them up where it suits you).

  • +1

    Look at FIBARO we sell @ Oz Smart Things. It's the most solid wireless smart home system out there. It is what we recommend to our clients and what we use for our smart home packages.

    • Sal Pixie uses Bluetooth with is renownedly bad for Home Automation.

      • Hi

        I think you have to be a bit more precise with your comment.

        I’ve been running the SAL Pixie for three months now, and they haven’t dropped a beat. I have 24 of their smart switch/dimmer mechanisms and one gateway. The Bluetooth mesh technology is sound and the pixie network spans my whole house (roughly 25m by 25m area).

        My integration is through Google Home and very satisfied with it.

        Now, if what you mean by your comment is that the Pixie cannot be used in more complex integration through systems such as Home Assistant - then yes, that is right, as per many other smart ecosystems that don’t provide an open API, but that is not a factor of the bearer technology (such as Bluetooth, which is sound).

        And I also use Home Assistant and Zigbee devices (which are meant to be more open to integration). My experience so far with those is that they are far more hit or miss (working one day, inexplicably disconnected the next). And I’ve also added repeaters and even those get flakey.

        With any system anyone purchases there will be features and limitations (with both the technology and the ecosystems). For my use case (mostly after Google Home integration, and only interested in smart switch mechanisms that fit standard wall plates, not smart bulbs) the SAL Pixie range provides a great solution.

    • Will do. I think it puts it out of budget really though.

      $100 per fibaro, plus need to buy a momentary push buttton. Plus sparky costs.

      Any idea how many fibaro i can fit behind 1 wall plate? (Clipsal iconics)

  • Do these types of switches work in the event you loose WiFi or your HA goes down? Eg would it be the same as putting a Shelly behind an existing wall plate like Clipsal Zen or Saturn?

  • +1

    How do these no-neutral switches work? By battery or running a small residual current through the light that's enough to power the switch but not produce any light?

    If the latter, then I'm guessing they would not be a good idea to use with non-dimmable LEDs or smart bulbs?

    If you connect neutral, does the switch no longer run the small/residual current through the bulb?

    The instruction manual linked on each switch page seems to be for a dimmable wifi switch rather than the zigbee model listed.

  • Any deal on switchbot please?

  • There were complaints previously about a buzz or electrical hum from these. Is this still an issue?
    Also complaints of the glass falling off

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