This was posted 5 years 1 month 22 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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SONOFF Basic 10A 2200W Wi-Fi Wireless Smart Switch US $4.72 (~AU $7.02) Delivered @ Banggood

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SONOFF Basic 10A 2200W Wi-Fi Wireless Smart Switch US $4.72 (~AU $7.02) Delivered @ BanggoodAffiliate
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aussieprepper on 01/11/2019 - 02:12 banggood.com (626 clicks)
Last edited 01/11/2019 - 08:07 by 2 other users
This post contains affiliate links. OzBargain might earn commissions when you click through and make purchases. Please see this page for more information.

Hey folks found this deal in a Banggood email, Seems like a decent price? Not sure if people are still using these or have you all moved up to a better product?
It should come up as $7.02 with shipping and GST just remove the insurance and risk it lol.

Features
.Supports WiFi network.
.Supports status tracking: device status timely provided to the EWeLink.
.Supports remotely turn on or off connected appliance/light.
.Supports max 8 enabled scheduled/countdown/loop timers for each device.
.Supports numerous WiFi smart switches on one smartphone.
.Works with Amazon Echo, Echo Dot, Amazon Tap
.Works with Google Home, Google Home Mini, Google Nest
.Works with IFTTT

Referral Links

Referral: random (125)

Referee gets $2 in coupons. Referrer gets 10% off (if referee spends over US$10)

Electrical & Electronics Smart Plug Wi-Fi Wireless Switch

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closed Comments

  • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 06:30
    +1

    Can you use these in Australia yet?

    • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 06:58
      +1

      Of course you can use them!

      • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 07:07
        +1

        do you have a link to their Australian certification?

        • smartazz104 on 01/11/2019 - 07:38
          +3

          Isn't certification only required if you plan to sell them in Australia?

          • Ameowzon on 01/11/2019 - 09:08
            +7

            @smartazz104: Insurance

            • smartazz104 on 01/11/2019 - 09:31
              +1

              @Ameowzon: Insurance would find a way to avoid a payout no matter what -_-

              • Ameowzon on 01/11/2019 - 09:34
                +2

                @smartazz104: Well, make their job harder!

                • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 11:47

                  @Ameowzon: You mean easier, easier to deny the insurance then to approve it. Alot less paperwork for them

                  • staunts on 01/11/2019 - 18:55
                    +2

                    @asa79: I have these. I too was worried so contacted my insurer. Unfortunately, whilst they will cover the cost of the house and contents ($600k+) if there was a fire, they would not necessarily cover the cost of the device ;)

                    So I have a few of these now and they work great.

                    • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 20:04
                      +1

                      @staunts: Did you say that you did your own electrical to hook it up, or did you just say i have a sonoff?

                      • staunts on 05/11/2019 - 07:59

                        @asa79: I didn’t actually mention who wired it up. In my case I had a mate do it who is an electrician just to be sure. Would do the next myself.

                        It’s a good point though. Not sure what insurer would say if you did it yourself.

  • spy on 01/11/2019 - 07:02

    For my hot water wall switch?

    • rdhupar on 01/11/2019 - 07:29

      Is it less than or equal to 10 amps?

      • Chandler on 01/11/2019 - 10:31

        Isn't it basically illegal for consumer appliances to pull more than 10 amps (2400 Watts), since that's all your (normal) wall sockets are rated to.

        • rdhupar on 01/11/2019 - 10:39

          Hot water systems, I would imagine would need more power and you can get higher amp wall sockets e.g., ovens, etc

          • Chandler on 01/11/2019 - 14:10

            @rdhupar: Apologies - yes, ovens etc and (some) hot water systems would use more, but you're (generally) not going to be attaching a sonoff to them.

            I also wouldn't (personally) be calling an oven or hot water system a consumer appliance; but that's just me.

            • chyawala on 04/11/2019 - 08:58

              @Chandler: There are 15 amp sockets and leads.

              • Chandler on 04/11/2019 - 09:59

                @chyawala: Most people don't have 15 amp sockets in their houses - yes, there are always exceptions, and TBH some of said exceptions are likely the type of people who would be looking at Sonoffs/smart plugs.

        • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 12:56

          What are you on about, Ovens and Cooktops are usually anywhere from 10 amps - 40 amps, which is why they are hardwired like a hot water system as they use similar amp as air con systems

          • Chandler on 01/11/2019 - 14:11

            @asa79: Correct. But as per the second half of my comment, I was referring to appliances connected via wall socket.

            • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 14:19
              +2

              @Chandler: It sounds more like he's meaning the wall switch which is usually associated to booster for hot water

              • Chandler on 01/11/2019 - 17:10

                @asa79: And this is what I get for not reading the top level comment correctly… facepalm

                • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 20:04
                  +1

                  @Chandler: the booster is hardwired and usually not a 10a

              • spy on 02/11/2019 - 04:13

                @asa79: Yes this.

  • rdhupar on 01/11/2019 - 07:30

    Just bought a few and wanted to control lights in my home by attaching it to the light wall switch… Anyone with experience doing it? Anything to be aware of? Any advice/suggestions?

    • jztilly on 01/11/2019 - 07:34
      +10

      grabs popcorn

    • zorrt on 01/11/2019 - 07:51
      +3

      I'll go first in line.

      If you need advice/suggestions then you really should be calling an electrician…

    • truemana on 01/11/2019 - 07:55
      +12

      Officially should get an electrician to install these, if they are certified for domestic use in Australia.

      Unofficially, people change lights, switches and basic electrical all the time in Canada and US and the domestic electrical death rate is less there, despite loads of DIY electrical work. Personally I think it’s a crazy misuse of electricians and unnecessarily costly to homeowners, as well as making people uncomfortable and fearful of electricity. There’s entirely safe ways to do basic wiring changes such as turning power off at the board, using a meter, using the back of your hand to test, THEN making changes. Never leave exposed wiring and always secure it with finger-safe terminals and tape.

      Please don’t respond with “but the voltage is lower!” Voltage isn’t what harms you and that’s irrelevant if you touch a live wire with a higher ampacity circuit, as they are in 110V systems. The legislation in AU is ridiculously nanny-state.

      • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 08:38
        +4

        Sorry, but you've got the current and voltage thing pretty wrong!

        Yes, it's current that kills you, not voltage, however, V = I*R, voltage = current * resistance. Your body can be assumed to be a linear load, meaning that it has a constant resistance. So if you halve the voltage and rearrange the equation to I=V/R, you'll see that you also halve the current.
        I still would not want to be shocked by 110V, but it's definitely less dangerous than 230V.

        • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 09:36
          +4

          Wow, Ohm's Law is not popular on here!

        • bargaino on 01/11/2019 - 10:28
          +5

          Spludgey is 100% correct, so a pity about the anonymous negs.

          However I also totally agree with truemana, except for that technical detail over volts/amps.

          As Orionn pointed out, NZ is the same as us except for allowing DIY, and there is no evidence the ban is helpful.

          It might help if people understood how electricity kills or mains. There are two ways:
          - large amounts of energy (volts x amps x time) causing burns.
          - a small current through the heart can cause cardiac arrest, but it has to be sustained, not momentary.

          This can happen when someone holds a live object such as a pipe or handle, muscles spasm, and they are unable to let go.
          The small exposed contacts in an electrical switch or stripped ends of wires are much less of a hazard, as they rarely make sustained contact.
          But there are still cases of people getting zapped, falling off the ladder, and getting a fatal head injury.

          As it turns out, in practice, 110V is not that much safer. But yes, ohms law applies.

        • truemana on 01/11/2019 - 10:28

          No. That’s not how household appliances and circuits work.

          You have the same power output between countries, such as washing machines and lights. But, the voltage is halved so the current has to be doubled, therefore so are the circuit breakers. Therefore, if you happen to short out a circuit through your body on a house you will be exposed to twice the potential current spike before the breaker opens, assuming it’s a L-N short.

          Not that it matters, since it only takes mA to stop your heart anyway so both systems are essentially equally deadly anyway.

          Source: Elec eng, industrial field commissioning that’s been zapped a few times.

          • bargaino on 01/11/2019 - 10:37
            +2

            @truemana: Yes and no.
            Your body will not draw enough current to trip the breakers, so that part is irrelevant.
            American washing machines have motors with lower resistance, they draw more current. But American humans do not.

            Hopefully the circuit has RCDs, which whatever the voltage, will trip before your heart is stopped.

            If you grab hold of a live pipe, and cannot let go, it might take, say 12 seconds to do serious damage at 110V and 3 seconds at 240V. Or never at 48V - it is not linear.

          • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 12:32
            +1

            @truemana: "You have the same power output between countries, such as washing machines and lights. But, the voltage is halved so the current has to be doubled, therefore so are the circuit breakers"

            They only have the same power (and twice the current) because the internal resistance (or rather impedance), is lower in the US for the appliance to what it is here. If you tried plugging an Australian heater into an American outlet, it would only produce a quarter of the output, as you'd have half the voltage and, given the same impedance, half the current.

      • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 10:26
        +7

        On a different note, I don't think that anyone should be allowed to play with electricity, but I do believe that the bar should be substantially lowered. I think they should bring back limited electrical licences and introduce something like home electrical licences, that allow you to do certain tasks at home. You'd still have to attend a say 10 week night time (or weekend) TAFE course to be deemed qualified.

        I think that would be a sensible solution.

        • truemana on 01/11/2019 - 10:30
          +6

          Yeah - don’t get me wrong, not everyone should be allowed by default but there should be some training. I just think about how we treat home car mechanical work with zero licensing yet there’s this crazy high bar for electrical. You can replace your own car brakes 100% legally, for example.

        • DivZero on 01/11/2019 - 11:21
          +3

          So much agree with this. I'd be happy to do a TAFE course to get certified in changing my own powerpoints and lightswitches. Maybe anything on the house side of the breaker box (ie. adding a new breaker touches the supply side, so you need an electrician).

          I can't sell my services. I can't do work in someone else's house or a house I'm renting. But if I own it, then it's MY DAMN HOUSE.

        • bargaino on 01/11/2019 - 13:07
          +1

          I don't think that anyone should be allowed to play with electricity,

          When I was still a teen, I was buying parts from Jaycar and building my own power supply.
          There is a big difference between making your own gadgets, and working on fixed household wiring.

          You want to ban hobbies? I suppose that is already happening with chemistry and rocketry.
          Remember chemistry sets? Real ones I mean, not the sad versions they now have, that almost nobody buys.

      • outlander on 01/11/2019 - 12:38
        +1

        Lot of misinformation in this thread, tells me that maybe people shouldn't be doing their own electrical work.

        But then having seen some of the work that qualified electricians get away with.. it's probably not going to be any worse.

    • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 07:58
      -5

      What did your Electrician say?

      • Thrifty McGifty on 01/11/2019 - 08:20
        +8

        New Zealand, who share all our electrical standards, allow you to do most of your own electrical work. A cynic might say their legislators weren't beholden to the electrical workers union.

        • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 08:21
          -7

          Guess that will stand up against your insurance company when they deny your claim ;)

      • Radiopej on 01/11/2019 - 09:52

        Ring-ding-ding-ding-dingeringeding!
        Gering-ding-ding-ding-dingeringeding!
        Gering-ding-ding-ding-dingeringeding!

      • truemana on 01/11/2019 - 10:32

        I’ve got a sparky mate that helps me on the important stuff. I’m an elec eng with field commissioning exp so I otherwise respect that there’s light switches, and then there’s safe practice and proper grounding.

    • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 08:34
      +1

      Yep, it's generally pretty easy. The only annoying thing is that you can't use the switch to toggle the output. So for the light to be on, the Sonoff has to be "on" and the light switch has to be on.
      Obviously install the Sonoff downstream of the switch, so it always has power.

      • cplagz on 01/11/2019 - 08:54
        +1

        Not true, if you want to solder you can use the gpio14 pin headers to use a switch to control the onboard relay.

        Another option is just buy a sonoff mini which already has terminals for gpio14 AND DIY mode for easy flashing of Tasmota/esphome etc

        There is an Australian cert for sonoff mini I think it's okitech or someone on eBay sells them.

        • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 09:00

          Yes, I had a play with that, but then you've still got to switch it twice and from memory, it might put you into the alternate boot mode if you have a blackout or a brownout, which is a bit annoying.

          • cplagz on 01/11/2019 - 09:02
            +1

            @RubenM: I'm using one to send mqtt message with dry contact to power smart downlight on/off only have to turn Physical switch on or off…using Tasmota, but you have to change the switch mode

            • RubenM on 01/11/2019 - 09:05

              @cplagz: Cheers. So far I've been too lazy to use Tasmota, as I like the simple integration into Google home. Though I do have a spare Raspberry Pi lying around…

              If I ever get some time to tinker, I might give it a go.

              • cplagz on 01/11/2019 - 09:07

                @RubenM: It's pretty easy, I haven't touched Google Home side yet but I'd never use ewelink and connect to cloud servers from a Chinese based product /tinfoil hat on\ and I like having local control if you lose internet

                • klaw81 on 01/11/2019 - 09:58
                  +1

                  @cplagz: The basic Sonoff switches have updated firmware available and can now operate on LAN only, but you still have to register them with the eWeLink cloud service first.

        • Chandler on 04/11/2019 - 15:38

          There is an Australian cert for sonoff mini I think it's okitech or someone on eBay sells them.

          Link for the lazy:
          https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/oikhomeaut_0

          Certificate can be found here: https://equipment.erac.gov.au/Public/Profiles.aspx?Applicati…

          Although I noted that the certificate specifies the model "Sonoff POW" not the "Sonoff POW R2" so not sure if they've updated their certificate for the new version (or if they even need to…?)

    • cplagz on 01/11/2019 - 08:59
      +2

      The sonoff needs L+N, the relay output feeds L+N to the light, your switch then becomes a dry contact to gpio14. Unfortunately if you have "builders wiring" like most Aus homes to make it work you would need to pull another cable from light to switch. Our switches usually have an active incoming and a loop out to the light, these are designed to have L+N at the switch point if you want to use the switch itself to control the light without de-powering the sonoff when the switch is off (any automations etc won't work then)

      • truemana on 01/11/2019 - 10:33
        +2

        To add to this, the switch basically is about 3.3V switching and the relay on the sonoff controls the 220V circuit.

      • bargaino on 01/11/2019 - 13:12

        Best case is if you have ceiling lamps that plug into a socket in your roof-space.
        Then you can add the sonoff in series with the lamp, without modifying the fixed wiring.

        Remember what happened during the federal roof-insulation fiasco, and turn off power before going into the roofspace.

        • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 14:21

          That was more associated with dodgy electrician, and electrical practises not followed, like running wires correctly, where they wouldnt be stapled into when laying aluminum foil.

  • wallet72 on 01/11/2019 - 07:57
    +8

    I made short extension leads out of these so I could use normal appliances without modifying anything. They work great, and are really easy to get set up with Google or Amazon.

    I also bought the temperature sensor model, I use that on a pedestal fan in my bedroom - it turns itself off when the room temp gets back to a certain temp - very handy.

      • wallet72 on 01/11/2019 - 08:04
        +3

        You can get a sparky if you want, but if you have a basic level of wiring skill these are dead simple.

        Yes, I know the legality argument etc, and if I was wiring a room I'd get a sparky, but for an extension cord I'm not going to do that.

        • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 08:12
          -8

          So guess you'll save on your insurance then ;) Since they no longer need to cover you, you don't have to pay the premiums

          • rdhupar on 01/11/2019 - 08:21
            +3

            @asa79: I read up about this and a number of insurance providers including Allianz will cover your home, just not the device.

            • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 08:25
              -5

              @rdhupar: Incorrect, as its classed as illegal electrical work which is an automatic void of insurance. Dont get me wrong i'm sure all insurance love paying out when they dont have to ;)

              https://www.worksafe.qld.gov.au/injury-prevention-safety/ele…

              What is electrical work?
              Under section 18 of the Electrical Safety Act 2002 (the Act), electrical work includes "the manufacturing, constructing, installing, testing, maintaining, repairing, altering, removing, or replacing of electrical equipment".

              This covers tasks such as installing a new power point, replacing a light switch, replacing a batten holder with a new light fitting, repairing an appliance such as a heater, altering the location of an existing power point, replacing a light fitting with a ceiling fan, or constructing an extension lead and replacing a plug on the end of a lead.

              • outlander on 01/11/2019 - 12:45

                @asa79: People negging you, but its a real concern.

                You can do you're own electrical, plumbing, construction etc and save money, but bear the increased risk.
                Or you can get insurance.

                If insurance companies can avoid paying you $250K for a replacement house by pointing a finger, at anything, they will. I wouldn't trust an insurance company to pay up easily if there was nothing suspicious at all. Trying to claim it on a house with DIY works… would be nerve wracking to say the least.

            • asa79 on 01/11/2019 - 08:26
              -1

              @rdhupar: https://www.youi.com.au/youi-news/will-diy-electrical-work-a…

              So what is classed as electrical work? Basically, it’s any work involving electricity, such as:

              Installing a power point
              Replacing a light switch
              Repairing an electrical appliance
              Replacing a plug on a lead
              Installing a ceiling fan
              Rewiring a room
              Installing an air conditioner.

              So that basically leaves you with changing light bulbs and putting the lights on the Christmas tree. Any other work involving electricity must be done by a licensed electrician. This is not just because DIY electrical work is illegal and could void your home insurance, but because it could kill you and endanger your loved ones — and that simply isn’t worth the risk.

              • rdhupar on 01/11/2019 - 08:58
                +2

                @asa79: Understand your sentiments mate…not saying it is legal but there are plenty of things that are illegal but safe…..I feel the world is becoming a nanny state. I am not promoting doing electrical work but if you know what you are doing, then this offers a good option for converting your existing home into a smart home.

        • eug on 01/11/2019 - 21:26

          You can get a sparky if you want

          Sounds like asa79 is a sparky. ;)

  • Dealking on 07/11/2019 - 07:47

    Thanks Op! Got one for AUD 6.95. I first removed the insurance and then added it back again, but the system seems to be buggy and my final confirmation does not include insurance. Hope it gets delivered.

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