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Opus BT-C3100 V2.2 Nimh/Li-Ion DreamCharger $26.99 USD (~$36.36 AUD) Delivered @ GearBest

190
Opus BT-C3100 V2.2 Nimh/Li-Ion DreamCharger $26.99 USD (~$36.36 AUD) Delivered @ GearBest
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Captain Howdy on 20/03/2017 - 09:58 gearbest.com (783 clicks)
Last edited 21/03/2017 - 22:56 by 1 other user
KAZUSC31

Great price at $26.99 USD (~$36.36 AUD) + 4% cashback@Cashrewards => $34.90 AUD. Cheapest here previously was $46.29 AUD.

Get those Eneloops workin'! This is a very well regarded smart charger. Compares great with the La Crosse and Nitecore units posted here. If anything, it's superior in many many ways. Lots of useful modes including the ability to diagnose your batteries health. Most importantly maybe it's a multi-chemistry charger: it will charge NiCd, NiMh and Li-ion batteries - a very desirable feature!

  • 4 independent charging slots charge rechargeable batteries of different types and sizes and with different capacities at the same time
  • 5 different modes:
    CHARGE: Charge battery with 200 to 1000 (2000) mA.
    DISCHARGE: Discharge battery with 200 to 1000 mA (700 for NiMH).
    DISCHARGE REFRESH: Discharge and charge the battery 3 times.
    CHARGE TEST: Charge, discharge and charge the battery, show how much current was discharged.
    QUICK TEST: Measure the internal resistance of the battery.
  • Charging current can be selected to be 200mA, 300mA, 500mA, 700mA or 1000mA ( 1500mA and 2000mA can be applied when only slot 1 or 4 is selected ). Default discharging current is 500mA
  • Integrates the minus delta voltage ( -ΔV ) for NiCd or NiMh batteries charging termination, and for Li-ion batteries charging to 4.2V with pre-selected constant current. ( 3.7V Li-FeO4 and 4.35V high voltage batteries charging mode can be selected through switch on board )
  • Easy-to-read LCD with back light showing battery Voltage, Charge / Discharge Current, Charging Time, Battery Capacity, etc.
  • Includes overheat detection to protect rechargeable batteries and charger itself from overheating
  • Designed for AA ( LR6 ) and AAA ( LR3 ）NiCd, NiMH or 3.7V Li-ion rechargeable batteries in size type of 18650, 14500, 16340, 10440, also compatible with 10340, 18650, 26650, 26500 ( printed on the package ) and 17670, 18490, 17500, 17335 ( printed on the product )

Reviews:

CandlePowerForums Note this is for V2.1
BudgetLightForum
AussieVapers

Video Review

Best Battery Charger Opus BT-C3100 v2.2

Note: Be aware this doesn't have an Australian plug, so either request an adapter in the checkout process (usually free), or use an existing one you have lying around.

Also, if you're intending on signing up and buying, I have a referral link if anyone wants to use it (after a certain number of successful referral purchases, I get this product free): http://www.gearbest.com/chargers/pp_173012.html?vip=1076928

Pretty sure this is a flash sale, so not sure on expiry. First in, best dressed.

Oh, and finally - yes, it's better than the Telsta charger ;p

Electrical & Electronics Battery Charger Opus

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closed Comments

  • strangeloops66 on 20/03/2017 - 10:19
    +1

    I should have gone to Specsavers - read it as "Optus" and was confuzzled temporarily.

    • Captain Howdy on 20/03/2017 - 10:23
      +1

      Me too. As I mentioned, is is better than the Telsta charger. I will submit it can't match a good Voafone one however… :D

      • strangeloops66 on 20/03/2017 - 10:26

        Geez, I'm not having a good day - missed the Telstra reference - thought you were trying to type Tesla :(

      • suburbanmale on 20/03/2017 - 10:50

        Badum tish.

    • tessel on 20/03/2017 - 12:01

      Same. I was like Optus wtf?

  • garage sale on 20/03/2017 - 11:09
    +1

    It's a 3 amp plug pack …. You you either bend the pins or buy a 12v 3 amp AU plug pack.

    Else it's a good charger for the money I own one.

    • Captain Howdy on 20/03/2017 - 11:17

      What do you use personally? I'm planing on using a Kogan travel adapter I got with a phone - that'd suffice?

  • chuneeperformance on 20/03/2017 - 11:13

    Would this charge the Arlo size batteries? I have a charger but the batteries are too small so wondering if this will do?

    • bargainparker on 20/03/2017 - 11:34

      Are they rechargeable? Most of these batteries are just non rechargeable ones. If they are rechargeable, you could probably use an adapter to make them fit. Since Opus is smart charger it would know when they are full.

      But you better ask on one of those forums to be sure whether they are safe to charge even if you could put them in as it is not mentioned in the description. Better be safe than sorry, especially with Li-Ions.

    • Captain Howdy on 20/03/2017 - 11:42

      There's some people here discussing it: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/31947?page=5

      It seems you can, but it depends on what kind. I'd read up more on it. From what I was looking at some people don't recommend getting these type of batteries in rechargeable form. Seems there have been a couple cases of them exploding.

  • soymeat on 20/03/2017 - 13:03

    Can anyone who knows this stuff well comment on how this compares to the Nitecore D4?

    • llama on 20/03/2017 - 18:15

      It's better. Analyses / discharges, higher current (I think).

      • Tuba on 20/03/2017 - 22:50

        IMO the D4 is better quality. This has more functions, mostly that you dont need as a user of batteries. If you want to test batteries, to post results on forums etc, the Opus hasit over the D4, if you want a charger to charge batteries, buy the better quality D4.

        These things have had a chequered past. They are good for torch and vape nutters, but really not the cleanest electronically of designs. For the price, you do get a lot of charger analyser though in smallish form factor. Good ones arent awful.

        • llama on 21/03/2017 - 00:56
          +1

          Analysing and testing batteries is actually extremely important.

          Over my Christmas break I tested every single rechargeable battery in my home, both for capacity and for internal resistance. I even did the NiCDs in the solar lights.

          From those tests I labelled each with the performance, then reassigned all the old NiMH into the solar lights, and pretty much chucked about 3/4 of the NiCDs (including many almost new ones).

          I have lots of batteries that look identical but perform very differently. Knowing "good" from "bad" is really important, especially when using 2 \or more cells in a device.

        • Tuba on 21/03/2017 - 21:54

          @llama: Short answer is no its not important in any way the OPUS helps. And we are talking charging and usage, not the internals of the chargers. The OPUS misses terminations more than the Nitecore too, and OPUS quality control is inconsistent but we wont get into that.

          Long answer, your understanding is a little dangerous in regard Lithium types, and for the other chemistries its really not all that important. 2 or more only matters if they are in series as this is when the dud battery will suck the guts out of the good battery exceeding its c rate leading the good battery to thermal cascade (li ion anyway, nimh doesnt matter so much). In parallel its of little consequence except run time. And even if running in series youre supposed to balance charge to avoid the complications of different battery condition, the OPUS does not balance charge, you have to assume from the data you do have. Chargers like a couple hundred dollar iCharger balance charge, I have one of those. Laptop batteries and other commercially available packs have balance circuitry inside them for that reason. When out of balance the pack dies. Yet only one battery is truly stuffed. The circuit is preventing the good batteries from exceeding their c rate reverse charging the dead one.

          Another problem with the OPUS is the much loved 'restore' over discharged batteries, which is dangerous and can cause cascade. A small stalagmite/tite like structure (a dendrite) starts to form inside cells within the battery when we abuse li ion and over discharging is abuse. Not much is known about them, but thats changing. What is known is sooner or later these dendrites pierce the membrane in the batteries between the cells, shorting it, and thermal cascade results. Does it happen all the time? no obviously or we wouldnt be having the conversation. But you dont want to be the one it does happen too, and it does happen. And that is too complex for most people which I'll explain below, but its why the lights that use li ion while theyve been around for a long time, arent available everywhere torches are sold still. Im not even going to make this longer by addressing the poor storage habits it encourages, suffice to say it does. There is real danger in misuse of the batteries, and this OPUS encourages continued 'restoration' of abused batteries.

          Have a link on dendrites… http://www.electronicproducts.com/Power_Products/Batteries_a…

          I would have tossed the nicd anyway.

          Im kind of aware regarding chargers and li ion. Im no guru, or electrical engineer though but I was active in the arenas where these chargers, and various battery chemistries are commonly discussed in anal detail by muggles like me, and experts and everything in between. I have a vast array of VTC5s, HEIIs, 25Rs along with various 14500s and 16340s. Easy 60 nimh Eneloops, Eneloop Pros, Fujitsus and Ikea Ladda (same as Eneloop Pros). Id been active on the type of forums often linked on these deals, including this deal, for several years, including when these chargers were first released. I recall at the time the consensus among the guys with the skill to design drivers etc was these were crude. Lots of features, price was good dont get me wrong, and they had interesting things for the price point. In the right hands, a cheap method of analysing but if what Ive said above isnt clear, the right hands are important. But most avid collectors with understanding of electronic design on those forums wanted to wait for the SkyRC version (no idea if they ever released it) as the electrical design in these is crude. But the SkyRC was going to be 3 times the price.

          If you read the links, you will see why quality batteries matter (chemistry of the various parts), quality chargers like the Nitecore that use quality circuitry and design matter. The rest is wank, unless you run li ion in series when you need balance capability.

          If all that isnt enough, every time you run the refresh function it discharges the battery 3 times. Thats 3 cycles of use, from a life of around 500. If you did it every recharge, it would waste 2/3 of its cycles. Point being, its wasteful and in the end doesnt do whats needed for series anyway. They are still not balanced. If I want to discharge, I could just use it in a device, and then recharge it.

          And even with all that, OPUS, created a dud v number of the BC3100, which was corrected with a new v number but indistinguishable from the dud. They also refused to deal with people that had the known dud. Well, under pressure certain members of certain forums got some satisfaction after much embarrassment.

          Complexity is because very few people take batteries seriously. They are used to grabbing any old AA from a remote or whatever, mixing it with an alkaline from a drawer (condition unknown), and dropping it in the torch because they need light. In the past, the worst that happens is next time you grab the torch the abuse lead to the alkaline becoming an alkaleak. Li ion, is far less forgiving. If only using it for mimh, why bother? As for nicd, I threw them out with candles.

        • llama on 22/03/2017 - 18:20

          @Tuba:

          Your Long post gets a longer response from me…

          Short answer is no its not important in any way the OPUS helps

          An analysing charger allows somebody like me with many 10's (hundreds?) of cells of various ages to work out the good from the bad. Do you realise that there is no other way?

          Long answer, your understanding is a little dangerous in regard Lithium types,

          Well, I wasn't even talking about Lithium. Perhaps read again?

          2 or more only matters if they are in series as this is when the dud battery will suck the guts out of the good battery

          Errrr… wrong.

          Consider the case of when there are multiple batteries (eg: a camera with 2 x AA Eneloops) - it certainly does matter to put 2 GOOD ones in there if you want maximum capacity. Think about what will happen if you chuck one 1200mAh and one 2400mAh in there together - the total available capacity will be about 2400mAh (set by the poorest cell), rather than the total of all cells. That's because once the 1200mAh cell is "dead" the camera will shut off, despite still having a 1/2 charged 2400mAh cell inside it.

          Even more importantly, an old NiMH battery (eg: think early Energizer 2600mAh) might have 2000mAh capacity, yet the Internal Resistance has increased to hundreds of milliohms. Those batteries cannot sustain voltage in high current situations like cameras, and will demonstrate incredibly poor performance, yet would be perfectly fine in a solar light, clock or remote control.

          Knowing capacity and Internal Resistance is THE key to knowing if the batteries are good or bad. There is no other way of knowing battery capacity unless you test for battery capacity (go figure).

          the OPUS does not balance charge, you have to assume from the data you do have

          Well, of course not. It's a multi-bay single cell charger, just the same as the Nitecore D4 and almost every other single cell charger. In fact, the whole idea of these kinds of chargers is that the bays are independent, so that the capacity and chemistry can be mixed (hence the exact opposite of balance charging).

          Another problem with the OPUS is the much loved 'restore' over discharged batteries, which is dangerous and can cause cascade

          Well, I am unsure what you are referring to there (and it's not something mentioned in the Opus instruction manual). Perhaps you are confused by the REFRESH function, which is used to restore capacity of (shallow-discharged) NiCDs. However that's not something that anybody would bother using on a Lithium battery that doesn't suffer from "memory effect".

          A small stalagmite/tite like structure (a dendrite) starts to form inside cells within the battery when we abuse li ion and over discharging is abuse. Not much is known about them, but thats changing. What is known is sooner or later these dendrites pierce the membrane in the batteries between the cells, shorting it, and thermal cascade results.

          Well that's nice, however not really relevant to battery chargers. When doing a discharge test on a 3.7V L:ithum, the Opus ONLY EVER runs it down to 2.9 Volts. That is not considered "over-discharging" so I have no idea why you might be making these strange comments that insinuate a product fault.

          I would have tossed the nicd anyway

          NiCD chemistry is quite perfect for a solar light which would be lucky to put 500mAh into the cell each day and discharges the cell to about 0.9V before cutoff. I am certainly not going to waste money buying Eneloops into my 20 or 30 solar lights, and even if I did it would make precisely ZERO difference to their performance anyway. Furthermore, even if all of the solar lights used NiMH, the cells still age and lose capacity.

          In the right hands, a cheap method of analysing but if what Ive said above isnt clear, the right hands are important

          There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING that the Opus discharge testing can do that will IN ANY WAY harm any battery. All it does is use the battery and keep track of how many mWh has flowed. That's it, the exact thing that batteries are designed to do(you know, same as discharging them during use?).

        • llama on 22/03/2017 - 18:25

          @Tuba:

          (my continued rantings)

          If you read the links, you will see why quality batteries matter (chemistry of the various parts), quality chargers like the Nitecore that use quality circuitry and design matter. The rest is wank, unless you run li ion in series when you need balance capability.

          Unfortunately, most forums are full of wannabe (vvankers) who pride themselves in their regurgitated 733t knowledge yet wouldn't know shit from clay. For example, if you hang out in the Audio forums, you'll know that the "quality" of copper in mains power cables is fundamental to maximising sonic performance of amplifiers. And of course, you won't get proper colour gamut on your TV if you don't use a "high quality" $300 HDMI cable.
          Sadly, not everything you read on the internet is true!

          The rest is wank, unless you run li ion in series when you need balance capability.

          Did you know that a fundamental lack of understanding is commonly created by hanging out in flashlight forums too long? They don't even spread technically or scientifically correct information about LEDs and Lighting (eg: what is a "tint"?), so I'd guess batteries are also amazingly complicated and mysterious for them.

          If all that isnt enough, every time you run the refresh function it discharges the battery 3 times. Thats 3 cycles of use, from a life of around 500.

          Oh really? Did you know that doing head cleaning on a Bubble Jet printer will cause ink to get used up? Whilst some might consider that advice to be a revelation, common sense allows most people to think "well, derr".

          Point being, its wasteful and in the end doesnt do whats needed for series anyway. They are still not balanced. If I want to discharge, I could just use it in a device, and then recharge it.

          After reading that comment, I feel that you are completely confused about the whole thing - correct?
          1. Nobody normally runs the "Refresh" function of Opus chargers on Lithium cells.
          2. Everyone knows that the Opus (and N4 and…) don't perform balance charging. I am unsure why you keep going on about that.
          3. The purpose of "Refresh" function is to Discharge > Recharge > Discharge > Recharge > Discharge > Recharge automatically. This saves you from charging then discharging manually!
          4. "Refresh" is for NiCD cells that have been used in devices that have NOT discharged them fully, and hence reduced the capacity of them.
          5. PS: It only works on NiCD, so it's not for Lithium cells. Oh, and it doesn't balance charge either.

          And even with all that, OPUS, created a dud v number of the BC3100, which was corrected with a new v number but indistinguishable from the dud.

          Hardly "indistinguishable" - the Firmware revision shows on screen at time of booting (power up). Anyway, the "dud version" you speak about was an early model that was updated almost immediately to improve performance after the community found it less than perfect. That all happened during 2014… and we are now in 2017, and I'd guess that this deal is probably not for the 2014 model eh?

          In the past, the worst that happens is next time you grab the torch the abuse lead to the alkaline becoming an alkaleak.

          Putting batteries into a torch is hardly "abuse". PS: It is Carbon Zinc batteries that most commonly leak, and in any case they leak when they go flat, not when they are mixed with other chemistries.

          Li ion, is far less forgiving.

          People who use Lithium batteries like 18650's already know all that stuff. They aren't "consumer batteries" and can only be bought in specialised stores. And that's why the battery chargers for Li Ion batteries automatically deal with all that complicated stuff. That, in fact, is the whole point of buying such a charger - you don't even have to press a button, it's all automatic!

          If only using it for mimh, why bother?

          Simple: Because knowing the storage capacity of NiMH cells is really helpful. As batteries age, their capacity drops - did you know that Lithium cells also lose capacity as they age?

          Perhaps you could explain something? Without using a way to determine capacity and performance, how would you select your "top 10" cells when you needed them?

        • Tuba on 22/03/2017 - 20:32

          @llama: So much ignorant wrong, and countless straw men. I cant be arsed with it all.

          SO you need a tester to tell if your battery is good or not? I find that if I stick a battery in a device, and it doesnt work for long, but another battery does last long its likely the first battery is compromised. You sound like one of these cheapskates that hoard old batteries to eek the last bit out of them. Seems I dont need a tester, just a brain. But you know, if you dont have one, use the other.

          Putting batteries into a torch is hardly abuse? LOL. Thats not what was said, MIXING OLD AND NEW batteries is abuse but Im not surprised that didnt stand out to you, but if you had a genuine clue it would have stood out. Read the packet of any Energizer etc, it even says do not mix old and new. It is in fact this aspect that you claimed was the importance of knowing each battery, and thus the features of the OPUS. But alas, it only matters with Li ion, and they need balance. But on that mixing of old and new, all it MIGHT do when ignored with non rechargeable alkalines and carbon zinc (who the hell is still using this crap) is cause leakage. And Alkalines, among people with electrical engineering degrees, call them alkaleaks, so your carbon zinc comment is clutching at straws.

          You cant read for squat and you sure as hell cant comprehend. Clearly I know lithium age, I said 500 cycles and that would be a hint. Its not rocket science. And there is little reason to fear NIMH all the dancing about is as I said, WANK. I stand by my comment, the Nitecore is much better as a charger than the OPUS. Its superior in every aspect of electrical design and component. The missing functions, are as I said, WANK.

          Wait, you think guys with electrical engineering degrees, that take a $10 torch and make it better than a $400 torch, design drivers for said torch, you know, tiny pcbs they have custom made with components and chips they program themselves etc, dont understand? LOL, youre hilarious. Whats your problem with tint?

          On the over discharge confusion, you have. I never said the charger over discharges. "OVER DISHCHARGED BATTERIES, can be bought back to life". I didnt say the discharge feature over discharged, I said the charger has a feature, they use it to sell it, that it can recondition or rejuvenate over discharged batteries. How bloody hard is it? THIS IS DANGEROUS, due to DENDRITES. And if youre using t for nimh, youre wasting you time. And lithium, its dangerous. Again, its at best WANK, and worst, dangerous.

          The indistinguishable version comment, was about how reliable OPUS was as a company, but again you seem to be drinking the Koolaid nicely. Nitecore are a much better company which speaks for its products. v2.2, is actually v2.22, as v2.2 originally had no such firmware change to show the different v number. I know, I was part of the group at the time.

          You need to read the manual if you think this doesnt 'refresh' Li ion.

          Parallel offers no danger, parallel just increases capacity. Series does offer dangers, look it up. Ill say it one last time, the danger posed by lithium in series is balance, and the OPUS has no ability to balance charge batteries used in series. You said, it was important to have the WANK features when charging blah blah multiple batteries in one device. I answered that, if nimh, it does not matter no matter how 'wont someone think of the children' you rant. If lithium, where series is important, you need BALANCE anyway, which it doesnt have. Get it yet? So the features it has, are WANK or DANGEROUS, and the Nitecore is a better charger by design and materials making it the ideal choice for a charger. Reread the string of posts. If your drama queen nonsense is about capacity, I refer to the ability easily know if batteries are still good or not, just use them.

          I didnt read it all, but Im fairly confident you never got a thing right. Certainly the stuff I did read was woefully ignorant and self serving bullshit.

        • llama on 26/03/2017 - 18:42

          @Tuba:

          Certainly the stuff I did read was woefully ignorant and self serving bullshit.

          Well, we agree on one thing… I read the exact same within your posts. :-D

          A few comments, just for the record.

          1. The Nitecore is probably a better charger that this Opus.

          2. The Nitecore is not a discharger nor an analyser, so the products aren't 100% comparable.

          3. I am sorry that you cannot comprehend the advantages of being able to TEST batteries and find out how well they store a charge. This is fairly simple concept for most people to understand, however it's obviously a major stumbling block for you.

          4. Rechargeable batteries do not "die" but rather they lose capacity and ability to deliver high current. Lower capability batteries are still perfectly fine for use in less-demanding applications. People don't throw away batteries that are still functional, in fact most people wouldn't even know if the cells were degraded or not… so it's really helpful to be able to determine which are your best and worst batteries.

          5. Your rantings about mixing Alkaline and Zinc, and/or mixing new and used are completely irrelevant. Those are non-rechargeable batteries, so are unsuitable for placing in a battery charger. You mentioned strawman arguments?

          6. You seem confused about the Parallel and Series connections and why it would be advantageous not to mix batteries of unequal capacities. I am sorry I cannot explain it to you.

          7. I don't know why you continually refer to the Opus charger not having the ability to do a balance charge, yet recommend the Nitecore D4 charger that ALSO cannot perform a balance charge. Is this another strawman that you were mentioning?

          8. I'm sorry you are so obsessed with the Opus's feature about "Refreshing" batteries. You repeatedly regurgitate a whole bunch of technical stuff about "dangers of Lithium" and "DENDRITES. I still cannot understand why you continue to bring that up in response to my comment about Capacity Testing of batteries.

          9. You refer to the features of the Opus as "WANK". Yet you have not made any serious argument about the disadvantage of testing the capacity of cells, which is what I was referring to in my original post.

          10. And finally this gem:

          If your drama queen nonsense is about capacity, I refer to the ability easily know if batteries are still good or not, just use them.

          Well DERRR - yes, I was posting about the ability to TEST a battery for capacity. That's all, despite your off-topic argumentative responses.

          Since batteries AGE, they inherently reduce in capacity. The number of charge/discharge cycles and/or the capacity of a battery is impossible to determine simply by picking it up and looking at it. If I had 10 x Eneloops or 10 x 18650's that were all identical, yet had different levels of usage… how would YOU know which ones were the good ones?

          "Testing by using" simply doesn't work for a huge number of reasons (that obviously that you cannot grasp). So, the ability to test and rank the cells is knowledge that is helpful to most people, despite you thinking that it is not necessary.

          There is no need to lower yourself to name calling. Despite your being confused and missing the point of the comment that I made, I have attempted to remain polite. I've spent far too long attempting to be cvil and explain where you are going off track.

          My comment was I have lots of batteries that look identical but perform very differently. Knowing "good" from "bad" is really important, especially when using 2 or more cells in a device.

          It was such a simple comment, and NOT INACCURATE in any way. Just look at all the "stuff" you have brought up to try and discredit me…. yet completely failed to respond to what I actually posted. I guess that means that you agree with me, huh? LOL

  • Checkboy on 20/03/2017 - 14:37

    I regret not buying more Eneloop's in it's golden age on Ozbargain :(

  • fenger on 20/03/2017 - 14:41

    How did you find out about the discount code?

    • Captain Howdy on 20/03/2017 - 16:54

      Someone posted it the comments of a review I was watching for it. Why?

      • fenger on 20/03/2017 - 17:14

        because it is not a posted or advertised code and it is cheaper than current sale.

  • llama on 20/03/2017 - 18:37
    +1

    ( 3.7V Li-FeO4 and 4.35V high voltage batteries charging mode can be selected through switch on board )

    NOTE: This is NOT accurate information, well it's misleading…

    The switch is on the PCB INSIDE the device, and you have to disassemble it to gain access, or cut a hole in the base so you can poke a screwdriver in and flip the switch each time.

    The smaller BT-C100 is better in that the 3.2V and 3.8V are selectable using the MODE button. However it's only a single bay.

    Currently $18.71 http://www.gearbest.com/chargers/pp_300470.html?wid=21

    I use 3 x BT-C100 for analysing/testing, and the LiitoKala Lii-202 (also rebadged as Colaier C20, Skilhunt and other brands) which are under $9 for a very good 2-slot charger. Note these LiitoKalas are awesome for Lithium, but slightly undercharge NiMH. There is a fix online, requires soldering.

    • Captain Howdy on 20/03/2017 - 19:40

      Yes, here's a pic where the switch is located.

      http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?389732-Te…

      • llama on 20/03/2017 - 20:55
        +1

        That's a pic of what it looks like AFTER somebody has cut a hole in the bottom of the case, so that they can gain access to the switch.

        This is the photo of the entire PCB and switch:
        http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?389732-Te…

        This is NOT normally accessible.

        Also, if you leave it set incorrectly then it might cause problems. For example, have it set to 3.7V then drop LifePO4 cells in there.

        Anyway, as supplied this charger does NOT suit 3.2V or 3.8V cells. It can be easily modded to do so, as per those images and providing people are willing to cut the case.

        • Captain Howdy on 21/03/2017 - 09:58

          I thought it was pretty obvious the hole in the picture was made by the end user - you'd hope so given its shape! It's a bit of a design oversight, that's for sure. Or maybe it's like you said and it's hidden away so you accidentally don't leave it switched to the wrong thing. Still, it seems a bit silly. I guess the lower price reflects these design quirks and ugly looks. For a pretty feature heavy 'all in one' charger that will suit most users needs though I think it's a good price point. Just expect some peculiarities I guess.

  • nearbyghost on 20/03/2017 - 22:19
    +1

    Great charger. Highly recommended.

  • shamwow96 on 27/03/2017 - 09:49

    Got this when I tried to checkout just then - "This coupon has reached its usage number limit" :(

    • Captain Howdy on 27/03/2017 - 13:12

      Looks like it's expired now. I'll mark it as such.

  • GnarlyKnuckles on 01/04/2017 - 00:09

    Received mine yesterday. Far and away the best charger I've ever owned. I now wish I had bought two at this bargain price (I need to provide a friend OS with a SAFE quality charger). I'll still buy a second one (I'm super-impressed with it), but now I'll have to pay a bit more for it.

    I highly recommend this charger!

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