[SURVEY] Which Car Do You Drive?

Starting this thread in hopes that it will give some ideas for those who are looking for a car (like me). If this is a dupe, please remove and mention the thread that I didn't see when I searched.

  1. Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
  2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
  3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
  4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
  5. Faults? Any major problems?
  6. Will you recommend your car?

Cheers

Comments

  • +3
    1. 2010 Ford Focus TDCi
    2. Pre-owned, private sale
    3. 11.5k cash
    4. $50/tank, gets 700km or so. 6L/100km if I drive sensibly. $300(ish) a year servicing. $1,000/year for insurance.
    5. Not yet…
    6. Yeah, it's pretty good. Being turbo diesel bumped up the cost of insurance a couple of 100 $$ a year, but damn it's much more fun to drive.
    • I have a 2014 Focus Turbo Diesel and definitely rate it too.

    • I have a 2011 Focus Ambiente automatic transmission (purchased in 2012). Bought new from a dealer.

      Major transmission problem: the infamous shuddering automatic transmission problem have now worsen and the transmission just suddenly dies (gear disengage while cruising).

      It is currently in the service center being repaired. I would recommend avoiding this particular batch.

    1. Which car do you drive? Ford, FG XR6 Lpi 2012,
    2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer, pre-owned
    3. How much did you pay for the car? $21,000, had done 20,000km
    4. Running costs? $40 for 600km, $150 service/6months, $500 comprehensive insurance
    5. Faults? none
    6. Will you recommend your car? Absolutely. 200 kw RWD, cheap to run, service and repair. But most importantly, very fun to drive.
    • +1

      May I ask you what insurance company is that? 500 seems cheap to me (I paid 600)

      • +2

        AMMI, dont renew. Always resign up from scratch as you get a $100 discount for signing up on-line.

        • +1

          Yes a new customer always gets a cheaper price! Our little fiesta was $500+ to renew but only $375 as a new insurance with NRMA!

    1. 2013 Mazda 3 (Neo) Hatchback
    2. Pre-owned' private sale
    3. $14,500 cash
    4. Average 8.9L/100km with my driving style. Only had one service so far, which was only around $200. $450 for the year for comprehensive.
    5. Nope; not yet, at least.
    6. Over my old car, definitely. Good and reliable little car; gets the job done.
    • Who is your insurer?

    • I have the same car! How many kms did you get it with?

      • +1

        Just a tad over 30,000kms when I bought it in September last year. Got just over 37,000kms on the clock now though.

  • +1

    Which car do you drive? Subaru, Outback (Premium, Diesel), 2015
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Demo
    How much did you pay for the car? $38000 Finance or cash? Finance
    Running costs? $50 gives me over 1100km, ~$300-350 for service 12000km/6 months, ~$600 comprehensive insurance
    Faults? None yet
    Will you recommend your car? Definitely! Extremely economical for its class considering it is permanent AWD, handling is superb and very comfortable for long drives.

    • Wow $50 for over 1100km is really good.
      My prius V usually covers around 700km for $50 fuel

      • The subaru diesels are very economical especially on the highway. Makes my toyota look like a coal chimney.

      • On the highway the Outback is very economical, but as an everyday car around town is the total opposite. You will get better mileage from your Prius around town than from an Outback or any other diesel car.

        • +1

          Prius is not very exciting to drive in town or on the highway.

        • @captobvious: Neither is an Outback?

        • +1

          @thorton82: you can Scandinavian flick sideways like Colin McRae in an outback and hold the drift like a pro. Do that in a Prius and you'll under steer and end up in a tree.

        • -1

          @captobvious: Yep ok sure

        • +2

          @captobvious: Colin McRae: When in doubt, flat out. What a legend!

    • Really keen on this car so cheers for replying. This or skoda scout. I want an awd wagon, NOT an suv!

  • +2
    1. 2008 Honda Accord Euro
    2. Dealer, Pre-Owned
    3. $16,000, Cash (Purchased 2014)
    4. ~700km from 65L of 95, both start/stop and freeway driving. 6 month service intervals, not sure about cost as I do it myself which ends up being relatively cheap. ~$650/year for insurance.
    5. Nothing so far.
    6. Yes if you're looking for comfort, decent handling, reliability and features.
  • +1
    1. Toyota Aurion, 2011, Touring SE
    2. Pre-owned, from a dealer, traded in by a retiree couple
    3. $15,500 cash
    4. 550km from 55L or 95, mixed driving. Can do 620+km on long freeway trips. Rego in VIC is $771/year, Insurance for me (full comp) is about $1100/yr. Maintenance is nomimal, although last service was a 90k major, so cost almost $700 ($250 for spark plugs alone)
    5. Nothing so far (touch wood)
    6. Absolutely. It's not going to make you grin like an idiot when cornering, but the engine is silky smooth, with plenty of spare power on tap. Effortless when cruising, plenty of interior and boot space, and 9-month/15,000km service intervals. Works very well as a no-nonsense A-to-B car with plenty of space for city use, power and comfort enough for long trips.
    • My full comp insurance with Youi for Toyota Aurion (2009) is 650$/year. You should seriously negotiate with your insurer as you are paying way too much!

      • My license isn't very old, plus i insure for agreed value…my renewal will be up in a month or so, I'll play them hard

      • What a stupid comment. How do you know he/she pays too much? How do you know they haven't had 5 accidents in the last two years? How do you know they don't live in a dodgy area?

        • Correct, I don't know anything about twister.

          Why put insurance into running costs in the first place when it depends on so many variables and offers no reasonable comparison at all?

  • +3

    1.Ford Fiesta ST, 2014
    2.New through dealer
    3.26k - financed
    4.Service - 270 per year (fixed), 800 for insurance and 60 for a full tank
    5.None as yet
    6.Absolutely, only if you want a 2dr hatchback.

  • +3
    1. Nissan 370z (2015)
    2. New from Macarthur Nissan
    3. 56k, cash
    4. Insurance around $1300. Fuel can get expensive due to the nature of the engine. Servicing is capped for the first 5 years.
    5. Flawless
    6. Unquestionably! This car is truly psychotic in such a good way, it's the best handling car I have ever driven in my life and I couldn't go back to driving a normal car. Mind you if you have a family and need space I wouldn't recommend this car.
    • I used to own a rx7 2x2. The only person that has ever been comfortable in the back is my legless mate.

    • Great car!

      I see that most OZBargainers drive boring cars.

      • what's your car that's not too boring?

        • Golf GTI.

          Will have a serious look at the M2 when it's released.

  • +1

    Mazda 3 SP25 2010
    Bought preowned cash
    $17000 cash
    CTP $650 Comprehensive $750. Fuel around $40 a forthnight since we dont drive much
    No problem
    Absolutely :)

    • What sort of fuel efficiency are you getting? I get around 10.5 on the trip computer but mainly inner city driving.

      It's a beautiful car to drive :)

      • Yeah i get around 10l/100kms :D But we do a lot of high way driving so :)

        • +1

          It certainly loves to suck the fuel, totally worth it though :)

        • +1

          @ShamelessBargains: I've been looking at another car but I just can't get past how good this car handle. Well for a family sedan.

          I'll try to buy an Astina next year maybe :D

        • @tomleonhart: The Astina is pretty sweet but I would probably get the Maxx/Touring of the BM series 3 as they hold their value real good and are more fuel efficient :)

    • Same car and year. When did you buy yours? I got mine last year for $11000, but my insurance is double.

      • I bought mine last year too lol. maybe because my mileage was low? it was only 25000kms when i bought it.

        • +1

          Yep, mine's closer to 90k.

        • Mine has done 120k and got it for $9k. My insurance is about the same as yours too with AAMI.

  • +2

    2010 Mitsubishi Pajero NT Model
    Purchased second hand with 25K km's on the clock. Now done 145k's
    $32000 - cash
    Service is expensive if you use Mitsu, every 15K km, local mechanic about $400 and once a year to mitsu.
    Diesel, about $90 per tank, gives me about 900 odd km, a tad under.
    No issues whatsoever, recently replaced suspension which made a big difference.
    Would happily recommend to anyone who needs a big seven seater at a fraction of the cost of a Prado.

    • I used to drive a Pajero. Good drive and gizmos, but my AC unit was buggy so after 3? fixes I let it go. Also engine oil kept getting dirty and needed changing.

  • +1
    1. 2016 Skoda Octavia Style (hatchback)
    2. Bought brand new from a dealer
    3. $40,500 (tech and comfort pack), consolidated with home loan and sold old car.
    4. Can get on average 650km for a full tank of fuel and is about $60 to fill up from empty. Rego is like $750 or so a year. Comprehensive insurance $1,100 for agreed value (I'm 24 yrs old). Capped price servicing for 6 years (intervals are once a year) which averages $390 per annum.
    5. None thus far and too early to tell except I find the road noise a little annoying :)
    6. Yes :)
    • +1

      Road noise might decrease when you get new tyres. Recently replace the tyres on my Skoda Yeti and a considerable improvement is noticeable from the factory fitted ones.

      • Thanks for that. Now I'm looking forward to replacing them!

        Mind me asking what brand tyres you got?

  • BMW 535d luxury line 2013
    Secondhand from dealer
    82k cash
    $60 a week on fuel, $1700 registration Ctp comprehensive. Maintainance around $800 a year
    No fault, yet ?
    love. Absolutely recommend it.

    • Only for those who can afford it =(

      • +1

        lol $800 maintenance a year, must be the gold leaf additive in that engine oil.

        • $800 will probably include tyres, brakes, etc..

          $800 sounds pretty reasonable to me as it's not a cheap car.

        • @JB1: TBH most of it probably goes into the labour charge @ the stealership.

          Expensive car =/= expensive maintenance

        • @Serapis:

          True, but for resale purposes, are you going to take your late model 5 series to ultratune?

        • @JB1: since car is a massively depreciating asset anyway (esp mercs), no point thinking about resale value. You would lose money anyway and maybe an extra $1000 off resale if it wasn't serviced at the stealership.

          You'll save more than that over the life of the car if you do basic service yourself or at a reputable local mechanic.

          Only purpose for stealership maintainance is warranty.

        • @Serapis:

          If I was in the market for a luxury car and saw that it was 'serviced' at home or at a non-specialist mechanic, I'd think, if they have cheapo on servicing, I'd question what else they have gone cheapo on.

          For a Toyota, I see your point of view, but let me know when you buy a $100k car and service it yourself, then at least you'd put your money where your mouth is.

    • Hey Eisvath,

      I'm thinking of buying one of these - would you recommend it over the 535i? The 0-100 is impressive as is the fuel consumption.

      I'm kind of wary of the BMW brand/reliability.

      I test drove the E350 CDI and I didn't mind it but the figures on the BMW seem to be a lot better.

      • Hey, I have a 535i m-sport 2011. I test drove both and the diesel obviously had more torque and felt more powerful. This wasnt at full throttle.

        Cant vouch for going wide open throttle though sad to say I havent even driven it hard since owning it due to the fear getting demerit points and fines.

        The fuel consumption is crazy good on the 535d, I didnt like the sound of the engine and I also read online that the diesel in Australia is too crap for high performance diesel engines, DPF problems etc. Of course all this could be just rubbish but I didnt want to take the risk.

        My 2 cents would be to actually go for 520d (and get the PPK - if they have it in AUS).
        or 528i (N20) - Smaller engine, Still has decent punch.
        or E250 CDI - If your looking at buying new as the F10 replacement will be out sooner.

        Whatever you do dont get a 520i or e200 CGI.

        Bottom line : I think there is no real point of having a performance sedan in Australia. You are better off saving that money and spending it on a weekend track car.

        • Thanks! What about 520d and 528i vs the 535i? I'd probably look for the older 528i with the N52 because I've been wary about the turbo 4's used in the E90 320i's.

        • @maybeamacy:

          E90 320i wasn't turbocharged. Engined leaked like a sieve.

  • Main Car:

    1. 2015 Hyundai Tuscon Active X Auto.
    2. Bought brand new from a dealer - picking up next week.
    3. $22,000 after trade in of 6 year old i30 wagon. Price for Tuscon incl rego/drive away was $30,500. Financing but may amalgamate with home loan next year.
    4. Fuel ok according to reviews I have read. Comprehensive insurance thru CGU for $54 a month - very pleased with that. Capped price servicing for 5 years.
    5. Previous exp with Hyundais has been good and there's a 5 year warranty for any dramas.
    6. I'll let you know! But really like the look of it.

    Second station/kid's taxi car:

    1. 1999 Toyota Corolla
    2. Bought privately a year ago for $4k cash, in great condition. The same day a dealer tried to sell us the same model and year for $7k! The one we got is in better condition too. Currently 178,000km and we are averaging no more than 5,000 per year in this car.
    3. Very cheap to run. Comprehensive cover is about $30 a month, fuel cheap as we don't do many kms.
    4. Hasn't missed a beat. One minor repair needed at last year's rego and two front tyres that I knew were on their last legs.
    5. These have a reputation for lasting forever and I've seen nothing to contradict that. This was the top of the range model at the time so has aircon, electric windows and mirrors etc - even the 90s luxury item of a 6 CD player!. Everything, absolutely everything works as it should, which is very rare in cars of this age or even much newer cars. Drives very nicely, doesn't feel like an old car.
    • Hi Brianqpr,
      We are planning on buying Tucson Active X as well.
      Wondering if you can PM me the details of the dealer alonwith the price we can negotiate?
      When is it manufactured? After 17 Nov 15?

  • +1
    1. Honda Integra GSI 1995 Manual
    2. Second hand
    3. 8 years ago for $7,300 with cash
    4. 10 litres per 100km, servicing about $130 for a standard service, insurance for third party fire and theft is about $250 a year.
    5. No major problems, have maybe spent $3500 over 8 years on servicing and fixing things
    6. Yes, very reliable, haven't had any issues in the last few years
    • You are really lucky.

      • You had a honda integra that wasn't reliable?

        • -1

          No. I never owned it, but generally such old cars have higher maintenance.

        • +1

          @StiffHindQuarters:

          Honda's are very reliable, gotta love japanese cars

    1. Audi A1 S-Line 1.8L Petrol Turbo - 2015
    2. New from Dealer
    3. $40k cash after trade in
    4. too early to say, have a corporate deal for free servicing for 3 years (all services).
    5. Not yet
    6. it's a great speedy little car!
  • +2

    Where's the Camrys at?

    • +2

      Recalled!

  • +3
    1. BMW 135i Coupe 2010
    2. Private
    3. 40k cash
    4. 12-14L/100km
      $1000 a year in servicing
      $1300 a year in insurance
    5. Leaky injectors, Misfires etc
    6. Yes for the car enthusiast, no due to maintenance cost
    • Is this the N54 or N55 engine? Do you think the same problems would appear in say a 535i or a X6 35i which both use the N55?

      • N55 is a far more reliable engine, albeit less tuneable.

        If you want power, the N54 is the easiest to extract decent power … albeit with a plethora of things that can go wrong.

      • I have the N54

        Yep, as said below the N55 is far more reliable however N54 for tune-ability

  • Which car do you drive? Mitsubishi Lancer, 2007, 2.4L 4 speed auto
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? New - dealer
    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Cash - about 22,000
    Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance approx 250 each service, sometimes about a grand. Insurance and rego/ctp together about 1500 - 2000g
    Faults? Any major problems? None - rock solid.
    Will you recommend your car? Yes for enthusiasts, but not for ozbargain. probably guzzles fuel more than a camry, but I despise cars that slow down on uphill roads.

    Which car do you drive? Chrysler 300c, 5.7L hemi
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? New - dealer
    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Cash - about 50,000
    Running costs? approx 400 each service, sometimes up to 1800. Insurance and rego/ctp together about - 2000g
    Faults? Any major problems? None - rock solid. Wiper washer tank cracked.
    Will you recommend your car? Yes for enthusiasts, but not for ozbargain. obvious gas guzzler. every owner I now loves their 300. Allegedly you can get the same comfort, performance and better fuel efficiency at about the same price in a used Beamer but there is a unique charm to essentially maneuvering a battering ram which I don't feel in Audi's/beamers.

    • +1

      That's a lot of car for 50k. And gangster… :)

    • +1

      Why the 300c? I get it is big, wide and (subjectively) pleasing to the eye. What else is the appeal? I've never been able to see it.

      • test drive one. its not for everyone, thats for sure. The interior is pretty cheap looking compared to the BMW/AUDI/Lexus, etc but it does cost a lot less than those. one of my friends said its easier to drive his truck and he means a real truck not a ute.

    • +2

      What kind of enthusiast would buy a base model Lancer?

      • THe lancer ES 2.4L 4 speed is zippier than you would think for a station/groceries run. Enthusiasts like responsive cars, especially when it jumps if the gas is slightly pressed.

        I also like the older ford focus and all the subaru's in the same range. I admit the subaru is actually a better choice and more rally-ish. Unfortunately the ignorant salesmen at those shops couldn't give a (profanity) to show me the cars.

        • -1

          What a load of bullshit.

  • +1

    Which car do you drive? 2015 Toyota 86
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Brand new
    How much did you pay for the car? $39k cash
    Running costs? $180 capped price service every 9 months/15,000 km - fuel probably around 10ish l/100km (I don't track it(. Insurance around $800 p.a annum for a 25 year old driver.
    Faults? Any major problems? No faults or problems to date
    Will you recommend your car? yes - but only if you enjoy driving

    • +1

      good resale too

      • -3

        Slow and terribly ugly tho

        • Can I ask what car you drive?

        • -1

          Slow yes, ugly, c'mon?!!!

        • @BestofOZB: I find porches ugly as well.

        • @Reality: me too. big wooden square things. Porsches on the other hand……

    • Just needs a turbo.

    1. 2009 MINI John Cooper Works Clubman

    2. Pre owned private seller

    3. Cash - $20 500

    4. Fuel maybe a tank once a fortnight/3 weeks on 98 is $40-$50. Insurance is $600/year. Servicing varies as to what it needs. Just did the 100 000km service. rear rotors, brake pads all round, spark plugs, filters and all fluids was $1300

    5. No faults….. Yet

    6. No. MINIs aren't for everyone. They are small, but are about as close to legally driving a go-kart on the road as you can get.

  • +1
    1. 2003 Ford Falcon XR8 manual
    2. Dealer used.
    3. $8500 cash
    4. High (insurance for a <25 $85 month with a ridiculous excess, 15L/100km (and that's mostly highway use!), servicing relatively cheap)
    5. No major faults. Only a few scratches caused by previous owner(s)
    6. It's a pretty good car. Great on the highway. It's a definite license loser if you don't know how to excercise restraint. Manual gearbox is a little clunky. Glad to have owned a dinosaur manual v8 as I doubt there will be many left in 20 years or so (at an affordable price anyway).
  • Chrysler 300c V6 3.5L petrol 2009

    New; dealer.

    $59,000 with satnav and sunroof, financed.

    60L tank runs 500-600km.
    Minor service $400 major $1000+.
    $500 comprehensive (discounted,we have 4 other cars and good history).

    Plastic is a bit fragile, snapped door handle ($300) and hand brake ($300), otherwise great, no mechanical issues after 140k.

    Highly recommended, great value for money (Built in HDD, heated leather seats etc); despite somehow high running cost.

    • Shows you how much cheaper cars are getting. Guy couple of posts above paid around 50k for a hemi. What a time to be alive

      • I was thinking the same thing, considering when I bought it they initially asked for $73k!

        Although the 300c used to come with full options and only missing the satnav, sunroof and reverse camera; now they have the base model with less options and you build it from there for extra, not sure if the 50k hemi had all the stuff included, if it did thats a great price.

        They screwed the look on the new models though!

  • +2
    1. Hyundai i20 Active Auto 2015
    2. Brand New from dealer @ pennant hills
    3. $12,888 Cash
    4. $35 - 400km, Haven't had a paid service yet. Insurance is $50/month with Coles. Just over 25!
    5. Everything seems really good but only driven 3000km in 6 months :(
    6. At this price, why not.
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