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E27 3W 3LED 300LM 6000K White Light High-Power LED Bulb Silver (220V) @Tmart

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E27 3W 3LED 300LM 6000K White Light High-Power LED Bulb Silver (220V) @Tmart
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zhen on 26/05/2013 - 14:38 tmart.com (494 clicks)

Just bought this LED Light Bulb $5.18 each with free shipping, cheaper than Aldi.

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  • Steptoe on 26/05/2013 - 14:54
    +1

    Chinese Lumens?

    • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 23:26

      Just so people see this first - my reason for negging is WAY down below a lot of convo - ,merimobiles are quite a bit cheaper , even for more powerful units.

      • mycosys on 27/05/2013 - 15:38

        noting the code available on their front page 'energysmart' is giving 20% off all lighting til the 30th - as noted in that comment

  • slowmo on 26/05/2013 - 15:02

    note that its 220v…

    i think australia is between 220v to 240v….

    • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 15:32
      -6

      Australia is supposed to be exactly 240V, but sadly due to poor bulding wiring (esp in buildings with multiple offices/residences), system impedences and loads nearby it frequently a fair bit lower. We used to have a real problem with it in the retail PC industry, esp one place where I worked where we did the right thing in the workshop and used folly conditioned power via fully line interactive UPS/conditioner units (partly because we had to, we had poor power ourselves) - systems would have issues in peoples places where the PSU couldnt handle the constant brownout in their place, but we would see nothing wrong with our perfect power. Whose problem is it - the PC is perfect ofc, but they expect it to work whatever their power is like. Thankfully PSUs now handle anythign from 80 to 260V so it is an issue long gone.

      • pmupsinep on 26/05/2013 - 15:54
        +6

        Australia is supposed to be exactly 240V

        LOL, no it's not. Where did you pull this rubbish from? For starters, the standard is now 230V, and all voltage specifications have a tolerance, nothing is EXACT. At the moment this tolerance range is +10%/-6%. Which means voltage can be down as low as 216v or as high as 253v and still conform to specification.

        • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 16:11

          Really dont want to argue about what is 'supposed to be', and what is within the tolerances set by standards organisations. But you are right - I am sadly a while out of date and was unaware of the change from nominal 240v to nominal 230v AS 60038 specified in 2000. I finished my training as an electronic technician that year , must have missed the memo :) Back when i WAS a lowly PC tech it WAS 240V :)
          Back then under 200V at socket wasnt all that uncommon (as we figured out) not sure it has improved

        • slowmo on 26/05/2013 - 17:12
          +2

          "all voltage specifications have a tolerance, nothing is EXACT."

          this is quite a dangerous assumption to work on. considering the website that is selling the bulbs have a category of 220v bulbs and 220-240v bulbs.

          point of my post is more about how much faith you have in the specs written on the bulb rather than the exact input voltage in australia (as i've said it's 220-240v and generally there is a 6% variance.)

        • mycosys on 27/05/2013 - 17:07

          wow - my negative vote has been cancelled because i was wrong about what our voltage is supposed to be these days. The rest is true - there are brownouts all over the place due to impedances, high load, and poor wiring/planning esp in multi-tenant buildings. Wish some1 would remove their neg so i can have my neg back lol

  • x d on 26/05/2013 - 15:03

    Anyone can comments on durability of LED lighting?

    I have purchased from another chinese company some LED downlights which so far has been good with no loss in output. However, I have also bought 6 E14 LED light bulbs, which was nowhere near as bright as the 9W CFL lightbults they were meant to replace. After 6 months, the light output has become so poor that it is only good to be used as a night light for the kids room! I am now looking to buy some E14 CFL light bulbs instead, or if E14 fittings become rare, E14 to E27 convertors.

    Cheers.

    • slowmo on 26/05/2013 - 15:11
      +1

      when you replace the cfls with leds, did you compare the lumens output? if not, it's apples and oranges.

      another thing is leds are very prone to overheating, when it overheats, obviously it's lifespan will be significantly shortened.

      and i noticed you are talking about downlights, it's a different beast altogether… the angle of the light, and the output matters. You just don't stick a normal LED downlight meant for shelving lights into your ceiling and expect it to be as bright as the halogen.

      i still see philips e14 cfls (as i still use them) in bunnings.

      • x d on 26/05/2013 - 15:44

        These are the exact ones I have bought

        http://www.eachbuyer.com/e14-white-48-smd-led-corn-light-lam…

        Not sure how much Lumens is from a 9W CFL light. Will need to Google for that but the light output from the LEDs was less than 2/3 as bright initially [edit - lumens from 9W CFL from a quick search showed it to be 550 lumens, so 200 lumens from LEDs is quite low then, and I should have bought 5W LEDS instead of 3W].

        I initially tried them as I wanted something that will last longer than the CFL bulbs. But running them for 4-5 hours at night, the output seem to drop off so quickly that I have become disillusioned [edit - this comment still stands].

        They were installed in lamp holders so were not concealed to be affected by heat.

        Cheers

        PS thanks for the comments re bunnings. Will check out their website.

        • slowmo on 26/05/2013 - 17:21

          yep. generally you won't get amazing wattage savings when you are switching from cfl to leds when you want to retain the same brightness.

          but if you compare it to the traditional halogen, it's quite an impressive figure.

          the other thing i want to point out is that not all LEDs (and their drivers) are made equal.
          you do get what you pay for, i would think that if your bulbs are branded (eg philips), there might be a warranty process that you can go through to get compensation.

          again, not all lamp holders are made equal and disperse heat equally well… i've not put an led bulb on lamp holders to comment. I know some plastic ones deform slightly because i put in too high a wattage (but still within the labelled spec) CFL in the lamp (V shaped lamps)

        • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 17:34
          +1

          pretty sure I recently bought e14 ccfls at BigW too
          Depending on the direction you are trying to light - thse may suit - they have a massive heatsink which should help keep them cool http://www.merimobiles.com/e14-5w-pure-white-450-500lm-led-l… and http://www.merimobiles.com/e14-7w-700-lumen-3500k-7-led-warm… is a but brighter but if the housing is totally enclosed more wattage may mean more heat
          http://www.merimobiles.com/e14-5-5w-112-smd-3528-led-warm-wh… is a bit larger than the one you had so should also tend to heat up less
          as my point below noted - there is a missive diference between leds in efficiency - this unit is 3x the price, but also 3x the light per watt http://www.merimobiles.com/e27-5w-263-led-1600-lumen-energy-… but sadly is e27 tho as you noted adaptors are cheap

          I am personally looking forward to using a couple of old halogen transformers to put some of these about the place, like the ledge above the door and servery in my new dining room (We are moving this week) http://www.merimobiles.com/24-key-ir-controller-5050-rgb-5m-… should make some amazing mood lighting, and on white it is 750 lumens per metre so plenty of light when your not trying to set the mood too.
          I also put 5 of these http://www.merimobiles.com/3w-e27-remote-control-led-bulb-li… behind 5 tv to give a very deco feel of coloured beams radiating up the wall. Looks AMAZING and i have them all on 1 remote power switch.

        • x d on 26/05/2013 - 17:58

          wow thanks for that.

          I might give these a try http://www.merimobiles.com/e14-5-5w-112-smd-3528-led-warm-wh… to see if my faith in LEDs can be restored. They will be for ceiling lamps.

          Interestingly the WIKI item for LEDS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_lamp has a comparison chart on the costs of all the lights and after 10 yrs, CFLs and LEDs come out about the same. Of course there are so many variables including costs of electricity and purchase prices (and changes in the next 10 yrs) but I wondered if I should head to the nearest Bunnings and buy 50 of the Phillips branded CFL globes :-))

          Cheers.

        • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 23:22

          worth noting that the most efficient LED in the chart is 94Lumens/Watt and Cree have just topped 270 http://www.cree.com/news-and-events/cree-news/press-releases… in R&D and current cree XM-L lights commonly available are already 100 Lumens/watt and 35,000 hours runtime @1.5A. It changes SO quickly.

    • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 15:21
      +1

      note the back of this ceiling downlight http://www.merimobiles.com/led-ceiling-light-downlight-warm-…
      cooling is CRITICAL to LED lights that are to have long duty cycles, otherwise as noted they will overheat and die. An e14 in a downlight housing is going to have no way to cool itself unless the back of the housing is open to allow airflow. This wont matter to halogens which run on heat, it sure as hell will to LEDs

      • x d on 26/05/2013 - 15:54

        Interesting.

        For my downlight, it was a 12V downlight, which plugged straight into the existing halogen light holder. It doesn't stay on for long usually so I think heat has not been an issue. Will have to checkout this website with the discount you have got down in your other comments.

        Cheers.

        • slowmo on 26/05/2013 - 17:16

          not defending the quality of leds you bought (since I have no idea what quality it is)
          just to point out that heat kills electronics faster than we think.

          if you happen to have an infrared surface temp thermometer, you can measure it how hot it gets in 30 sec and 1 mins..etc and how hot it remains when you turn it off. It will generally give you an idea.

          on the same topic of downlights, it can be a fire hazard if there isn't enough clearance/ventilation.

        • mycosys on 26/05/2013 - 17:16
          +1

          Just be sure about one little gotcha - some downlight transformers are 12V AC rather than 12V DC and only some LED lamps are suitable to those. If you dont know and have a multimeter it is easy to find out - stick the probes from the meter in and AC wont register on the DC range on the meter and vice versa. You would want to search for MR16, and there are a heap there.

          Also with regard to lumens - there is no direct relationship between watts and lumens unless you are using the exact same LEDs. LEDs vary WILDLY from brand to brand and model to model (iirc a latest model Cree T6 gives triple the light per watt than an older model p4) so just buying by watts wont help you. Also lumens is total light output, so 100 lumens over 60 degrees is much brighter where it hits than 300 lumens over 180 degrees

  • KLoNe on 26/05/2013 - 15:30

    4% off voucher, anyone? "MOE"

  • digitalaxon on 26/05/2013 - 20:42
    +1

    I have to chime in having just bought a 4w LED globe from aldi (for ~$10) and other led bulbs over the last few years. Not all bulbs are made equally. I've had ones that overheat and melt/burn, have no output smoothing (basically flicker at 50hz which you don't normally notice), and even one bulb (ebay purchase) that dimmed to a faint glow after 2 minutes of being switched on and had to DOA with the supplier for a replacement.

    While as a fellow ozbargainer I am always on the lookout for a good deal, and as with most things - you get what you pay for. Buy a more expensive globe and it should have the proper amount of thermal paste to keep the diode cool, it will not come apart as you unscrew it (which I've had happen to me as well) and will produce a bright pleasant light that mimics an incandescent lamp that we've become accustomed to.

    For $5.18 It's not too much to waste if it ends up being a dud, however 3 watts is not really that much and would be too dim to use for lighting a room. Low wattage lamps such as this (2.5->4 watts) I would say are ideal for hallways, pantries, house front lights and generally applications that require illumination for safety/visibility. The 4 watt ALDI lamp is perfect in this instance and I have it installed in a hallway and it is producing a good amount of light for 4 watts.

    CREE have recently released 60watt equivalent lamps in the US that sell for $13 (9 watt and 12.5 watt variants I believe) and seem to be well regarded, hopefully these will soon make an appearance in Australia and we will have access to decent, well priced LED bulbs.

    Visiting the local bunnings store today, they had a LED bulb 60W equivalent from a well known manufacturer for $29.95 if you need a LED lamp with a decent light output (not cheap I know)

    Lastly, I read on earlier posts involved led lamps that if you buy a bulb overseas it may not meet Australian Safety Standards which bulbs sold in Australia must meet to be sold. IF a bulb has a CE mark on it, it may be the 'Chinese Export' logo rather than the European CE mark as well…

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