Gulf Western SYN-X 3000 10W-40 Engine Oil 5L $19.99 (Members' Price) + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store) @ Autobarn

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Ozbargains favorite engine oil? Maybe
ATL? Not quite
Good deal? I think so

Create a free account, pay your $19.99 and 5 litres of golden coloured goo is all yours! ($49.99 for non-members)

SYN-X 3000 10W-40 is a premium blend synthetic motor oil suitable for most Australian, US, European and Asian engines calling for a SAE 10W-40 or 15W-40 engine oil with API SN/CF or earlier performance levels. It is formulated using a combination of synthetic and premium hydrotreated mineral base oils and a modern additive package meeting the API SN/CF and ACEA A3/B4 performance requirements. SYN-X 3000 10W-40 offers superior levels of protection against engine wear, excellent engine cleanliness by controlling deposit and sludge formation, superior cold flow performance and high operating temperature oxidation control. May also be used in motorcycles with wet clutch operation. SYN-X 3000 10W-40 is a highly versatile engine oil that can be used in a wide range of operating conditions including severe, modern stop-start driving conditions.

BENEFITS

Formulated with synthetic base stock ensuring cleaner engines, reduced engine wear and reduced oil oxidation.
Offers rapid start up flow that reduces cold start wear and has excellent thermal stability.
Recommended for most 4, 6 and 8 cylinder passenger cars manufactured from 1980 onward.
Recommended for Petrol, LPG and lightly loaded diesel engines.
It is suitable for turbo charged and super charged engines.

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Comments

  • Hmm I haven't been to autobarn for many many years.
    Thank you pipster11 might have to check that product.

  • Any deal on 5w-40?

  • +7

    OzB favourite is Castro Edge 5W-30 not this.

    • I came here to say this.

      Or was it Castro Edge Sport?

      Anyway, interesting that these days, new cars are more likely to use 0w20 than 5w30.

    • +1

      This is a favourite for those of us who drive old clunkers. 5w 30 is too thin.

  • +5

    Cheap enough to buy to do a clean oil flush

  • -4

    Ozbargains favorite engine oil?

    Nope, it does not say like toyoto mazda kia nissan hyundai crap jap/kor cars or holden commodore or ford falcon
    might be this which covers all above crap https://www.nulon.com.au/products/engine-oils/apex-plus/apx5…

  • -1

    Is it difficult to change engine oil myself? what tools would I need? And where to dump the old oil?

    • +1

      Totally depends on your car. Most cars you can get away with a single spanner to undo the sump plug under the oil pan, some cars you'll need an oil filter wrench if the filter is in an inconvenient spot.
      Collect the old oil into a tray, pour it into the bottle from the fresh oil when you're done and take it to any auto parts store, they usually have abin at the front to dump old oil into.

    • +1

      YouTube ;)

    • +3

      Plus: Warm the engine before hand. Not hot.
      Sometimes a oil filter clamp, or a screw driver if you cant get it off and do not need the old oil filter.
      Grease or oil on the sump plug before tightening.
      Funnel for pouring oil if you can't pour it from the container.
      Clean rags to check the dipstick, wipe around the components.
      Lay cardboard or thick paper down in case any oil is split.

      • +1

        How doesn’t like to burn their hand with hot oil?

        If you haven’t changed oil before, make sure you also use a new crush washer and check there’s no leaks from the sump plug.

        ‘ Grease or oil on the sump plug before tightening.’

        I think you mean oil filter rubber o ring.

    • Look at YouTube videos of your specific car having an oil change for the tools required.
      Whatever they cost is irrelevant as you will make back the cost of them in one or two changes.
      My local dump allows oil to be dropped off.

    • Also check the oil is compatible with your car: https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/

      Don't forget the oil filter, genuine manufacturer, Ryco, Sakura or Wesfil are good brands.

      This is a great beginner's guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1hF25Cowv8

      • Ryco, Sakura or Wesfil wouldn't be my first choice for an air or oil filter but it's better than not changing it.

        I'm happy to use other brands for cabin filters but only use OEM, Mann, Mahle or Hengst for my oil or air filters.

        Mann, Mahle or Hengst are sometimes cheaper than Ryco, Sakura or Wesfil at SCA.

    • +1

      Is it difficult to change engine oil myself? what tools would I need? And where to dump the old oil?

      Difficulty depends on the vehicle and how mechanically capable you are. eg: My BIL is a great carpenter but he would totally botch an oil change.

      You'll need a safe method to get under the car.
      Something to catch the oil with
      A suitable tool to remove the engine undertray.
      A tool to remove the sump plug.
      A tool to remove the oil filter.
      A funnel to assist in refilling the engine oil.
      Any other tools or parts needed to carry out a service as there's more to it than just oil & filter.
      Consumables like rags, hand cleaner, etc

      I put my oil back into an empty oil container and take it back to SCA or the local council Saturday waste drop-off or Community Recycling centre.

  • If oil filter just under the bonnet and find difficult to go under the car then buy oil extractor like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356647350241 or from AE or a used one on GT.
    Dump the old oil to SCA they accept them free or even they offer $5 bucks sometimes.

    • +3

      I understand why people buy these but personally I wouldn't use one. I don't think it would be as effective at getting out all the contaminants as letting gravity do its job and run everything out of the lowest point of the sump where the junk would be collecting. Happy to stand corrected if someone's done some actual research on it

      • The existence of magnetic sump plugs leads one to the best way of draining oil… out of the bottom.
        Not from research…. just my version of cdf :)

        • +1

          I place neodymium magnets on my oil filters ) two of them makes a smile at the bottom.

      • -1

        I do it alternatively at every second oil change i.e. one sump plug, the next one extraction. It is as effective as sump plug. At first, I was skeptical about it too, but it really sucks all contaminants better than gravity drainage does. It is just physics.

        • +3

          It's physics that particles that sink to the bottom of an oil pan defy gravity and levitate up as the oil is sucked out?
          Very different physics to the newtonian stuff I was taught.
          Should I be asking the maintainers of expensive equipment if I should do that?
          ahem

          • -1

            @rooster7777: I see you have no idea about the physics, i.e. negative suction physics. so you did/do not deserve an answer. This also shows your low literacy and numeracy skills. Good luck!

      • +1

        A lot of Euro dealers employ extractors to free up hoist time. Insert the hose, turn on the pump, set the timer and walk away to do other stuff. Hands won't be covered in oil and less likely oil spill. The car in service only need 5 minutes on the hoist for those 'inspections' if brake fluid change is not required. It saves a lot of time and also generate plenty more income for dealers doing servicing jobs.

      • extractors are all the rage on a VW forum I'm on. They leave about 50ml in the sump of a VW EA888 which I thinks acceptable and a lot easier than removing the undertray.

        • You don't have to convince me that it's easier, I get it. The questions is that it's likely that's the worst 50mL that's being left

          • @Jackson: If you've run the engine beforehand then fine particles will be in suspension. Anything else should be in the filter.

            If you are getting chunks out in the last 50ml then the engine hasn't been maintained properly anyway.

  • i cant get the 19.99 price mine is still stuck at 49.99 even though im a member

    • +1

      have you logged in to the website?
      It worked for me 1 minute ago.

      • +3

        thats weird, i had to log out then log back in, but now it works thanks

  • Are these good for bikes

  • Thanks OP. Bought 3 for my oil burning corolla.

    • What year Corolla? Is the valve cover leaking?

      • +1

        03 1zz engine with 305,000km. Already did the valve cover recently but it's still (profanity). I know there's leaking around the timing cover as well. Probably worn piston rings to be honest.

  • Website seems broken and won't let me check out lol

  • Isn't Castrol better than this, that's full synthetic

    • Any full synthetic from a mainstream manufacturer is better than semi synthetic. But better than Gulf Western full synthetic? I doubt it.

      • +1

        This just says synthetic, doesn't way full synthetic or semi. is it full synthetic? Is gulf western good brand?

        • +2

          No the SYN-X 3000 is not full synthetic. Sorry, I mean the SYN-X 5000, 6000, 7000. If you go by the recommended oil for your car per the car or oil manufacturer, it has to have certain standards and additives to suit the engine: API, ACEA etc.

          https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/

          What is marketing and what is actual quality oil?

          Gulf and Western is an Australian company, just like Penrite.

          I usually use Gulf and Western oil. I get my oil when it's on special, so sometimes I get Nulon or Shell etc.

          Most important thing is to change the oil regularly, unless it's a performace car or a modern car needing synthetic, semi synthetic is fine. Even non-synthetic is fine if it meets your car's standards.

        • +1

          It is a bit misleading. This one is semi-synthetic / part-synthetic. Their full synthetic ones have "full synthetic" on the bottle.
          Yeah, I'd say Gulf Western is decent. I've been using this exact oil in 4 different vehicles lately and no issues.

    • +2

      Use the approved oil for your car and change it when the schedule is up. Don't worry about full synthetic or fake synthetic.

  • -1

    Although it's got Gulf Western in the title, looking at the image I was thinking it's Nulon the whole time, until I clicked on it.

    • I would rather buy from GW or Hi-Tec Oils.

      • And Penrite?

      • Why GW or Hi-Tec over Nulon?

        • Nulon hasn't been Aussie-owned for like 5 or 6 years now.

          • +1

            @jc209964: Oh didn’t realise.

            I still would buy it. It’s still made in Australia but is owned by Fuchs who know a few things about oil.

            Made in Oz is more important than being owned by a foreign company.

  • +1

    This is a very handy weight to have around. Especally for motorcycles or small OHV engines. Through pretty much suitable for any motor without a DPF really. I don't think there is anything wrong with the gulf western brand.

    • Nothing wrong with GW they are just not as sharp when it comes to Advertising and Marketing compared to Nulon. You can't go wrong with a lubricant manufacturer and supplier that involves heavily in the mining industry.

  • Autobarn website is totally (profanity) today, hope tbeycanfixit

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