clearance stock on the 3 way antenna splitters. $14.95 Free shipping.
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6pc 3-Way Antenna Splitters $14.95 Delivered @ Sydney Electronics
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AssociatedLdfyo Selectronics on 23/01/2024 - 13:29 sydneyelectronics.com.au (95 clicks)
Last edited 23/01/2024 - 14:02 by 1 other user
Last edited 23/01/2024 - 14:02 by 1 other user
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12 devices.
You start with 1. Each splitter you plug in uses 1 socket and provides 3 more for a net gain of 2.
Problem is also signal strength, this doesn't have booster / amp, so 2 devices means 1/2 signal to each device, 3 devices means 1/3 signal. Used to use to get TV and FM radio then 3rd device killed it and had to buy and active one with booster.
You're right, but if I can be really pedantic, you also need to take note of the losses involved in the split. A good 3-way F-type metal splitter might have between 7-13dB of insertion loss per output, depending on the frequency of the TV channels. That's easily enough to kill digital reception on even a reasonably strong signal.
Products like Kingray's SA164 and SA164F are the amplified versions, and they've basically got enough power to mostly offset those losses.
So, who's the target market for these? Maybe discount shops who will split up the 6-packs to sell individually at $5-10 each. Antenna installers probably wouldn't use these very often, but they might keep a few just for those odd cases where they've run out of wallplates or for customers who are too tight to get a properly installed plate or good splitter.
A good 3-way F-type metal splitter might have between 7-13dB of insertion loss per output, depending on the frequency of the TV channels. That's easily enough to kill digital reception on even a reasonably strong signal.
13dB IL on a good splitter is ridiculous, what model splitter have you ever seen anywhere near that on? And not sure what your definition of strong is, but even a total 15dB IL hit on an actual strong signal(or reasonable strong) isn't going to knock down anything.
Good point. I'm talking about wideband splitters (5-2400MHz capable, which shouldn't be sold for normal domestic stuff, but hey, it happens every damned day), where the insertion losses in the upper frequencies are that high, but yes, for normal (sub-1000MHz) stuff, the losses are more normally in the 6-9dB range.
I can't find any PAL splitters with measured insertion losses (in a 2min search), but from memory, these were typically in the same ballpark as F-type ones, although they could be much higher if the internals weren't all that great. Doss' SP3F has about 7dB in the 5-40MHz range, then rises to about 8.5dB in the 40-1000MHz range (12.6dB in the 1750-2300MHz range, hence my original figures). Kingray's KSP3F is 7.5dB at 5MHz, rising to 10dB at 2400MHz (with no info about the losses between the two extremes). Matchmaster's 07MM-GM03 is rated for 6.5-9dB across its 5-2450MHz range, but their 07MM-ES03 (all ports power pass) is 8-11dB across 5-2400MHz.
And yes, strong is a pretty vague word and I used it because most of the people here won't have a digital signal strength meter to understand the signal at each TV point in their home. Most people won't know anything beyond "it works" or "it doesn't work" when plugging a TV into the wall, so I was generalising a lot. And I've yet to come across an internal strength tester on a TV that gives any kind of real indication of strength/quality beyond hand-waving.
Depending on the TV tuner in the TV/STB/recorder, there are huge variations in what range of power & BER/MER they'll take. A TV/STB might be rock solid at 45-50dB, making the owner think the signal is strong, but chuck even a 6-7 dB IL splitter in there and you're in trouble.
If I wanted to make my same point in a briefer way - Don't buy these 3-way splitters unless you're damned sure that you've got enough signal to make it work.
@Carve2: Fair enough if you were just generalising about the IL's for the whole 5-2400, I just took it in context of your noted IL dB range being in the VHF & UHF TV frequencies only :) And yes I agree the definition of strong has to be taken in context, for me it would to have sufficient power input to so there's enough headroom to safely get away with a passive setup.
If I wanted to make my same point in a briefer way - Don't buy these 3-way splitters unless you're damned sure that you've got enough signal to make it work.
I agree, a lot of people have mediocre reception levels that would instantly fall over if any further passive split is added.
@howcan: Absolutely. And from experience working in the industry, there are a lot of weekend warriors who'll just buy something and then whinge when it doesn't work with a VHF antenna from 30+ years ago, a 15-way splitter, air-spaced RG59 cable that's full of water, and that mice have been chewing on!
Better to get in front of that and say: "Hey, you know that new 8m caravan you're buying? Great product, fantastic for the right person, but have you got the right car to tow it safely? Oh, you've got a Hyundai i30 with 175,000km on it? All right, let's talk about that for a bit…"
air-spaced RG59 cable that's full of water
It seems 300-ohm ribbon cable was a better option for connecting to external TV antennas, particularly as it didn't require a balun at the antenna, had lower loss, and didn't fill up with water. Do you have any idea why it disappeared?
@Russ: The simplest reason was the lack of shielding, it was notorious for picking up other signals and noise. Coaxial cable is relatively cheap to make, and certainly easier to shield than ribbon cable. Coax is normally more robust too, but air-spaced RG59 was a low point!
Imagine a wagon wheel, with plastic "spokes" and rim, with the shielding sandwiched between the interior plastic and the outer black protective plastic. The copper core runs through the axle of the wagon wheel. As a way of reducing material costs and shipping weight, it's a brilliant idea. And on paper, it performs electrically as well as having a solid dielectric.
But it was an absolute nightmare in terms of lifespan, crushing damage, the spacing acting like a hose when water got in, and a lot more besides.
You'll still find air-spaced coax sold for other uses, however it's thankfully dead and buried for home use.
You can get 2 way splitters on eBay for… $4.45 delivered (5 is $10.95) & as GS mentioned above the more you split it the weaker the signal strength gets.
Edit - 2 x 2 way… $5.95 delivered.
These are absolute junk.
"Help! I have 3 televisions but only 1 antenna wall socket, what can I do?"
Sydney Electronics: "I gotchu fam"
Rubbish splitters, do not use them. Buy f-type shielded ones only.
Buy f-type shielded ones only.
As most houses have PAL sockets for their external antenna connection, how are you going to plug a splitter with F-type connections?
There's nothing wrong with PAL connectors. Far more durable than F-type connectors that use the central wire of the coax as a contact, which restricts you to using solid-core wire. A few bends and the wire goes open-circuit.
You can buy F to PAL adapters. Without access to suitable right angle ones, or the tools to make your own custom leads, it's hard to make it neat though.
It's less about the connection type but the crappy implementation. It's a flimsy device a d they don't take much to fail.
Without access to suitable right angle ones
Right-angle F connectors are quite uncommon, unless you mean "straight F connector with added right-angle adapter". Whereas right-angle PAL connectors are readily available at Jaycar, and inexpensive: https://www.jaycar.com.au/75-ohm-right-angle-solderless-tv-p…
It's a flimsy device
If you were talking about the Y-shaped 2-way splitters, I'd agree with you. This one, from its layout, looks like it has a PCB inside that the connectors are soldered to. So probably reasonably durable.
@Russ: You might be right about the PCB, Russ, I haven't pulled this specific one apart. But I used to work for a company that imported these, or bought them locally for resale, and almost without exception, there was nothing inside except some wires to connect all the plugs & sockets to each other. The internal wires were always thin too, so the losses were pretty high. Even old saddle-and-screw splitters seemed to use better wires and PCBs than these things did.
OzPrehistoricBargain.
Who needs this when you have a coat hanger?
Jeez, these are a blast from the past. I haven't even connected the aerial cable to my TV for the last 3 years. Nothing on free to air interests me in the slightest.
Same! FTA is as good as dead.
Over 10 years for me and that was only so a guest could watch the all blacks womp the aussies.
Better save $15 stream fta via internet. Tv antenna are eyesore, fall off the roof and need cable to each room.
nah you don't need that many cables. A raspberry pi (v2 will do) + few dvb-t usb receivers (15$ per dvb mux) + tvheadend, I keep this setup in the garage next to the antenna, and then I can cast free tv to any device capable of Kodi (or even via a browser) in the home network.
How would I plug all those USB receivers into the one antenna outlet? Might I need… 6pcs of 3-way splitters?
There are 5 dvb muxes (ABC, SBS, 7, 9, 10) in the ACT so you'll need maximum 2 of such splitters :-)
Just see granny setting one up……
a granny only needs one tv with one cable though and she would not care less which room the tv is in :).
Tv antenna are eyesore, fall off the roof and need cable to each room.
For digital TV, you frequently don't need an antenna on the roof. I don't have line-of-sight to the TV transmitters due to a large hill in the way, and I get by just fine with a "rabbit ears" antenna beside the TV. If you don't like seeing the rabbit ears, they can be put inside the ceiling space if you have a tile roof, and run a cable inside the wall cavity.
Not sure why anyone would need 6 x 3 Port Antenna Splitters.
Who has 18 devices that needs antenna…