Great price if you have prime (delivery kills the deal)
Might want to add some desoldering wire to your order $2.95 for 1.5m
Usually dispatched within 2 to 4 weeks
https://www.amazon.com.au/DOSS-Desoldering-Construction-Quic…
CamelCamelCamel.
Cost you 2 bucks to find out
I bought a pair of $2 secateurs from bunnings to cut a few roots and they broke while taking it out of the packaging lol.
:) now you know
Cost you 2 bucks to find out
Amazon has been flooded with cheap China imports same as eBay and Aliexpress so if I'm going to solder something, I prefer to spend that ~$4 more and I do the right job.
Nothing wrong with Amazon itself but lately I bought 3 items that resulted to be cheap bogus, at the end I got my money back but it's a waste of time!
I agree, Amazon isn't what it used to be.
Not saying anything about this product, but you can't blindly trust Amazon like you use to
What is some decent solder?
@Pixie13: For a generic, easy and reliable job you can use this Weller from Bunnings and you pick up from everywhere:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/weller-1-0mm-60-40-85g-rosin-cor…
@billadm: the bunnings solder is actually much cheaper. It's equivalent to 8.5 x the amazon stuff. 85gms of amazon would cost $20.82; 85gm of bunnings cost $10.95.
@billadm: Don't use that solder.
The correct ratio for good tin-lead solder is 60% tin and 40% lead.
From Bunning's webpage, theirs is
60%Lead, 40% Tin
They have the ratio the wrong way around.
It will sort-of work for soldering, but this ratio results in dry joints MUCH more frequently than the proper ratio.
63% tin 37% lead solder, also known as eutectic solder, is the best tin-lead solder. But it's much more expensive.
The correct ratio for good tin-lead solder is 60% tin and 40% lead
In fact, read the specification from the picture, 60% tin and 40% lead.
@poohduck: Could be a typo, but could equally be that they grabbed the wrong picture from the manufacturer's website.
If it does have 60% tin, and rosin core, it's good. Check the actual roll in-store.
I've been sold 40/60 solder before, it's not uncommon, and it is cheaper than 60/40. So now I'm always careful when ordering!
@Pixie13: I find the jaycar stuff to be fairly decent. Pretty much any solder works well if its leaded and your using the right flux, but the jaycar stuff is pretty idiot proof.
Items sold by Amazon AU are still most likely of acceptable quality. Just dont buy from 3rd party sellers with weird long names :)
If you want good quality I recommend Kester. But it's not cheap.
Seems like a hobbist level brand.
I'll see how it goes against the 15 year old roll I've been using for $2.45 lol
Seems the normal price?
I ordered 100.
2 bucks is good to solder trolls to the mainboard.
That article is horrifically badly written. If it isn't AI written, I would be surprised.
I have never tried 63/37. Unfortunately I may never know. I still have 3 rolls of 60/40 + 2 rolls of lead-free. Lately I've been using the lead-free one, and it seems to be doing the job just fine, so I may not even use my lead solder anymore.
If you're a skilled solderer, 63/37 makes it almost impossible to produce a dry joint. Even if you move the metals being soldered while the solder is solidifying.
For most people and most soldering, 60/40 solder is almost as good. Most people wouldn't notice the difference.
Doss solder is horrible as it leaves lots of resin behind and unworkable with surface mount. I usually get the lead free from Jaycar.
I doubt lead free works really well. It's the soy milk of solders.
I've been huffing leaded solder since I was a kid!
Lead grants +5 points aggression, allowing us to solder faster and harder
solder with 2% copper is the go … solders to most things including the zinc plating on my tail lights hard to get though.
that isn't a fault of the solder. Resin is just to prepare / clean the surface so that the solder can attach; not all of it will get used. Different types of resin for different uses. It's also possible you're not getting much heat into the material to be soldered. I use an acid flux; it seems to work on everything and keeps the tip of my iron tinned.
I used the lead free version there’s not much residue left behind
You're supposed to clean that off with isopropyl
You're supposed to clean that off with isopropyl
Quite a few solders now use fluxes that aren't soluble in alcohol. I always choose rosin-core because it is easily removable with IPA or acetone.
Beware "crystal" or "no-clean" flux, they require a proprietary (and expensive) flux remover.
I generally go with the rosin core too just because I'm in a rush most of the time, but there are some applications where a separate source of flux just makes things 1000% easier. Need the right kind though, and there's a lot of bad stuff around. I tried making some myself from rosin (element14 has it really cheap) but I couldn't get it to work right.
I'm jealous of Louis Rossmans setup, it looks so easy when he does it.
Any recommendation on solder wire? Every time I solder it becomes at big lump, as if the solder doesn't stick and requires a lot to build up.
Not sure if it's the iron or the solder, or just poor technique.
You're either using too much, only heating up one of the two components you're joining, or the solder is bad.
Or hire someone if you're sore lol why did you down vote?
No it wasn't me, upvoted to prove. :D
Some brain less wild man then 😂
Why would you ever use paste over wire with a soldering iron? - that's terrible advice to suggest using paste
It's most likely a technique problem that can be fixed by looking at YouTube videos.
Secure lead\wire, clean iron tip, wet tip with a bit of solder, heat lead\wire, apply solder to heater lead\wire not iron, remove iron
(for some things you might need to apply external flex, increase iron temp, cleanup flux, etc)
I'm pretty sure he's going to need flux, whatever he does. At the very least to tin the end of the soldering iron - it won't hold solder till this is done, and then to prepare the surfaces to be soldered - they probably won't hold solder till that's done. That kind of sounds like what his problem is if you consider his statement "Every time I solder it becomes at big lump, as if the solder doesn't stick and requires a lot to build up".
Ah they meant to say flux paste and not solder(ing) paste, which is a very different product intended for SMD and not really for soldering with an iron (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder_paste)
Yes it won't hurt to use additional flux
In general you are not supposed to hold solder on the tip anyway as it burns out the flux core and likely to lead to a cold joint.
It does help to have a bit of solder on the tip to improve heat transfer, but actual solder transfer should be avoid as much as possible. Always heat the wire and pad at the same time and apply solder wire directly to both at the same time.
soldering flux makes a world of difference. maybe your iron isn't hot enough or your tip isn't transferring heat
You need flux. As an occasional solderer it made a world of difference how well it stopped the solder sticking/clumping and how well it just flowed off the soldering tip. Bought a $2 pot off AliExpress.
A good soldering iron and some flux will change your life.
Look at some reviews for good soldering irons. It must have temperature control. There are some very affordable and very capable setups available on AliExpress these days. Get a range of tips to be able to handle small jobs as well as larger ground planes and such with plenty of thermal mass. Throw out the $10 plumber's iron you got from Bunnings.
Squirt flux on everything. It's magic. You can't use too much. IPA and your old toothbrush will clean up all the gunk when you're done.
Bunnings now actually stock a $200 ish Weller station, I was pretty surprised when I saw it in store.
i got one after the box of chinese hakko copies i have …love the weller.
a $200 ish Weller station
Says $247.50 for me.
Looks to be a good soldering station, but way overpriced. You're paying a premium for the "Weller" brand name.
Hakko clones, and irons like the Pinecil, are MUCH cheaper, and perform just as well. Check reviews online before choosing. Also check the price and availability of replacement tips, for the tip shape you want to use. Genuine Hakko tips are typically expensive ($30 with some being much higher cost), and while eBay can supply non-genuine tips for as little as $1, the eBay tips wear out MUCH faster.
So I've done a fair bit of soldering, but I'm far from decent at it.
What are you soldering? If it's wires they need to be tinned first. For components mounted to circuit boards you need to build up a bit on each pad, heat your tinned wires then it all will flow into one and be solid / strong.
At least in this noobs experience. Watch a few youtube videos. Get some flux too.
Some wires have some aweful plating which is terrible for soldering so you can always rub it down with sandpaper.
What a crap price - DOSS $24.5 per 100g vs ebay $10.99 per 100g (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/394095793425), shipped
I've read a lot of reviews saying the eBay/AliExpress special solder wire has very bad flux, making it a real pain to solder with.
It will depend on the specific product, but every one I've bought has worked fine.
Everyday solder wire really isn't that complex, compared to say paste
a lot of reviews saying the eBay/AliExpress
Nowadays you find the same products and sellers on Amazon too.
I've had that. Rosin-core solder has a limited shelf life, and I suspect I got old stock.
Safer to go to Bunnings.
have rolls that are now 40 years old … problem is the oxidisation on the solder, need to clean before soldering or there isn’t enough flux in side solder to prep the surfaces of what you are soldering and clean the dirty solder.
@garage sale: Makes sense. Is there a practical way to clean oxidised solder? Google just tells me how to remove solder, or clean the iron.
I've used the old solder with external flux where large amounts were needed.
@bargaino: Sometimes a folded small section of white A4 paper works really well. Wrap the wire, squeeze between your fingers them pull. The wire will be nice and shiny.
Otherwise 800 grit sandpaper will do. Clean your solder wire well so no residue left behind.
Yep. At a job I was at the guy bought a box of solder from aliexpress, thinking hey its just lead and tin, how can they freak that up?
Ended up tossing it because it was so bad. Turned into a gummy burnt chocolate like texture even with flux
Thats a great price
If you need to solder something in 6 weeks
If you need to solder today it's still cheaper at Bunnings
https://www.bunnings.com.au/weller-soldering-1-6mm-60-40-85g…
$12.88 per 100g, cheaper and faster to get than this Amazon crap
Yesterday I spent 3 to 4 hours looking for solder wire and fixed the kids toy in about half an hour lol must have.
2mm wide desolder braid is the same price, you get 33% more product.
This has always been this price. I bought lead free solder from the same shop for like $3. It works pretty good but you definitely need flux. Good imo for the price.
Used to chew on this all the time as a kid. Great tangy taste.
kids these days only get microplastics to chew on
Used to chew on this all the time as a kid
That "tangy taste" is the lead content, and it's poisonous.
What’s a decent but value solder iron of choice nowadays? I need to replace mine
portable one? or base station style
Preferably portable so I can plug it straight in
heard good things about the pinecil & ts100/101
The JCD 8898 (or clone) are pretty simple, work well, and can be had for less than $50. It's a really good starter piece that comes with a heatgun (which is invaluable when soldering thicker pieces that suckup heat)
The portable ones like the pinecil are definitely superior, but require a bit more setup.
@outlander: I bought a hot air rework/solder combo station, and while I've used the air a couple of times I was much happier upgrading to a Pinecil for the portability. Lugging the station out of the cupboard for a ten-second job was getting rather annoying…
Still have my red roll from dick smith / high school days. Good old days
Anyone have feedback for the SEQURE S60P iron?
Is it a good brand/product?