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Cobra Hobbyist Multimeter $4, 'Plus' Version $10 + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store) @ Bunnings

1840

Came across this when walking around at Bunnings. $4 is pretty darn cheap. Also have a $10 one as well if you want to splurge. The $4 one is normaly about $10 and the $10 one about $25.

Handy just to test the voltage of your batteries if nothing else!

Found them on the website, links below:

Cobra Hobbyist Multimeter - $4
https://www.bunnings.com.au/cobra-hobbyist-multimeter_p01068…

Cobra Hobbyist Plus Multimeter - $10
https://www.bunnings.com.au/cobra-hobbyist-plus-multimeter_p…

They include a 9V battery which is probably worth the entire $4 just in itself.

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closed Comments

  • +5

    I use it for work
    Last 6 months
    Good enough

    • +1

      what happened to it after 6 months?
      Thanks

      • +8

        Shows me 937717V

        • +34

          Mine says 58008.

          • -3

            @bargaino: Turn it upside down!

            (.)_(.)

            • +16

              @Bozman: Thanks. Everyone loves it when you explain their jokes.

              (OK, I know some people will miss it, but it's just not funny when explained. So there's not much point. )

            • @Bozman: Karen is that you?

        • You're powerful enough mate!

          • +6

            @WayneOZ: the $4 has 1yr warranty… $10 one has 3yrs… very hard to lose on this one

            unless you want to test live 240v

            • +1

              @tonyjzx: What do you mean? Both test AC.

            • +1

              @tonyjzx: Can test 240 all the way up to 750

              • +4

                @J5: Just because it can do it doesn't mean you should do it. Not safe. Best just use these for low voltage DC stuff.

                • +5

                  @Castcore: Fine to measure 240

                  If you cant work safe then you prob shouldnt be working at all

                • +3

                  @Castcore: It is safe if wearing a reflective vest. And goggles. And a MASK, of course !!

        • +4

          Were you measuring the voltage of a lightning strike?

        • I don't get it :( ALILLEB??

          • +2

            @jalwa: @jalwa - Its actually Belial. That device will usher in the apocalypse.

    • +1

      Mine's failing after a week or two. Time to dig up the receipt

      • +14

        The trip to bunnings probably cost more than the multimeter.

    • +1

      It finally figured out you were not a hobbyist.

    • If you use it for work, why not spend $20 to $40 on a Uni-T or Aneng multimeter which has better resolution, more function and proper fuses?

      • or get the boss to buy you a real meter

  • Can I use any of this as a live wire detector? Thanks.

    • +22

      Don't people just just their tongue to test? Works fine on a 9v battery…

    • Hopefully you were being sarcastic… If not, just don't go there.

      • +1

        Why?
        I had one from Jaycar (around $60RRP) which has that feature.

        • +3

          yeah but no name $4 multimeters?

          maybe your family can sue bunnings once you're dead

          • -1

            @tonyjzx: Increase your life insurance sum insured first to make sure your family not paying your own debt

        • +1

          Since you have one that does it, you can tell this one doesn't have this feature.

    • +9

      No. U need a voltage glo pen/stick to do that safely. No contact with wires.

      • +1

        Nice. A proper answer at last to the question on hand.

      • Would you recommend a non contact version (like this one https://www.bunnings.com.au/klein-tools-12-1000v-non-contact…), or a contact version (like this one https://www.amazon.com.au/Stanley-STHT0-66121-Mains-Testers-…)
        Thanks.

        • They do different things. The non contact tester is for checking if there is power going to e.g. socket or power lead without having to expose live wires. One just touchs the panel or power cable.
          The other is for testing to see if a plug is live and requires contact with a live socket. Requires more care.
          What are you wanting to test?

          • @Borg: I want to see whether a wire is live or neutral (supposed that the colour is incorrect/not following the standard), or a socket is live. Would the non-contact version help with that?
            Thanks.

            • +2

              @Averell: No as it only lets you know that there is power flowing. There is no contact.
              A multimeter can be used in DC mode but use with care. Best Google both and there are plenty of Videos showing their use.
              A Multimeter can be used for certain things but care needs to be taken obviously if using with 240v live wires. You can find how to videos online.

              The fact that you have to ask and are not sure what does what makes me think you are not familiar with testing. In turn I recommend in staying clear of live wires. Not said in a rude way and just noting for caution purposes.

              • +4

                @Borg: Further to above, here is a reasonable video on
                How to use a Multimeter - Beginners Guide
                I like that he uses a cheapie model like this one.

                • @Borg: Sorry, I thought I replied - have been waiting for your response since then.
                  I had experience with multimeters before but only used them with DC.
                  With AC, I was using only the contact version of the pen. I still couldn't find out whether the non-contact version can cover all use-cases of the contact one.
                  Thanks

    • Nope. Need a proximity test.

  • Plus version has 3 years warranty vs 1 year on the $4 version.

    • +1

      Reviews (bunno's) on plus version look horrible compared to $4 one

    • And wifi

  • +1

    Does the $4 include test leads and thermocouple as that in itself is worth $4

    • +2

      Plus one Includes test leads and thermocouple

      • yep got that one as the $4 doesn't say it has any but if it did that would be a great deal then

    • leads but no thermocouple. the $10 one includes a thermocouple

  • Reviews on the $10 one are awful. Leads break.

    • +7

      It’s not a fluke

      • +2

        Add a couple more numbers to that $4 if you want to it to be a fluke.

        • +1

          $4.00?

          Quite amazing that this can come from a factory in China to your local Bunnings, and only cost $4! Looks like Aussie purchasing power is off the scale

        • +2

          A set of fluke leads is like $70 on their own

      • +2

        Work just bought me a $800 Fluke multimeter and I have no idea what makes it special over my $15 Jaycar one. Probs should read the manual.

        Edit: this - https://www.totaltools.com.au/143250-fluke-multimeter-and-de…

        • +1

          Probably got assembled by people with the hide to ask for a wage. Either that, or assembled by robots that actually know what they’re doing. You’ll be astounded when you get to the part of the manual that discusses the benefits of dynamic islands

        • +1

          I'll offer you $100 for it seeing as my 34 year old Micronta from Tandy is still going strong. It cost $150 in 1988.

          • @NevC: Adjusting for inflation, that’s now more than… $150 i guess

        • That's the cheaper (cheapest?) model from fluke. I bought an 87 V more than 10 years ago forgot how much I paid, I think it was around $300-400. I recently looked up the price, it's now over $1000

          The replacement fuse costs $20

          • @muppet: Username checks out (just kidding)

        • Could you send the link for the $15 one from Jaycar?

        • they use golden conductors inside, keep it safe and you can resell the gold later.

        • +1

          If it wasn't obvious, the brand name and also expensive components inside which make it more reliable and accurate.

          I've tried all sorts of fluke multimeters and they always beat the shitty cheap ones. I wouldn't fork out that much money to use on hobby projects at home though. Still cheaper to just buy cheap ones over and over again when they break except when accurate readings are required.

        • +1

          The magnet clip. Probably the most useful peice of that pack!

        • They are paying a lot because if your multimeter fails mid job you could quite easily set a project back more than $800.

        • I think this video explains the reason.
          (From EEVblog)
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay9wFQAW19Y

  • Does it comes with fuse? I bought a cheapie online from ebay came without a fuse and burnt the board.

    • +13

      Fuses are for sissies. If you make a mistake, let it be a permanent lesson

      • +1

        I like to be sissies.

      • +2

        Yes, what's the point of making mistakes if you don't learn (permanently)?

        • I’m either not sure, or perhaps I’ve forgotten. Unless that was a rhetorical question, in which case you probably already know the answer. Which is a good thing, because I sure as heck don’t

    • +2

      adding a fuse would double the materials cost.

      • So buy two, and don’t make the same mistake twice!

  • +1

    The hobby one seems like a 838 clone. I've had one of those before and they're fine for basic use. In my case, only one part was fused, and it was actually soldered to the board.

    • +2

      Yeah they're a very common clone. I have one that's got to be 30 years old at least.

      • +1

        My thought too! I've got a Dick Smith Electronics one that looks identical to this that's from the mid 90's. Still works fine. I've got a Fluke 87V as my main one now (nice gift!) but the old one works if I'm just doing a quick check on some ELV stuff where precision is less important.

  • +1

    How is the Aldi Digital Multimeter for $19.99

    • +11

      its 5 times the price

      • The Plus Version is 2.5 times the price :(

  • $4 one is 404

    • +1

      Depends on which state you are in.
      But I'd get the $10 one. You'll get half the difference back the first time you change batteries. 2xAAA vs 9V.

      One of the reviewers complains about this! What an idiot.
      I will accept what the reviewers say about shoddy leads, fortunately I have a few spares.
      Cheap multimeters usually fail because of the big mode switch, in my experience. This one ($10) has a separate on/off button, so that will make it last longer.
      And it is 4 digits, unlike in the photos. Very precise, though accuracy remains to be seen :-)
      Also measures up to 20A. All my other multi-meters only to 10A, which has been a problem for testing ebike motor :)

      • There's a reason other ones only go up to 10A.

        Also it's unfused, great way to break it.

        • +1

          You're kidding!? Opening it up … OMG, worse: the circuit board is labelled 10A .

          • @bargaino: So not worth getting the $4 one? I'll cancel my order in that case

            • @nk7: Its only $6 more for the plus, if you have the choice. Why not get both?

              • @bargaino: The $4 one is in stock in my local Bunnings but the $10 one is only available in a Bunnings about 20 minutes drive away - and there's no click/collection available to get stuff moved between stores so..

  • Mainly looking at to test dying (dead) alkaline batteries for "battery powered" lights around the place.

    Which of/would these be good for that .. or can you recommend something slightly better (that would do more or better quality)?

    Thanks.

    • +3

      $4 one should be fine for this.

      • thanks .. =)

    • +7

      Yes, but not as good as a purpose built device
      https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-battery-tester_p4410633

      $6 at bunnings, or half the price thru ebay/ali

      Reason being is that batteries can have a falsely high voltage. The battery testers put a small load on the battery when testing it, so its a more reliable read than a multi meter alone

      • thank you for the info and suggestion. this looks like a better fit for my needs .. =)

      • I've been looking into the best way to test coin/button batteries, do you have any suggestions? Some youtube videos I watched showed a 'variable resistance box' that could be paired with a multimeter. The closest I can find locally is the following, which seems like overkill…

        https://www.amazon.com.au/RETROGOO-Resistance-Precision-Vari…

        • +1

          The one above does coin cells too!

          As for the best way, that opens things up to discussion. Coin cells like all batteries are constructed differently from manufacturer to manufacturer. One brand might have a greater total capacity, as long as you use it with a low load, while another might do better at short, high current pulses. So testing would depend on the application you had in mind.

          All that said, I myself actually use the digital version of the above if I'm looking for a quick indication of whether a battery is good or not. For coin cells, anything less than 2.5v usually means the battery is on its last legs

        • +1

          I have used one of these for years and surprisingly works really well one one gets familiar with the levels of the LED bars All in one Battery Tester. It depends on your needs I suppose.

  • I have a rebranded version of this, from eBay. The ohmmeter is just plain wrong and useless. The volts at least seem to be OK though

    • +22

      So resistance is futile?

    • I have come across leads that are crappy and with a high resistance, which makes resistance measurements useless because of this. Test the resistance of your leads.

  • Wow super cheap one's near me…
    I paid $20 at SCA a few months ago. Shame…

  • Anyone got experience with this? Need it to test electronics, batteries and other stuff around the house. I won't be a serious user but I want something accurate and something that won't break or fail on me in a couple months.

    • No experience with this specifically but in general I say, 'buy it nice or buy it twice'.
      Also as mentioned in another comment, to accurately test batteries, it should have some load on it.

    • Need it to test electronics

      Needles to say but any "involved" testing will probably be better with an oscilloscope. They are ridiculously cheap nowadays (for hobbyist use, of course).

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