3 years Australian Warranty
Produces up to two times the usable power of an AGM battery
Intelligent balancing function
20 Years Designed service life
Parallel connection of up to Six identical batteries
High recharge current
Charge with solar panels on the road
Specifications
Rated Capacity: 100Ah
Nominal Voltage: 12.8V
Cut-off Voltage: 10.4V
Energy: 1280Wh
Max. Charge Voltage: 14.4~14.6V
Max. Charge Current: 50A (≤ 0.5C)
Max. Continues Discharge current: 100A (≤ 1C)
Max. Discharge Current: 2.3 Seconds 200A
Outer Package Material: ABS/PVC/Iron Box
Battery Protection: Over-charge, Over-discharge, Over-current, and short circuit
Cycle Life: 3000 cycles @90% D.o.D, remaining 80% Capacity
Internal Impedance: ≤50mΩ
Operating Temperature: Charging: 0~55℃ Discharging: -20~60℃ Storage: -20~60℃
Size: 395x110x293mm (LWH)
Weight: <10.9kg
Design Lifespan: 10~15 years
Manufacturer Warranty: 3 years
BeYond Outdoor 12V 100Ah Slim Lithium Battery Deep Cycle 100A Ct Discharge 3 Years Warranty $521.10 Delivered @ RollingCart
Last edited 15/08/2022 - 18:28 by 1 other user
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Hey Prong,
Thanks for the detailed comment. I was in the market for a backup battery for a vaccine fridge.
What would you recommend? It will be plugged in all the time and then connected to the vaccine fridge just in case there is a power outage.
Need it to last about 12-24 hours as I think that's how long an electricity outage would last. Thanks in advanceIt really comes down to how much electricity the fridge uses. I presume it is 240V. You can look up the specs and power use if you have the specific fridge model?
But the best bet is to buy an energy meter and measure exactly how much the fridge uses in a 24 hour period, and what the peak power draw is. You can get a smart plug with energy meter built in for about $20 from Bunnings, or online places such as Amazon or eBay. Or just a simple one with a display.
LiFePO4 batteries (such as this one) are not really ideal for backup batteries. They will do the job just fine, but generally will be much more expensive than a lead acid setup. LiFePO4 batteries are great, but key advantages such as high cycle life and low weight have little benefit for a backup system. LiFePO4 also generally prefers not to sit at full charge long term - you can just partway charge them, but then you don't get the full capacity.
Lead acid batteries on the other hand are cheaper, and prefer to sit at full charge. They don't last as many cycles, but in backup use they are rarely cycled so it doesn't make much difference.
Then it comes down to how fancy a system you want, and what your budget is. If you want a simply system (as you describe) where you physically unplug the fridge from the wall, and plug it into the backup system, then it's pretty simple to set up. You just need a battery charger, batteries, and an inverter. If you need it to automatically switch over to the backup when the power goes out, then it becomes a somewhat more complex and expensive setup.
As a comparison, I run an off grid setup on a houseboat. I have a decent sized inverter household fridge, which uses about 1000 Wh per day. A 100Ah battery has around 1200 Wh available, but after efficiency losses then more like 1000 Wh. So one battery would run my fridge for 24 hours. My fridge uses about 65W when running (250W max), so only needs a small inverter. Your vaccine fridge may use more power than that if large, if it has a glass front etc.
A decent quality 120Ah AGM battery will cost $200 - $300 each. Then 12V battery charger, and inverter. Cheap ones cost about $50 (each), so it depends on budget and quality. I have had no issues with a cheap inverter for camping, but for my houseboat I have a slightly more expensive one - a few hundred dollars.
Depending on your budget, you can get ready built or custom built systems. Or DIY your own, which is quite simple.
The other option that springs to mind is moving the vaccines to another fridge in the event of a power outage?
I am not sure if this is possible, or vaccines need a very specific fridge / accurate temperature control. But you can buy 12V camping fridges for a few hundred dollars, depending on size. They use a lot less power than a large fridge. For example, I have one that uses about 250 Wh a day - one quarter of a household fridge. It is smaller though.
But if this is an option, then you don't need an inverter. A 12v camping fridge + smaller battery (and battery charger) will cost about the same, or perhaps less than a backup system for the existing fridge. The camping fridge can also be left running and used day to day as extra storage.
Anyway, happy to answer any questions :)
Great knowledge and effort into replying. Interesting and informative read, appreciated.
Not that great of a deal compared to other recent LifePO4 deals.
$10 cheaper on eBay too - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/373494696081
(it shows up as $519 for me with eBay plus)
Also there is something weird going on with the specs. The website lists the BMS cut off discharge voltage as 9.4V, which is very low. Even the 10.4v listed here is not ideal. But eBay lists it as 11.2v. The discharge cut off voltage isn't on the printed on the battery specs, and there is no data sheet, or info on how the warranty works.
11.2v discharge cut off is common for 'better' and is kinder to the batteries. For LifePo4, there's very little capacity below 12v, and only a few percent under 11.2v. Often lower voltages are used where the cells are not amazing quality (or are higher capacity, but worn second hand batteries) so they can meet the Ah rating. That may not be the case here, but it's worth noting.
As a comparison, in last months eBay 17% off deals, you could a VoltX Premium slimline 100Ah battery delivered for the same price - $580.
The VoltX batteries have a 5 year warranty, double the charge rate (100A) and a discharge cut off voltage of 11.2v.
Still, if you need the particular form factor right away (non slimline batteries are generally cheaper) and have the setup do do a proper capacity check, it might be an ok deal.