Screen Size (Inches): 65
Energy Rating: 5.5
Dimensions: 1446.2 (W) x 888 (H) x 302 (D)
Screen Type: QLED
Energy Consumption: 408
Screen Resolution: Ultra HD
Kilowatts: 210
Weight: 19.9
Warranty Duration: 3 Years
TCL C725 Series 65 Inch (165cm) Ultra HD QLED Android TV $739.00 (Was $1599.00) @ Myer
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TCL typically are.
Though, its QLED, so for the people who dont see the sparkle, they'll rave about the quality.
For people sensitive to the tech, they'll feel like they're looking at a glitter snow globe.
Its like DLP in projectors; if you see it, you see it. If you dont, you love it.
Did not know about such a thing. Did know about DLP rainbows though. I wonder if both things affect the same people more frequently
I have a TCL QLED tv, I have noticed a sparkle every now and then, didn't realise that was the cause!
I musn't be too sensitive to it though, as its never really bothered me.
Funny, I can't do DLP, but have noticed nothing with this.
It's pretty good. Speakers are very average but otherwise I think it's worthwhile at this price
Whats not? Your content?
Their eyes
they should list 4k on title
It says Ultra HD, which is 4k or 8k and It's safe to assume that a sub $800 tv isn't going to be 8k…
What is "UltraHD" spec in your world?
@sunnyc: You made a comment on TV specs.
Why would you comment a technical criticism, if you didn't know the basics?
@sunnyc: Why are you complaining about "what you know"? It's not a subjective issue of your understanding. Many users above has clearly stated that UHD is the industry term for 4k. If you admit that HD is the abbreviation of 1080, then it should be easy to accept that UHD is 4k.
@GrimCheaper: Yeah, I didn’t know before, SUHD turns to be only around 2k, I didn’t know it was 4K because it only implied UHD and not 4K until I checked the website
It's UHD so it practically is
Why is the back of the TV shown here but when clicked into it I see the front of the TV?
The code is doing its best to scrape the website to find the most relevant image for the thumbnail.
The front will be a static advertising image. Its not a demo.
The rear photo is the only one with actual 'information' you can gather from a picture.
After my last experience I'm never buying TCL again. Slow, buggy and laggy as fk. Hisense is 100 times better
Yeah I have to agree with you there. Slow and buggy as all hell. I needed to buy a FireStick to make the thing usable.
I might have to do the same, or buy a google tv
To be fair, this is really the best way to go about it - separate out the "smart" from the "tv". Upgrade them independently, instead of needing to upgrade both when only one starts to fall behind.
Yeah 100%. I can't complain about the quality of the display itself, it's perfectly fine.
Agree with jonzay. Recently purchased an Eko from big W knowing the stock software would be garbage. Added a nvidia shield as part of the setup, works perfectly.
@abc12345: Please explain the logic behind buying the cheapest, nastiest TV and the most expensive streaming box to go with it? It seems insane to me. You'd be better off spending $300 more on the TV.
@tp0: 75 inch tv for $850, Nvidia for $189 - $1039 total
I couldn't find a 75 inch 4k tv with decent software to match that price.
Agreed. Not sure why people harp on about onboard TV os.
If you're into your viewing, grab a Shield and be done with it.
My TV is purely a display device. I don't bother with any of the inbuilt apps.@Maz78: Whilst I agree, many people who aren't into tech at all, just want it all built-in, they don't want to plug anything else in and fart around as this can be annoying/frustrating to them.
But yes, I personally never use the Google TV OS built into my TV. it's purely a monitor/display.@SimAus007: Depends on the TV. Recent Sony Android TVs have about 75% of the performance of a Shield. For the average user that's more than suitable. Recent LG webOS TVs perform well enough, the 2022 models appear to be even better.
If you buy cheap, crappy TVs then drop $300 on a Shield you might be doing yourself a disservice. That $300 can go towards a better TV with better picture quality and a perfectly serviceable smart OS solution.
Having had a Kogan TV, I don’t think there is anything more annoying than slow software on a TV.
Praise be.
It's now our patio TV, we're one upgrade away from being Koganless.
Start up time is embarrassing
I just noticed its android. Yeah, nope. WebOS please its 'free' too.
If you still have a TCL tv, go into developer menu, and turn off the animations, and set "dont keep background processes" on; or perhaps set it to 1.
Yeah, it means your apps need to reload as you switch, but it means the one you're in, is fast.
Thx I'll give it a go
Try forcing GPU hardware accelerarion and stuff too; its a bit trial and error, but android is setup for battery devices. So there's usually a few things that help accelerate, when battery is no longer a concern (like, always using the GPU, not the CPU)
@MasterScythe: Do you know how to disable standby? I connect the tv to smart outlet, everytime I turn on the smart outlet, tv on standby mode, had to manually turn on tv with remote?
@htc: I doubt thats a thing.
Outside of your specific use case, there's literally nowhere else that would be handy.
I dont like your odds sorry.Perhaps add an IR blaster to your home automation, and add an 'on' signal to the command you use for your smart outlet?
@htc: Is there a specific reason why you're turning off the power to your TV with a smart outlet? TVs are designed to be connected to power 24/7 these days, and they sip very little power once they're "off" (usually around 1W or less).
@deadpoet: I want to be able to turn it on with a voice command. Do you know if there is a way to turn on the tv while in standby mode with a voice command. It works with my non smart sony tv, I turn off the outlet with google voice command, and can turn on the tv with google command.
@htc: Ah, I see.
I think if you are super keen, you can look into getting a programmable IR transmitter that is "smart" capable/Internet-connected, and then clone the turn on/turn off IR signal from your TV's remote control. I'm not familiar with this and have never tried it, but I'm sure you can Google it and there will be tutorials out there for this.
Same here, a firestick/chromecast is almost a requirement as the UI was incredibly slow for me.
Just turning on the TV took ~60 - 90 seconds, maybe this is quite standard for budget TVs but coming from only using Samsung/LG/Sony it felt bad
Yeah it was only a bedroom tv so I didn't want to spend much but holy hell its garbage. Spend the extra cash and get a decent brand people.
But one thing I think may not be acheived is playing DOLBY-True HD or DTS-MA-HD content on firestick/or any external device via HDMI port due to licensing limitation.
Would like to know if somebody can check & confrm, as it has eARC & able to send DOLBY-True HD or DTS-MA-HD to home theater over HDMI, or any other suggestio to play DOLBY-True HD or DTS-MA-HD content via HDMI in -thanks
I have a Hisense and a TCL. My TCL is about 5 years old with Android which is slow, but usable. Viida OS on the Hisense is hands down the worst OS on the market. If you're buying a Hisense you need to get a shield/apple TV/firestick for it to be usable.
Yeah I agree, I have a Hisense 65 inch TV running Android TV. The OS is garbage.
Must be bad if you think Hisense is better, the Hisense U8G i had for a few days which i had to return was insanely slow and laggy.
Tv quality is excellent though, better than anything in the price range. I always use an apple tv irrespective of what tv I'm using. Although I do really like webos on lg oleds.
My TCL TV broke down within warranty, and they replaced it with a "new" TV that was logged into a previous owner's Google account with full access to their emails.
Oh dear.
Except Hisense play silly buggers in Australia, and rename their TV models to match their better speced and highly rated models they sell in the US (at least on the lower end TVs)
agree, it's so confusing as almost all in-depth product reviews are from overseas.
210 kilowatts? I would buy this but can't afford the electricity bill
Remember they're rated in years.
Thats quite typical for a 45-50" of CCFL type LCD's. So they're getting better with LED tech.
Right, this doesn't make sense at all
Yeah, I felt the same way.
Look up the math they use on the EnergyStar website.They use their own formulae.
All white goods and home appliances do this; its silly. But its at least standard.
@MasterScythe: Is it 210 kw HOURS at a certain usage maybe? That would make more sense. Because 210,000 joules per second per year makes no sense whatsoever
@JCurran: Yeah, the EnergyStar ratings have an expected use per day listed.
I agree with you, the terms are annoying.
Scientifically, one kilowatt-hour is equal to 3600 kilojoules. So however many hours a day EnergyStar says we watch TV, etc etc.
I'm just saying how it is; I agree its harder to calculate ><
@MasterScythe: Ah so the listing is missing the "H" from "KwH". I agree though, just list the power usage in watts like every other appliance, don't know why they have to complicate it!
@JCurran: kWh not KwH! The rule is that if it's named after a person (i.e. James Watt) then the unit is spelled in long form without a capital letter (e.g. 100 watts) but the short form has a capital letter (100W) but kilo and hour have a capital in neither case!
@JCurran: The energy label is just utter balls! I think its so people dont realise how much energy a large screen 8K TV actually uses - some around 950watts (more than my aircon)! For those less cluey..thats a lot. My 47" uses 48 watts for reference.
Anyway, I believe the rating is something like the total energy used in a year, if the TV ran for 10 hours a day and was in standby for the other 14…Multiplied by the number of birthdays you have in a year.
So 210 000/365/10 (x1 if you want ;) = approx 57 watts. Which is VERY good…a little too good..its the same usage as my old 80cm CRT… Remember when we used to use cm in Australia..ffs! BUT WAIT .. You may have noticed this thing has two energy references…Energy Usage:400 (with no unit of measure of course). I recon this is the actual KWh usage figure. Which is 100 watts and the lower side of average. As for the 210KWh.. F .knows…
Anyway..TCL seem to be the leader in energy efficiency. BUT… If you put 2 TVs together, you may find the TCL default backlight is lower…therefore you think it uses less energy, but you can adjust others the same, or better. So personally, i take in a plug in energy meter, setup a couple of tvs to look their best, then simply read off the usage in glorious WATTS!
The theory is sound it's just not tailored to personal use.
210 kWh / year, based on 10 hrs / use a day which is what the Energy Rating stickers are calculated for.210000 Wh / year if used for 10 hrs / day.
575.34 Wh / day if used for 10 hrs.
57.5 Wh / hr.Based on a unit price of 30c/kWh that's 17.26 c / day to run it.
Energy sticker says 400 (which one would assume would be KWh)..which would be closer to being right. The 210KWh… Mystery!
Fun fact ..at that energy rate ..this thing will produce 262Kg of Carbon Dioxide per year.
TV seems not interested
No, just showing off its thic booty
Specifications doesnt mention vesa mount. So be aware if you want to hang on the wall.
You can see the Vesa mount screw holes in the rear picture
wow that is dirt cheap! this is a pretty good TV.. even at the $1000 mark..
Tried ordering with delivery to the gold coast. Out of stock
Same. Tried GC address and Bris address, both OOS :( Doesn't allow pickup either.
$75 shipping for me. Sydney metro
Even for $814 delivered (sydney metro) this is a great deal. Shame there's nowhere else in my house to put a TV
OOS
Picked up one for $1125 earlier this year. Happy with it for what I spent.
My main issue is that I have to power on my amp before the TV to get surround sound via ARC, but think that's mostly down to having an older amp that has ARC but not eARC.
And the main menu can run a little slow, particularly after a cold boot.
Nooooo all gone!
Is the P725 better than this telly?
No, it's a step down. No qled
Rubbish tv brand. Mine got massive screen burn by playing games. So i would eee game health bars etc when watching TV. Better to leave the TV making to reputable companies
QLED is still LCD. How can you get screen burn on an LCD screen? Unless you are using the OLED model.
Never said i had this model. Just my experience with the brand
Purchased TCL75C727(very similar with extra local dimming) around 6 months ago. Reboot your OS if you feel laggy, probably once a week that only took less than 30 seconds which doesn’t bother me. For $739, this is bargain. I don’t think there is better TV at this price. A lot of people here compared this TV to $1000+ TV
Yeah I've got the same as you. Really happy with it.. don't really use the OS so haven't noticed that issue.
55C727 here
My order was cancelled with no reason. Myer sucks.
I went for the 55C727 with all the extra features Dolby vision/Atmos VRR etc even says Google TV seems to match other competitors yet much cheaper
The only complaint I would have is how slow Myer is processing / dispatching orders…
Will be a long wait to receive it lol
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Is this actually a decent TV ?