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Renogy 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter w/ UPS Function 12V DC 230V 50HZ AC $169.99 (Was $219.99) Shipped @ Renogy Amazon AU

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Renogy 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter w/ UPS Function 12V DC 230V 50HZ AC $169.99 (Was $219.99) Shipped @ Renogy Amazon AUAffiliate
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AssociatedJudy Yan @ Renogy on 27/12/2021 - 16:52 amazon.com.au (393 clicks)
Last edited 04/01/2022 - 20:32 by 1 other user
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The perfect addition to any off-grid system, whether for a van or a cabin, the Renogy 1000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter acts as a DC to AC converter that allows you to power your household appliances. Unlike modified sine wave inverters, this 1000W inverter is a pure sine wave, capable of producing cleaner, smoother, and more reliable electricity to operate tools, fans, lights, and other electronics without interference. Many off-grid systems require a 12V solar inverter to power everyday electronics and this one includes multiple protections to help things run smoothly and safely.

The AC priority switch function enables the inverter automatically switch from the battery (DC) to the mains (AC) and vice versa whenever the utility company takes/loses power!

Safe
Electronic overload protection with automatic shutdown.
Built-in internal backup DC fuse provides added safety.
Low battery voltage protection with automatic shutdown.
Over temperature protection with automatic shutdown.
Output short circuit protection.
UPS (AC priority switch) function: Transfers input power between battery supply & AC main within 50mS

RENOGY 1000W 12V PURE SINE WAVE INVERTER
Input Voltage: 12VDC Continuous Power: 1000W
Surge Power: 2000W Output Voltage: 220VAC±10
Output Frequency (Nominal): 50Hz±0.3 Output Wave form:Pure Sine Wave
No Load Current Draw: < 1A Input Voltage Range: 11-16Vdc
Low Voltage Shutdown: 10Vdc Recover from low voltage protection
Battery supply & AC main transfer time within 50ms Efficiency: > 90%
Dimensions: 34.2 x 17.3 x 7.6 cm Weight: 2.6Kg
Certifications：
CE YES
EMC YES

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
Electrical & Electronics Power Inverter Renogy

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closed Comments

  • EchoEcho on 27/12/2021 - 16:55
    +7

    Cheaper by 10% on the eBay store with the BD10OFF code: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/293399740739

  • Skitzout on 27/12/2021 - 17:16

    Warranty?

    • REDTUTE on 28/12/2021 - 09:02

      They don't do warranties if you just on a few Elec Facebook groups you find lots of people have had issues even getting hold of anyone to discuss a warranty claim.

  • DonWilson on 27/12/2021 - 17:22
    +1

    Struggling to find how long it can sustain the 2,000W/surge amount. Like if I had a microwave that pulled 1,500W and I wanted to run it for 4 minutes… ?

    • closey on 27/12/2021 - 17:47

      I'm guessing it wouldn't surge for four minutes.

      • DonWilson on 27/12/2021 - 17:52

        2-3 minutes is normal. 5 minutes is not the standard but certainly an option. I'd like the specs to say.

    • tunzafun001 on 27/12/2021 - 17:59

      I got a 2500/ 5000w inverter from Kogan for $200.

      Will run the microwave all day no problem, or coffee machine, toasted cheese maker etc..

      But I'm running it via my Mitsubishi PHEV and have a 2.5kw DC DC converter instead of an alternator.

      That's how you convince people to go EV ;)

      • DannyBoy on 27/12/2021 - 22:33

        Out of curiosity how are you running it ?

        • tunzafun001 on 28/12/2021 - 01:11

          Just via the Aux battery.

    • REDTUTE on 28/12/2021 - 09:03

      It's 1000w inverter with a peak load 2000w of only for a few seconds.

  • mynamechecksout on 27/12/2021 - 17:43

    Can this be used as a dedicated ups for my Intel Nuc PC?

  • Russ on 27/12/2021 - 18:24
    +5

    There are so many things wrong with this inverter.

    • If you want 1000W continuous, you'd be crazy to use a 12V input, you'd use a 48V or higher battery. The reason is that your wire thickness gets insane, and the losses within the inverter are much higher.

    • Some people will try to run it from their car battery, which is not rated for this sort of use, normally it only supplies high current when your starter motor is running. Drawing 1000+W, you'll get maybe a few minutes before the electrolyte in the battery boils, blowing pressure seals in your battery, possibly spraying battery acid into your engine compartment.

    • Drawing 1000W from the 230V output will mean about 100A drawn from the battery, 2000W means about 200A. Here's a cable rated to 145A continuous in open air (so air can cool the cable), it's $21/metre and you need two wires: https://www.jaycar.com.au/black-2g-car-power-cable-sold-per-…

    • The wire needed is so thick, that you can't just wrap it under the screws, you'll need properly-terminated cable with ring terminals, and they will need to be compression fittings on the ring terminals because soldering such terminals is nearly impossible, you'd need a soldering iron with huge wattage. And then the PVC insulation will probably melt off several inches of the wire.

    • bjdchwr on 27/12/2021 - 18:41
      +2

      Basically the law of physics, P=I*V, where I is more of the problem.
      Also the lower the voltage, the higher the power loss and voltage drop across the line - this explains why the power transmission is done in extremely high voltages.

      Most modern high power UPS uses 48V battery or at least mid-ranges use 24V system.

      • Russ on 27/12/2021 - 18:53

        Basically the law of physics, P=I*V

        When combined with Ohms law, you derive the function P=R*(I^2), which is more scary.

        Heat generated in wires (due to their resistance) goes up with the square of the current, so 10x the current becomes 100x the heat generated. This is why you can't use 10A-rated wire at 100A, the heating becomes 100x larger (which will typically melt the insulation off the wire, and make the wire glow a nice orange colour for a second or two before it melts). I've seen some pretty impressive accidents with wiring!

        Most modern high power UPS uses 48V battery or at least mid-ranges use 24V system.

        Some go considerably higher, the Tesla Powerwall has a battery system supplying 350V-450V to the inverter. But that can only be done in an enclosed system, that's too high a voltage to be safe for non-electricians to access. For battery packs where non-electricians can touch the terminals, I believe the maximum DC voltage permitted in Australia is 90V (SELV rating).

    • REDTUTE on 28/12/2021 - 09:18

      There nothing wrong with using 1000w inverter or even 3000va/2600w inverter at 12v if you have cabling and battery bank to handle it.

      3000va/2600w inverter needs 70mm min spec but preferably 95mm and a cable lug crimper to crimp on the lugs it's not rocket science.

      Nobody is upgrading there caravan to 48v to run an small inverter, when you get into the bigger systems and inverter above 3000va there is a huge bonus of stepping up a to 24v in boats/buses/Caravans or 48v in offgrid houses.

      • Russ on 28/12/2021 - 13:44

        and a cable lug crimper to crimp on the lugs it's not rocket science.

        I reckon at least 95% of ozbargainers don't know what a cable lug crimper looks like, nor have access to one. So for them, it is effectively "rocket science".

        Nobody is upgrading there caravan to 48v to run an small inverter

        I think most ozbargainers would consider this a large inverter. What would you plug in that draws more than 1000W? The only thing I can think of is a kettle, and 1000W kettles are available.

        Far more ozbargainers go camping with a 4WD than with a caravan, and while their 4WD battery will run this inverter, it won't run it for long before becoming dangerous. There are no warnings on the Amazon page that you need a battery bank, nor any mention of what size wire is needed. Hence my posting.

        Many Ozbargainers may also think that they can connect this inverter to their 4WD battery with their "1000A" battery jumper cables, not realising that the 1000A is an intermittent rating. This inverter is quite dangerous in unskilled hands.

  • nuno on 27/12/2021 - 20:02
    -5

    looks like cheap chinese shit

    • medium_tight on 27/12/2021 - 20:08

      Mmmkay….but how about the inverter?

  • alvian on 03/01/2022 - 23:55

    Fake "Was" price. Now shows the "real RRP": $179.99.

    • AssociatedJudy Yan @ Renogy on 04/01/2022 - 20:24
      -1

      Please note: The last promotional price was 179.99.
      Here is the listing: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/294083418127. And the price is 219.99.

      • alvian on 04/01/2022 - 20:55

        I don't care about your eBay listing. This offer was from Renogy on Amazon. Therefore, explain this text from your Renogy Amazon product page. It is written RRP: $179.99.

        • AssociatedJudy Yan @ Renogy on 04/01/2022 - 21:07

          We seller set the RRP to 219.99 on Amazon. And this price is the sale price.
          The last promotional price was 179.99. the sale price is 169.99 now. So Amazon will display the last price.

          • alvian on 04/01/2022 - 21:14
            +1

            @Judy Yan: Amazon displays Was for the last price, like this here: Was $27.99

            Your Amazon page displays RRP with this explanation:

            Recommended Retail Price (RRP) — The RRP displayed is the most recent manufacturer’s recommended retail price made available to Amazon AU.

            $179.99 is not "the last price", it is the recommended retail price.

            And how often did your sell at "RRP of $219.99"? Four little blips for less than a day.

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