This is a good polisher for a beginner.
Its a DA so damaging anything is difficult, but with 21mm of throw, it will polish a car at a decent speed (many others are only 15mm or even 9mm).
Just a reminder to all; machines are for paint correction, you do not need them to wax.
Enjoy!
No problem.
For anyone who's new;
Id recommend meguiars ultimate compound for use with this.
Its so amazingly easy to use, and transitions between a strong, to a weak cut, nice and quick.
Near impossible to mess up.
Can you please let me know if you see any cheaper ones? I am quite tight on money as well
Honestly, if you can wait 1 extra week, and save $10 more, the meguiars is worth it. Its one of those few miracle products in car care.
But, if you're going to go cheaper, the newer range of Turtle is good (never use the old range if you have any 'lying around', its harsh and designed for cellulose paint).
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/turtle-wax-turtle-wax-sc…
Have to agree, Meguiar's Ultimate is top notch.
Hey, noobie here. What do you mean buy strong to weak?
Starts off as a coarse compound to remove imperfections but as you work it into the clear coat the coarseness reduces more into a polish like product. It is also easy to remove with a microfibre cloth at the end.
saturday with zippay instore. for 10% cashback
On a side note, what's best car polish kit for beginners? Got a suv though. Any advices?
Polish? As in the consumable product?
Meguiars Ultimate Compound.
I almost never reach for a dedicated polish.
It either has enough scratches for a UC treatment, or they're minor enough that a Cleaner Wax of any sort will hide and fill them.
Paint is only so thick, if you can truly hide scratches, rather than 'cut down' to them, so much the better.
Also, If you knew me IRL you'd know I normally hate big brands; going out of my way to mix my own chemicals or make do with less; claiming 'markup' by the big guys.
Meg's is that one exception; their stuff is strangely affordable, goes on sale often, and actually does exactly what it says on the bottle.
Also, since it breaks down, it sort of saves money also. One bottle takes place of a 3 stage system; so while you might have to do it twice if you need a harsh cut, you only have to buy 1 bottle.
Got a couple of ~10cm vertical scratches in my clearcoat thanks to some shopping centre carpark vandal. Have tried to buff them out without "going hard" but I've made sfa difference. Any simple advice MS? Thx.
If they're deep; mask them off quite tightly.
Spray some clearcoat.
Sand with 2000grit.
Ultimate compound.
Wax.
Basically, if they're not compounding out, they need filling.
does this come with some pads already ?
…..site doesn’t say, is this any good for waxing e.g wax removal, work.
It comes with a 6” foam polishing pad in the box (not great). I ended up replacing the backing plate with a 5” and use 3 stage correction pads on it. The machine is surprisingly good considering how cheap it is. Yes, it’s louder and heats up a bit when compared to a “premium polisher”, but for the home user this machine is perfect.
5” backing plate and pads, super cheap don’t seem to be super cheap on those, ebay ? any links ……very interested in this polisher but don’t want to get burned on accessorizing it with extra pads and stuff to make it true.y useful.
Tradetools.
Velcro pads are $15 each in all different stages of Cut/polish.
Random note: you dont generally use a machine for waxing. Its faster by hand.
Also, wax removal, you'd normally do a once yearly wash with dishsoap.
Thanks OP, I actually didn’t impulse buy others from your post last month and just ordered this due to your comments on throw and size
I just cut and waxed a car I’m doing up by hand but it could’ve been better so I’m hoping that this and the megiuars compound work well
Any recommendations for wax/polish?
With Megs, if you have 2k paint, you usually dont need a polish.
As for wax, depends how precious you are with your project.
If money allows, autoglym paste wax is truly a wonderful product (it better be at $100 for a tiny tub!) But it lasts ages.
But in the affordable range; Ive had amazing results with both;
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/turtle-wax-turtle-wax-ha…
And
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/bowdens-own-bowdens-own-…
Realistically, if you wash your car often, and wax every few months, all the carnauba waxes are pretty similar, its when you go synthetic that the price, and the quality jumps up.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/meguiars-meguiars-nxt-ge…
Or
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/autoglym-autoglym-ultra-…
regardless
Do yourself a favor, and purchase this stuff, as well as whatever you choose:
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/turtle-wax-turtle-wax-dr…
Use it with every wash. Ive tried all the 'lazy wax' type products, and this guy takes the cake.
Genuinely stops water spots, can be used on a sopping wet car, leaves a shine, smells ok, and is the cheapest.
Just lightly mist the panel before you dry it, and it handles all the usual concerns, including refreshing your wax.
What are your thoughts on this wax?
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care-panel/car-care/polish-r…
I've used it before after Ultimate Compound and it seemed to bring a nice result?
That link goes to a polish, not a wax sorry.
But if it's a megs wax, ive used them all, and none 'failed'; just their entry level carnauba wax felt thinner to apply and remove than bowdens, at the same price.
Hell, the type of wax i want can change based on how damaged a paintjob is!
If its crazed and cracked, plus a light colour paint, im reaching for the cheapest thickest paste wax I can find to fill those imperfections.
If its new metallic paint, im going for something hybrid and long lasting.
If its an intricate pearl where the clearcoat itself is part of the sparkle, ill often just go a synthetic sealant and avoid 'natural' waxes altogether.
Its a hobby, i like car care, everyone will find their fave products :)
@MasterScythe: sorry for the wrong link - I meant this: https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care-panel/car-care/wax/megu…
This is not carnauba, but synthetic wax, so presumably will last longer?
Thanks for your advice though!
@placard: Yeah, its a rebranding and slight step-down from what used to be nxt techwax2.0.
Its good stuff, but being fully synthetic, its shiny and thin.
Amazing on metallic, and good condition paints; but being that thin, its very sacrificial.
Lasts a long time under normal conditions, but say, wiping off bat droppings? Dont expect there to be wax left over after dealing with that acid.
What do you think about FUSSO COAT 12 MONTHS or WOLFGANG DEEP GLOSS 3.0 as a base fundament coat for a brand new white car (flat white/ not pearl)? Also what would be your preference as a topper or after wash aid on top of the base coat to be used on regular bases after every wash to maintain? Big thanks in advance!
No personal experience with either.
However; fusso coat can take a hike.
It has ptfe in it; for the same reason as it was taken out of oil, it shouldnt be in a coating.
It doesn't bond with a surface until 327degC, up until then, its just 'grit'. No thanks, buzzwords ahoy. No thanks.
That wolfgang stuff deserves more research… if you read its site;
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is a water-based, oxygen activated paint sealant. After buffing off the sealant, the remaining coating needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully bond to the paint. Exposure to moisture during this time will drown the polymers.
Its literally a clear acrylic paint, likely with SiO2 and/or TiO2 in the paint; kinda unique.
If you own a hypercar and need to protect it, that at least sounds like a genuine coating.
Honestly, my cars are 'shiny racecars', mainly jdm hero cars.
Japanese cars do not come with amazing paint like a euro car does, so expense like that has never appealed.
Skip that Fusso stuff though. Im not thrilled with the wolfgang relying on buzzterms like "german polymers" either; polymers dont have an ethnicity.
Anyone who needs to "sell the product" rather than selling the result, im cautious of….
As for topper?
Washing weekly, i want it cheap, and I want it to work.
Turtle wax and dry.
Totally eliminated water spots as i dry, leaves one hell of a shine, smells good, is super cheap, goes a super long way, and is water based to not strip my 'real' wax.
Im sure there is better, likely one of those ceramic concotions, but I wash weekly, I dont need better, it needs to be cheap, and work; its my 'weekly spray', longevity isnt a concern; its very easy to reach overkill with a wash/dry aid.
@MasterScythe: Thank you very much for your opinion. It's really helpful especially there are so many products on the market that makes it all difficult for some one like me so your opinion means a lot. So personally what would you choose as a sealant for a very good base of protection? It's a Japanese car and not anything like a hyper super European car. Btw, that TW Wax & Dry is definitely very good option as a topper.
@wallaby12: If this is your first real dive into car care; pick an easily accessible system for inside, and a system for outside.
For outside; I personally rate Meguiars, CaliforniaCustoms, (new - post 2015) TurtleWax, Bowdens Own, Mothers.
In that order.
Interior:
Bowdens own, 303, meguiars, mothers.
Avoid Armorall (old tech), absolutely avoid NuFinish (LOADED with silicone), and avoid (only due to cost) Autoglym.
See, the thing with any sort of "care" product is to think about what you actually want. Forget the 'buzz words'.
Outside? You want to protect the paint from acid rain, UV, road grime, and droppings.
Basic good old carnauba wax does all that, but its "soft"; which is where synthetics help with longevity.
Inside, you want to nourish the plastics, but avoid high silicone, which will trap dust. You also want UV protection.
303 was (literally) designed to protect shuttles when outside the atmosphere… yeah, i think it blocks UV :p
Once you get the basics, just try to think about what benefit you'll get by spending more.
For me? i enjoy quiet shed time, waxing the car, so a hybrid wax thats shiny and thin is fine for me, I reapply often.
If you're the type to wax once every 6 months, perhaps a can of $120 autoglym 'fully synthetic' wax is worth it? And perhaps a ceramic 'topper' spray? Sure makes for a great way to throw money instead of effort; but for some people, thats their way of life.
Limit yourself to a normal shop; like sca or repco, write a list of what you plan to use, in what order, and WHY.
Best thing about all this? So long as you stay away from "strong cut" compounds, Worst case scenario?
Strip the car using dish soap, and start again!
@MasterScythe: Fantastic advice!
Speaking of Autoglym 'fully synthetic' wax - do you mean the Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection Polish? I know that Autoglym Ultra High Definition is a natural carnuba wax. I also enjoy washing and detailing cars I own so possibly I may go your way as well with a hybrid wax that I can re apply often - anything you can suggest in this area? Thank you again!!!
@wallaby12: If you're going to do it often, i like the wetlook cleaner wax
https://www.autobarn.com.au/meguiars-wet-look-polish-16oz-47…
The page says polish; but as you see on the bottle, its a cleaner wax (a wax with either a super super fine grit, or a chemical cleaner).
I like it because I live near the sea, and drive to the city; so I always have salt and soot to remove.
Also, no, i meant the autoglym ultra HD; read again, it has a lab refined carnauba in it, but its certainly not a pure carnauba wax.
@MasterScythe: Thank you very much for the above. Autoglym Ultra HD sounds like the way to go. I'll give it a try.
Also, may I please ask you what would be the best way to strip an old sealant or waxes?
@wallaby12: Use a claybar, with dishsoap and water as the lubricant. Clean as possible!
Dishsoap is designed to strip oils (therefore waxes).
Its bad for paint, and as it has salt, be sure to rinse very well; but its the cheapest way to do a stripwash.
@MasterScythe: Awesome tips :) Thanks heaps for all your help on this forum! Truly amazing job you do helping us. Appreciate it big time
Trying out the DA Polisher now. Learning a lot! Appreciate the great intel MasterScythe!!!! LEGEND
Enjoying? Did you pair it with ultimate compound? Or turtle swirl remover even?
Its amazing what "good paint" becomes after its first polish :D
@SickDmith: On european cars? Usually not, their paint is like diamond hard.
For asian? Sometimes.
As a baseline, id say 'no'. UC breaks down as you use it, if you find you're leaving scrubbing marks behind, just work the area longer before moving on.
@MasterScythe: Yeah it’s good when you’ve got a car that needs restoration and it’s coming up great
Using it with the meguiars ultimate
Should I wax by hand or DA?!
@JET101101: Hand is actually quicker, wax doesnt need to be worked.
You only use a machine for wax, if it's a cleaner-wax and you're hoping it'll remove some hairline marks.
No harm in using the machine; but a waste of a pad to dedicate one to wax.
Meguiar's 105 and 205 or ultimate?
Which is better this or the DeWalt DWP849X-XE
If you're doing a normal car, and you're not an experienced hand (or even if you are experienced, but arent working in professional shop lights); Ultimate every time.
The ONLY time ill say otherwise, is if you KNOW you need a different sort of cut, in which case, you wouldnt be asking us :p
The DeWalt is Rotary, if you already have a DA to finish with, and need a rotary to get out key-scratches or some such, it looks good, but rotary buffers are so cheap, even not on special, unless you're using it 8 hours a day, I wouldnt buy a brand name one.
Does this come with a carrying bag like the repco one? Jumped the gun and didnt realise that was a 9mm throw.. Anyone wanna buy it for what i paid for in melbourne? (brand new) $50 lol
You missed the ozb deal thread on it where I warned everyone didnt ya :p
What you have there is a motorbike polisher, or a dedicated headlight restorer.
Keep it, and fix all your mates headlights for $20; pay it off in no time.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/turtle-wax-turtle-wax-he…
Use that; one of the few products ive found better than Meguiars PlastX.
Anywho;
Still waiting to pick mine up; i have an older model. But I use fabric shopping bags for car tools.
Stops them scratching anything and doesn't collect moisture.
UPDATE - returned the repco one and got this :) does not come with a carrying bag.
Better how? The rockwell is bigger, and has an undisclosed throw (probably 15mm) so depends on your requirements.
Oh ok thanks. Also where is a good place to purchase extra pads? Should I stay away from the cheap ones on AliExpress?
Probably.
Its all foam, so you're unlikely to damage the car; but the pads will often tear themselves to shreds.
Personally, i keep an eye out on AmazonAU, because customer reviews are everywhere so I can avoid the junk.
If i need them now locally; tradetools has them for $15 or so.
For most people, a "polishing pad", or 'light cut' pad (or, multiple of them). Is all you need.
Finishing pads are softer, but, you can just apply zero downward force for the same effect…
Likewise 'cut pads' are great if you've sprayed fresh paint you want to truly cut; but even a novice painter will know that.
For a finished car, a 'harsher compound' is more than enough extra cut without relying on firm foam also.
Amazon always have nice 'kits' of foam pads for cheap; just check reviews to see if they fall apart.
@MasterScythe: @ MasterScythe
Your excellent information for this deal (which is now expired) led me to purchase this DA polisher.
I’m a complete newbie but have a few cars including a classic beetle that was repainted in two pack a few years ago so I want to get the paint in top top Nick.
Are the pads reusable and if so, how would you clean them.
Also do you have a link to the pad kits you referred to on Amazon.
Thanks a bunch mate
Tux
Is this better than the Rockwell ones that come up every now and then?
Better how? The rockwell is bigger, and has an undisclosed throw (probably 15mm) so depends on your requirements.
I honestly have no idea, but you did give me some terms to help me google what I'd need. Seems a 15mm throw would be better if it's your only DA polisher, but 21mm would be faster on flat areas.
Thanks.
Yeah, 2cm worth of throw on a 150mm pad really isnt limiting either.
Also, as the manual doesnt say, it was a guess.
If you get one, measure it and report back :)
How often do you use it?
I was thinking about applying ceramic coating… the one which will last a year or so…
It means I will use this machine once. And It will be collecting dust on the shelf for the next 12 months.
I don't think I can use it for anything else…
Every 2-3 months.
I drive my car daily, so those coatings last nowhere near the 12 months they manage in controlled environments.
All you need to do is live anywhere near the city for 'acid rain' to start stripping it.
I live near the sea, so salt air assures nothing i coat with lasts more than a few months.
Just bought one yesterday and was looking forward to using it.. just wondering about changing the backing plate, as someone in the comments above stated, and where to buy them?
Is it necessary? And is it easy to swap out? I have no experience in this realm. Thanks @MasterScythe
Not at all, use it as is. 6" is a fantastic size and a good combo between ease of use, and area coverage
Thanks OP!