How Do You Make Driving More Economical?

I have been given some tips, but would like to save more.

Please bust my myths/help.

Atm I have:

  • own an okay km/L car, with spare parts easily available.
  • Buy decent second hand, old-ish but very low km.
  • use 91 petrol
  • use the lower gears as a brake (just got told this after busting two sets of brake pads in a very short period) for an auto.
  • don't drive grumpy.
  • live closer to the areas I drive to the most
  • obviously learn how to service a car myself or marry a mechanic into the family, but those are not easy atm ha.
  • let the rain wash it

Questions:

  • slow down when turning - do fast turns affect the longevity of a car or just passenger comfort? (Edit - this is a hypothetical, I realise. the hazard of car flipping is costly)
  • slow down for small speed bumps - do suspension issues outweigh petrol usage from braking/accelerating? (Edit - I do respect the spirit of the law, speed bumps are there for a reason, kids, noise, etc, so also a hypothetical).
  • are there "economic" speeds to drive in 110 zones?

  • take toll roads or don't? (NSW)

Thoughts much appreciated, saving money but also wanting to be safe.

Updates so far from you guys, for your own inspiration:
- keep the car tidy - extra weight = more fuel usage
- keep tyres aligned and pumped up
- smooth driving is good, use pedals less where safe
- scout around for cheap petty using apps/costco
- plan trips well
- investigate diy servicing
- modify the car to make it more aerodynamic to reduce drag
- not idling the engine too much, turning it off instead
- I'll keep summarising

Comments

      • +1

        What car isn't?

        • Honda CRV was useless at it. I mean you can put it in D3 or D2 mode but it's manual and only worth on long descends. Fortuner switches to low gear and helps braking automagically.

    • I've always wondered this as well and having driven manual my whole life, I naturally slow down with engine braking. My car is 114,000klm and 10 years old, and clutch still grips and brake pads haven't been changed since new.

  • +3

    ?Rotate the wheels

    buY a 2-3 yr old car that still has warrantry

    • How much does rotating the wheels cost? Never done this.

      • use your own car jack and your mate one, rotate yourself. Free!

        • Okay cool.

      • About $40 at my local tire place.

      • +4

        You unscrew the tyres place them down, then lift the car with your hands and move it clockwise or anticlockwise depending on the wind direction so it is at your back and the sun exactly at 12pm .

        • Lol thanks :)

  • +7

    Put a glass of water on the top of your dashboard. Do not spill anything while you drive.

    • Makes sense, smooth is economical.

    • +2

      Initial D??

      • +1

        Nah, if the reference was there they woke have said tofu. Ah well

        • Never heard of Initial D, but I just looked it up. Did Takumi drive with tofu on his dash in his quest to become the best driver in Gunma? Or is it just that he delivers tofu? Where does the glass of water come into it? I'm sorry to be so clueless, lol.

          • @pjetson: He delivers tofu for his dad. Without spillng the stuff it comes in. Being a super smooth drifter

    • Get out of my dreams and into my car.

    • +2

      Gives you an added advantage of knowing if a T-Rex is trying to sneak up on you.

    • and deliver tofu

  • +1

    Walk is the cheapest and "safest" - you don't need to over think and maybe crash your car (therefore expensive!!).

    are there "economic" speeds to drive in 110 zones?

    Slipstream

    • Walking is good, agreed.

  • A wife that back-seat drives you, could make you drive slower and therefore more economically, but it's offset (and then some) by having a wife that spends money on (seemingly) unnecessary items.

    • Ha in my situation, it's pretty equal spending/supporting thankfully. But do have the backseat driving issues - with chores as penalties!! But is slow driving always more economical?

  • +5

    I OnLy uSe 95 HiGh OcTaNe fUeL, bEcAuSe “mOaR MiLeZ…”

    • I sense sarcasm. If not, references?

      • +5

        Almost every “economy” related automotive thread on here has the inevitable dunce that comes in here claiming that they only fill up on 98 and get 200km more per tank in their shitbox Falcodoor, and it’s absolute bollocks.

        Anyway, your already haves list is pretty well on the money, except I wouldn’t go “too old” on the car, as newer technology will be more efficient and easier to source parts for.

        Stick with tried and true brands that have a history of building quality cars that stand the test of time… Just have a look at how many 10~15yo Toyota Corollas you see getting around, compared to say… Peugeot anythings…

        As for your questions;

        Cornering too fast can cause premature wear out of your tyres and this can cost money. If you feel you are moving in the seat when you drive around a corner, it’s probably too fast… (or you own a Mustang and that’s how you have to drive, because it’s in the contract of sale.)

        Depends on the speed bumps… some are too harsh to hit at speed, so slow for them. And if you do have to slow down, just remember, it’s not a drag race to the next speed hump.

        Economic speed for 110km/h zone is less than 110. Over that and you risk a fine (They cost money). Any slower than that and you risk dealing with grumpy drivers. It’s more about how you get up to speed that counts. Once you are there, most car engines are pretty economical at staying at speed. (Unless it’s a 1L 3cyl Daihatsu…)

        The toll road has to save you at least, if not more money than what it costs to use it. If it saves you 8km (or about 1L of fuel in most average cars) it better cost less than 1L of fuel, so about $1.20ish. (There is also your time and sanity to consider as well, and what that’s worth to you.)

        Another good one to remember is to be in the right gear. I see so many people complain of poor fuel economy in manual cars and when I go for a drive with them, they are in 4th gear by the time they hit 30~40km/h or don’t change back when they should and just lug the engine down at low speeds in too high of a gear. This is no good for fuel economy nor for engine wear and damage.

        • +1

          Thank you, this is really good.

        • +1

          On a cents per kilometre basis I still find 98ron the cheapest but turbo / tuned / knock sensors / blah blah blah.

          Most economical speed for me is 80-90kph. I average 5.5l/100km - on one particularly good run from Cambelltown to Hurstville I averaged 4.2l/100km but that was unusual.
          Is it fun driving at 90kph in a 110 zone and no traffic? Nope. Do I do it? Nope

          • @brad1-8tsi: Oh, I agree, 98RON has its place (exotic sports cars and highly modified cars, etc.), but down the tank of an 8yo Corolla and equalling 200+ extra km per tank is just pure bullshit.

        • lug the engine down at low speeds in too high of a gear

          It depends on the engine. A nice torquey turbo petrol or diesel can be very economical if changing early - especially if you are not in a hurry and using full throttle

  • +3

    Whatever you do, please drive to the speed limit and let fast cars pass. dont do 60 in a 70 zone to save a bit of fuel.

  • +4

    You'll find that for fuel economy, your right foot is often the culprit. Learning to read traffic (including looking past the car in front of you) will allow you anticipate slowdowns and speedups. Accelerating more than needed, over-braking (meaning you have to accelerate more to get back to your previous speed) all play a factor.

    With regards to what hasn't been mentioned yet (particularly the things you do when you're not behind the wheel):
    - I find that most of my car ownership costs come from petrol usage (tho not this year) - not taking into account depreciation
    - Next, depreciation : Whichever car you choose, consider the resale value of the car (purchase price + all running costs - resale value = actual cost of owning the car)
    - Shopping around for insurance can help save hundreds a year
    - shop around for where you service the car
    - car forums are good for learning how to fix things in whichever car you choose to own. some can help you find/source parts too. look for one specific to your car if you can.

    • +1

      Thanks, I am getting inspired to diy some things.

    • +2

      This, a lot of the cars costs are not fuel, save far more than hyper mileling techniques.

      Hypermiling is something I do on long boring trips. modern cars will display real time fuel consumption data, that will answer any hypothetical eg which gear uphill, which speed best BFYB long range.

      Choice of car will really change the numbers, my daily KIa will do 6L@110kph, modded STI will do 4L@110km.

      • Yeah that's one thing I miss in an older car, that fuel efficiency data.

        By hypermiling, do you mean tailgating a truck for lower air resistance? :o

        • +2

          No, thats suicide.

          More driving and setting up car to drive economically. Mapping out speed vs fuel consumption. I know with my Kia for example, fuel economy will jump from 6 to 7L going from 107 kph to 110kph. Also use cruise control. I know truck drivers so this, very small differences in speed will add up to significant saving for them.

          Things that really helped,
          -protune on my STI, dropped fuel consumption from 8L@110kph to 4L@110kph power up 30%
          -driving style, smooth, very light throttle, use cruise control.

          Small things that have very small effect but still help;
          -changing to aero wipers,
          -my old car added a rear air diffuser, was going to do underbody aero too but sold it, STI had all that standard,
          -keeping car clean like aircraft lower drag
          -Wheels and tyre type
          -changing ariel to shark fin type from a RC car one.
          -people change mirrors, dont recommend it.
          -remove excess wight like spare, dont recommend it.

          Its all about reducing drag, modern cars tend to have all these features already where old cars dont.

          • +1

            @Bid Sniper: Thanks for clarifying. I had never considered doing those things.
            Watching ford vs ferrari has given me some perspective though, that was an epic film.
            Thanks for the advice.

            • +1

              @Embaloo: I get bored and find it fun. I use to do club motorsport so made me think about reducing drag and increasing performance. This is all penny pinching, biggest costs are; depreciation, repayments, maintenance. For me I spent more on tolls than fuel. Also maintenance, ignition system needs to be clean, so good plugs and in good condition, injector cleaner, upper engine cleaner, battery in good condition, this will affect fuel economy drastically.

              Best penny pinching I did was change car for a pushbike for work, faster too in NSW…

  • +7

    The less you use BOTH pedals, the greater your fuel economy. When safe to do so, avoid slowing down (otherwise you'll just have to accelerate all over again).

  • +3

    You could catch the bus.

    • Hehe

  • +19

    Cut a hole in the floor and run along the road. Yabba Dabba Doo!

    • Best.

  • +4

    Don't rev it over 4000rpm.

    • Okay thanks. Don't think I've seen it do that, but admittedly haven't been looking.

    • +1

      I guess that means no VTEC…

      • And no LiFT, which starts at 6000

    • +2

      Sorry.but I believe Life begins at 4000.

    • Particularly if you own a Mustang

    • +1

      4000rpm in some cars could be really high, try sticking to 2000rpm and below to see real fuel savings (though this will piss off other road users, so read the road and only be silly when not too busy).

  • +2

    the hazard of car flipping is costly

    If you're worried about flipping your car around corners then you're driving too fast.

  • +1

    Reduced weight = reduced fuel (& increased performance)
    .

    • Ah this is a good one that I often forget, thank you! Will tidy the car and actually drop those things off at the opp shop…

    • +5

      Time to go on a diet.

      • +7

        I used to love this while racing (especially on go-karts and motorcycles)… can either lose body weight, 5~10kg or spend $2,000 on carbon fibre and titanium parts to lose 3kg… :D

  • You save 100% of the fuel you dont use on trips you dont take.
    Make sure you do as much as possible when you're out.
    If you have to drop kids off at school and go shopping, don't return home in between.
    e.g: 3km home to school, 3km home to shops, 3km school to shops
    Home to School to Home to Shops to Home = 12km
    Home to School to Shops to Home = 9km
    That is a 25% fuel saving right there.

    Also make sure tyres are inflated correctly and wheel alignment is correct

    Other than that remove as much unnecessary weight as possible.

    • Ah yep thanks. What does the wheel alignment help with?

      • if the wheels are out of alignment it causes excess dragging of the tyre across the road surface.
        Scrubbing causes increased resistance which causes higher fuel consumption and tyre wear

        • Ooo good one thank you very much.

  • +1

    Go easy on the pedals for best economy. Don’t accelerate hard and don’t brake hard. Gradually slowing to a red light might mean it has a chance to turn green before you get there. If you haven’t stopped that’s less fuel you need to return to speed. Hypermiling is all about driving smoothly.

    Use a bicycle.

    90km/h is probably more fuel efficient than 110km/h. 100 is where aerodynamics really start to make a big difference to fuel burn. But saying that, you’ll get less road rage issues if you aren’t below he limit when the cars are around.

    Turning off the engine also saves fuel. It ‘costs’ around 10sec of fuel at idle to restart an engine so if you are going to be stopped for a while, and have a reliable car, switch off.

    • The road rage vs the money, yeah, I have been contemplating this one, thanks for your thoughts.

      And wow, I had always thought it took a few bucks to start my car… I will look into this one, thanks.

      • +1

        I saw a YouTube clip by an engineer who measured it at 7sec, from memory. That’s with a modern EFI vehicle that starts pretty much immediately. Stop/start technology uses some extra stuff to reduce that further. Older cars will probably use a bit more. But think 30s, not several minutes.

  • +3

    Most people at start off accelerate Very hard and brake hard. Hence waste petrol n brake pads. Not only that if kids are hidden in front they get killed. Also tailgating at less than 1 feet and also braking hard. All leads to high wear n tear of car.

  • Depends on the distances you drive, but I actually opted to buy an electric bicycle this year. My commute to work is only 11km (though it involves going over the Gateway bridge in Brisbane, hence the eBike). The eBike cost me $3.5k, and I spend $2.3k a year on tolls just getting over the bridge, not even accounting for fuel and maintenance, so can feasibly justify this within one year, if not 2 (maximum). Even bigger bonus, it helps the environment!

    • I thought you meant tolls whilst e-bikimg, but no, wow! Yeah cycling!! I am a fan of all the advantages and do currently cycle a bit!

      • Yeah, for sure. You'd be surprised how much you spend in tolls in a year. Calculating it all out was pretty staggering, so it wasn't too difficult a decision to invest in an eBike. And eBikes really do provide a hell of a lot of pedal assistance. I ride up the 12% incline on the Gateway as if it were flat. If you don't mind riding a bit slower (eBikes are limited to 25km for powered assistance), then you can easily get to work without even being remotely sweaty so you don't need a shower.

        • Yeah that's my concern coming summer. Do you have one that recharges as you ride? How exxy is the running costs? Is it easy to service yourself? Lifespan? I know most have a decent resale value if in good nick.

          • +1

            @Embaloo: Apparently there are models which have regenerative braking like electric cars, but they're $10k upwards, so no recharging while you ride here. Servicing is mostly the same as a normal bike for all the mechanical parts of it. All the electrical parts are completely sealed though, and you'd need to get them serviced at a specialist place if you wanted to maintain your warranty. The batteries apparently last around 3-5 years with heavy use - motors can last 10 years+.

  • +1

    Drive a Tesla

    • +3

      Good advice… how to be more economical… dump a further $70,000 into a vehicle… But that's all off set when you buy Tesla stock anyway… because "to the moon!!" (or Mars in Tesla's case…)

      • Hehe hmmm.

      • True that an electric vehicle is significantly more energy efficient that a fossil fuel one but you probably know that peggie.

        • +4

          Oh, I dont know. I think there is a lot of wasted energy spent talking about their new Tesla and how boom Tesla stock is. Maybe all this wasted heat, exhaust and hot air could be harnessed in some way?

    • Watch $100K burn in 4 years of depreciation. I like Teslas but wow fanbois are something else

  • +1

    Peter Brock once did a great video on this.

    Basically - look ahead and anticipate vs react, leave space so you use brakes less, drive defensively.

    I would add - walk more places!

    • Cool thanks! I'll look it up!

    • Thought you were about to bring up the atomiser or whatever it was he believed in…..

  • +1

    I was taught to drive economically by this guy. I even won the Shell fuel Economy Challenge and $5000 because of it.

    http://www.fuelacademy.com.au/

    • Wow! That's certainly economical. So many pun opportunities on that website. Are they still doing workshops? All the links seem to be about past workshops.

      Btw congrats, that's epic.

  • 1 buy a Prius C
    2 look up hyperemiling

    • @110kph Prius will be doing 5-6L/100km at 110kph, my STI (tuned) will do 4L/100km at 110kph cruise, then 11L city… Small motor struggling vs more powerful engine in its element, then it reverses city driving.

      Performance cars at speed are more economical, prius is better city mileage car.

      • This is true.
        Prius C uses in the highway 4.5.
        In the city depending on how short your drive is or not … 5 to 3.5

        • thats pretty good city!

  • -6

    Oh 4FS… just enjoy the privilege in being able to drive one of the most advanced inventions man has to offer.
    Get off the road with your wacky ideas…. what next… use cars and people to slow your vehicle.
    You are expressing negligence on the road with your silly ideas.

    • Ha! Okay. It's certainly a discussion. I do usually enjoy driving, and you are correct, it is a big privilege to be able to afford to drive in the first place.

    • Fuel is expensive. Why not try to reduce consumption?

    • OK boomer.

  • +1

    I tend to ignore fuel economy because no matter what I do my car will use at least 15L/100km haha.

    • Your v10 dodge viper

      • +4

        2JZ with a big turbo, gotta pay to play I guess

        • OOooh, nice ….got pics of your modded supra?

  • +1

    By driving less, and not focusing on the car as a desire, rather a requirement, and investing in cars that deliver top doller to economical value, rather ford Mustangs and Ferraris that do not apply.

    Ask who are you driving for, is it your ego or for family values, or reasonable things that make sense when used in your life.

  • +1

    Don't be those stupid people that wait until they hit the hill before accelerating at 3000rpm.

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