How Do You Make Driving More Economical?

Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:17
Last edited 07/09/2020 - 20:03

I have been given some tips, but would like to save more.

Please bust my myths/help.

Atm I have:

  • own an okay km/L car, with spare parts easily available.
  • Buy decent second hand, old-ish but very low km.
  • use 91 petrol
  • use the lower gears as a brake (just got told this after busting two sets of brake pads in a very short period) for an auto.
  • don't drive grumpy.
  • live closer to the areas I drive to the most
  • obviously learn how to service a car myself or marry a mechanic into the family, but those are not easy atm ha.
  • let the rain wash it

Questions:

  • slow down when turning - do fast turns affect the longevity of a car or just passenger comfort? (Edit - this is a hypothetical, I realise. the hazard of car flipping is costly)
  • slow down for small speed bumps - do suspension issues outweigh petrol usage from braking/accelerating? (Edit - I do respect the spirit of the law, speed bumps are there for a reason, kids, noise, etc, so also a hypothetical).

  • are there "economic" speeds to drive in 110 zones?

  • take toll roads or don't? (NSW)

Thoughts much appreciated, saving money but also wanting to be safe.

Updates so far from you guys, for your own inspiration:
- keep the car tidy - extra weight = more fuel usage
- keep tyres aligned and pumped up
- smooth driving is good, use pedals less where safe
- scout around for cheap petty using apps/costco
- plan trips well
- investigate diy servicing
- modify the car to make it more aerodynamic to reduce drag
- not idling the engine too much, turning it off instead
- I'll keep summarising

Automotive

Comments

  • AdosHouse on 02/09/2020 - 22:26
    +5

    There is an issue if you went through two set of pad quickly, have it looked at.

    Learning how to do basic servicing is easy. Buy a workshop manual.

    As for economic speeds, usually this is lower, down closer to the 80km/h or lower.

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:29

      Ok, thanks it was 1.5 years, city driving, bad?

      • Mechz on 02/09/2020 - 22:48
        +4

        They should last much longer but it really depends how many Ks you did in that time.

        • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:48

          Okay. probs 15K.

          • saltypete on 03/09/2020 - 08:25
            +10

            @Embaloo: +1 for giving your brakes a good hard look. Does your steering wheel vibrate of shudder under braking? If so you may need to machine or replace your discs. 2 sets in 15k is a problem.
            In city driving imagine that there is a peach between your foot and the accelerator and go gentle. Also anticipate - are lights ahead red? Stop accelerating. Keep a bit of distance between the car in front helps this. Use the 3 second rule, and when you are at the lights, be far enough back from the car in front that you can see where their wheels touch the road.

            • brad1-8tsi on 03/09/2020 - 08:40
              +5

              @saltypete: I'd be inclined to look at driving style too. It will also help with fuel economy.

              Source: 195,000km and still original front brakes and I live in a densely populated area with lots of traffic.

              • Embaloo on 03/09/2020 - 08:49

                @brad1-8tsi: Woooah I am impressed.

              • croc330 on 04/09/2020 - 17:36

                @brad1-8tsi: Curious what make / model you have. We have a '06 Prius still on original brake pads at 170,000 km. I drive it the most, but the wife drives in a hurry - always. Densely populated but 3/4 of the daily travel is on motorway at 100kph.

                Had to replace my nieces brakes on 06 Corolla (low km) and decided to get factory pads.

                Cheap pads are for the birds.

                • brad1-8tsi on 07/09/2020 - 08:29

                  @croc330:

                  Curious what make / model you have.
                  2007 Skoda Octavia 1.8tsi manual hatchback

                  I'm surprised too given that you get folk on the Skoda forum that need brakes at 30k km.

                  The rears went to 155k km. Under light braking they engage before the fronts to reduce nose dive, so it makes sense they would go first.

                  I don't think this is car specific as my U13 Bluebird and the Gen2 Liberty RX both went forever on brakes.

                  It's not that I drive slowly either. I'm often told I drive too fast - especially around corners.

                  Here's a sample of where I drive. Go to the start if you want to hear me waffle on about scrap metal. :-)
                  https://youtu.be/MBlTbhhcdsM?t=232

              • saltypete on 07/09/2020 - 09:55

                @brad1-8tsi: Awesome! I’m at 60k and have about 1/2 left so will do nowhere near yours.

                • brad1-8tsi on 07/09/2020 - 10:30

                  @saltypete: i don't get it because my front wheels get so much brake dust and road grime on them.

                  The rears did too but Wagner pads (recommended by Brakes Direct) reduced this by 70%.

            • Embaloo on 03/09/2020 - 08:51

              @saltypete: Thanks, appreciate the advice.
              No shuddering yet, but have been in others' cars and experienced this.
              Ah, yes I believe the discs were machined at the same time. Okay too fast.

          • srr on 03/09/2020 - 18:48
            +2

            @Embaloo: had original brakes for 90K and 6years, driving in the start-stop and congested city traffic. Sold the car with them, probably had 50% left.

            • Embaloo on 03/09/2020 - 21:42

              @srr: You sound like a Toyota Sensei. One day I will learn your ways.

              • gromit on 04/09/2020 - 20:00

                @Embaloo: Do you perhaps ride the brakes a little? (i.e. have your foot resting a little on them even when moving) My wife is terribly harsh on brakes as she is an aggressive driver but even hers last about 30,000.

      • Dogsrule on 04/09/2020 - 08:53

        Even constant city driving with a heavy foot shouldn't cause this much wear, something is definitely wrong. Perhaps your brake caliper pins are seized, this causes only one pad to be pressed against the brake disc when braking, wearing it out twice as fast and not wearing the other one much at all.

        • Embaloo on 04/09/2020 - 12:30

          Thanks, is this easy for someone to look at in a few mins, or does everything need to be taken apart?

          • Dogsrule on 04/09/2020 - 12:33

            @Embaloo: Assuming the pads have been installed and used for some time, you only need to take the wheel off and see if one pad is significantly more worn than the other. Gotta get your head in under the wheelarch though, so take all necessary precautions regarding jacking up the car.

        • Worf on 04/09/2020 - 19:07
          +1

          I was thinking this… or brake pads were changed when they didn’t need to be changed.

      • Maxxiz on 04/09/2020 - 15:50

        Yes, bad.
        Do you happen to use left foot braking?

        • Embaloo on 04/09/2020 - 16:16

          Hehe no.

      • Randolph Duke on 04/09/2020 - 08:46
        +4

        What’s on earth is this nonsense. 80km/h in the appropriate gear is going to use less fuel then 100km/h in the appropriate gear.

        You can make your auto use the wrong gear too.

  • JimmyF on 02/09/2020 - 22:29
    +43

    How Do You Make Driving More Economical?

    Stage 4 lockdown has been amazing for the fuel bill. Haven't put fuel in the car in weeks!

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:30

      Ha yes! :)

    • funnysht on 02/09/2020 - 22:58
      +3

      Donald Trump "I see no correlation"

    • CMH on 02/09/2020 - 23:12
      +1

      Fuel goes bad after awhile. I think we're talking >6-12 months.

      You can store it longer if the tank is full.

      • psyren89 on 02/09/2020 - 23:21

        I remember hearing fuel has a shelf life of about 3 months, but that was in reference to fuel in the US.

      • brad1-8tsi on 03/09/2020 - 08:42

        I use my car so little these days (5000km/yr) that I rarely put more than 20l of 98ron in at a time because it goes off.

    • OzzyOzbourne on 03/09/2020 - 15:38

      What's fuel? 😂

    • lunartemis on 03/09/2020 - 20:30

      Agree, the last time I filled the car was 21 July and the car still has 3/4 of the tank left. Not to mention the servicing is due in 2 months and has only done 1500km since the last service…

    • Psomaggi on 05/09/2020 - 06:54

      What I'm gaining in petrol savings I'm losing in batteries, jumper leads and chargers - I'm not driving far or often enough to get any charge back into it!

    • Hamlet on 05/09/2020 - 21:34

      Yup, and the other day I couldn't even start the car because the battery died.

  • Moneyinthebank on 02/09/2020 - 22:34
    +9

    Buy woolworths e gift cards at 5% off and fill up at a woolies petrol station

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:35

      Ooo thanks. Is there anywhere that has a constant supply of them, or is it just keep an eye on ozb?

      • John Kimble on 02/09/2020 - 23:34
        +1

        Cashrewards or ShopBack ongoing

      • Moneyinthebank on 02/09/2020 - 23:49
        +1

        I use cashrewards

      • Whisper Quiet on 03/09/2020 - 07:48
        +4

        Be easy on the throttle when taking off from a stop and driving uphill. Uses the most petrol per litre in those actions. Take foot off accelerator when you can instead of braking and roll to a stop gently using the brake sparingly. Always use Petrolspy website when filling up, sometimes can save you up to 30-40 cents per litre.

        • Embaloo on 03/09/2020 - 09:23

          Thank you Montstalova.

    • kaleidoscope on 03/09/2020 - 15:35
      +3

      or costco… totally worth their membership cost if you drive and use lot of fuel

    • baskinghobo on 03/09/2020 - 21:01

      Do you have to show the checkout person the e-gift card so they can scan it and then tell them the code? I don't like fiddling around with payment when someone is waiting for me especially when there is a line.

      • Moneyinthebank on 03/09/2020 - 21:44

        No just say E gift card after you scan your rewards card

        So you get 4 cents off
        Plus extra 5 percent off

        • kaleidoscope on 03/09/2020 - 22:36

          u have to manually enter the card number and pin code. The barcode on gift card doesn't work atleast on the two woolies closest to me

  • [Deactivated] on 02/09/2020 - 22:37
    +11

    When you learn how to actually drive, and become 'one with the car'

    Works wonders in fuel consumption and general wear n tear

    slow down when turning - do sharp turns affect the longevity of a car or just passenger comfort?

    This is just scary, see an actual driving instructor 🤦‍♂️

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:41

      It's a legit question I have. I don't always take corners hard haha. Any downsides though?

      And okay, one with the car. Just from experience, or can one see a Toyota Sensei?

      • [Deactivated] on 02/09/2020 - 22:51
        -7

        Any downsides though?

        Many, youre under 18 right…🤦‍♂️

        • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:54

          Lol nah, many years driving, just have not stopped to think about these things before.

          • [Deactivated] on 02/09/2020 - 23:02
            -6

            @Embaloo: There is no shame in taking public transport

            • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 23:03

              @[Deactivated]: Yeah, used to. For me it was about $50-60/week + 3 hrs/day, still exxy.

      • srr on 03/09/2020 - 18:51
        +1

        Front tyre shoulders will probably wear out fast. Maybe sway bar links. If you accelerate fast in turns then CV joins might wear out faster.

    • Peck on 03/09/2020 - 11:30

      My car and I are fairly 'Zen' most of the time. And she sounds to relax more when I put her into neutral (Automatic) at lights etc. It probably makes no difference on fuel/wear, but it gives me something to do.
      As others have alluded to, aggressive driving habits are not good, and could lead to a fine or even worse.

      • echelon6 on 05/09/2020 - 13:28
        +1

        I used to do that but I think the wear on the AT is worse than the wear on the torque converter if left in drive, so I figure just leave it

    • toomuchdogfur on 03/09/2020 - 20:40

      You are a very judgemental person.

      • [Deactivated] on 03/09/2020 - 21:20
        -4

        Thanks friend 👍

      • Embaloo on 03/09/2020 - 22:59
        +1

        Nah, aardvark is okay, they were appropriately replying to my post before I included my 'edits' haha even my spouse judged my comments!!

  • The Value on 02/09/2020 - 22:37
    +48

    use the lower gears as a brake (just got told this after busting two sets of brake pads in a very short period) for an auto.

    No. Brakes are cheap. Gearboxes are not. Unless you mean going downhill.

    slow down for small speed bumps - do suspension issues outweigh petrol usage from braking/accelerating?

    LMAO. I can just imagine this bloke flying over a speed bump with grin on his face thinking about how much money he just saved from not slowing down.

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:40

      Yes I mean going downhill.
      And haha I don't know if I 'audibly' grin haha but the question does cross my mind… I don't think I'm a reckless driver, but am currently questioning the economy of my driving.

    • dcep on 02/09/2020 - 22:40
      +2

      the faster you go, the smoother the bump

      • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:58

        Ha sometimes.

    • [Deactivated] on 03/09/2020 - 15:01
      +6

      Is this serious?

      Gearboxes are designed to do engine braking. Unless you're slipping the clutch while doing it, there is no reason to not use engine braking as much as possible.

      Also, the engine shuts off fuel supply while engine braking whereas if you are idling or clutch-in while braking with the brake pedal you are still using fuel. It's a win win.

    • spaceflight on 03/09/2020 - 23:36
      +2

      Brakes are cheap. Gearboxes are not. Unless you mean going downhill.

      So are you saying that the gearbox is fine to make the car go faster but not slow down the same car?

      It's exactly the same thing but the wheels are transferring power, not the engine.

  • Mechz on 02/09/2020 - 22:48
    +6

    Use Petrolspy to find the best priced fuel in your area.

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:49

      Ah yep! I use fuelcheck occasionally, good tip.

  • Ryanek on 02/09/2020 - 22:49
    +5

    Buy petrol at Costco.

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:49
      -1

      Wow didn't know there was costco petrol. Guessing you have to be a member?

      • Ryanek on 02/09/2020 - 22:51
        +2

        Savings in petrol pay off the membership fee in no time.

        • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:54

          Ah okay. I'll check proximities to my routes.

          • Ryanek on 02/09/2020 - 22:58
            +5

            @Embaloo: Check out Petrol Spy for Casula. These are 98 octane prices in and around the area:

            Caltex - 159.9
            Woolies - 159.9
            Coles - 161.9
            7 Elven - 157.9
            Costco - 116.7

            On a fuel tank of 65 litres you're saving nearly $30 which is half the price of membership.

            • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:58

              @Ryanek: Thank you, wow yeah that's crazy. What was it like when everyone else was 98c a few months back?

            • Nexo on 03/09/2020 - 01:57
              +3

              @Ryanek: Oh wow I didn't even know that Costco did fuel. That's such a big saving I'm definitely signing up now as there's a Costco warehouse with petrol 5km from my place.

    • ModBot on 05/09/2020 - 20:45
      +1

      I think the 7 - 11 location trick is better than this. Lock fuel prices - sometimes cheaper than costco and you don't need membership!

  • BBear53 on 02/09/2020 - 22:59
    +11

    You don't engine brake with an auto. Brake pads are cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch. Maybe buy better quality brake pads and have it checked for binding callipers if your brakes are wearing out so fast.

    Keep tyre pressures at the right level. Low air in tyres creates more drag.

    Avoid hard acceleration.

    Taking turns hard won't make
    much difference and will wear out tyres faster.

    Maybe check your air filter between services. Engines run more rich to compensate as air filters become blocked.

    • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 23:00

      Ah okay, thank you. Even down long hills? E.g. lapstone hill.

      • funnysht on 02/09/2020 - 23:01
        +3

        yeah havent you seen schwanegger in commando? It worked for him and also got himself a gf.

        • Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 23:40

          Ha, nope. But quite curious about this point of using the gears - my family mechanic suggested it, so I'd like to know more.

          • Archi on 03/09/2020 - 09:34

            @Embaloo: its a combination of both gears and breaking, there are 2 different things happening… deceleration and braking, learn the difference and your driving will improve,

        • ItsMeAgro on 03/09/2020 - 14:39
          +1

          Lady: Are you gonna tell me whats going on or what?

          Arnie: No.

          https://youtu.be/0ZT2NcCIUDs?t=50

      • ihavok on 03/09/2020 - 01:10
        +2

        @Embaloo
        Braking will generate heat. The hotter your brakes get, the less effective they are at stopping the car. This effect when experienced is sometimes described casually as a "long brake pedal" - you find you have to brake a lot harder with your foot action to achieve a smaller braking effect than you would expect to get.

        Engine-braking can be used here to minimise the amount of downhill braking that you do. As you drive, the air helps to cool the brakes. So engine-braking in this scenario is more for a safety (in the event you need to perform a sudden brake downhill, your brakes aren't too hot to do their job).

        • pegaxs on 03/09/2020 - 08:24
          +3

          "long brake pedal"??? I have been involved in repairing and restoring cars, bikes and truck, listening to customers describe issues with brakes and been involved in motorsports for a large part of my life and have never heard of "brake fade" described as "long brake pedal".

          Longer travel, spongy or sinking brake pedal is usually something else all together. It either involves air in the system, water in the system, worn/leaking seals or stuck caliper/s. What you described above "brakes get hot, stop working" is casually known as "brake fade"

          • ihavok on 03/09/2020 - 12:19
            +2

            @pegaxs: Thank you sharing your resume after we all asked for it.

            Yes, 'brake fade' is the more common term for this. Where I have heard the term "long brake pedal" used casually is when it is used to describe to someone what 'brake fade' is.

            The advice to takeaway is the same - do not overuse your brakes unnecessarily in longer downhill drives.

            • pegaxs on 03/09/2020 - 13:35
              +1

              @ihavok:

              Thank you sharing your resume

              You're welcome.

              "Brake Fade" is what it is called (casually or otherwise). Even the most uneducated drivers that come in to have their brakes looked at refer to it as "brake fade". I cant even Google "long brake pedal" as it doesn't exist in the context you are using it in.

              (real) Brake fade (what you are referring to) is when the brake discs and pads heat up and lose their ability to function correctly. It feels like a normal pedal that you press and nothing happens no matter how hard (not "how far") you press.

              (misattributed) Brake fade (what most people complain of) is when there is water or air in the brake system, usually require them to push further (ie: "longer") than normal to take up compressible space in the lines. (Leaks and sticking calipers can also cause this "longer travel") They equate "longer" to meaning "harder" and that's just not how hydraulics work.

              I have heard the term "long brake pedal" used casually

              Not buying it. (real) "brake fade" it's not casually or otherwise referred to as "long brake pedal". What you are describing by "long" travel is not brake fade due to discs and pads heating up and failing. Long pedal travel is due to a contamination or failure of part of the braking system. So your "long brake pedal" (even if it were a real thing) is erroneous at best and is describing something that isn't related to what you are talking about.

              do not overuse your brakes unnecessarily in longer downhill drives.

              While I do get the sentiment here, "brake fade" is basically irrelevant to 95% of driving that normal people do, especially what type of driving OP is referencing. Unless the car is 50+ years old and still has drum brakes on the front, or is towing well above its rated capacity or on or being driven like it's on a race track, (real) brake fade in day to day driving isn't an issue. This also goes for down hill. It would have to be a very very long, winding and steep road for an average modern car to suffer "brake fade". (Trucks are an exception to this, but your average commuter doesn't drive a 12 tonne Kenworth to work…)

    • DashCam AKA Rolts on 02/09/2020 - 23:13
      +1

      Keep tyre pressures at the right level.

      This! Saves fuel, saves excessive tyre wear (=$$).

    • JIMB0 on 03/09/2020 - 05:57
      +1

      have it checked for binding callipers if your brakes are wearing out so fast.

      Could be the cause of his high fuel consumption.

    • brad1-8tsi on 03/09/2020 - 08:46
      +6

      You don't engine brake with an auto.

      since when and says who? I can't think of an auto where there isn't an option to engine brake.

      If more people learnt to use the gears in their autos you wouldn't have people driving down Mount Ouzley with the brake lights on from top to bottom and smoking brakes as a result.

      • Euphemistic on 03/09/2020 - 08:51

        Correct auto can engine brake, it’s just not as effective as a manual.

      • Embaloo on 03/09/2020 - 09:38

        When should you not engine brake in an auto?

        • brad1-8tsi on 03/09/2020 - 09:59
          +2

          I don't know. I do it quite a bit in both autos and manuals. I think like anything you don't go whacking it down a gear and have the engine bouncing off the rev limiter.

          If you want good fuel economy and long engine life you need to look a long way up the road, read what the traffic is doing, plan your route, try and anticipate what the traffic will do.

          The clutch on my car is supposed to be quite weak but here we are with a remapped ECU, 320nm of torque and 195,000km on the original clutch. Go figure.

      • spaceflight on 03/09/2020 - 23:40

        If more people learnt to use the gears in their autos you wouldn't have people driving down Mount Ouzley with the brake lights on from top to bottom and smoking brakes as a result.

        My automatic DSG gearbox with adaptive cruise control will downshift to engine brake and maintain a set speed. It will also turn the brake lights on.
        It doesn't always mean that the driver is riding on the brakes.

        • abb on 04/09/2020 - 10:24

          I have driven up and down Mt Ousley more times than I can count. I reckon cars with computer controlled downshift brake lights are a small minority, unless I somehow missed that feature as standard on old Camrys ;)

          Even some truck drivers don't know how to down shift (the vast majority do)…

          https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-11-05/truck-crashes-through…

        • brad1-8tsi on 04/09/2020 - 12:00

          It doesn't always mean that the driver is riding on the brakes.

          Indeed it doesn't but I think 95% of the cars trundling down MT Ousley don't have that. Like abb I've done that route a few hundred times.

          I'm assuming you have a VW group car. Just remember that VW will charge $500-$600 per end for brakes and its pads and rotors every time.

          Adaptive cruise is convenient but expensive in terms of brakes and fuel use.

    • srr on 03/09/2020 - 18:54

      You don't engine brake with an auto

      Unless your car designed to do it. For example Toyota Fortuner / Hilux is pretty amazing at engine breaking.

      • pegaxs on 03/09/2020 - 21:04
        +1

        pretty amazing at engine breaking.

        Not sure if spelling error or clever pun…

        • srr on 03/09/2020 - 21:57
          +1

          just ESL issues, but turned out hilarious I agree

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