How Do You Make Driving More Economical?

Embaloo on 02/09/2020 - 22:17
Last edited 07/09/2020 - 20:03

I have been given some tips, but would like to save more.

Please bust my myths/help.

Atm I have:

  • own an okay km/L car, with spare parts easily available.
  • Buy decent second hand, old-ish but very low km.
  • use 91 petrol
  • use the lower gears as a brake (just got told this after busting two sets of brake pads in a very short period) for an auto.
  • don't drive grumpy.
  • live closer to the areas I drive to the most
  • obviously learn how to service a car myself or marry a mechanic into the family, but those are not easy atm ha.
  • let the rain wash it

Questions:

  • slow down when turning - do fast turns affect the longevity of a car or just passenger comfort? (Edit - this is a hypothetical, I realise. the hazard of car flipping is costly)
  • slow down for small speed bumps - do suspension issues outweigh petrol usage from braking/accelerating? (Edit - I do respect the spirit of the law, speed bumps are there for a reason, kids, noise, etc, so also a hypothetical).

  • are there "economic" speeds to drive in 110 zones?

  • take toll roads or don't? (NSW)

Thoughts much appreciated, saving money but also wanting to be safe.

Updates so far from you guys, for your own inspiration:
- keep the car tidy - extra weight = more fuel usage
- keep tyres aligned and pumped up
- smooth driving is good, use pedals less where safe
- scout around for cheap petty using apps/costco
- plan trips well
- investigate diy servicing
- modify the car to make it more aerodynamic to reduce drag
- not idling the engine too much, turning it off instead
- I'll keep summarising

Automotive

Comments

    • Embaloo on 04/09/2020 - 23:36

      Thanks. Shiny Mew's comment speaks to this too - slow acceleration but not too slow for the engine.

  • itbargainhunter on 04/09/2020 - 17:39
    -3

    own an okay km/L car, with spare parts easily available.
    —> Buy major brand / model that has high circulation in the market, as 3rd party genuine parts will be more available.

    Buy decent second hand, old-ish but very low km.
    -> not necessary, buying 2nd hand car is always a pot luck.

    use 91 petrol
    —> main thing is don't use E10 and try to refill up full tank cheap. Try to keep you tank above 50%, the more space it has in the gas tank, the better the gasline inside mixed with oxgen. It will then burn better and in the engine resulting the 2nd half tank always used up slighter quicker than the first half tank.

    use the lower gears as a brake (just got told this after busting two sets of brake pads in a very short period) for an auto.
    —> Hell NO. (Who teach you this? Does he/she hates u this much?) You will kill the AUTO gear box faster and it is more expensive to repair than replacing break pad / tires.
    —> This skill is call engine brake and are only uses in manual car
    —> Never use low gear in auto except in extreme conditions (like u know u need grip in snow / driving a small engine car in extremely steep slope and you want to keep speed / towing)
    —> Brakes and Tires are the cheapest parts that provides basic protection to you. Take good care of your tires especially. When it is time to change, change them (usually every 3-5yrs) . Remember this and it may save your live one day without u even realising.

    • Euphemistic on 04/09/2020 - 21:20

      use 91 petrol
      —> main thing is don't use E10 and try to refill up full tank cheap. Try to keep you tank above 50%, the more space it has in the gas tank, the better the gasline inside mixed with oxgen. It will then burn better and in the engine resulting the 2nd half tank always used up slighter quicker than the first half tank.

      Have you actually measured the economy of e10? It is cheaper and it may still work out cheaper despite possibly using a little more. In my measured usage I found negligible difference between e10, 91 and 95 over a few years. E10 worked out cheapest.

      Try to keep you tank above 50%

      While I agree that regularly running the tank very low isn’t ideal and the pump can pickup debris etc, that’s not at 50%, more like 10-15%.

      Oxygen in the tank affecting fuel burn? Pull the other one.

    • Embaloo on 04/09/2020 - 23:40

      Thanks yes 2nd hand is certainly pot luck. I've thankfully avoided some lemons.

      Hmm engine braking in an auto - it was a family mechanic who has done good for our family before, I really don't think I've got this one sorted fully in my mind yet.

      Yes I can actually remember a time when because the tyres were new, my life was spared. I am so thankful for this (had not driven in a long long time and took one stupid, stupid risk. Thankfully I was spared - tyres were less than a month old, and ai learned my lesson quicksmart).

    • pegaxs on 10/09/2020 - 10:19
      +1

      Try to keep you tank above 50%, the more space it has in the gas tank, the better the gasline inside mixed with oxgen.

      Of all the bullshit relating to cars I read on this forum, this has to be my new favourite…

      If anything, it would be better to leave the fuel tank almost empty, because you can save around 50kg of weight by not having the fuel in there. And for the record, the "oxgen" is mixed with the "gasline" in the inlet manifold or the combustion chamber, not in the fuel tank. Added to that, for pollution, safety and ADR laws, fuel tanks are a sealed unit once the "gasline" cap goes back on, so there isnt much "oxgen" in there anyway…

      As for E10, don't get me started. E10 is only about 2~5% less efficient than standard fuel, so the difference in only slightly negligible and there is no real cost saving over 91. E10 is closer to being 95, and that is where it can make a cost saving. It needs to be about 5~10% cheaper than the fuel you currently use to make it economically viable.

      use the lower gears as a brake… for an auto.

      Hell yes, use lower gears in an auto. That is the exact reason you can select lower gears in an auto, the same reason you can select them in a manual gearbox.

      This skill is call engine brake and are only uses in manual car
      Never use low gear in auto except in extreme conditions

      Wrong. But thanks for playing.

      Brakes and Tires are the cheapest parts

      While not wrong, I would suggest that a car is a series of systems built on top of each other and it is important to keep the whole ecosystem maintained, not just tyres and brakes. Other things can be just as important but are often overlooked, such as wiper blades that most people don't know they need until it starts raining, or doing regular checks on small things like your lights front and rear.

  • kokita on 04/09/2020 - 18:09
    1. I use RON98 fuel and I believe it is more economical. I have an engine with turbo.
    2. Buy a car with a sunroof. Most of the time I don't need to turn on AC and less noise/drag compare to opening windows.
    3. Learn to find the best economical route for your daily trip with less steep hills, traffic and red lights.
    4. Manually use Start/Stop function only during long red light stops.
    5. Find the right tyres that can give good kms.
    6. Drive during off-peak hours if possible.
    • Euphemistic on 04/09/2020 - 21:21
      +1

      I use RON98 fuel and I believe it is more economical. I have an engine with turbo.

      Does your car require it? Have you measured the economy or is it gut feel? If it isn’t tuned especially for 98 and you are using it anyway you are throwing money away.

      • kokita on 06/09/2020 - 23:34

        It's gut feel unfortunately. Haven't really made a real comparison.

    • deek on 05/09/2020 - 14:48
      +1
      1. RON98 is more efficient at converting chemical to mechanical energy if your engine is capable of generating a compression ratio greater than 10:1. My turbo engine has a 9.8:1 compression ratio, hence RON98 is useless for me. The engine is designed specifically for RON95.
      2. An open sunroof will have approx. the same drag as an open window. As soon as you open two windows, yep, I'll agree.
      3. Steep hills will only lower your efficiency if it forces you to use your brake to slow down. Less traffic and red lights also means less braking, so agreed here.
      4. Sounds fair enough
      5. More important to make sure tyres are inflated correctly. Many people under-inflate their tyres, or don't check the the tyre pressure. Under-inflated tyres will increase rolling resistance and wear out tyres more quickly.
      6. Off-peak hours means less braking, so yes, should be more economical.
      • kokita on 06/09/2020 - 23:36
        1. Thanks for this! I just checked my engine compression is 10:1. So, it sounds like I need RON98.
        2. I supposed to say Tilted sunroof which supposed to be less drag. I agree opening sunroof wide will add heaps drag.
          3 - 6. Cheers for being on the same page. :)
        • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 05:32

          Thanks for this! I just checked my engine compression is 10:1. So, it sounds like I need RON98.

          But does your manufacturer say you need to run 98? Even with higher compression it might not be required. If it’s not required, you are wasting $.

          ‘Gut feel’ doesn’t mean anything. It is highly likely that your gut makes your car feel more economical/powerful because your gut has also told you ‘more expensive must be better’

          • kokita on 07/09/2020 - 10:06

            @Euphemistic: The manufacturer recommends at least 95. Thanks for the insight I will consider 95 from now on.

        • deek on 10/09/2020 - 02:43

          Looks like you're on the right track now, but I'll clarify my point above.

          If your engine compression ratio = 10:1, your engine is most definitely designed for RON95. Don't bother using RON98; it's over-spec'd for your engine. Your engine will compress the fuel/air mix exactly the same using 95 or 98, and you'll get exactly the same mechanical energy output when using 95 or 98. Absolutely no difference, other than the price you pay for the fuel.

          if your engine compression ratio > 10:1 (i.e 11:1, 12:1, or even 13:1), then you will benefit from using RON98. The higher the compression ratio, the more benefit you will get. At these compression levels, RON95 will often fail/prematurely detonate, which I'm sure you can imagine, is not particularly good for the engine. Hence why, in this case, you need to use RON98.

    • field1985 on 05/09/2020 - 22:21

      "Manually use Start/Stop function only during long red light stops."

      Unless you have a modern car designed to turn off at the lights, this will wear out your starter motor much quicker because its design is not harden to deal with repeat warm starts. My dad used to believe this and would turn off manually. But any savings were lost when he had to replace starter motors. Tried to tell him. Now he thinks he was right all along because modern cars do it automatically, he doesn't understand they have specialised starter motors designed to handle the load without affecting lifespan. That said I hate those cars, their complete lack of responsiveness means when the light turns green it takes the driver/car well over 2-3 seconds to respond, start and get moving, causing 2-3 cars in the line of traffic behind to miss the green light.

      God I can't wait until we get electric cars. So many fewer moving parts, oils, etc, etc that inevitably break, leak and cost a fortune. Apparently the only thing you really need to check in an EV is the wiper fluid.. because even the brakes don't wear out due to regenerative braking which captures energy using the electric motor instead of wasting it as heat in the brakes.

      • deek on 05/09/2020 - 23:41

        Totally agree about stop-start needing a purposely designed starter system, and older cars without that function should not do this regularly.

        That being said, the parent post did say "Start/Stop function", which implies a car that does have this design. They were recommending to trigger the function manually, as having the engine auto-stop, and then auto-start a few seconds later, will use more fuel than just leaving the engine running.

        Also, with stop-start in my car, I can be off in a second. Starts up super fast, and is ready to go almost right away. Adds no delay for me, as I have a manual car, and putting it back into gear takes more time than the engine starting up again.

        Electric cars. Yep, much simpler, mechanically speaking. Though they will still have suspension (with the all important CV joints), wheel bearings, power steering, braking, etc, which will mean eventual wear/replacement/fluid topup. Brake pads may not wear as much, due to regenerative braking, but they will still wear. The battery system is obviously much more complex, and could be the weak link for EVs. On the whole, definite maintenance improvement over an ICE car.

  • astroe on 04/09/2020 - 18:54
    -2

    Stay under 2,000 rpm.

  • Spaniard on 04/09/2020 - 18:59

    Maybe one day, there will be no cars so public transport and walking/cycling (exercise boost) would be the main way of getting around.

    We wouldn’t even need to think about how to make driving more economical.

  • matt3 on 04/09/2020 - 20:07

    "Dad, can I borrow the car?"

    "Nope"

  • Jeffie on 04/09/2020 - 20:19

    This many comments in and no one has mentioned GOFAR?

    GOFAR is a mileage tracker that combines an OBD2 scanner with a logbook app to help you save fuel, log business expenses and understand car warning lights.

  • djmm on 04/09/2020 - 20:27

    When your car is wrapped around a tree you'll become one with the car

  • Dreamcast on 04/09/2020 - 23:15

    Bloody hell, I can't want to take my wrx sti for a thrashing tomorrow morning.

    Thanks for the motivation!!

    • Embaloo on 04/09/2020 - 23:41
      +1

      Hahahaha!! Oh dear.

  • HASS on 05/09/2020 - 05:56

    I did 80k on factory set and still had 40% pads left. Still got them changed. If your car's braking system is ok then only be gentle on acceleration and anticipate your stopping distance, dont apply harsh brakes.

  • bobolo on 05/09/2020 - 10:25

    Just buy an economical car to your budget and drive sensibly. Honestly the effort you go into saving a bit of fuel/longevity is not proportional to the minute savings, even if all added up together over a number of years.

    When you set your mind to driving purely to be marginally more economical, you also put yourself and others at risk.

    For example there have been so many instances where drivers slow down unnecessarily slowly to turn off a main road which can cause a rear end accident. Other times there are those who make a turn through oncoming traffic and even though the gap is large enough, they don't accelerate as much as they should causing oncoming cars to brake suddenly.

  • Hangryuman on 05/09/2020 - 10:54
    +1

    ah so grasshopper -

    the cheapest way to make driving more economical …

    is to be more economical with your driving …

    in other words - drive less - the big shift when COVID stay-at-home started was quiet empty streets, less noise and pollution, no nightmare traffic jams, fresh air and blue skies !

    reminds me like computers - maybe 20 years ago when they were improving rapidly every few months

    someone asked the best way to save money buying a computer -

    answer - never buy one !

    becoz - Moore's Law - every 2 years or so, power/speed would double for the same price - or the same power/speed would halve in price - so keep waiting …

    the only reason to buy a computer was if you felt value from using one - for your work, social, etc. - and you saw a financial profit opportunity from the capital expense of the tool

    I live inner city - walk to the city - and drive maybe once a fortnight - max 1 hour return - I've calculated the time value of my driving - I should spend no more than $700 per year

    If I lived it outer urbia - and drove to everything - to work, to buy milk, to restaurants, sport, hobbies, entertainment - and spent 3 hours a day in a car - say 40 hours a fortnight - then I'd see value in spending $700x40=$28000 per year on driving - a nice shiny new Maztoydai

    but I don't, so I won't. You do the math.

  • cwongtech on 05/09/2020 - 10:55
    +1

    1) 7/11 fuel lock
    Costco prices at the convenience of being able to fill up at large network of fuel stations (and without the wait time at Costco)

    2) Woolies eGift @6% off + 4c voucher, easy 10cpl minimum

  • JIMB0 on 05/09/2020 - 12:21
    +2

    Plan your journeys so that you only ever have to drive downhill.

    • Embaloo on 05/09/2020 - 17:53

      Hehe or just take southern routes. Thank you Jimbo.

  • centrelink on 05/09/2020 - 13:05

    Don't use breaks on downhills. Seems like a waste of free energy when I see people do it when they don't need to.

    • Embaloo on 05/09/2020 - 17:52

      Haha thank you. I have too many reduced speeds around me (e.g. 70 going to 60 on a decline with speed cameras about too), to avoid doing this, It seems like bad planning, but I am sure there were reasons as some stage/still are.

  • Leeroy Jenkins on 05/09/2020 - 15:10
    +1

    Don't just use 91 fuel, use whatever your car's manufacturer recommends.

    When using lower gears on declines, beware the cars behind you may not be paying attention and it may result in accidents. I've had cars gotten really close to me a couple of times.

    Still about braking, I've seen people with very bad braking habits on the road. Some basically step on their brakes every other second. They brake for no reason even when they are going under the speed limit. They keep brakes pressed when turning and there's no pedestrians and obstructions around. A lot of the braking I see people do on the road is unnecessary. With a bit of attention and planning, these people can probably double or triple the life of their pads.

    Lastly, not implying OP's like this, but just pay attention on the road. Safety first, then fuel economy, but one usually leads to the other. I can't stop raging every time I'm in a roundabout, a car on my left slows down approaching the roundabout, and proceeds to cut right in front of me which often results me in doing full braking (ABS triggered) to stop crashing into them. People driving like that will inevitably use more fuel because in generally they'll do more unnecessary braking and acceleration. They can save fuel by just paying attention.

    • Embaloo on 05/09/2020 - 17:50

      I agree!! And thx!

      • Leeroy Jenkins on 05/09/2020 - 19:10

        Also I'd worry how you can go through two sets of pads in a short period of time.

        The first set of OEM pads (front) on my auto car weren't replaced till we had 65,000km on the odo, and the rear set was replaced at around 80,000km. I regularly inspect the thickness of my pads and the rear ones still have more than 2/3 thickness left after 30,000km+.

        Other than your driving habit, I'd worry what pads your mechanic put on your car. Were they already used? It just doesn't make any sense unless it's heavy track driving and frequent overheating. Even the cheapo Bendix Pads I've use aren't that bad.

        • Jugganautx on 05/09/2020 - 20:00

          I've only done 45k and i still have 90% on my factory brake pads lol

  • inasero on 05/09/2020 - 16:57
    +2

    The biggest cost of cars is in depreciation, so first thing is to get a car that doesn't drop in value like a rock. Usually this will mean a reliable second hand Japanese/Korean car which has already done lots of miles.

    I see lots of people upgrading their cars every couple of years, but my Corolla has served me well over the last 11 years and has never had major issues, and is cheap as chips to service.

  • imnotgoingtopayrrp on 05/09/2020 - 18:13
    +1

    Try using the thinnest oil specified in the vehicle manual. Don't venture further than whats stated in the manual. My SUV and sedan recommend a range from 0W-30 to 5W40.

  • suchan on 05/09/2020 - 22:00
    -4

    Personally for me (some of these may have already been mentioned up there):
    - Always go for U95 or U98 (even if your car can handle E10) as the little savings you gained by putting shitty oil into your engine will be offset by the dropped performance of your engine and thus end up consuming more in the process. Furthermore, in the long run it's not good for your engine life <— at least this is what my mechanic told me.
    - i rarely accelerate my rpm beyond the 2k - 3k (at all times). This is especially true when you're moving from a stationary position. The more you run your rpm, the less efficient your engine is. You can do this with automatic transmission too. So from a stationary position, accelerate until you're around 2.5k, then lift up your right foot and notice how the red needle suddenly drops. This means your car has changed one gear up. Repeat until you reach the speed you need … 60 - 70 kph.
    - Try to drive at a speed that's mostly constant. This way, you are not wasting your gas having to accelerate or brake too frequently.

    Not a lot of people know about this, or bothered to use (as most people seemed eager to just fly right out from a red light).

    • spaceflight on 06/09/2020 - 21:19
      +1

      Always go for U95 or U98 (even if your car can handle E10)

      That's wrong as you are wasting money by putting in a more expensive fuel if the car only needs 91

      as the little savings you gained by putting shitty oil into your engine will be offset by the dropped performance of your engine and thus end up consuming more in the process.

      Oil doesn't come in 95 and 98 so do you know what you mean?

      Furthermore, in the long run it's not good for your engine life <— at least this is what my mechanic told me.

      It won't hurt it as cars have anti knocking technology in them to protect them if a lower RON fuel is used than the engine is designed for.

      The more you run your rpm, the less efficient your engine is.

      No it isn't. It will be less efficient over a point but that point is not anything greater than idling.

      You can do this with automatic transmission too. So from a stationary position, accelerate until you're around 2.5k, then lift up your right foot and notice how the red needle suddenly drops. This means your car has changed one gear up.

      That's how all automatics work. The harder you accelerate the longer they will hold the lower gear to get you to your desired speed faster.

      • suchan on 09/09/2020 - 20:41
        -2

        It won't hurt it as cars have anti knocking technology in them to protect them if a lower RON fuel is used than the engine is designed for.

        I hope OP won't listen to you. Not sure where you get your information from but it's misleading and can hurt cars.

        Read this: [https://www.cars.com/articles/if-premium-gas-is-recommended-for-my-car-will-using-regular-void-the-warranty-ruin-the-engine-1420684149253/]

        • Regular can be used at least occasionally without repercussions in most vehicles designed for premium, but it’s a bad idea to make a habit of it. Bottom line: Check the owner’s manual. If the vehicle manufacturer says the engine requires premium, believe it. Don’t try to save a few cents per gallon by buying regular gasoline. Doing so could lead to much larger expenses in the future.*

        No it isn't. It will be less efficient over a point but that point is not anything greater than idling.

        Read this: [https://money.howstuffworks.com/personal-finance/budgeting/how-to-drive-economically7.htm]

        That's how all automatics work. The harder you accelerate the longer they will hold the lower gear to get you to your desired speed faster.

        Unfortunately, most people don't know that and they end up running their rpm higher and in turn burn more fuel.

        • spaceflight on 09/09/2020 - 22:23

          I hope OP won't listen to you. Not sure where you get your information from but it's misleading and can hurt cars.

          I'm not sure where you get your information from but it too is misleading

          Read this
          https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/to-save-money-on-gas-st…

          In today's automobiles, advances in engine technology mean that even if the owner's manual recommends premium gasoline, the car will typically run on regular without issue and won't damage the engine in any way. The car's performance might suffer only slightly: It might be a half-second slower from 0 to 60 mph, for instance. But the average driver isn't likely to notice this drop-off.

          In the old days, engines could not deal with fuels of varying octane ratings. Using the wrong fuel would make the engine knock and possibly damage internal engine components. But today, engine control systems can compensate for low octane by adjusting ignition timing to avoid knocking. This sophisticated electronic capability effectively tunes engines on the fly and gives drivers more flexibility in the grade of fuel that they can use safely.

          • suchan on 18/03/2021 - 09:50

            @spaceflight: did you read the article you posted thoroughly (and completely)?

            The key word in your quote (in which you conveniently leave out the first sentence from the paragraph) was recommends.

            For your convenience (and other neggers) I've shared it here

            The key for drivers is to know whether premium gas is merely recommended for their car or if it's required.

            And also

            It's a different story for a car whose engine requires premium fuel. The car will run on regular fuel in a pinch, but you shouldn't make a habit of it. The fuel's lower octane can result in elevated exhaust-gas temperatures and possible knocking, both of which can adversely affect the engine's health in the long run. Running regular-grade fuel in a car that requires premium might sound like an easy way to shave a car's operating costs, but the short-term savings won't come close to offsetting the cost of repairs to a damaged engine.

            Having said that: I'm still standing by the using the premium fuel (recommended / required). Good luck explaining it to your manufacturer when you try to claim warranty for engine issues because you're trying to save a few dollars.

  • atish digitalcinema on 05/09/2020 - 23:34
    +3

    I don't use indicators while turning… Saves lamp life

    • Embaloo on 06/09/2020 - 17:57

      Lol oh dear :(

    • spaceflight on 06/09/2020 - 21:30
      +1

      And blinker fluid

  • mrgeckoz on 06/09/2020 - 02:04
    +1

    start gently on the throttle, try to keep low revs, get a car with smaller engine (i.e. 1.2-1.5) with at least a 6sp gearbox.
    make sure your tyres are in good condition, service done properly and on-time.
    i'm achiving 5L/km on freeways and 6.5L/km on urban roads with my mk7 golf 1.4t 7dsg (but it requires RON95/98)

  • KLoNe on 06/09/2020 - 05:11

    Um, why? Get a V8 and enjoy life.

  • SillySorjai on 06/09/2020 - 08:43
    +1

    When driving on highways / freeways wind up your windows

    I'm sorry but I don't have this fact checked but a long time ago, I watched an episode on Top Gear where they said rolling up your windows reduces drag and the fuel efficiency was roughly an additional 5%

    Sometimes I do this and then turn on the fan just in case you still need some circulation

    In principle it sounds plausible but to measure it properly (not like the Top Gear experiments) requires proper wind dynamic models and 5% is like margin of error anyway

  • cybapete on 06/09/2020 - 09:46

    i have wondered sometimes if driving with the cruise control on all the time would make any difference to fuel economy

    • cwongtech on 06/09/2020 - 13:43
      +1

      i have wondered sometimes if driving with the cruise control on all the time would make any difference to fuel economy

      Depends how aggressive your cruise control is, the more aggressive it tries to keep within your speed, the more fuel it'll burn trying to reach your set/target cruise control speed, and also it'll brake for you to keep at your speed.

      I use cruise control religiously to keep 2km/h under the speed limit.

      would make any difference to fuel economy

      No, but staying under the speed limit and avoiding potential speeding fines (and increased insurance premiums) with cruise control is a bargain IMO.

  • fantafox on 06/09/2020 - 17:32
    +2

    Lose weight

  • mousie on 06/09/2020 - 17:50

    Driven about 2mill ks so not as much as many professional drivers, what I've noticed is certainly read driver behaviour and plan the route, Sydney has super aggressive drivers. Tolls are very expensive, and roads like Victoria road, are better options than just hemohragiging on cw link.
    Deoends on the size of the commute and driving conditions on it.

    A mid size car may have a higher fuel consumption rating and more expensive everything else, but have longer intervals, but have a higher depreciation curve and you get great value out purchasing of a 2 or 3, year old one and relatively trouble free motoring. Don't service at dealer's unless for a factory recall only. Grays and Pickles are good options and sometimes have ex gov vehicles. E10 hasn't been an economical fuel for me, typically 91 or 95 if savings are marginal within 3 or 4 cents. I was getting 4.8l per 100 in my Kia optima running 95, and my wife's qashqai was about 6. Avoid the crazy school mum runs, stop start runs are terrible. Boring cars are cheap, small cars wear quicker and beyond 7 years uneconomical for high ks. Use air con sparingly and air the car out when in quiet suburbs with no pollution.
    Considring EVs for the next one. Happy and safe motoring.

    • Embaloo on 06/09/2020 - 19:58

      Thanks for this.

  • jno on 06/09/2020 - 19:13

    Man if I have to think about all that while driving, I'd rather not drive.

  • Nanokillaz on 06/09/2020 - 20:49
    +2

    Doesn't seem to have been mentioned, but ChrisFix on Youtube is great for learning the basics of mechanic DIY (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCes1EvRjcKU4sY_UEavndBw)

    If you have a subie, then MrSubaru1387 on YouTube is also great.

  • brendanm on 06/09/2020 - 22:20

    Far out, get in the car, drive it, get out. Is saving $3 over a year worth the stress.

    • Embaloo on 07/09/2020 - 16:28

      No stress here :) just thoughtfulness.

      • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 16:58

        Doesn't sound like thoughtfulness. The car is a tool, use it. If it's too expensive, sell it.

        • deek on 07/09/2020 - 17:35
          +1

          If you can discover methods to use things more efficiently, that's thoughtfulness.

          • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 17:52

            @deek: A large number of ops points have nothing to do with efficiency.

            • Embaloo on 07/09/2020 - 20:01

              @brendanm: Efficiency with the money I've been given, or my time, or activities, is something I think I'm thoughtful about. As well as generosity, which can be enabled by efficiency elsewhere. I appreciate the input I've received here, even though (don't worry!!) I certainly don't feel like I need to take it all on.

              The argument can be made to save or not to save with every aspect of spending. But if it's not done at all, or way too much, then yes, there's issues. Thank you for your "balanced perspective" concern, if that's what it is. Or annoyance at paranoia, which you can be rest assured it is not ;)

              On a specific note, as unemployment has hit my family, I'm a little more conscious of travel and driving as it's just one area of spending, as well as I'm curious as to if there's any obvious things I'm doing badly out of sheer lack of automotive education or inspiration, where small changes can have a big impact.

              (Rather than big changes that have a small impact)

              • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 20:16

                @Embaloo: Correct, I was suggesting a balanced approach, as you say, too much focus on the saving money saps any enjoyment out of anything. Sorry to hear about the unemployment, hopefully things are on the up and up for you 👍

  • Ruprect on 07/09/2020 - 11:30
    +1

    I'm in the "just leave in the garage" camp. I would like to say, use public transport but that is not always a saving. I live in regional Vic and sometimes drive into Melb. The fun part is, its costs more to use public transport (V-Line) than it does drive. Locally I bought a bike and just use that… though it kills my legs :)

    Another way I saved myself a few dollars was to take out extended warranty when I purchased it. It was hella expensive but as it turned out worth the money. It had a number of oil leaks that required multiple visits and it was all covered by the extended warranty.

  • BewareOfThe Dog on 09/09/2020 - 15:50

    are there "economic" speeds to drive in 110 zones?

    Yes, 110 on most vehicles.

    • Euphemistic on 09/09/2020 - 20:57
      -1

      You’ll probably find it uses less fuel to travel a bit under 110. Obviously depends on the vehicle, but aerodynamic drag really starts to kick in at 100.

      Case in point, costs me an extra 1L/100km to travel at 100 vs 90 when towing a caravan according to the fuel consumption readout.

  • BewareOfThe Dog on 09/09/2020 - 15:55

    - investigate diy servicing
    A lot cheaper, and you have control over what oil goes in. One mechanic told me that quite a few mechanics, don't change the Air filter, and just shake/vaccuum the dust/debris out.
    This drain pan/container makes the job so much cleaner and easier, but always have degreaser on hand.

    • Euphemistic on 09/09/2020 - 20:59
      -1

      One mechanic told me that quite a few mechanics, don't change the Air filter, and just shake/vaccuum the dust/debris out.

      An experienced mechanic should be able to determine if the filter really needs replacing. As long as they aren’t charging for a new one when the only clean it.

  • skid on 10/09/2020 - 16:51

    Although not something that you can practically control, I find that the car gets greater fuel economy when the outside air temperature is higher. The economy goes up in day time vs night and Summer vs Winter. I believe this is due to the greater air density at low temperature. In theory, the car gets greater power at lower temperature but I haven't honestly noticed this myself.

    • Euphemistic on 10/09/2020 - 19:18

      Having trouble computing. Better economy at higher temps, but you are supposed to get better power at lower temps?

  • ForeverInBlueJeans on 16/09/2020 - 14:16
    +1

    Keep an eye on https://www.fuelcheck.nsw.gov.au/App/ (for NSW) and when my local woolies is competitive with the budget ones I buy fuel with 5% off eGift card

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