Just checked the Repco website. This popular deal is back. Price dropped from $31.99 down to $15.
Meguiar's Ultimate Wash N Wax 1.42L $15 @ Repco
1020
Simoneee on 04/11/2019 - 08:40 repco.com.au (1717 clicks)
Last edited 04/11/2019 - 10:47 by 1 other user
Last edited 04/11/2019 - 10:47 by 1 other user
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I've tried it and it's not as good as nxt or gold class for foaming. This is better for hand wash.
Yes, works quite well
Would recommend Mint snow foam (from Car Care products) for foaming with gun.
It does a good job but smell really bad.
What do you mean? I think it smells so good you could eat it!
Smell like vomit to me.
Meguiar's gold class smells good.
mix of bubble gum and pineapple esters
Yeah, smells great to me.
what do you mean? It's my smoothie
I think it smells amazing.
A bubblegum like smell definitely.
Get your nose checked. It smells awesome
Smells the best of any car cleaning liquids I’ve tried. Meguires tyre shine gel also smells great, like grape bubblegum.
damn beat me to it. To answer #Owgasm's question if you have high enough pressure it's OK, but probably not as good as Gold Class or other dedicated foam wash.
can people recommend a good (cheap) windscreen cleaner?
Cheap and good - Windex (not safe for tint)
Not so cheap but better - NV Clarity
Alternative window clean - waterless/rinseless products like Optimum No Rinse and CarPro ECH2o
Trico. Have tried bars bugs, rainx, kitten, metho, sinax, wurths, penrite, the yellow one from ALDI, plain water.
You have a link please? I use rainx and think it's quite good!
Isopropyl alcohol
Stoner Invisible Glass.
This stuff is great and is my regular, stock up m8s. Works well in foam cannon but their gold class foams better again as it's designed for that and doesn't have wax in it. Don't use this for a deep clean - use dish soap in a foam cannon to strip the wax, wash with a wax free car soap, then clay bar to clean and decontaminate the paint and dry and buff tinned wax in. Then to maintain it you can wash with this one.
use dish soap'
No. It's not suitable for cars as it is far to harsh for rubbers. It will greatly reduce the life of rubbers.
It is also not great for clearcoats
You also can't rinse the film off with cold water. Kitchen sinks use hot water to assist with rinsing
Use a product designed for the job. I don't use paint cleaners in my kitchen.
Why not just use a alkaline shampoo like NV SNOW+ or just use your existing PH-balanced shampoo? You are claying anyway. The clay removes any existing wax anyway.
Ultimate Wash & Wax also doesn't have wax in it. Just man made polymers which add a bit of gloss and protection between washesYou clearly have never used this product or if you have you didn't read the bottle where it says it contains a blend of wax and polymers. But sure downvote me when you yourself can't even read the instructions on the products you use - you're clearly very knowledgeable. Definitely trust everything out from this account guys - hes so smart he doesn't even need to read.
Chemist's take care of the MSDS and marketing take care of the label to appear to the masses. Meguiars ultimate wash and wax contains absolutely zero wax. The general public don't know what a polymer is. They don't know the difference between a wax, sealant or polymer. They are all types of detailing protection. Yes it has carnauba in it. Yes that's an ingredient of a car wax but it doesn't make it a car wax by itself.
Meguiars have a few spray waxes:
Quik Wax
Ultimate Wax
Hybrid ceramic waxAnd just like 95% of spray waxes on the market they contain no wax. They are man made spray sealants. Nobody markets sealants because the general public don't know what they are. If you want a spray wax consider Optimum Car Wax.
I didn't downvote you. I just gave better advice in avoid using things like morning fresh. Down voting and hiding your comments don't help anyone
And I have used the product and likely far more than anyone else. I have at least 10 bottles at home as well as another dozen types of car shampoos
I don't know need to read the label to know how to use the product. The bottle doesn't even have the dilution ratio. You would think this was far more important than using buzz words like wax
Came to say that you're wrong and what Wilburre is saying is totally correct. Claying isn't going to be removing your wax properly, its just to remove anything stuck to the clearcoat.
Not sure why everyone is downvoting him and upvoting you because what he said is pretty well known knowledge in car detailing
Claying isn't going to be removing your wax properly, its just to remove anything stuck to the clearcoat.
Yes clay will remove wax and sealants. Waxes and sealants bond to the clearcoat. It is not a permanent or semi-permanent sio2 coating which requires more aggressive manners (sanding). Clay removes stuff embedded to the clearcoat that can't be removed from washing. How do you suggest this occurs if it can't even get to the clearcoat because it has a superficial layer of wax on it?
@4agte: I didn't say the clay won't remove wax, I said it isn't removing it properly. Wax isn't going to stay embedded in the clay, its just going to spread it around unevenly.
I'll quote a post in discussion about LSP:
"Does claying remove LSP?
In theory, it shouldn't. If you read the patents about how detailing clay works (and it's part of the reason the patents were granted) it selectively abrades only above-surface contaminants while leaving the underlying paint surface unabraided."
My point is that claying isn't a reliable way of making sure your surface paint is free of wax.
Your choice of words was "You are claying anyway. The clay removes any existing wax anyway." which isn't true.
@alanw410: So many variables. How abrasive is the clay? How was the vehicle previously prepped? What type of LSP? You can't put different types of protection under the same banner. The durability can be from a day to months or years. You may not completely remove everything but I will remove everything by the time I polish. I clay first because it's more effective and extends the life of my expensive polishing pads
My original response was using dishwashing liquid is a bad idea. pawan1993 elaborated on this very well. Somehow we have gotten to a point my advice is completely wrong. If you clay you should polish.
@4agte: Fair enough, I hadn't come across the test where pawan1993 linked. Its been so common where dish soap has been used to remove lsp. So I'll accept that I was wrong about my assumption that lsp should be removed with dish soap.
I still wouldn't say clay is used to remove wax, you may argue that certain brands or types of clay are effective at removing wax, but it still isn't designed to be used that way.
@alanw410: Cheers. I have definitely taken what you have said onboard and learned something new about clay and its original patents. The day I stop learning will be the day I realise I've fallen behind.
@4agte: This is what makes me love detailing as a hobby. There's always something new to learn and try from a full decon/polish to something as simple as a maintenance wash. I'm still tweaking my ONR washes and have realised how the right technique can completely replace a traditional wash.
@pawan1993: Too right. I have learned so much from others. 10 years ago I would have insisted the 2 bucket wash was the only safe way to wash a car. Now days I know it's incorrect and sometimes an unnecessary chore
@sAmiZZle: Alternative is a rinseless wash like ONR. You won't believe how good it is until you actually try it. Only downside is you need a ton of microfibre cloths. I also have a compression sprayer for extra dirty cars.
Having said that, the two bucket method is still fantastic and probably the most straightforward method that won't leave swirls. Takes a bit more of trial and error to know what works with ONR for your car since each car is different.
@pawan1993: Car wash noob here, I usually go to cheap arab places in western Sydney.
Keen to give it a go myself. ONR sounds good as I'm in an apartment and I'm also lazy. What else should I be using to get my paint optimal?
Should I clay before washing, and any recommendations on what I should apply after washing with ONR?
Thanks
@[Deactivated]: Read up on ONR at r/autodetailing or even on the AutoGeek forums. Everyone does an ONR wash differently depending on what works for them and their car but the basics you'll need are 2 buckets with grit guards - one for tyre brushes and one for the rest of the car. I fill up the buckets about two thirds of the way (roughly 10L) and add some ONR to both based on the wash dilution. Use a wheel cleaner like Sonax to spray on your wheels and then scrub it with the tyre brush soaked in ONR. Then get about 10 microfibre towels and throw them into the wash bucket with ONR. When you pull them out then squeeze out some of the ONR so that the towel isn't dripping and fold it into quarters. You'll have 4 sides to work with with each MF towel. Take one side of a MF towel and start from the roof. Wipe the panel in straight lines once and then flip the towel so you don't have any cross contamination. Once you finish with the towel then set it aside and get a new one. Once you finish with the whole car then get a spray wax or sealant. Wet another towel in water and wring it out completely and spray some of the sealant/wax onto the towel and lightly wipe each panel dry in straight lines. The wax/sealant is used to lubricate the towel to reduce scratches and add a layer of protection.
The above is a good place to start but you'll keep reading, learning and figuring out when and where to add things to your regime e.g. a compression sprayer is great to pre-soak a car if it's extra dirty. Highly recommend using something called Merlin's Magic Elixir which is basically a forum user's mix of multiple Carpro products to form your own quick detailing spray which can replace the sealant/wax in the drying step. Also when it comes to claying and polishing, you don't want to do it if you don't have to. The less you touch the paint the better. Clear coats are getting thinner since paint processes are so efficient so you want to protect and maintain the paint rather than clay and correct it unless there are contaminants that need cleaning. But if you do clay, the process is wash (but don't dry), decon with Iron X/Tar X or similar, clay with either your wash soap/ONR or a quick detailer, rinse the car, dry then correct any marring left from the clay and finally protect with whatever product you want to use.
Also watch some of the Ammo NYC videos on YouTube. A lot of what he does is overkill for your own car but his videos are ridiculously informative for no cost and you can see his genuine passion.
The problem is with his/her recommendation of dish soap to remove LSP. You're causing damage to the rubber without removing any of your LSP.
There have been tons of discussions around using dish soap to strip wax and sealants from a car on detailing forums but there was a thread on AutoGeek where they tested the durability of wax/sealant on a built-for-purpose wash like Carpro Reset against a Dawn dish soap wash and they figured out that Dawn doesn't strip the surface bare but actually leaves a layer that feels like it's bare. Then when you apply a wax/sealant, it adheres to the layer that Dawn left behind rather than the clear coat so when that layer wears out you think that the sealant/wax has low durability when in actual fact, it's just the layer left by Dawn that has worn out.
tl;dr don't use dish soap, use a good, neutral wash without any additives like Carpro Reset to strip existing wax/sealants.
why not just link the thread?
Apologies, it wasn't Carpro Reset that was compared. An IPA wipe-down or clay/polish will remove the LSP. But feel free to go through the thread below anyway.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/66…
^ This. Dish soap won't strip wax, but leaves a film. It's designed that way to cover up water spots on dishes and to make them seem shiny
Ultimately, a light machine polish (or even hand polish) is one sure way to truly strip any and all wax/sealant.
This or gold class?
Gold Class
This
I just ran out of this stuff - thanks will be grabbing 2 more!
I think it smells good (IMO).
I have used the RED mcguirs one and this one is much better
Damn bought this on sale from SCA for $23 on weekend >.<
Are you a member?
Edit: different store, oops
Careful with their website. Tried to order a bottle via click n collect, it charged me the $15 but then popped up an error message saying "Page not available" and haven't received a confirmation email.
NOTE: Don't use this on glass (windscreen and windows). It has a light wax residue that cakes on after a while and is hard to remove.
So when you're hosing this off and it runs down your windows / windscreen is that still ok?
Are you rinsing and drying the car off properly? I have never experience this issue with the polymers in this wash? The polymers in this wash are also not substantial or durable enough to build up over time. It simply won't layer and bond to itself.
Just get some Windex from supermarket and spray and wipe with one microfibre cloth, then dry off any residue with another microfibre cloth. Make sure you wipe the wiper blade as well.
Wouldn't recommend Windex as it contains ammonia which impacts the UV coating on windshields. Use something like Stoners Invisible Glass. Meguiar's have a good glass cleaner as well.
Thanks for the tip. Windex does recommend their ammonia-free version for windscreen.
Been using this for 12 months. Never experienced that issue.
Damm ! Picked this up from supercheapauto for 24$ on the weekend. Will see if I can return.
Anyone know how much supercheapauto will price beat it by? Their website - https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/customer-service/price-bea… doesn't give you much detail on %
50 cents if item is below $50. $1 if between $50 to $100. Lol
Thanks OP. Got a few on C&C!
I'll stick to my sponge and soapy water
Thank you OP. Was about to order from SCA $20 on sale. Just ordered from Repco for $15.
Would this be good for a foam cannon?