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Cerwin Vega XD8s Compact 8-Inch Powered Subwoofer (80 Watts RMS) $161.10 Delivered @ Store DJ(/other) eBay

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Cerwin Vega XD8s Compact 8-Inch Powered Subwoofer (80 Watts RMS) $161.10 Delivered @ Store DJ(/other) eBay
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thebadmachine on 16/03/2019 - 02:14 ebay.com.au (463 clicks)
Last edited 28/03/2019 - 13:43 by 1 other user
PROUD

UPDATE: Deal updated with most recently available 10% off code.
Original PROUD 10% off Eligible Items on eBay Deal Post

How to setup with other speakers:
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/444563#comment-7062098

I know there’s only 5 available but there is another 4x available for purchase at the same price here
For those not concerned about warranty there is 2x more units at a cheaper price here
For a total of 10 units available.

RRP $299
Cerwin Vega are a known reputable brand in the Pro-grade market.
http://www.cerwinvega.com/home-audio/desktop-speakers/xd8.ht…

A cheap option for those looking for lower bass-extension.
Was researching decent subwoofers for cheap and came across this subwoofer with a
very similar build/design to the subwoofer that comes with Yamaha YAS-207 but with a bigger 8-inch driver (6 1/4 inch for YAS-207) and more advanced features (cross-over/phase control).

-

Features:
- Low-frequency crossover/volume/phase (0/180 degrees) control
- Thick MDF enclosure
- High excursion woofer
- Auto on/off
- Compact size delivers large Cerwin-Vega sound
- Includes desktop remote to control the entire system volume (with audio input jack)
- Magnetically shielded to prevent interference

Technical Specifications:
Frequency Response: 35Hz – 255Hz
Frequency Range: 32Hz – 390Hz
Amplifier Power: 80 W RMS

Note: Although I have not owned or experienced this product, I expect it will be lacking in tight/controlled bass desired for listening to music at higher volume levels due to its design. I think it will be fine for movies/games and maybe more mainstream music.
This subwoofer also has the ability to connect directly to source either through RCA or 1/4 inch TRS, then pass-through audio (full frequency range) to speakers through the same connections (for connecting to powered speakers/amplifiers lacking a dedicated ‘subwoofer output’).

Electrical & Electronics Cerwin Vega Speakers Subwoofer

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closed Comments

  • alvian on 16/03/2019 - 02:48

    Sorry but is it really a subwoofer if it cannot get below 35Hz?

    • thebadmachine on 16/03/2019 - 02:53

      I think it depends on the low-end extension of the speakers you are pairing it with.
      Soundbars with built-in woofers or Edifier R1700bt bookshelf speakers have a 60hz bottom end.
      So by definition this would be considered a subwoofer.

      This gets lower than the ‘subwoofer’ I am comparing it to which comes with the YAS-207 (40hz).
      And in outright manufacturer claimed specs, this gets lower than the Klipsch R-8SW (38hz @+/-3dB) from my previous deal (although Cerwin Vega does not state @+/- dB).

    • mckayver on 16/03/2019 - 05:02

      35Hz not a subwoofer. I had 4x12inch Cerwin Vega subs in my escort panel van back in the day and they where amazing. the car vibrated apart and yes I was that douchebag driving by boom boom boom boom

      • congo on 16/03/2019 - 08:39

        Link to those please

      • thebadmachine on 16/03/2019 - 11:30

        I will be keeping subwoofer in the title/description, as that is what best describes the product.
        I think comparing it to a 12 inch sub you will often see the inadequacies with overall volume & low-end extension.

    • AlexF on 16/03/2019 - 12:42

      It's for desktop use - not meant to be a genuine subwoofer.

  • Rauland on 16/03/2019 - 08:14

    No auto-off/on?

  • thebadmachine on 16/03/2019 - 17:00

    Deal updated with 10% off code.

  • thebadmachine on 16/03/2019 - 17:09

    Hi someone reported for insufficient quantity, but I have linked to 10 units (is this not the minimum requirement for a deal?)

    • scrimshaw on 16/03/2019 - 21:42

      That's fine. Report resolved.

  • [Deactivated] on 16/03/2019 - 23:17

    I got Edifier rb2000bt. Can i connect this subwoofer with edifiers?

    • thebadmachine on 16/03/2019 - 23:23

      If your Edifier’s have a sub out connection, you can connect that to the RCA input on the sub. (Set sub cross-over to ‘by-pass’).

      If you do not have a sub out connection , you can still connect it by connecting your source(CD player/Computer) to the RCA input on subwoofer, then connect the RCA output on the subwoofer to your Edifier speaker’s input. (Set sub crossover below ‘by-pass’ at your preferred frequency so that it crosses over with your Edifier’s).

  • [Deactivated] on 18/03/2019 - 23:22
    +1

    Re: Fortunes of the brand, an interesting Wikipedia page -
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerwin-Vega

    Not quite the perilous descent to just the name and logo with separation of all other intellectual property, sell-off. The fate of many brands in audio and electronics.

    Company persisted with foam speaker surrounds long after other brands and driver manufacturers did required research to get butyl-rubber surrounds working well. Beyond brand image as evolved (not well), the big mistake. Heat, humidity, foam disintegrates. Few people adult prior 1990 unfamiliar with that phenomenon. Soft-touch plastics on stuff coming out of China in recent years, current equivalent of that.

    Precious little reason to be rude and skewed, OP, and yes I have just seen this.

    I would suggest that you buy something as cheap as chips as this one you've posted. At modest volume levels, it will add little discernable distortion. It will add just enough additional bass to allow you to determine if of benefit to you, and for the music that you listen to. Maybe especially if you are currently listening to music via that Yamaha soundbar of yours, you may well notice a difference.
    Always keep in mind that even high-end home theatre speaker system manufacturers can at times struggle to successfully integrate a subwoofer as truly useful adjunct to some music, let alone most. Beyond movie soundtrack fare.

    Go from there.

    Interesting reminder of Cerwin-Vega brand by way of your post. +1

    • thebadmachine on 18/03/2019 - 23:43
      +1

      Hi thanks for your detailed and thorough reply, sorry if I came across as rude by ending that previous post.
      It was just that it seemed like either the post was poorly written, or that people were not reading it fully, and I took most replies as off-topic or mis-managed. Coupling that with my lack of patience I just requested mod to remove it.
      I got some good replies at the end though (just before post was closed).
      Which got me researching and looking again.

      As far as cheap as chips, 2 of the subs on that list will come close to the price of the Cerwin Vega in this post (I will post them as bargains when I decide to purchase).
      So I think I will go with one of them. Design wise I prefer a cube (probably better for sound dispersion).

      Edit: And rather than distortion, what I am quite fussy with is how quickly the cone gets moving and how quickly it stops (accuracy/fidelity).
      No real measure for that however, and no real option to listen to these subwoofers side by side before purchasing.
      Hopefully by sticking to an 8-inch driver I can find it hard to miss my target.

    • thebadmachine on 19/03/2019 - 00:29

      And have moved on from the Yamaha soundbar in-a-shelf for music listening in the bedroom. The subwoofer if purchased will be pairing with bookshelf speakers. Listening to them again today (Grand Piano track), still keep swaying back and forth about needing a subwoofer. Swaying forth at the moment.

  • bluesky on 19/03/2019 - 20:03

    Since your current speakers are producing frequencies 60Hz and above, anything to fill some of the gap will help.
    However, you don't want to go too cheap. Cheap subwoofers tend to be boomy because the in-built amp are generally imprecise, and do not control the subwoofers properly, hence causing boominess.

    Now I have a better understanding of your set/setup, my comments on good speaker isolation would not make much difference in your scenario, if your speakers are not producing very low frequencies.

    • thebadmachine on 19/03/2019 - 20:13

      They are bookshelf’s and reach down to 45hz.
      I’m just missing the real bottom end of certain recordings of certain instruments.

      And the doorstops are not so much isolation as the purpose was to raise them up a bit & separate them from the flat surface they are on. The rubber kind of helps with isolation, but I am aware the gains are minimal in a normal un-treated environment. The doorstops are the kind of hard rubber that doesn’t bounce when you drop it, really dense.

      • thebadmachine on 22/03/2019 - 15:52

        Edit: I dropped the doorstops from waist height. They bounced.. I was wrong.. I thought they were dense enough to absorb a door slamming.

    • thebadmachine on 19/03/2019 - 22:02

      Yes there are some of cheap amps, but I’m inclined to say it must matter less so with low frequencies (components are also getting better and better even for cheap speakers). Although I would still prefer quality components for longevity.
      I think boominess tends to come more from cheaper port direction/design (rear port facing against a wall etc), overall enclosure design, or driver type/quality.
      I’ve narrowed it down to 3 options in my post. I may just wait for new models and new discounts.
      Not in any rush here.

      • bluesky on 19/03/2019 - 22:58

        No, actually, good amp does matter with low frequencies. There are many types of bass sound from the different instruments - some sound hard, some sound mellow etc. The task of the amp is to deliver these variants accurately. Take the analogy that the speakers are like wild horses - which has to be reined in to perform a task, but not over or under-perform a task.

        Therefore, the role of the amp is very crucial. To say that it matters less with low frequencies is not true. But of course, it depends on where your journey is, with respect to the Hi-Fi quest. It is an interesting journey, and I wish you fun with it :-)

        The construction - port direction/design, quality of parts etc are all crucial and goes without saying.

        • [Deactivated] on 19/03/2019 - 23:54

          Cheap and genuinely good-sounding Class-D amplification has changed everything in recent years. OP lucky and has one less thing to worry about in that respect!

          • bluesky on 20/03/2019 - 00:42

            @[Deactivated]: Agree Dne, it is adequate for most situations. In fact, have looked into and built some D-class amps to play with. From a Hi-Fi perspective, a good Class AB amp will outbeat the performance of a D-class, because the feedback loop is a lot quicker, so the Class AB will respond to misbehaviour of the speaker near instantaneously. Implicit assumption, of course, is a well-designed Class AB amp :-)

            Whereas with Class D, due to the fact it has to produce the square wave, it is naturally more delayed comparatively-speaking. This delay allows the speaker to misbehave before being corrected by the amp. But due to the fact that amp cannot do this instantaneously, it results in some inaccurate sound reproduction by the speaker. The “slower” the amp, the more inaccurate the sound reproduction.

            The “slow” and “fast” we are talking about generally does not concern the average person, but the obsessive personality in search of perfection! :-) D Class does have its advantages - it runs super-cool, but this happen not to be the main criteria.

            • thebadmachine on 20/03/2019 - 01:10

              @bluesky: Yeah I can see where your coming from. I’ve read/seen a lot of Bi-amped powered HiFi speakers though, and often the tweeter and midrange is powered by the Class AB, and the woofer is powered by Class D.
              What you say makes sense, but it seems this AB/D bi-amping combo is quite popular. (Who knows how they arrived at engineering them this way. Efficiency, longevity, power to size ratio etc..)
              Source of example: Elac Navi’s series.
              Edit : sorry the example uses Bash amplifiers (apparently a combination/hybrid of AB and D, but have come across plenty of Bi-amped speakers that use AB for high and mid, and D for low.)

              • bluesky on 20/03/2019 - 01:49

                @thebadmachine: You are talking about active speakers with inbuilt amps. Class D is used to drive the woofers to reduce the heat output. The midrange/tweeter has less power requirements.

                As you can guess, my preference is the good old passive speakers - driven by external amps. Which allows control over the amps used.

                Having said that, there are some good sounding active speakers which suit lots of people too.

                • thebadmachine on 20/03/2019 - 02:11

                  @bluesky: There is an advantage to powered speakers with built-in amps.
                  The speaker manufacturers can chose the components to match specifically to the rest of the speaker and engineer it as a whole. Often with resulting better sound than the passive counterpart.
                  Recently active speakers have become more popular (KEF was one of the first to commit and test the market), and by the reviews of recent HiFi company releases they are really solid options.

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYlSV-knU0U
                  This guy explains how no matter how much tinkering with different amps/dacs/combinations he couldn’t get the passive Elacs to match the sound of the powered versions.

            • [Deactivated] on 20/03/2019 - 06:28
              +1

              @bluesky: Along with you being full of surprises, bluesky, a few of the things I was going to mention, covered in back and forth with the OP.

              As long as doesn't come to nurture profound love for Dub and Drum & Bass, of sort I have for a very long time, now, OP likely will be fine with choice made.

              In order that I don't unnecessarily comment in any further threads, I'm going now! :)

        • thebadmachine on 20/03/2019 - 02:19

          An just to add here to the topic of cheaper amps (Class D) for low frequencies.
          In music (for this explanation), I consider most bass frequencies to be relatively of ‘low resolution’ compared to mids & highs which are more detailed and full of resolution. (Of course this isn’t true, part of my whole point of buying is because I believe in a subwoofer’s effect on the entire frequency range)
          Of course not all music (a very fast solo on a double-bass, or a mad modern piece of piano music with intense fast staccato’s on the lower keys), but most music structures consists of relatively simple bass line or bass melody.
          So in this case of slow changes and little reflecting and overlapping of waves, I see less requirement for speed of feedback loop etc.

          • bluesky on 20/03/2019 - 02:44

            @thebadmachine: This is my hobby for a few decades now and I have listened to many high-end sets including active speakers. So, I have come to my own personal conclusions about what I like and believe in.

            Sure, there will always be differing opinions – each to their own. So you choose whatever you like.

            • thebadmachine on 20/03/2019 - 09:36

              @bluesky: Thanks for contributing your know-how. I have explained in other threads that I am weary about jumping into HiFi as it can become a demanding hobby. So I am trying to stick with what’s simple, and I suspect many new-comers are these days (with powered speaker/subwoofer setups).

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