Missed out on the last deal but this is even cheaper! Have been using this on Audi and VW vehicles and it has been great.
Nulon 5w-30 Euro Spec (VW.504 and VW.507 Approved) 10 Litres - $61 at Supercheap Auto
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2010 is the changeover year.
Is this still an EJ255 engine?If so, they're NOT picky on oils. I've built a few of these engines for street\race\drag use.
When they're new, a 30W oil is usually fine.
But once you start getting some KM's on it, move up to a 40W.Main reason is because a Flat Engine (any boxer) will see some increased Oil Control Ring wear, on the side it 'lays on'.
As such, you'll start to burn a little 30W especially during summer.This is actually why Subaru make the Upper Engine Cleaner you need to use at each service; there's just no escaping the oil consumption on a flat engine.
tldr; Low KM's, and modern EJ2** recommending 30W? this will do fine.
But normally, anyone who runs their Subaru HARD, will use a thick, cheap, Diesel rated mineral.Thankyou,
The car has done just under 70k even though its 2010 model. (grandpa owner previously)
i belive 2011 was the changed one from what i read herehttp://www.patriotsubaru.com/synthetic-oil.htm
i will buy this for now.. only question being will a 10w-40 semi syn oil be ok compared to 5w-30 since sydney never gets too cold, and the 40 maybe more relevent in summer
Most certainly. 10w40 is whats rated in older ej engines.
Im of the opinion that they only went to a 5w30 to save fuel, not for engine protection.
Mainly because i know for a fact the bearing clearances, oil pump, and piston rings remained unchanged.
So…. Why thinner?
Having avcs in the head means slightly thinner, but imo that just means dont go to a 50w in a street car.
How important is the upper engine cleaner? My mechanic said it only needs to be done every 2nd or 3rd service. I hope he's not just being lazy. Thx.
Yeah, 2nd or 3rd is fine.
Basically oil burns, makes peaks on the pistons, and they're potential hot spots to create detonation.
Its unlikely to ever need it every time.
I personally do, because at $12, why not? But im also track racing my car at least once a service.
I always stick with Castrol Edge. SN 5w-30/40. Working perfectly.
I only buy use oil that matches the manufacturer's specifications. Check your manual or use the vehicle selector on the SCA website. Your engine will have an oil designation such as SAE/API or ACEA. Match this to what is on the bottle and you should be right. This is suitable for ACEA A3/B4.
How long can I buy and keep these Oils before putting in cars? My Audi TT uses this one (from memory). Last year the oil went low before service interval (12 months) so just topped it up so wondering if I should buy it and keep to use after 6-7 months?
Depends on who you ask, some will say that oil lasts only a couple of years, some will say synthetic can last 10 years if unopened and stored correctly. Whatever the case, 6-7 months is fine.
Or for 10L of 10w-40, http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Valvoline-Engine-Ar…
That's actually really good, they also have 10L of 10W-30 for the same price. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Valvoline-Engine-Ar…
"Synthetic technology" just means budget semi-synth, but it's perfectly fine for your average runabout car.
How does this oil compare to the Castrol edge?
Honestly how could you tell? Unless you have two exactly identical engines doing exactly the same work each running a different brand and you run them till one dies I don't see how you could tell. As long as it meets the spec for your cars engine and is not some el Cheapo brand, I don't reckon it makes any difference.
Guys
is this ok for a Subaru Forester 2010 Basic Model (non turbo)
i know they dont like the cheap oil