Just received an email from SCA
60% off - 5L Shell Helix HX3 Engine Oil - 20W-50 $10.39, 5L Castrol Magnatec Engine Oil $17.19
50% Off Chemtech CT18 Superwash - 6L and Armor All Wash & Wax ProGlide - 1 Litre
Just received an email from SCA
60% off - 5L Shell Helix HX3 Engine Oil - 20W-50 $10.39, 5L Castrol Magnatec Engine Oil $17.19
50% Off Chemtech CT18 Superwash - 6L and Armor All Wash & Wax ProGlide - 1 Litre
Yes OP should have "club members special " in the title.
This in-store or online only?
Looking for engine oil 0W20…any deals appreciated:-)
What car are you driving that requires 0W20 in Australia?
Impreza mate.
I call BS.
BRZ and Toyota 86 too. 0W-20 or 5W-30.
Thanks for heads up! Went to Velocity Store and clicked through link to SCA for 2pts/$. Activated Cashrewards FF reminder add-on for 2.1% cashback. Joined SCA loyalty club for $5 paid on Amex Qantas Discovery Card for 5 QFF points + received $10 sign-up store credit. Added 2 x bottles of Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 @ $17.19ea. Applied $10 store credit to check out and paid remaining $24.38 on Amex Qantas Discovery Card for another 24 QFF points.
Wash up = 78 Velocity points (receipt shows total excl. $10 credit) + 29 QFF points + 10 litres of the oil both my cars use for total $29.38 outlay with 82c cashback coming my way.
As Charlie Sheen would say, that's what's called WINNING!
I remembered to use Cashrewards but not Velocity :(
I had to laugh when I picked up the oil and the guy gave me two free Castrol T-shirts as well! Apparently Castrol have a promo on. Buy any Castrol product = get a free T-shirt :-)))
Good for a free rag to wipe oil etc, of you dont want to wear the shirt .
Or donate to local op shop, they will get a couple of dollars for it towards their charity 🤗
think I need a spreadsheet to crunch all those numbers
Variety of 150g Sprays for $3
http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?w=sca+150g
What modern car uses 20w-50?
If you have to use this, its time for a new motor.
plenty of cars can. the recommended oil is based on the temperature range of where you live or where you drive the car.
Like to name some that have this oil grade as a recommendation.
ZRE182 Toyota Corolla
Toyota Australia in the Owners manual recommends a number of oil viscosities based on the range of temperatures where you operate the vehicle. e.g. if you live in Darwin the temperature rarely goes below say 18 degrees overnight. No need for a 5W-40 or 0W-20, you can use 20W-50.
Im sure there are other cars but they will always try to sell you the lowest viscosity because they're generally more expensive.
Far from being a "guru" you're really showing some ignorance here. Why does it have to be a modern car? Don't old cars need oil? Or do old cars just not count in your thinking? For the record, my 25yo BMW 740iL with the M60B40 V8 also used in the best V8 Range Rovers uses 20W-50 and it's an all alloy, chain driven quad cam, 32 valve V8 that does 286bhp + 240km/h bog standard out of the box. It's done 240,000km right now and doesn't use any oil whatsoever. What does your little turbo-charged rice burner do?
All these ridiculously light modern oils have been developed in response to increasingly stringent emissions legislation & fuel economy demands imposed upon car manufacturers. The manufacturers don't care because it's to their benefit that their engines wear out faster as a result of using too light oils. The sooner the engine wears out, the sooner you'll be back buying another new one. I choose oil based upon sound engineering principals as to what will protect the best, not on what politicians who know nothing about cars legislate for to minimise fuel consumption and nitrogen oxides coming out the tail pipe.
Good on you for keeping your older BMW on the road by using oil suitable for older high mileage cars (Shell quote). Note this oil isn't rated as synthetic, so low quality oil at that.
Of course older cars need oil. That's just a stupid statement. Just in most cases this isn't it, even in older cars.
I've had both a Range Rover V8 and a 2.0ltr turbo charged riceburner, as you called it, and I wouldn't run this oil in either.
If you know anything about oils it isn't just the grade but the quality for the oil. A vital part of oil in an engine is that it needs to move around quickly to lubricate bearings etc. Thicker oil does poorer at that particularly when its colder and when you start the engine.
Low viscosity oil does provide better performance and fuel economy. I reckon I'd be happier with that than the reverse, but each to their own.
Your assumption that synthetic=good, mineral=bad is way over-simplifying it. There are thousands of examples of heavy diesel powerpack motors in mining use running ISO 320 grade mineral engine oil doing the equivalent of millions of road km between rebuilds without issue. Some cars (admittedly though probably none that you would own), actually specifically identify synthetic oils as "not approved for use" by the manufacturer in their owner's manuals. Proper engines with chain driven camshafts, diaphragm damped hydraulic chain tensioners and solid valve lifters with shimmed tappets and cast iron blocks typically. Some examples are BMW E21 ///M1, E28+E34 ///M5, E24 ///M6, E30 ///M3. Cars that still today at 25+ years old are extremely capable devices with performance and longevity, owners of modern cars will only be able to dream about.
Synthetic is not bad, I use a very expensive version in my filled for life gearboxes where it is ideal because it never needs changing, but in an engine with hydraulic tensioners that rely on the oil not bleeding out the piston at rest to not start again sounding like a machine gun before it refills, stuff like Mobil 1 0W-whatever is ridiculous. Different though if you live in Finland in winter. Fortunately though, nowhere in Australia is like Finland in winter.
I would agree if I had a modern V8 or hi-performance turbo I would run some high spec oil not the bargain basement stuff.
I think the performance and fuel economy "benefits" of low viscosity oils are far fetched at best if not immeasurable. Bit like all the additives in 98 octane fuel that "clean" your valves etc.
Using sound engineering practice, what does your oil analysis tell you?
The dip stick isn't a measure of the best oil for your engine. Sorry to bust your bubble, but all combustion engine use oil even if not apparent from the dipstick.
"what does your oil analysis tell you?"
I have no idea. Getting one done on my car would be like you getting a chest X-ray when you have absolutely so symptoms or signs or illness. My dipstick is clean, the level never goes down between changes and when I do change it, my magnetic sump plug has nothing on it. For me, with no symptoms of poor running or high fuel consumption, that's good enough.
"all combustion engine use oil even if not apparent from the dipstick"
Yes they do, but some do it so slowly it can't be seen from the level on the dipstick between oil changes. And this is one reason why manufacturers are pushing so hard the supposed benefits of synthetic oil. Firstly & foremost, it's 3x the price = ker-chinnggg! Secondly, fully synthetic oil with a synthetic base doesn't burn. It's literally inflammable. This means it doesn't add to the concoction of burnt gases going down the exhaust the authorities measure to determine the engine's 'green' credentials and that looks good on the sales brochure. So go ahead and pay 3x the price for your watery thin synthetic oil if you want that warm and fuzzy feeling that you're saving the Great Barrier Reef by doing so, but if like 60% of the driver's out there, your car has a diesel engine in it, then sorry, but your diesel engine has already done far more harm to the GBR (and a whole lot more) than you ever saved by spending 3x as much as you needed to on oil.
@Legoman: Answered the question: "I have no idea".
@theguru1:
I know of no-one who has ever gotten an oil analysis done for a regular road going car used as basic transport. I get them done at Westrac all the time for industrial machinery to schedule major services and for breakdown maintenance, but suggesting I know nothing because I haven't got one done for my road car that has no running problems whatsoever only highlights your ignorance, not mine.
** Oil bargain only to Club members - sign up first if you haven't yet.