Currently half price, along with their 5L15W-40 Semi- Synthetic at $19.99: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gulf-western-gulf-wester…
Gulf Western Premium Energy SP Engine Oil - 10W-30 5 Litre $25.49 + Delivery ($0 C&C / in-Store) @ Supercheap Auto
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Salesniper on 02/02/2025 - 15:00 supercheapauto.com.au (1444 clicks)
Last edited 03/02/2025 - 07:57 by 1 other user
Last edited 03/02/2025 - 07:57 by 1 other user
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Cheers oil changes sorted
that's a great price!
A Gulf + Western product
Which one is more suitable for Sydney. 10-30 or 15-40.?
Age of car, order thicker less chance of leaking through gaskets.
Sorry, let me ask again. :P
Which type of oil is more suitable for Sydney weather?
10W-30 or 15W-40 ?Age of car, order thicker less chance of leaking through gaskets.
What’s the make/model/year?
I’d say 15W-40, given the warm temperate or subtropical climate. It’s not a cold climate.
Have a look in the car manual it'll normally show you what temperature ranges each oil works best in and what the manufacturer recommends.
New or old car, the temp range in Australia doesn't make a difference. It's really only for colder climates that freeze. And I'm not talking about a bit of frost on the grass. Thinner oil is more suitable for newer cars as the engine clearances and seals are much tighter plus it puts less strain on the engine.
As the car ages clearances and seals open up so it's usually better to put a thicker oil.
Temperature range of 10w-30 and 15w 40 can be googled but doesn't really change the thickness of the oil only in extreme temperatures, you should be putting in what's best for the age and condition of the engine.
When you start your car the oil is very thick and thins out as the engine heats up. 10w-30 is thinner than 15w-40 at startup so provides slightly better protection, a 5w or 0w even more. Until the engine reaches near operating temp the oil wont provide full protection.
10w-30 will a 30 weight oil at operating temps and is thinner than 15w-40 which will be a 40 weight oil at op temps. But the difference isnt that much.
If you are doing a lot of short driving where the engine doesnt get hot the 10w will be better for your engine as your oil will be thinner than the alternative ( but still wont be thin enough to provide full protection).
Try thinner-oil & see if there's any adverse-impact, eg oil leak, oil-consumption etc
You could be driving a 300kW car, street-racer etc…then my comments is NO-good, lol.
Cheers op, lunch sorted.
Will it work in a fryer? Asking for friend
Depends how much you like that friend.
Well done
where do i check my tesla for what oil it takes
No need to check, extra virgin fits the descriptive
www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk
Put your model in and it will tell you what oil to put in your drive unit/s and also which coolant and brake fluid to use.
A rear drive unit fluid replacement is going to cost a heap more than $29 LOL.
Semi- Synthetic is how much Synthetic? Anything above 0?
Synthetic isn't used in the right way with motor oils. The oils are all mineral oils extracted from the ground in the same way. The difference is synthetic oils are processed and treated in a certain way that makes them more resistant to changing their original properties, so even "full synthetic" is not made in a lab.
Having said that, I have no idea what the difference in process is between semi and full. Engineering Explained on YouTube has done lots of videos on this if you are interested
Yeah, I asked exactly because I saw a video saying that basically, in cheap brands (like the subject) the synthetyc part is in the amount that is nearly non-present. While in the expensive brands' oils the synthetyc part may be significant. So this is just a marketing trick to sell a regular cheap oil inclining that it is semi-synthetyc while in reality it is not. So this is not a deal, you get what you pay for. Unless, there is some valid information on the amount of the synthetyc component.
Have you rang the Gulf Western company to find out? The tech dept will talk to any caller. If you havent then dont badmouth any oil company without evidence.
Just because its cheaper does not mean its poor oil in Australia at least. The bigger companies have a large profit margin they want to keep. They will make claims about the competition without any evidence, as they know not every oil buyer is smart enough to see through it.
@ghosta: Even if they say something specific I won't trust without verification.
The small local companies have a smaller profit margin because cost of doing business in Sydney and anywhere around Thailand is very different, which may force them to invest less in the product.@Ozzster: So why do Australia brands like Gulf Western, Nulon and Penrite have such a strong following amongst heavy industry and equal any of the major brands in terms of performance tests?
You view seems very ill informed.
@ghosta: equal any of the major brands in terms of performance tests? Are they? Can I see those tests?
Speaking of properties, I noticed myself that semi- and fully mineral oils get little bits of orange after driving during heatwaves. Now I am having Gulf Western full synthetic, and it didn't get any visible differences after driving in similar conditions. But I started hearing pshssss for a second when I shut down the engine (no, it is not from the coolant bottle or radiator)
Snake?
I noticed myself that semi- and fully mineral oils get little bits of orange after driving during heatwaves
What do you think cause this ?
What was the oi change interval, car make-model, driving style (eg hooligan…lol ) etc
@Ozzster: Orange-varnished is likely caused by oil degradation.
I've not seen this in ENTRY level oil by PREMIUM-brand, eg GTX by Castrol, lol.
https://chat.deepseek.com/a/chat/s/fd0eef48-77b8-456a-b8ec-5…
'Synthetic' is a meaningless word because major oil brand don't agree on the definition. Anyone feel otherwise, pls provide a link to your source.
Mobil1 defines 'synthetic' likely VERY-different from GW.If you drive for mileage, rarely load your engine, rarely cold morning starts: say below 5°C, change your oil every 5k etc…a more expensive oil (Mobil1) is likely be of LITTLE-benefit.
If you can wait, $25 should get you oil with SN, A5, GF6, LL etc spec…because HIGHER-quality oil is needed to meet those spec.
Interestingly, there’s NO industry-standard definition for “synthetic-blend” motor oil. An oil can be labeled as a synthetic-blend provided it contains any amount of synthetic base oils. It could be 1% synthetic and 99% conventional, or vice versa. There’s no way to know for sure. Generally, you get what you pay for.
https://blog.amsoil.com/100-synthetic-oil-vs-full-synthetic-…This engine oil category is not strictly defined, which is why the intake of the synthetic component, in the case of (very) cheap synthetic-based engine oils, is lower, and sometimes even base group II oils are used as the synthetic component. This contributes to a lower price, but also to a lower level of quality. It is also the reason why it is recommendable to purchase this engine oil category from eminent manufacturers, especially the premium brand category.
https://totalenergies.rs/en/advice-proposals/ehow/difference…Buth the technical definition for synthetics and assumptions about the use of PAO changed in 1997. This is when Castrol made the very daring and financially brilliant move to turn its back on the unspoken rule that synthetic motor oil must be formulated with PAO> I replaced the PAO/ester blend in its Syntec brand engine oil with VHVI Group III mineral base stock - at about half the cost. This enabled Castrol to significantly reduce its base stock costs for the product and increase its margins, while arguably delivering the same performance as with PAO.
https://www.donsoil.com/definitions.phpNoone cares if you dont like the definition of synthetic oil. You need educating. There us a site called bobistheoilguy.com where there are articles you need to read. Are you a flat earther too?
@ghosta: Weird-> https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/synthetic-the-most…
Some commentators @ OzBargain relate 'synthetic' with mere marketing…may be they know something ?
You're free to broaden our knowledge-> ''Synthetic' is a meaningless word because major oil brand don't agree on the definition. Anyone feel otherwise, pls provide a link to your source'.
Maybe people need to observe their used-oil & apply critical-thinking to what they read?
Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 used-oil: 20mths vs 6mths: zoom-in the attached photos.
20mths used oil was from 2011 Yaris 1.5l with NO-varnishing on diptick & pour-hole…NOR excessive carbon-deposit compared to 20mths earlier.
100% metro-driving with engine-load from auto-trans & air-con. NO hooligan driving style.
Base-oil is likely more-of Group III hydrocracked from crude-oil & imo, likely to last an EXTRA 4mths: ie 2 yrs life base on HIS-use, lol.
It was a friend's Yaris & I test drove the 20mths used oil prior to changing it.
Btw, that was a 2019 purchase costing $20 from SCA, lol…https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/498954
https://ibb.co/G3QbxfMb
https://ibb.co/G4ssPz0j@ab c: Hilarious. There was a clown on here a few months ago that shook a container of oil and said he could tell its quality by the sound.
Some people will always be clueless about oil even though its not rocket science!
@ghosta: Maybe you ignore ALL my comments & share your opinion on OTHERS.
Lets agree to dis-agree & walk away, life is too-short to waste ?
Recommend 5w 30w, can I use this?
https://autobarn.com.au/ab/p/148295?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAA…
Nulon Full Syn. 5W30 $35 at Autobarn. Extra $9.50 for peace of mind I’d say.
Will this suit my TD42? 10.5L of oil every 5,000 kms isn't cheap.
Mate the td42 will take any oil, as long as you keep changing it every 5k (and filters every 10k) you will be right 👍
No.
15w40 diesel mineral oil is on special all the time.
That said I’m going to do a couple rounds of oil analysis to see if I can start stretching the interval out safely on mine.
oil analysis to see if I can start stretching the interval out safely on mine
1.Pls list the criteria will you'll be looking for &
2.At what point will you determine that the limit has been reach & hence used oil fail THAT-criteria ?Share share your thoughts in details ?
https://chat.deepseek.com/a/chat/s/210a9b84-68af-428c-9cbb-1…
Engine oil that used to be suited for my vehicle is no longer suited according to the Supercheap website. Is that because my car is a certain age now and that certain oils are not suited? I'm quite confused as to why this would be the case.
Just check the oil specification hasn’t changed, as that could explain why
I see. That makes sense if it's changed, I'll check.
The product description is inaccurate so you have to read what’s on the product image
I prefer the oil manufacturers website rather then the shops recommendation
https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/
I remember buying a bottle of this from Repco or Autobarn for $10, used it in my mower (instead of SAE30) with no problems.
Thanks OP! Next round of services for the cars sorted.
Recent decade, we went from 20W-50 to 5W-30. HIGHER-quality oil is needed to deliver the THINNER-viscosity ?
https://chat.deepseek.com/a/chat/s/c839a55e-21b9-4b64-ac7a-c…
I prefer gulf america