A Volvo hatch sub 35K driveaway is unheard of! Comes with a free Navigation Pack. Fairly decent specifications: https://www.volvocars.com/au/cars/new-models/v40/specificati…
Some other good runout deals on MY17 Volvo cars including the XC60 SUV Luxury for $55,888!
Agree. Probably a question for the Swedish marketing folks and their naming convention :)
Err… Volvo is Chinese owned.
They have the XC90 with a T8, which is also a 4 cylinder
"Just come up a name that sound cooler than T4-Hybrid, because we don't have a V8 model like previous gen".
Minus the "T", quiet a common naming convention, relating to the size of the vehicle rather than how many cylinders the engine has.
ie, BMW, Aldi, Mazda…
Audi*. What you are referring to is different Models. Yes it is correct with BMW with 3 Series, 5 Series and 7 Series and Mazda2, Mazda3 etc. In this case the nomenclature refers to different states of tune for the same engine, not size of vehicle.
Giving an up vote just for the use of "nomenclature"
@Wooden Spoon
Thank you for the typo correction, without I fear the community would not have realised which auto manufacturer I was referring to.
Reminds me of an article
@Cheap Charlie:
I'm so confused now. I went in to Aldi and asked where their hatchbacks were, and they were very puzzled.
What did you get me into Charlie?
Intel, too with i3, i5 and i7.
Just waiting for an M series from Intel.
Intel, really?
They have the most confusing naming scheme, and its deliberate that way as to be deceptive. Not to mention they use two branches of microarchitecture families, the "Core i" and the "Pentium" (a la Celeron and Atom). Brace yourself, my OCD side is about to come out and show you how its done.
…..
-Firstly, I'd abandon the old microarchitecture and opt all-in for a unified “Core i” family.
-And to keep things steady, I would re-brand this new microarchitecture family as a clean break from the messes of olde. Possible candidates for name would be along the lines of; “Bit” “Net” “Fiber” “Key” “Cell” “Eso” “Nub” “Axis” “Orb” “Nexus” “Pole” “Base” “Soul” “Root” “Hub” “Vita” “Life” “Cess” etc etc.
-Thirdly, I'd arrange the entire lineup from the least power hungry (TDP) to the most power hungry.
-And the lineup would be broken into sub-classes by using vowels, quality standings using numbers, nomenclature split by a hyphen, proceeded by the generation number and model number.
Hence, it would look like this:
Chip Family (Cell), Power Class (a), Quality Standing (1-), Generation Number (1), Model Number (00)
$ = RRP, W = TDP, 2c = 2 cores, 2t = 2 threads, (base speed) – (max speed on all cores)
Quality 1 = low, Quality 3 = medium, Quality 6 = high, Quality 9 = best binned + unlocked multiplier
And lo, the entire lineup will be accordingly:
Intel Cell A1-100: $30, 2W, 2 core/2 thread, 1GHz – 1.4GHz
Intel Cell A3-100: $40, 2W, 2 core/2 thread, 1GHz – 1.9GHz
Intel Cell A6-100, $50, 2W, 2 core/4 thread, 1GHz – 1.9GHz
Intel Cell A9-100, $60, 2W, 2 core/4 thread, 1GHz – 2.1GHz
Intel Cell E1-100: $60, 4W, 2 core/2 thread, 1.3GHz – 1.9GHz
Intel Cell E3-100: $70, 4W, 2 core/2 thread, 1.3GHz – 2.4GHz
Intel Cell E6-100: $80, 4W, 2 core/4 thread, 1.3GHz – 2.4GHz
Intel Cell E9-100: $90, 4W, 2 core/4 thread, 1.3GHz – 2.6GHz
Intel Cell i1-100: $90.0 8W, 2 core/2 thread, 1.6GHz – 2.4GHz
Intel Cell i3-100: $110, 8W, 2 core/4 thread, 1.6GHz – 3.0GHz
Intel Cell i6-100: $140, 8W, 4 core/4 thread, 1.6GHz – 2.9GHz
Intel Cell i9-100: $150, 8W, 4 core/4 thread, 1.6GHz – 3.1GHz
Intel Cell O1-100: $150, 16W, 2 core/4 thread, 1.9GHz – 2.9GHz
Intel Cell O3-100: $180, 16W, 4 core/4 thread, 1.9GHz – 3.4GHz
Intel Cell O6-100: $200, 16W, 4 core/8 thread, 1.9GHz – 3.4GHz
Intel Cell O9-100: $210, 16W, 4 core/8 thread, 1.9GHz – 3.6GHz
Intel Cell U1-100: $210, 32W, 4 core/4 thread, 2.2GHz – 3.4GHz
Intel Cell U3-100: $240, 32W, 4 core/4 thread, 2.2GHz – 3.9GHz
Intel Cell U6-100: $280, 32W, 4 core/8 thread, 2.2GHz – 3.9GHz
Intel Cell U9-100: $300, 32W, 4 core/8 thread, 2.2GHz – 4.1GHz
Intel Cell Y1-100: $300, 64W, 4 core/8 thread, 2.5GHz – 3.9GHz
Intel Cell Y3-100: $380, 64W, 6 core/12 thread, 2.5GHz – 3.9GHz
Intel Cell Y6-100: $430, 64W, 6 core/12 thread, 2.5GHz – 4.4GHz
Intel Cell Y9-100: $450, 64W, 6 core/12 thread, 2.5GHz – 4.6GHz
Intel Cell Z1-100: $450, 96W, 6 core/12 thread, 3.0GHz – 4.4GHz
Intel Cell Z3-100: $500, 96W, 8 core/16 thread, 3.0GHz – 4.4GHz
Intel Cell Z6-100: $550, 96W, 8 core/16 thread, 3.0GHz – 4.9GHz
Intel Cell Z9-100: $600, 96W, 8core/16 thread, 3.0GHz – 5.1GHz
…. … … etc etc
you must be young lol
they had pentium M last decade…..
Damn aldi has cars in this weeks special? Riotssss
Yes, the same with Supermarket BMW and Supermarket Mazda. Cuckssss
Sorry, I am looking for something more "appreciating" in value with time, around 80k.
Thanks for being so articulate: what an insightful comment.
Not sure how I haven't seen this yet.. wow.
Maybe he was just trolling to see if he could get a refund on his 'degree'
Westpac grad?
all new cars lose half their value in 5 years.
Not according to Westpac Investment Analysts - apparently they are a high yield investment
Hows your work going in Westpac?
There are some pretty good cars for around 80k but unfortunately they're all in backorder and reserved for Westpac employees only.
Baha… nice!
Never again after buying an XC60 T5 with a powershift transmission.
Please elaborate…
Pinging engine and a dual clutch transmission that couldn't change gears smoother or quicker than a manual.
Could never be bothered researching how close the Volvo Powershift is to the Ford Powershift but it must be similar/same:
https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2017/07/accc-sues-ford-over-its-d…
Sure, this V40 has a different engine and different transmission, but I couldn't care less. Never again for a Volvo for me.
Should have kept my appreciating 993 rather than cashing in and buying a POS family Volvo.
wow you would have had to have pried the 993 from my cold dead hands, sorry to hear about the volvo :(
Yep, and even worse was that it was about 3-4 yrs ago just before the 964/993 prices doubled :(
So never again Volvo.
Probably the same powershift used in a Ford. Which they have stopped using. (the two share plenty of platforms and parts). Massive recall worldwide.
Similar to the VW DSG. Audi, VW and Skoda are out.
Powershift = Powershit
@googleyahoo69:
The Ford Powershift was plagued with problems from material choice down to faulty circuitry (partially due to material choice with PCBs cracking). This is a reliability issue and a design flaw.
This is just one example of a dry dual clutch.
The DSGs from Audi, VW, Skoda (collectively as VAG) suffers from durability issues as the predictive clutch can have exceptionally fast wear rate if the driver isn't trained to drive a dual clutch vehicle. VAG also produce wet DSGs that have largely compensated for the clutch misuse.
thats the same problems as Ford Focus's? your driving it wrong if your ask Ford.
Ford say that surging in reverse in a G6E Turbo is 'a characteristic of the vehicle'. BS.
@MetalPhreak:
Don't get me started on the inner fronts wearing out. Luckily the car is laid up now so I'll worry about it in a decade.
Like they say Volvo drivers are never involved in any accidents, they just cause them all
..and we save how much?
$34888 if you don't buy it. What a bargain!
Doesn't seem that great of a deal… am i missing something?
https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Volvo-V40-2017/OA…
pardon my ignorance
Excl. Govt. Charges and Navigation Pack. Most importantly, used vs new.
Government fees is approx 1k, and there's 26km on the odometer.. how much newer are u gonna get?
$1200 stamp duty and rego. It actually said 121 kms when posted. Might have been driven by different drivers and might become a bigger number when you see it.
looks like a pre-registered. some company pre-register the cars to meet their quota and then sell them as "used", or someone has won them as a gift and don't want the car. kinda like a demonstrator.
Nearly 2 tonnes for a 1.5L engine…
A comparable vehicle in its class would only be 1.5 tonnes…
Holy crap isn’t this Corolla/Golf/3 size?
Wrong. V40 weighs 1450kg - about the same as others in the class. No idea where you're getting 2 tonnes from.
From their specs sheet listed in the op:
Six-speed Geartronic™ automatic transmission 1965
It seems you're right, the Volvo Australia website does in fact state that. However, they have incorrectly listed the car's weight using the GVM figure.
From Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_V40_(P1): kerb weight: 1,357–1,498 kg
The Volvo NZ website lists the kerb weight of the T4 as 1428kg (they don't sell the T3 there so I can't get a direct comparison, but it would probably be almost the same).
Actually curious to know if OzBargainers do buy cars brand new? I thought the rule of thumb is spending only 10% of your income on car, buy second-hand and only pay with cash?
All my cash is for laundering in cba ATMs.
they took off the $2 fee now. You win again.
i purchased a car brand new, albiet only a 25k car. was great, the car is still going today 4 years straight no issues. however if i were to do it again id buy something 2-4 years old at like 60% of the price.
for example a VF Evoke commodore in 2013 was 36k. for 15k now you can find them under 100k kms.
No one except fleet buy Evokes. SV6 is normally around $38,990
This. Buy a storm
I’ve never had a new car, but always have practically new cars. $25-30k at auction gets you something near-new, and with factory warranty remaining there is hardly any risk.
Last one was 6 months old with 5,000km at 60% of the new price.
wow what sort of car was this?
I am half a gear head so maybe I am looking at the wrong cars. I haven't committed to buying a car because I don't want to drop money on a car that I wouldn't enjoy driving and can't seem to find a car (that I like) that depreciates that much
What sort of auction?
All my of vehicle purchases are new, high-yield investments.
bought 3, thanks OP.
Hope you used cash rewards and price matched at Officeworks.
Price matched? Amateur! You get them to price beat!
I seriously hope you are getting $50 back with amex.
hahaha you cracked me up. thanks.
Mazda 3 Astina price.
I’m trying to figure out what their target market is. I mean they’re nice cars, fairly upmarket and safe, but I don’t know anyone that would buy one. Almost like they’re aimed at wealthy people that have no interest in cars.
The V40 is very dynamic to drive and share the common platform as well many parts with the Ford Focus. Both drives quiet well.
I actually find the exterior as well dashboard very appealing .
Anyone thinking of buying a hatch to put in their garage should seriously think of holding off for the new Nissan Leaf which should reach Australia soon. They have increased the range and power, and it should come in costing 40k, will probably be the fastest hatch off the line available today, and for only 5k more than this you can practically say goodbye to servicing and petrol costs.
They will find a reason that you desperately need to bring it in every 6 months so they can slug you a few hundred bucks
I know a few people that have the current model, servicing intervals are 10k and a standard service at Nissan is $89, however considering how little they do you can just forego most services altogether
That’s great, but remember, after an initial trial run, Aussie dealers refused to stock the previous Nissan Leaf, because they couldn’t sell them for a profit and made no money on service. You may well find the same resistance again. I’d be looking at the Renault Zoe instead, at least it has dealer support.
The situation now is that second hand models are just about appreciating because there is so little supply and more demand than ever. Renault is the same company as Nissan anyway.
Well it’s not, there is some cross ownership and platform sharing, but they aren’t the same company. The old leaf is not a good second hand buy as the car doesn’t have a BMS. Severe battery degradation is the result. Also there isn’t a single one listed for sale in Australia, so I don’t see how you can determine that they are appreciating.
@Burnertoasty: i believe you are getting your news online from the US, and it doesn't really apply in Australia. I haven't spoke to one owner (and I have spoken to a few) who have battery degradation issues here. In the US, battery degradation can be an issue between the very hot weather (e.g. In places like Arizona) and the fast charging which is everywhere over there. They have changed the battery chemistry twice since then for that reason, but still don't believe you need a cooling system. To add to that you can do literally thousands of kms of driving and 10-15A charging without the battery temperature gauge ever budging from dead centre where it should be.
Regarding the cars, they were cheapest about 1.5-2 years ago, now you will struggle to find one. People who own them almost universally love them, some even going out and buying a second.
@Jackson: Nissan Leaf is not capable of fast charging. The only cars on the market right now that can fast charge are Teslas. Arizona has a similar climate to much of Australia, so I don’t see where your argument comes from, but climate isn’t the issue, it’s the temperature generated within the battery from both charging and driving. You should hear the BMS on a Tesla, it’s on and off all the time. Deg is an issue with the leaf, regardless of locale. Electric cars require a BMS to maintain optimal battery life and performance, there are no two ways about it.
@Burnertoasty: the leaf is capable of DC fast charging, in fact practically all top tier EVs are, eg. I3, Zoe, and Bolt. Feel free to do your research.
On top of that, you would have to live in the desert here to match the heat in Arizona, 4 months in the year their avg hi temperature is over 38 degrees, that's the avg high, it gets much higher (often 45) https://www.currentresults.com/Weather/Arizona/Places/phoeni…
Also, 10A charging doesn't heat the battery up at all, and driving around doesn't much either, there's enough natural cooling going on most of the time there, it's the extreme heat and fast charging that has been known to degrade batteries, speak to some people who own them, I have.
But the real issue here, as illustrated, is the amount of misinformation spread around the internet by people who have no idea. It's amazing. I am not saying that battery cooling is worthless, but you are absolutely wrong that there's no two ways about it
@Jackson: I'm sorry buddy, but 50kw might be called fast charging, but it isn't. You need 100kw+ to have actual fast charging. Have you ever tried to charge an electric car? It's not even worth bothering unless its a supercharger or you are doing if overnight.
You are wrong about 10A not heating the battery at all, and driving not heating the battery. While I haven't ever driven a Leaf, I have spent a lot of time in Teslas, and I can tell you for a fact that the battery heats up from a standard wall socket (@10amps), and the BMS opens all the front louvers and turns on the fans.
Degredation in a Leaf is well documented, arguing about it on the internet doesn't change that.
http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/Battery_Capacity_Loss#Nis…
@Burnertoasty: well now we have established that it's more about semantics, I'll stick with the majority on the definition of fast charging.
Theres also no doubt that cooling the battery is a great idea, but theres no point comparing a 120k car to a 40k car and sighting this feature as a deal breaker (or to a petrol car for that matter, as in the OP). Currently gen 1 leafs have been on the road in Australia for about 5 years and I haven't heard of anyone needing a replacement or being eligible for one, which in this case means losing 1/4 of the initial capacity in the first 6 years if use. All estimations are that the battery is actually lasting longer than expected. Also the consensus that I have been hearing is that time is the main factor with this degradation and not kms, which would dictate that charging and discharging alone isn't causing the bulk of degradation.
Aside from that, yes of course the batteries heat up, however they don't do so at a rate that registers on the temperature gauge, which either means again the e gingers are idiots or they actually don't think that the amount it heats up is worth reporting, or at the least the scale which they need to be able to report on is 6 times more than what would be standard heating/cooling difference from ambient (judging by the number of bars above an below the centre mark).
Further you then need to consider battery degradation in your average Tesla with the BMS and whether it is worth worrying about that for a battery that is 1/3 the size (at a guess) and also close to 1/3 the cost. I need it may be, and a BMS could be relatively trivial to implement and Nissan could be complete a-holes for not doing so, but that doesn't mean that the numbers don't still stack up against petrol or luxury vehicles. Lots of factors to consider. BTW I haven't had time to read your link, but I may get to it one day, it's a lot of information :)
Good bye to petrol cost! You sure can afford when you own a Electric Power Company, good luck!
A 70 dollar tank costs 12 dollars in electricity, an average Australian driver would save $1500-2000 per year.
Moreover many people with solar panels have excess electricity they put back in the grid, this means for those people the cost could be near zero.
I think I read that it will have a bumper-car style single accelerator/brake.. Release pedal and it stops kind of thing.
Yes, there will be a one pedal driving mode that leverage the Regenerative braking, however it will still have a brake pedal
Ah cool. Makes sense
I thought it was for XC40. Still a pretty good price for a Volvo.
Swedish car but now own by Chinese company…☹
Thankfully the swedes were still in control during the development of this car
Hoyts is owned by Chinese company as well… definitely a no go now that they have free recliners for normal tickets.
I'm no Volvo fanboy but i absolutely cannot understand how people buy high spec Mazda 3's/Corollas etc.. when these are in the same price bracket. Safety systems/engineering is on a totally different level
Well to be fair it’s an old man’s car brand, a five year old model, built on a focus chassis, seriously overweight, under powered, and base model. It might be “better” but I’d still be comparing it to a high spec 3 or Golf.
I agree on one point though, like buying a washing machine, you only buy a Corolla if you want something cheap, reliable and white and/or have completely given up on life.
"cheap, reliable and white and/or have completely given up on life."
I want a car that matches my character, after all.
1.5 litre does sound underpowered but it is engineered. I doubt driving it would feel 'underpowered'
There are more things to take into consideration than purchase price. Resale value on Volvos is atrocious. After 3 years, a V40 is worth about 50% of it's original value, compared with about 70% for the Mazda3 Astina. This means if you were to sell it after 3 years, you'd have an extra 7 grand in your pocket if you bought the Mazda over the Volvo. In addition, Mazda includes metallic/pearl paint free of charge, while Volvo charges $1100 for it.
Nothing like made up figures to support your argument. 3 year resale on a Mazda isn’t anything like 70%, it would be around 50% according to both Carsguide and RedBook. The only car which is anywhere close to 70% is the $100k+ Toyota Landcruiser. It’s nuts how people here just completely make up crap to support their contention because they probably own one of these cars.
It's a 4 cylinders 1.5T, why call it T3, make it sound like 3 cylinders. XD