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VDE Screwdriver Set 8pc 1000V $8.99 @ALDI

1310

These screwdrivers for sparkys & Handymen are up there with the best,
Before you go having a dip saying. tight a$$ tradie should buy some real tools instead of cheap Aldi ones this is where you are wrong, I've had and old set for 6 years been a sparky for 12 years, they are still going strong! Confotable grip and good basic sizes.
Magnetic, hardened blade tips
Insulation protection up to 1000V
Sprayed on insulation for blades
Includes 125-250V voltage tester (no I would not trust this)
Starts Saturday Be Quick I'm Grabbing 6 Sets

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closed Comments

  • +27

    Who knew broden did an apprenticeship!

    • +7

      thats why hes been quiet

      now hes back with a vengeance. and hes going to "screw" us harder this time

    • +1

      Hater goin hate
      I have led flood for sale for you $132 + tax + tip

    • Gold, can a mod work out if that I e neg is from the OP? Come on OP, you have to pay that comment

  • Does it come with a case or are these just loose?

    • +5

      Keep the box in case they're loose.

      • +1

        wordingly good !

    • They come in a crappy plastic mould.

      • +2

        In oppose to a quality plastic mould?
        Same stuff

        • +3

          As opposed to a plastic mould like the Stanley everyday screwdrivers. The one with the carry handle :)

      • +5

        So while they are new, I like to inject some no more gaps, or silicon to stiffen them up. makes it easier to put in my tool chest afterwards.

        • That's a great idea that I will be following - thanks!

        • mind explaining what you mean. keen to understand but im not sure im following

          PS all - is the drill bit set worth it you think @ $7.99?

        • +8

          @chriskq: What he means is the holder is basically really cheap thin plastic tray that will last about a week before it splits or cracks. If you flip them over and fill them with some sort of expanding foam or other substance to strengthen them they will last a lot longer and actually support the tools for a much longer time. If you have ever seen an old socket set you would understand what i am talking about as even though those are usually in metal cases the inside holder section is plastic and usually gives way due to the weight and the constant removing/ replacing of the sockets over time.

        • @raydragon: Thanks for taking the time to respond and what you have said clears it up for me (I am very much a novice handy man . 1 silicon tube will be purchased as well. Cheers!

        • @chriskq:

          I need pics or video I still don't understand

        • @chriskq: i don't have that exact one, but I bought a workzone branded masonry one a couple of years ago and it's been good. The bits look the same but it was half the size (half as many bits) and cost me just as much. Better than the cheap craft right stuff from Bunnings (although that's not saying much)

        • @chriskq: 1 silicone tube probably won't do it. One can of expanding foam will.

    • +6
      • Erm, that just looks like packaging, no? Anyways looks like there's no case.

        • +3

          THAT'S THE JOKE.

        • +2

          @Munki: Sad when you have to explain these things.

        • +2

          @The Araldited Wallet: A little bit of me dies every time I encounter such a thing.

        • -3

          @Munki: with amount of stupid stupid on this planet you must be hollow man right?

    • +5

      Not true

    • +9

      Rubbish. User error - they strip because you use the wrong size.

      • +2

        or turn the wrong way ?

    • +20

      That means the screwdriver is stronger than the cheese screws you use.

      Also a big difference between Phillips head and Pozi-drive head screws. Use the wrong driver on it and yes, it will strip them over continued use and damage your driver over time.

      If these are stripping the heads out of your screws, I would look more at your application and technique before blaming these screwdriver…

      Great tradesmen always blame their tools…

      Difference between Philips & Pozi

      And from that site, the best quote on why you are stripping your "Philips" screws…

      One of the most common problems with the screws are that to the untrained eye both recesses look the same. A Phillips Driver will fit into a Pozi screw head but a Pozi driver will not fit into the Phillips screw head, it is not recommended to use a Phillips driver with a Pozi screw as it will eventually round off the recess of the head causing damage to the screw and making it unusable.

      • Even apart from Pozi (the screw type used by Ikea, amongst others) there are other cross head screw types that will perform poorly with philips drivers. Need to use the right tool for the job!

      • +5

        I just learned something new today!
        Thank you

    • +2

      @GimmeNegs

      Tradesman blaming his tools? Or weekend warrior?

  • +4

    For the average Ozbargainer, who uses these for an hour a week, these are an absolute steal.

    For someone who uses screwdrivers, all day everyday, I'd steer clear of these and invest in some Wihas

    • The Wera laser cut ones are great. I have got screws out with those that nothing else could get out.

  • +1

    If they are crv and not chrome plated but matt should be fine. The standards they need to comply with cover shaor and size of blades and hardness not just insulation tested

    Thks I will be getting some if they don't run out

  • +20

    6 sets x 6 years per set (min) = 36 years supply.

    12 years a sparky + additional 36 years = 48 years sparkying

    Apprentice at 17 y/o, retires at 65 y/o……the math checks out.

    • +1

      Yeah… Except 30 years ago people were using flat head screws. Think we will be using phillips in 30 years?

      • +1

        Seeing as though I still see flat head screws, maybe.

        Although the sonic screwdriver might have been invented by then.

      • +6

        Given as they use phillips head screws on lightsabers, yes.

        Ref: http://i.imgur.com/qRVMt3s.png

        • +23

          But that was a long, long time ago.

        • More than likely, these are Pozidrive. Too shallow and with a flat bottom in the drive slot. Slots also look too wide/long for Philips drive.

          I always knew that these were stolen alien technology! UFO lands at Roswell and we start using Pozi soon after…

        • +1

          @macrocephalic: And Far, Far Away…

        • i think that looks more like a Mortorq than a Phillips

      • +3

        Considering the phillips was popularised by the Model T, I don't think it's a flash in the pan. Also, many/most screws that people call philips are actually pozidriv.

        • This! Exactly. I don't know how many people I have had to tell, no, that is a Pozi, not a Philips…

      • +1

        Not sure what you were doing 30 years ago, but I can assure you philips have been the most common screw since at least the 1960s.

        • BS. My house was built in 87. Full of flatties.

        • @Wallyt99: The sparky was probably getting rid of his old stock.
          ;)

        • @Wallyt99: probably just an old bloke did the work, my dad always used flatties over philips, he was used to screwing them in and there's almost no chance of stripping them

      • Got a builder mate who's pushing hard for hex-key screws, so maybe they'll catch on. It'll be a while though.

      • I have only ever seen flat head in electrical terminals…

    • +4

      I keep them for he apprentices that leave one behind per job 😂

    • sr8rippinpro in his oscar winning apprenticeship performance for: "12 years a sparky"

  • +1

    @sr8rippinpro

    Thank you very much original poster.

    I can say that these are definitely good quality screwdrivers from my personal experience of using them for many years now.

  • +2

    sure, i'd trust the 1000V rating. Anyone willing to test?

    Being these are VDE screwdrivers, you'd assume they're really only for electricians (who else needs them legally?)

    If you're an electrician, and you really rely on the VDE rating and work on live cables, do you really want to risk your life to save $50? If it was my money I'd be buying the tried and tested Wera or Wiha models. Then again, if you're a sparky, these wouldn't even be considered surely.

    For the weekend warrior, no doubt these are OK.

    • +1

      I'd actually be interested as to the results of an actual test. I mean devices do exist for testing this that don't consist of prodding some live cables. I do agree however with practicing caution when dealing with electricity. Until a concrete test comes out I would definitely err on the side of caution.

      Also the laws in this country as far as electricians go are pretty ridiculous. You're a few bits of legislation short of having to call one in to replace the batteries in your smoke alarms :P

      • +1

        To get the VDE stamp on any piece of equipment it has to be submerged in a bath and have 1000V run through it for a while. So if they have the stamp you would assume that they have passed. Too risky to put it on there if they havent been tested.

        • Too risky to put it on there if they havent been tested.

          You're kidding right? Do you think that the unknown and untraceable factories that churn these out in China give a damn about putting on certifications that they haven't been tested or approved for? IF you do I have a bridge you may be interested in.

    • -2

      A real electrician would use the back of his hand to test.

      Its the current that will kill you not the voltage.

      • -2

        Wow that's the dumbest statement I have ever read.

        Mods should remove it due to utter stupidity.

        An electrician uses a multimeter!

        • +4

          No they don't. Ever.

        • @Jake D: Huh? In industry, I assure you they do.

        • @abb: works great unless you've left it amps mode and it blows up in your face.

        • @fleabag: haha, yeah your $10 cheapie will do that. A decent meter has a fuse in it. A good one will beep at you to warn the probes are in the Amp socket when you switch to Volts. Of course, no meter can prevent you doing the wrong thing, although my first good meter was one without Amps at all, which avoided the problem…

      • -1

        A real man uses his knuckles to test the current.

      • I'd be happy to use the back of your hand to test.

      • +5

        Chuck Norris tests voltage with his ballbag. True fact.

      • don't be silly that's what apprentices are for :)

    • -4

      The rating isn't for WORKING on 1000v. It's just in case you inadvertently touch something live, which can happen.

      Screwdrivers and usually tested uo to 10,000 volts in a water bath.

      Also, safe electricians NEVER work live.

      • +2

        They do. Last resort, but they do.

        Ask an electrician how many times they've cut through a live wire. Stuff happens.

        I did this a couple of years ago after checking for live multiple times and I was glad my $80 pair of Knipex side cutters were destroyed and not me.

      • Notable exception for the disconnect/reconnect guys. They're braver than I am.

    • +1

      Just curiously, is there anything a weekend warrior can do electrically (legally)? The former owners of our place seemed to be weekend warriors and DIY'd everything themselves - which means we're just going to get professionals in anyways, especially to do something as important as electricals. From what we've seen done so far, I wouldn't trust them to close a jar of vegemite properly.

      • +2

        You can change a lightbulb and test your safety switch (in your meter box).
        That's pretty much it.

      • +3

        Be careful assuming Electricians do a proper job though, or any other Tradie for that matter! The absolutely disgusting work by the so-called 'Qualified Electrician' who worked on our new-build 4 years ago resulted in me having to go around to every single GPO and light fitting in the house and redo all his very dodgy, very dangerous work. Leaving huge amounts of copper exposed and in some cases not even bothering to screw the wiring down (including one case behind the switchboard!) just floored me. Massive fire risk and I even have photographic evidence of copper wiring discolouring after a few months due to the heat build-up! Add that to all the other gob-smackingly bad workmanship (not even close to craftsmanship mind you) and we just had to sell up and move. Wanted to take it to QBCC but had some advice from the only decent tradie on the build (the Window installer of all people) who said it'd be a waste of money & time because their inspectors were all ex-Tradies who would simply go through the house and tick everything off as 'acceptable' anyway. Glad we followed his advice TBH because we've had other friends go down that path and have ended up tens of thousands of dollars poorer, stressed out of their brain and still haven't got what they paid for.

        Thought I'd feel guilty about passing on such a poorly built house however everything 'passed' that needed to pass so hey, no guilt here! All documents and all contact details of all Trades & Suppliers involved gladly passed on to the new owners for complete transparency as it was still covered under the warranty period when we got outta there. Worst thing we ever did was build. Best thing we ever did was sell up and move back into an older, non-bling house built when people actually gave a damn about the task at hand.

        Rant over ;)

        • +4

          This is why I do as much as I can myself, cos no one else give a crap except to get paid and get the f out these days. Tiles on thr wrong wall, shit in the wrong spot, then they over charge you and expect payment. Such an old story that I have had to hear over and over.

        • +1

          @Jackson: Absolutely. I wanted to do the owner-builder thing or at least be onsite to supervise everything throughout the entire build however the need to take that amount of time off work would've hindered the budget so much that it wouldn't have been possible anyway. Anyone can do anything with the right guidance and tools however time frames & cost unfortunately always creeps in to the equation, especially for those larger projects. Gotta say though, the single best outcome from spending over half a million dollars on having a custom designed house built is that we now know never to do it again and to never ever trust a Tradie again as long as we live… so it wasn't all bad :) Life lesson learnt!

        • Years ago in NSW every instance of new wiring work was inspected/tested by the local county council Installation Inspector (provided the installing electrician notified them of work done) Then it was decided to cut costs and reduce the number of inspectors and allow the electrician to inspect his own work with a few random inspections done by authorities. In the next few months the last remain Inspectors jobs in the major western Sydney authority will be gone after being declared redundant. The vampires will be well and truly in charge of the bloodbank

      • +3

        I think you're allowed to work on appliances, replace plugs on leads, stuff like that. Fixed wiring? No, completely illegal.

  • I've have some Workzone screwdriver sets- black and yellow.

    Soft grip handle, hardened magnetic tip, excellent tools- Made in Germany. I think I paid about $12 for the set, a real bargain. Much better quality than the Stanley or Cresent set for $25-$30.

    a year later on they sold the same set but this time made in China. looks the same, it was reduced to $7 a set, a grabbed a couple at that price to leave at my parents and in laws. Not sure they are the same quality as the German made one as I haven't used it extensively.

  • +1

    Don't think Aldi would make say that if they haven't been tested to make those claims..1000 v insulation protection

  • +2

    1000v insulation protection when its new isn't a big deal. A few spins of electrical tape will get you that no problem. Its how it lasts through the years that is the unknown here. Last thing you want is to pull out your trusty aldi screwdriver you've had for 5 years, only to find when you need the protection the plastic has worn away.

    Besides, all domestic is max 340v, and nobody should be working live unless its unavoidable, so unless your working on solar or opening up a microwave, it's a minor factor.

    • 340?

      • +1

        In Australia (at least) anything below 1000V is considered Low Voltage (there's also ULV and other designations).

        So a 800V line is considered LV!

        That's why there's 1000V rated screwdrivers.

        • ELV = Extra low voltage
          alternating current (AC) voltage less than 50V, or direct current (DC) voltage less than 120V. Unlicensed personnel can safely install ELV wiring. See also AC, DC, and IE

        • -1

          @sr8rippinpro:

          Unlicensed personnel can safely install ELV wiring.

          Safely, probably. Legally, not so in most situations. You still need a license to install network cabling, even in your own house, and network cabling is definitely ELV. This is not because the network cabling is dangerous, it's because it COULD become dangerous if somebody drives a nail into a wall, and it accidentally goes through a mains cable and through the network cable, which would make the network cable deadly.

          It's more complex than that, but that's the main reason why a license is required.

        • +1

          @Russ: Dunno why downvoted, you're correct, you need a license to install fixed cabling behind walls. I'm not sure the reason is what you've stated, although that's probably part of it.

        • @abb:

          Perhaps I wasn't precise enough in my language, I should have said "install in walls" as you pointed out. Or maybe the downvoters don't believe what I said.

      • +3

        340?

        The peak voltage of 240V mains. 240 times (square root of 2)= 339.4, close enough to 340. Also the "240V mains" can be a little higher than 240V, nothing's exact in the real world.

        • Peak doesnt mean much in the real world anyway though?

        • +2

          @richy_o:
          Peak matters when you have cracked insulation, the peak voltage determines how far a spark can jump. If your insulation is thicker than the spark length at the peak voltage, the spark won't form, you'll be (somewhat) safe, at least in dry conditions.

          If the screwdriver's insulation is thicker than the spark length, it's a safer screwdriver than one with insulation thinner than the spark length. This might seem overcautious, but remember it's your LIFE that you are risking.

        • +1

          @Russ: "overcautious" is hardly the term to use when you're talking about working on live mains :P

    • -3

      Something wrong at your place.

      240v or 415v.


      This is goi MG to be a killer. Handymen unite and take on the electrical world.

      Alls theg need is an aldi zoneworks multimeter and they are set.

      • Russ said it best

  • $8.99 for a set? Get screwed!

    • +1

      The OP is getting screwed 6 times this Saturday. Seems to be ok with it as well.

  • +1

    Might be useful for people who like to extract their burnt offerings while the toaster is still plugged in. Apart from that can't see much use for "handymen" who shouldn't mess with things they know sfa about.

    • +2

      Seriously? Try telling an electrical engineer that he isn't allowed to wire his own Powerpoint

      • +1

        An electrical engineer hardly qualifies as a "handyman" but in any case you don't need these to wire a powerpoint if you know what you're doing.

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