• out of stock

Flashforge Adventurer 5M 3D Printer $327.20 (Was $549) Delivered @ Flashforge 3D PRO eBay

380
FLASH140AUMCBT20

Coupons stack to get the same price as previous deal. As it's a different seller, needed a new post.

Not sure if there are excluded delivery areas, but it was free to Brisbane.

Credit to @Cameronol

Also found PLA+ filament for ~$13/kg with the same code.

Related Stores

eBay Australia
eBay Australia
Marketplace
flashforge3dpro
flashforge3dpro

Comments

  • Any reviews on this model. I am interested in getting a 3D printer but know nothing about them, a total Noob.
    Is this something I should look at?

    • +1

      I was in the exact same boat, and from what I've read, it seems like it is fairly plug-and-play…. however, I've only just ordered so hopefully others can chime in!

    • +3

      These are generally well regarded. Possibly the best value 3d printer for this price. The main option everyone recommends is the Bambu Lab A1.

      This should be as noob friendly as you can get besides the a1.

      But honestly at this price, it's a absolute bargain.

    • +1

      It's considered an excellent beginner printer in as far as the setup to good quality prints is a very short journey. I bought one from the previous deal as I was sick of the bed levelling and calibration routines as a noob myself. I mean I can get a reasonable, usable print but I just want to print stuff and not really worry too much about the tinkering with the printer.

      I was almost ready to buy the Bambu A1 when this deal arrived and saw it was quite comparable and delivered great results without much dicking around. In saying that, I will probably print up the parts to make the enclosure but then hope to just print without too much worries and get useable print after useable print.

    • +14

      I'm not a noob - I built my first 3D printer from a kit years ago and have been using it off and on for years. But it was a super manual process, and I got really tired of spending ages levelling the bed and tweaking settings to get a decent quality print.

      I bought the 5M about a year ago in hopes of reducing the level of difficulty and hassle to a minimum, and I'm absolutely delighted to say that it has been a great choice. The very first print came off the bed about 45 minutes after I opened the box, and it was excellent quality and was produced with impressive speed. It really is plug and play, for the pre-loaded models already stored in the printer.

      However, you need to understand that even with all the automatic stuff that makes your life easier, 3D printing still requires some level of knowledge and understanding to get consistently good results. Tweaking the slicer settings to suit the specific print, storing the filament appropriately and even some basic maintenance on the bed and mechanisms are necessary steps. Be prepared to spend a few hours watching videos and learning.

      • That's awesome advice, thanks for sharing!

      • Cheers

    • From all the online forums and videos. This is a fantastic printer that very very very occasionally experiences a small issue or two.

      Also, check this video out. Not a bad upgrade to start off with and learn about printers. But maybe have a couple weeks of months of learning prior to changing

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWafigSeXf8

    • -2

      buy an a1/a1 mini. you will be 1000000x happier

  • +1

    What's the benefit of PLA+ over PLA? I also notice sellers with PLA+2.0

    I guess I will go google it but you specifically linked to PLA+ so I assume you have that as a preference.

    • From what I read, there's no official spec, but it should be "stronger"… I went with what was cheaper as they seemed comparable.

      Sorry I can't speak from experience!

    • I too am wondering the same, Is the extra few dollars' worth spending to get the PLA+ or the PLA 2.0?

    • +2

      I've got a bunch of the jayo pla+ stuff in black and white, it prints basically the same as regular PLA and it does have much more give compared to regular PLA that would shatter, and that's about it.
      I guess the benefit would be pla+ being cheaper from the blend of PLA and most likely cheaper plastic.

      Also on another note the colour of the white is somewhat translucent, similar to esun pla lite I've used before. And the black under a bright light does look a bit brown, not really sure if it's because it's cheap or if it's because it's pla+ and not regular pla. But it's cheap filament and I mainly do functional parts, so colour being super accurate isn't much of a concern to me.

    • +2

      No idea… + Just means 'something' is added.
      I've been printing for 2 years or so and never saw the need to purchase PLA+. For functional things PETG or other 'engineering' filaments will be a better choice than any PLA versions anyway.

    • PLA+ allows for faster print speeds that's really about it

    • +1

      Buy for the "look" you want first imo. If you're new to the hobby take a look at the differences with things like PLA matte, PLA silk, matte PETG (not that Jayo/Sunlu sell that here readily yet, guys like Sidd do). That will make a way bigger difference to whether it's + or v2.0 or 'meta' or whatever.

      After getting more matte PLA and matte PETG over my time with the hobby I look at early rolls of "normal" filament I got and think would've been nice buying those from the beginning lol.

    • I use jayo pla+ mainly, bambu/sidd for colour choice.

      PLA+ 2.0 doesn’t seem any different to me. Pretty much ended up with the same values after tuning both 1.0 and 2.0

  • How do you stack the coupons? If I apply one it replaces the other.

    • ! applied FLASH140AU first then in checkout added MCBT20 and it stacked. Don't forget Cash Rewards

      • +1

        Thanks, when I click the link it seems to have MCBT20 already applied.

        …ok looks like there are (at least) 3 different coupon codes that get added automatically. I got it to work with one of them and had to choose the listing that doesn't explicitly say "AU Stock" (although appears to be the same item, and it's from the official store and both delivering in the same time from the same warehouse in VIC).

        Anyway, thanks!

  • +2

    Cheers Op and thanks for the feedback all, I purchased one. No idea what I will use it for, but it's cheap.

    • +1

      Same bro. Hopefully it doesn't become a dust collector…

      • +1

        Do you like organising stuff? You will find many uses for it then. Gridfinity, honeycomb storage wall/multiboard, customer storage boxes.
        Most of my printing is either home organisation or printing bits to fix things.

  • How big is the prints you do on these was looking to do statue bust type items, the machine itself is it any good as I’m new to such device, where does everyone get the designs from? I have seen a guy overseas make all sorts and he must have a huge machine unless maybe he glue them part together which is more likely, how much is it for the stuff you need to make whatever your make and sorry what is it called, do they last a while or depends on what your making, I take no mess is made when making anything.
    But as said just curious where you all get the designs and do you pay to get such designs or some website that had it all for free.
    As a newbie would this be easy to operate and use as never had one before

    • +1

      Max print size is a 22cm cube. Thingiverse is a good place to start for 3d models.

    • +6

      How big is the prints

      220×220×220mm

      how much is it for the stuff you need to make

      Look up PLA or PETG filament rolls.

      where you all get the designs

      Printables

      Thingiverse

      MakerWorld

      You're asking decent questions but you'll need to do more research on what exactly 3D printing is, how it works, etc. I'd recommend watching some Youtube videos. I like Maker's Muse cause he's Australian:
      3D Printing 101 - Jargon Busting!
      3D Printing 101 Playlist

  • this or bambulab

    • How much money you got? You comparing it to the A1 or P1S/P1P?

      • +1

        Yea a1 mini or a1

        • I think this will be better if you don't intend to get the AMS down the line. If you do, I'd get the A1.

          • @Vavoom: So this can only print 1 colour?

            • +1

              @SS625: Yes, one colour at a time. You would need to manually change filaments halfway through a print to change colours/materials.

              The AMS is a really great feature for specific applications, but it's absolutely a luxury feature you can easily live without. Unless you have a specific application in mind that requires multiple materials, it's a lot of extra money for a function you might not use much.

              • @klaw81: True. Single colour is already good enough. If so. Should I get this? But I feel like bambulab has more support and better software?

                • @SS625: Bambu Lab holds your hand a little better through really easy software, but they also lock down their machines more so you buy more of their proprietary stuff. It's more of an Apple walled-garden approach - they caused a big scandal in the 3d printing community recently by restricting access to their APIs and breaking a lot of 3rd party integrations.

                  I have no hesitation in recommending the 5M, I have one myself and been really happy with it. It does its own calibration and bed levelling to take away most of the more difficult and tedious tasks, and prints really well, and really fast, right out of the box. However, it does have a slightly steeper learning curve.

  • Also bought one so looking forward to back in the game.

    A genuine question, I have anycubic kossel and ender 3 and played around them up to 5 years ago and then not using them anymore as I wasted so much time trying to tune the machine on almost every print. Is there any market value left on these units or they should be in the landfill by now?

    • +2

      There are a lot of mods available for the Ender 3 which help enhance its reliability. Probably the first mod for it should be to run klipper on it. Klipper helps pinpoint what needs fixing on the printer so that you're not tuning blind.

    • +1

      Well they're definitely too good for landfill. If you're feeling generous maybe offer them to a high school so that future gens can learn how to tinker and try out 3D printing?

      • +1

        Will any high schools actually accept printers this slow and not fully functional ? As far as I understand even year 5/6 libraries these days have one or two of those better ones lying on the floor in public schools.

        I remember in particular the anycubic kossel will randomly crushed itself in the middle while printing. One of the three arms will just smash to the furtherest end of one side for no reason.

    • +1

      Just check marketplace and you'll see no shortage of old machines being offloaded (many asking way too much though) so you'll have plenty of competition but might get a few bucks for it.

      I had an old machine from about 6 years ago that was collecting dust, moved on to bigger and faster machines now so gave it to one of my kids friends who had been wanting one. Maybe a blessing, maybe a curse for them. It used to print fairly reliably and hands off so hopefully they just need to learn the basics and it doesn't frustrate them and put them off :D

  • I know it’s prob over kill, but anyone know if these would be ok to print missing Lego pieces?

    • +2

      Yes, I've printed missing Lego pieces and they fit fine.

      • Thanks, bought and a bunch of filament, I guess I have a new hobbie I don’t have time for now lol

      • What material did you print them with?

        • +1

          PETG worked for me as it flexes a bit.

  • As a noob to this, what CAD software would be recommended that is friendly enough to print replacement parts that are rare to find. Is tinker the best one?

    Have purchased a digital caliper and am I’m thinking I need to 3D scan it with my phone and alter the dimensions to suit

    For reference I need a unique bolt and porch light bracket

    • +1

      Tinkercad is decent. I personally like Fusion360 as it's more "pro" but still free. I've made bolts in Fusion360. You'll need to follow a Youtube guide as the process is a little complex but luckily there's a lot of videos on it.

    • FreeCAD is usable and free.

      If you're going to 3d scan the part, the file will be a mesh. Blender is free, friendly and easy for editing meshes.

    • +1

      im using onshape

    • I would recommend Fusion 360 since it's very powerful and free for hobby use, and there are heaps of tutorials for the more complex processes. But there are tons of other options as well.

  • +1

    Afrer reading the reviews and the personal testimonials about the product, ive decided to get one.
    The codes stacked and the price was good.

    I was looking at the creality models as theyre on 'sale' on ebay, without a proper sale. But, this was the ticket.

    Thank you to the OzB community.

  • I also don't know a lot about these but know a fair bit about 3d modelling so I'm curious. Is filament quite expensive?

    • Seems $13-$25+ per kg. I just bought some of the genuine stuff for sub $20 with the discount.

      • "genuine stuff" is what brand?

      • Ah yes, the good "genuine" filament, not the fake stuff

    • +2

      Nah it's not. You get a lot of prints out of a 1kg roll unless you're intending to make something huge like cosplay outfits. What adds up are all the pretty filament colours available, meaning you're gonna need to buy at least one of each, right?

    • Thanks for the insight. And any preference between PLA, PLA+ or PETG as a beginner?

      • +3

        I like PETG for functional prints because it's stronger material-wise. It prints much like PLA too so there's no adjustments to be done. PLA generally has a wider variety of colours and finishes like wood or silk looks.
        More info

      • +1

        PLA+ is the most forgiving out of that list. It'll print successfully as long as the settings are reasonably within range.

    • Filament is very cheap for the basic PLA, PETG etc. If you want to get into more fancy materials, it can get expensive.

  • +2

    For anyone struggling with delivery to regional areas (on mobile app).

    Change primary delivery address to a metro post office (dummy address).

    Add to cart, continue to payment, apply coupons, gift vouchers, etc.

    Change delivery to click and collect at the nearest ebay "hubbed" click and collect.

    Change primary delivery address back to actual address.

  • +4

    Initially thought this image was of a rotisserie chicken. I was excited.

  • does anyone feel suspcious about the seller? it has been used with similar name, same as the last post show OOO, they have a very similar name but different at the end. I ordered mine on Saturday but today this is from another seller with similar name. my item shows it was shipped from China instead of Vic as stated.

    • I think they're both the same seller, it's back in stock on the original link now. Which courier did they send it with?

      • Team global express

        • I got the same tracking number yesterday. Not showing up yet, so not sure where it's being sent from.

          • @yippy: If you look at your order status in the email with the tracking number, you will see the seller's address where was it being shipped from.

            • +1

              @amashun: Yeah that's normal as it's Flashforge's official eBay account, they are a Chinese company. They have a local warehouse where the stock gets shipped from, so unless they run out of stock it should be coming locally.

              • @yippy: Thanks, i hope this is the case, very keen to get my first 3d printer

  • Is this capable of printing very small and thin pieces? I need to print some clock hands and clock face that is 10mm x 10mm. Hands would be no more than 1.5mm width and 4mm and 7mm long. Thin as possible

    • +1

      Yes. Although it's an expensive way to get those tiny hands.

  • Got one of these, love it. Prints fast and doesn't require much tinkering to get good results.

    It is reasonably loud, so I'd recommend grabbing the enclosure kit from AliExpress for ~$65 and printing the necessary parts, really quietens it down.

    Overall at the price I doubt there's anything else as good.

  • Damn, just missed it

  • Back in stock. Just purchased.

    Edit, was other deal as posted above.

Login or Join to leave a comment