• out of stock

PowMr 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery $176 Shipped @ PowMr-Top eBay

160
MCBT20

If you want more than one battery use this listing: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/156283987550 (for 4 they're $163 each)

Specs and such are here: https://powmr.com/products/lithium-battery-100ah-12-8v

As with all cheapie LiFePO4 batteries the specs are a little questionable, it is what it is…

These cheapie LiFePO4 batteries 'seem ok', I purchased a 200Ah one a while back, the capacity seems all good, initial testing using a Victron Smart-shunt to measure things, draining it down to 12v gave me 195.5Ah (12.11v resting voltage, roughly 10%), recharging it to 14v = 199Ah.. (I don't push my batteries to the extremes)

This company sell a lot of solar controllers, inverters and such, I suspect they're like Renogy and they just slap their name on gear made by other companies, but at least they have a name and a lot of sales, unlike a lot of the super-cheap battery sellers these days…

eBay code T&C's: https://pages.ebay.com.au/buyer_coupons/2025/mcbt20/

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closed Comments

  • +1

    Wow, so low.

    Let’s roll the dice, I have been in the market..

  • Excuse my ignorance, but I take it if I had a 240V appliance that draws 600W, this battery could run it for close to 2 hours (notwithstanding battery quality / true capacity discrepancies)? Can you recommend a 240V inverter that would work with this battery? Cheers.

    • +1

      Inverters generally have around 85 to 90% efficiency, so 'close' to 2 hours would be pushing it…

      I have a cheapie Renogy 1000w inverter I purchased on a deal here a few years ago for $170, it's ok, I mainly grabbed it because I had plans of travelling with an ebike and I wanted to use it to charge that, and because it has pass-through, it can be used as a UPS, but I've never really used it for anything other than as a load for testing batteries… (The cables that came with it are very light, I assume they're aluminium so I use my own homemade copper cables.)

      People here on OzB have posted about significantly cheaper eBay inverters, from memory about $120, so hopefully they'll step up tomorrow and make some recommendations ;)

    • +2

      You need to factor in inverter efficiency too.
      Unlikely you would get 2 hours. You wouldn't want to discharge a cheap LiFePO4 to 95/100% discharge.
      Be good to see someone run it through it's paces though, its a damn good price.

      • I assume its BMS would prevent it from going that low .. or is that a bad assumption?

        • +2

          In their specs the 'over discharge voltage protection' is listed as 10v which is very low… If true it's designed for safety, but it's not healthy to drag the battery that low often… As with all cheapie batteries it wouldn't be wise to be bumping off the BMS limits on a regular basis…

          I believe these contain JBD BMS's, it seems all their OEM BMS's have these settings these days…

          • @FLICKIT: Cheers .. how would you know the voltage .. would you need some type of voltmeter rigged up to the battery at all times?

            • +1

              @noz: Yeh, it's always wise to monitor your system, either with a volt meter or a shunt, you generally get a feel for your usage and such fairly fast anyway..

              I run Victron Smart-shunts on my batteries, they come up on eBay deals for around $110, but there's quite cheap chinese shunts around for like $30 I believe…

              A shunt measures the current flow in and out of the battery so you get an accurate measurement of what's going in and out of the battery, and how much capacity you have left… You can use a basic volt meter but lithium batteries tend to hold their voltage for most of their cycle, so relying on just voltage isn't really that accurate…

              • +1

                @FLICKIT: thanks mate, appreciate your solid info (and from everyone else who has replied too).

              • +1

                @FLICKIT: Yup, the Victron shunt is a good investment, the BT function is something else and the ability to monitor 2 separate banks (which I have) is next level forethought. every Victron thing I've bought has been outstanding.

              • +1

                @FLICKIT: Can confirm the cheap Aliexpress shunts work accurately via their monitoring screens, but if you want a very polished app that will keep track of data when you're not watching, victron is probably worth the extra (I imagine, judging by their other gear).

        • +3

          Ebay spec says 10V - that's a typical number but too low imo. Whether the BMS actually does the job is a different matter. Google tests on this brand, they should tell you.

          Teardown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJwdLMl1Vew

          • +1

            @Igaf: I was going to post that teardown vid but the cheapies seem to switch around manufacturers and change designs so often it may not be accurate or relevant now…

            Edit: re-watching that, I'm not a fan of the foam packing design with no real chassis or such, but I do like they have screwed connections on the BMS, intact QR codes on the cells (so not recycled cells), and such…

            • +1

              @FLICKIT: Yeh it is what it is as you say. Price is incredible really if specs are real and probably worth a punt depending on your application. Chinese company looks very solid as you mentioned in an earlier deal iirc. Only reason I didn't upvote is Ebay negative feedback (not on the battery) which says you will get no response if something goes wrong. I certainly wouldn't be relying on the BMS to protect from over discharge though - see below.

              The 2 year warranty claim is garbage, it's really 12 months given the illegal limitations listed:
              Our product warranty is 2 years
              If any problem occurs within the one year warranty period, we provide after-sales support for free.
              If it is more than one year, we also provide after-sales service, but after-sales parts need to be paid by yourself.
              Roflmao, they obviously have no idea of consumer law in this country.

              I just found this spec blurb in a message she (?) sent me late last year : https://flbook.com.cn/c/tI1q15tKCz#page/1
              The specs state BMS low voltage "protection" (not!) is 2.2V/cell or 8.8V! How to kill a battery in quick time if you use an empty and fill regime. For noz's sake: If that's accurate, relying on the BMS to protect from overdischarge would be a huge mistake.

              • +1

                @Igaf: I generally class the warranty for anything off ebay as being the 6-month Paypal protection period, after that, even with Aussie sellers, it's usually more trouble than it's worth trying to chase a warranty claim…

                With batteries, I figure if they arrive and the capacity is good, and they work all good, if they're not abused it's unlikely they're going to die a year later and require a warranty claim…. There is a chance the capacity could drop off fast, but trying to chase a warranty claim for capacity would be a nightmare, they'd just claim abuse or wear and tear…. (this is why I was keen to find a cheaper battery from an established company that seemed to have new cells and not take a risk on possible recycled cells)

                I contacted the PowMr company through their website a while back asking about BMS details, I wanted to confirm it was a JBD BMS, I asked what model it was, and asked about specs, specifically what voltage the balance kicked in, (balance equalization turn-on voltage) , they replied quiet fast and partly answered my questions but they didn't seem too interested and pushed me to contact the seller I purchased from and only get back to them if I couldn't get info from the seller… (knowing what most chinese ebay sellers are like I didn't bother contacting them)…

                I mainly contacted them just to see how responsive they'd be and to confirm the BMS in my 200Ah was much the same as the one in the 100Ah tear down video, I got the model from that video and found the specs here: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/JBD-ZP04S016-4S-12V-l…

                As you mention the 2.2v per cell, 8.8v low voltage cutoff is oddly low, I'm not sure why an experienced company like JBD would set it so low, I figure there must be some logic behind it… It doesn't really bother me because I don't really need to rely on the BMS limits, I don't take my batteries below 12v… But I can understand people off-grid running inverters and such may need to rely on the BMS limits if their inverter doesn't have a low voltage cutoff…..

                The other thing I was interested in was the balance voltage, what voltage the BMS starts balancing the cells.. It seems to be 3.5v = 14v… so the battery should always be charged to 14v with a decent 'absorption duration' I think…. With my 100Ah Daly BMS it starts balancing at 3.2v = 12.8v, so I generally only charge to 13.8 (and lower when the van is stored and I'm not on the road), it balances all good, but it seems a 13.8 charge wouldn't be good on the PowMr batteries if they don't start balancing until 14v….

                One other thing, the cells in the 100Ah tear down seem to be: REPT CB56-104Ah , but I could be wrong…
                https://kingbopower.com/rept-cb56-104ah-3.2v-104ah-deep-cycl…

                (Keep in mind I'm no expert, I'm an electrician amoung other things but when it comes to lithium batteries I'm just fumbling my way through)

                • +1

                  @FLICKIT: Good info, thanks. Balancing is v important for longevity. I agree with your approach to cheapies for non-critical applications.

                  Seems PowMr specs (like low voltage and over current protection) don't match the limited tests available so we need someone like Will P to do a comprehensive review to get a clearer picture.

                  Unfortunately The Solar Squad Naija didn't wait for BMS low voltage cutout in his discharge test but I just noticed this in comments, which might be good news:
                  @67hr74 I recently bought one of these for my battery box to run my older CF 35 Waeco. Im using the same shunt. After 36.25 hours it delivererd 105amp capacity with the voltage cut out at 11v. Im from Australia and am pleasantly surprised by the build quality and performance. Only question is whether it was BMS cutout or @67's decision.

                  For <$200 none of the possible issues we've talked about might matter for many uses anyway.

                  • @Igaf: I hadn't noticed his capacity test vids, he has another one here: https://youtu.be/JTtdMd25__s … At the end he drags the guts out of it and fades the video out at 9v, so it's probably safe to assume the low voltage cut-off is set at 8.8v as per the JBD BMS specs….

                    I 'could' run a test on my 200Ah, but to be honest I have no interest in punishing my $400 battery, lol, I'm more interested in getting a decent life out of it…

                    IMO you get what you pay for with batteries, there's always going to be compromises with a sub-$200 100Ah battery, either recycled or low grade cells, poor build quality, dodgy specs, dodgy BMS, or such… . I wont name any in particular but most the cheapies have obvious issues and limitations…

                    The 100Ah battery in my campervan was kinda middle of the road when I purchased it, it's an Aussie assembled BigWei, new GFB - Ganfeng cells, a Daly smart BMS with BT, in a stainless case, from memory it cost me $550 about 2.5 years ago… It's ok, capacity is good, it's holding it's capacity well after a lot of use, but the Daly BMS is total garbage IMO, it does the job but I haven't been happy with it from day one… The BMS is without a doubt better than what comes in the cheap batteries, some setting can be changed and such, it has some monitoring, but it's a very low end 'smart BMS' with bugs… At the price I had hoped for better, but it is what it is…. (With relying heavily on the battery in my van on long roadtrips I didn't want to take the risk on a bargain basement battery at the time, and the BigWei was at the upper limit of what I wanted to spend)

                    With the PowMr 200Ah battery I purchaseda couple of months back, that's mainly going to be used in a tinny for an electric outboard, and as extra power in the van if I ever need it for recharging the ebike and such, nothing all that important and it wont leave me in the crap if it fails… The way things are changing with batteries I couldn't justify anything better, I figure this battery will probably do me ok until the next generation of better batteries come along…

                    When companies like @MullerEnergy posts deals for his high grade batteries people always complain about the price and compare them to these eBay cheapies, there's really no comparison, but if people want a perfect battery with good features and good support that's just what it costs, you get what you pay for….

                    Anyway, that's enough pointless rambling, lol

                    • +1

                      @FLICKIT: I did watch that video a few months ago, forgot about the low cutout "failure". I also remember your comment about the Daly and lack of ability to change parameters.

                      Chinese LFP battery marketing is bewildering. I don't understand the logic with using supposedly A grade cells and then mating them with an unsuitable BMS when for under $50 more they could get a quality BMS and advertise it as such. Classic false economy.

    • +2

      Roughly 100 minutes counting inverter inefficiency (~80%), and 10-20% less if you stick to the recommended 80/20 or 90/10 DoD strategy to prolong battery life. Depending on the appliance you may also need to know/factor in the appliance startup draw and make sure your inverter's peak power can manage that.

      You want a 12V inverter. There are hundreds to choose from depending on your needs (physical size, power output, pure sine wave, outlets req'd etc) and wallet. Don't use one so can't advise. If you research and pick a couple of possibles make sure you then check reviews. You pay much more for brands like Victron etc. Caravan forums are good starting points.

    • +3

      The best of the best affordable Inverters is CNSWIpower, they are purchased direct from the manufacturer in China and arrive in about 4 days, only cheap brand of inverter that have lasted IME … I live off-grid and mine runs a large fridge that draws 280w running and over 2000w startup inrush current as well as a lot of other stuff when I'm cooking.

      One of the batteries in this add will support a 1000w 12v inverter,

      This guy had a hand in getting the design of the larger units to where they are now and he tests a lot of inverters. one of his 3000w swipower units has years 6yrs of use and still going.

      https://www.youtube.com/@JOHNDANIEL1

    • What is the load and its power factor? (If known)

    • +1

      We really need to stop using Ah's when advertising batteries. Wh's is a much better measure.

  • +1

    Up to 4 in series and 4 in Parallel … 4s4p … that's some decent storage, have heard good things about their controllers.

  • wow this is a good deal for 100ah lifepo4

  • +1

    Here's how my 200Ah PowMr battery ended up:
    https://imgur.com/a/8HOdace

    All a bit rough but good enough.. I'll do a trip with it to make sure it's all ok, then I'll pull it apart and waterproof the Andersons with silicon sealant, and silicon all the screws and such to make it fairly watertight…

    (I considered mounting a DC-DC charger and solar controller in there but room was tight and I don't really want their heat in a sealed box with the battery)

    (Edit: I haven't added fuses or breakers to the Andersons because I have fuses in/on everything that will be plugged into it, I figure the battery protection and 300A mega-fuse is enough for safety, the cabling and Andersons can handle a brief 300A fault current I think)

    • +1

      Super job there. Was going to ask about the 50A andersons. Big enough? They're rated 50A for hot plugging and 120A flow with 6AWG (~4mm) cable.
      Will it float temporarily when you've sealed it up?

      • +1

        Thanks… I've used 16mm2 building wire for the Andersons, that will very easily hand the 120 Amps, or a brief 300+ amp fault current I think… They do say not to use building wire for things like this but I have it on hand (stripped out of old 3-phase armoured cable), it was free, I know it's pure copper unlike a lot of cheap cable, and I've used it for years in my campervan and such without issue… (it's 7 strand x 1.70mm2)…. 16mm2 is a nice fit in the Anderson terminals, and 2 x 16mm2 fit nicely in a 35mm2 lug…

        The black battery cables are fine strand 35mm2 welding cable…

        I may install a 170 amp Anderson down the track if the need arises, at the moment I only have a 1000w inverter that I'm only likely to use for low powered things so the 50 amp Andersons will be fine for now… All my other loads are going to be under 50 amps also…

        A rough calculation of the volume of the box it should have 33kg of buoyancy, so yes, it should kinda float, I'm not sure how long the seal on the box lid would keep the water out though… It'll be strapped into the tinny and it has enough buoyancy to stay on the surface if it gets swamped so I'm not too concerned about that… I mainly just want the box to be splash/spray proof, and so salty air isn't circulating through the box…

        I want to make sure it's all ok and give it a good workout before I seal everything up with silicon… I usually solder my lugs and Anderson terminals but being lazy with this I just crimped them all, when I pull it apart to seal it up I might go through and solder everything also…

        Those 2x flush mount Andersons were pretty cheap, I'm fairly happy with them for the price… 2x doubles for $22: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/396182574616

        (Edit: just double checking, yeh the 16mm2 will well and truly handle the fault current, lol, over 0.5m with 300 amps there's only 3% voltage drop… Unlikely but, I figure at worse with a brief dead short at 300+ amps, the Anderson plug terminals 'may' weld together, but that's not a big deal, they're cheap enough…)

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