Which New Medium SUV to Buy - Budget $50,000

Been a longtime fan of OzB and so thought I'd turn to this community to help me decide what will likely be my largest purchase for 2025

Need to buy a new medium size SUV with a budget of $40-$50k and bit overwhelmed with the amount of choice we have. Am also looking at 2023 or 2024 demo vehicles.

Few things in looking for:

  • AWD as I occasionally go on a few dirt tracks
  • Standard features like CarPlay, dual zone climate control, cameras etc,
  • Would ideally prefer leather seats - easier to clean spills etc with little kids
  • Prefer physical controls for air con

Poll Options expired

  • 112
    Toyota Rav 4 GXL
  • 64
    Mazda CX-5
  • 31
    Subaru Forester 2.5i S
  • 31
    Kia Sportage
  • 30
    Other - if other pls comment
  • 14
    Mitsubishi Outlander Exceed
  • 14
    Hyundai Tucson
  • 12
    VW Tiguan allspice
  • 11
    Nissan X trial

Comments

  • +5

    I would avoid all but the RAV4 and CX5. But I think you should consider more vehicles.

    You should have a look at Volvo Xc40s. They drive awesome, look great and are available with a variety of engines and many are set up in AWD. If you buy one with low kms and only a year and a bit old you could get one still in factory warranty. They are quite reliable.

    • Thanks - will have a look at the xc40 but I think it might be a bit on the smaller side for our needs and I think the xc60 will be out of my budget

      • +3

        2022 I had a look at the XC40, thought it was too cramped space wise. RAV4 was on long delivery times, and the CX-5 was already on the ship so I got that. Very happy with it. I also drive the parent’s RAV4, it’s a bit bigger, but I prefer the ride and comfort of the CX-5 - feels more like a sedan. The heads-up display in the Mazda has totally changed my driving - takes a while to get used to, but everything you need is on the screen in front of you - GPS next turn, speed limit, CC setting, current speed.
        I got the Touring, which has faux suede seats and AWD.

        • Is the gps info on the HUD based off apple carplay/android auto or the in-built Mazda navigation?

          Also fuel economy?

          Thanks

          • +2

            @wmxc: HUD - works off Mazda navigation, or with CarPlay. With Apple it depends on the app - Apple Maps the HUD works, not Google or Waze. I haven't tried Android.
            Fuel eco - currently getting 8.7 average over the last 1500km 50/50 city/country. Less when short run city, as much as 11.5.

          • @wmxc: Yes the 2024 build onwards shows navigation info.

      • +1

        if boot space is an issue, get Subaru Outback.

        I can fit a medium to large sized road bike without taking the front wheel off if i fold down the rear seats.

        • -7

          Can do that in my Skoda

          • @serpserpserp: Gotta be more specific man… Which model of Skoda, etc.

            • -5

              @meong: Octavia. Not sure why you down voted me

              • +2

                @serpserpserp: why do you think i was the one who downvoted you?

                • -6

                  @meong: if you haven't downvoted then can you upvote it?

      • +1

        will have a look at the xc40

        Don't do it, mate. The smaller size will be the least of your problems with it.

      • buy a bitcoin instead, in few years you can buy an airplane.

    • +8

      Volvo XC40? Check out thiis ReDriven episode at 22:54, Adam's worst car of the year for 2024

      • -3

        Very surprising. I test drove one and couldn’t disagree mor

        • +5

          Yeah, nah. Test driving one isn't the same as doing thorough research on a vehicle, identifying and listing common problems (of which there are quite a few for these Volvo donkeys), and seeking an informed opinion from a qualified mechanic, who says it's a problematic bucket of crap.

          • -2

            @CocaKoala: The video discussed only the driving style, and nothing else. Hence why I referenced the test drive.

            FYI I also work in the car industry and have seen lots of these without dramas. I own a few similar Volvos, one of which on the same platform that has been perfectly reliable and an awesome car.

            • @charlierg: You working in the car industry or claiming to have "seen a lot of these without dramas", or owning a few "similar" cars amount no nothing.

              Here's the video outlining everything about this shitbox. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qUexpNRBwLg&pp=ygUFVm9sdm8%3D

              • -1

                @CocaKoala: Yep mate the mechanical section suggests they are generally quite reliable, outlines one particular issue with the manual variant not available in Australia, and lists some other minor issues covered by warranty.

                Much of the rest of the video is very subjective and pertains mostly to quirks and driving styles. And of course, this is just one video. Most other reviews are very positive from what I know.

                Seems as if you’re jumping to conclusions a bit mate?

                • +1

                  @charlierg:

                  outlines one particular issue with the manual variant not available in Australia, and lists some other minor issues covered by warranty.

                  I am not sure if we are we talking about the same video here. This is what I heard the mechanic say:

                  Serious problems:

                  • crank walk - worse in the manual, but I infer that it means it's "not as worse", but still an issue in the auto - (warranty fix)
                  • drive shaft vibrations - requires a whole new set of drive shafts (warranty fix)
                  • drive belt tensioner and drive belt failure - (warranty fix)

                  Less serious problems:

                  • complications with the purge system
                  • chewing through brakes
                  • brake discs warp
                  • front strut pop mounts noisy and creak - (warranty fix)
                  • premature tyre wear

                  Especially given these are pitted against far reliable and proven cars for the same money (some of which the OP themselves have listed), I see absolutely no reason to walk into this minefield given there are known major problems.

                  The support network being nowhere near as good as the major brands could be a factor for many people, which the mechanic also mentions.

                  • @CocaKoala: Right sure, fair enough ignored a couple things that were fairly minor issues in the video.

                    That being said, many of the other vehicles in OPs list are all problematic too to a further extend. Say, the rubbish Jatco CVT in the Xtrail?

                    • @charlierg:

                      ignored a couple things that were fairly minor issues in the video

                      You ignored the less serious problems, yes. But replacing a set of drive shafts, belt tensioners and drive belt are not 'fairly minor issues', all of which you ignored.

                      rubbish Jatco CVT in the Xtrail?

                      I did not recommend the Xtrail, so why do you asking me about it?

      • +2

        We've had our XC40 for about 3.5years and couldn't be happier. Volvo Customer service has also been 10/10

        We are upgrading to the XC60 because of a growing family but will definitely miss the 40!

    • +6

      Volvo Xc40s

      quite reliable

      😅🤣😂😂

      • Have you owned one? People, especially on this forum assume everything European is unreliable. And perhaps that is true for the boatload of flogged BMWs and Mercs on the second hand market.

        But Volvos, especially those on the SPA platform, are generally an exception, especially a new one in a factory warranty.

        • +1

          People, especially on this forum assume everything European is unreliable

          Yeah mate, Volvo is Chinese so your comment is not relevant. I own an euro and a Korean.

          My opinion was on this specific car, and was based on the research conducted by the redriven team and it's indeed a problematic rust bucket that I won't touch with a barge pole.

          You're free to recommend one to someone, just as much as everyone else here is free to tell them your opinion could affect their peace of mind (especially citing research on the car and informed opinion from a qualified mechanic who fixed several of these Chinese cars).

          • @CocaKoala: Clearly uninformed… just because it’s owned by a Chinese company doesn’t mean it’s Chinese? Models, R&D etc has all been done in Sweden…

            It was owned by Ford for a long time, but no one called it an American brand… just like JLR which no one calls Indian.

            • +1

              @charlierg: Sure thing mate, enjoy your Euro luxury.

              Let me know if you'd like to counter against the major issues with the volvo that I raised.

    • +2

      Recommends avoiding the rest of the list, which mostly consists of market-tested and best-selling brands, only to suggest the Volvo XC40 made by Geely?

      • -4

        Yep, because the xc40 is also market-tested, and is more reliable, comfortable and performant than many other options in the list.

    • My mum has an XC40, and man I hate that car so much. So many things about it frustrated me and just didn't work logically. Not a good driving experience at all.

      • That’s fair enough, everyone’s entitled to their own opinion about how a car should work and bits and bobs in the SPA / new Volvos are weird compared to other cars.

  • +2

    Outlander has a 10 year warranty (if servicing within Mitsubishi's network). IMO no worries with "stealership" service pricing either since they have a cheap capped price and the warranty for the rest. The Outlander Aspire is also a good looking option if panoramic sunroof not required - could save you some $.

    • Thanks - will check out the aspire too

      • -2

        Warranty only valid if use their warranty book services. If you not driving as per warranty book you will spend unnecessary for services which will cost a lot for maintaining warranty.
        Example I drove my car 70000km for last 7 years. I should have changed many things at 4th years service to maintain warranty.

    • +1

      You will probably need the 10 yr warranty — Mitsubishi is ranked last in reliability out of all SEAsian car brands, in Australian, USA and UK studies:

      https://www.cardomain.com.au/most-and-least-reliable-car-bra…

    • +2

      I have a 2022 Aspire that I bought new and the capped price servicing is great.

      However, my car has done 43,000km and when I took it in recently for a service they tried telling me that my rear brakes (AND rotors) needed replacing, and that it was critical since they wouldn't make it to the next service. Apparently there's 2mm left on the pads. They wanted $1370 for that.

      I politely declined and will get them checked out by someone else. Seems a bit weird that the rear brakes would go before the front, and after only 43,000km.

      • +1

        If you use the adaptive cruise control a lot, that can cause the rear pads to go before the front. From what I've heard, I only have 2000kms on my Outlander so far.

        • That thought crossed my mind, since it's constantly braking even the slightest amount to slow down 1-2km/hr. Yes I use it a lot.
          I just can't see why the rotors would need doing as well, pads I can understand.

          Anyway, I'll get them checked in the next month or so and go from there.

          • @bonezAU:

            I just can't see why the rotors would need doing as well, pads I can understand.

            Its just the done thing now. Used to make rotors sifferently so they wouldnt wear as much and then theyd machine them smooth if required. These days its just cheaper and easier to replace the rotors. Its often an upsell.

      • +1

        Honda dealership told me the front brake pads would need to be replaced before 60,000k when it was at 56,000k. Coming up on 80,000k and they're still going. I bought brake pads to replace them myself and they've been sitting in the shed for over 3 years lol

  • +14

    If you can get a novated lease I’d pick BYD sea lion 6

    • +1

      Such a small boot. Won't be able to carry much going adventuring.

  • +18

    Only the Subaru is full time AWD. The rest are just FWD cars that occasionally send power to the the rear wheels. You probably only really need AWD as a safety feature for the road. I'm guessing the occasional dirt road you go on also doesn't really require AWD either. AWD cars are generally less fuel efficient. I'm guessing you don't need AWD as traction control, stability control and ABS in modern fwd cars is awesome and almost eliminates the need for AWD in your case.

    At your budget none of the listed cars have leather seats. They are just plastic that looks like leather. Only telling you this so you're not disappointed when you eventually discover this after a few years of ownership. The plastic seats are awesome with young kids so still a worthy option.

    • -2

      The 2024 runout CX-5 will come in leather if you buy now before the "AUD just fell through the floor" price adjustment. They haven't changed anything structural or mechanical in the car in the last decade so model year doesn't matter much.

      I reckon get the base model with fabric and some nice third party seat covers and put the rest into VDHG, cause everything is value engineered and nothing lasts anymore.

      "I'm guessing you don't need AWD as traction control, stability control and ABS in modern fwd cars is awesome"

      And a mandatory feature in the Australian market since 2013. Just FYI.

      • The 2024 runout CX-5 will come in leather

        Only in the top level trims (akera?). Are they less than $50k?

        Otherwise it's Maztex (aka plastic). Just like base model Mercedes - mbtex.

    • +4

      Only the Subaru is full time AWD. The rest are just FWD cars that occasionally send power to the the rear wheels.

      Hybrid AWD in the RAV4 is constantly balancing front to back, left to right. IE on acceleration, it puts more power to the rear.

      Also increases tow capacity to 1.5T

      • +3

        TIL. Cheers

      • +1

        AWD is a big advantage with safety on wet roads, but bearing in mind increased fuel comsumption, it doesn't suit all drivers.

        • Typically yes, but kinda negligible on the hybrid as the rear is electric driven. Only slightly higher fuel use due to the extra weight

        • +5

          Somewhat disagree. AWD is a little advantage on wet roads. Its only usefull when you need to apply power and in most situations you shouldnt need the extra traction. About the only time it is necessary is if you are planting your foot to take a small gap while pulling out into traffic. If you do 'need it' - you probably arent driving to the conditions. AWD is not any help under braking or swerving conditions.

          Had a part time AWD car and it basiclly only flashed the AWD active symbol if i was being a complete clown witg the go pedal.

      • This is not true.
        The rear motor is only activated when needed, due to either front slip being detected, or a high level of power being requested (throttle input, etc.).
        It also has no way to balance torque between left and right beyond utilising the stability control system (brakes), which is a feature that many modern cars employ. It does not have a motor per hub, or torque vectoring differentials to independently drive each hub.

        • or a high level of power being requested (throttle input, etc.).

          Nope, Toyota hybrid AWD works even on slow acceleration, to aid the car in getting up to speed

          And half decent explanation of the system here

          • +1

            @spackbace: I'll take your word for it. I can't watch at work.

            Watch the videos of it unable to drive forward on flat ground when its front wheels are on rollers. It was pretty much the worst "AWD" vehicle result I had ever seen. Similar real-world results can be seen on Youtube for medium-SUV off-road mega comparison tests, where the AWD Rav4 is consistently in the bottom quartile of vehicles. Just save the ~$3k or whatever it is these days and go the FWD-only version. Or buy a Forester if you need real AWD (and clearance, and a full-size spare).

    • I would personally opt for leather if budget allows, it's very easy to keep clean, rarely gets hot (albeit in winter can be cold when you first sit down in your car).

      Subaru's fabric seats are a mesh material that tears very easily — when I bought my last car, I looked at a lot of second-hand cars and frequently found rear seats had rips through them, which is unsightly. I don't know if other carmakers use anything simliar but I have yet to see it.

    • -3

      Tiguan is also permanent AWD.

      • +1

        I thought VW Tiguan used the haldex system?

        • +1

          Whoops. You're right. It's the Touareg that gets a better system.

          "The new third-generation Touareg is also equipped with permanently engaged four-wheel drive (4MOTION). On this model, which is based on the Modular Longitudinal Toolkit (MLB), power is routed via an eight-speed automatic transmission (also standard equipment) designed to accommodate torque up to 1,000 Nm. A lockable centre differential with asymmetric dynamic torque distribution distributes power between front and rear axles. Up to 70 percent of the power available goes to the front axle and up to 80% to the rear axle."

          In practice in off-road tests the Tiguan tends to come runner up to the Forester, ahead of all the competition that all AWD on demand.

          • -1

            @Viper8: Yeah shame VW is going out of business before the end of 2025 so no way you should buy one today. This is coming from a Skoda owner.

            • @serpserpserp: Out of business… They're the 2nd largest car manufacturer after Toyota. Lay-offs and other cost saving measures are common in large corporations, constantly adapting to the market. If they were clearly going out of business, their market cap wouldn't currently be $79B.

              • -1

                @Viper8: Sorry I do mean 2026, forgot what year we are in.

                They aren't going out of business right now, but soon enough, or will be rescued, bought, restructured. Will be a shell of their former selves.

                Also Market cap isn't what I would point to as an indicator of health. Maybe you should consider what their market cap is to their net debt.

                • +1

                  @serpserpserp: They may pull out of Australia, but I don’t see VW going out of business.

                  • @jjno41: Yeah they don't see themselves going out of business too

    • +1

      Yep aware they aren’t full natural leather.

  • +7

    Japanese or korean, hybrid. Test drive. Then just pick the one YOU like.

    You probably don't need AWD. 2wd will get you a lot further than you think.

    • +1

      In addition to being cheaper to buy and run, a lighter 2wd vehicle is going to be more maneuverable on the road and more survivable in a single vehicle accident.

      Any graded dirt road will be fine in FWD in the dry as you're mostly going to have problems with clearance. You'll be surprised by how absolutely useless suburban SUVs with low rolling resistance tyres are in any serious quantity of mud.

      • Quite the opposite, you'd be surprised how much more capable modern awds are compared to their fwd counterparts. People love to crap on them not being real 4wd. This is true, but the gap between true 4wd and fwd is massive and awd fits nicely in there and there are plenty of conditions where this is advantageous.

        There is no way a fwd is making this for example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZg_PIpaVDg

        • Any car, FWD, AWD or 4WD, could get thru that trivial creek & mud example

        • Yes, modern AWD are more capable than FWD. The point is that you dont need AWD for MOST dirt roads.

    • -4

      Japanese or korean, hybrid. Test drive. Then just pick the one YOU like.

      Good advice 5 years ago. Now it is either a Kia or Toyota only. Avoid hybrids unless you want to big repair bills in 5 years time.

      • What big repair bills in 5y?

        • Battery

        • You are buying two different engine systems, cars are heavy as, lots more to go wrong.

          • @serpserpserp: While its true that its more complex, your are pretty unlikely to get a 'big repair bill' in 5 years. Up over 200k km or 10y possibly, but not very likely before then - especially as warranties can go beyond 5y.

  • +6

    Maybe one of the Honda CRV models fits within this budget, and is a pretty recent update https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/887279

    Although your list is all "mid size" there is a pretty big size difference between a few of them. The CX5 for example is pretty pokey inside with a small boot compared to the CRV.

    • Rav4 and CX-5 are both classed as compacts not midsize. CX-5 is 8cm shorter than a Mazda 3 sedan. Rav4 is 3cm shorter than the Corolla sedan.

  • +2

    If the leather seats are just for the kids spills, maybe look at buying leather seat cover. That way you don't have to pay for the leather seats trim.

  • I don't think you can pick a car until you've test driven a few. Specs and recommendations aren't as important as your experience in the car, where you'll be spending a lot of time for the next decade.
    The latest model RAV 4 is probably OK, but 10 years ago I drove a RAV 4 and a Forester on the same day, and the difference was night and day in terms of the driving experience.

    • I don't think you can pick a car until you've test driven a few. Specs and recommendations aren't as important as your experience in the car, where you'll be spending a lot of time

      This. By all means trawl the websites and reviews and get yourself a shortlist. Then go and sit in and poke around your shortlist, then test drive the shorter short list.

      My last purchase followed this method. Had about 6 on the shortlist. Sat in 3 and ruled them out immediately. 4th (which was an initial preference due to brand loyalty) was ruled out after a drive. It just wasnt comfortable. Ultimately came down to 2. Since it was a used purchase i bought what was best fit from the two.

    • and the difference was night and day in terms of the driving experience.

      Very much this. I test drove a Mazda 3 and a Kira Cerato and on paper the differences are explainable, but in person…..

      • Will be doing exactly this coming weekend

  • +2

    KGM Torres

    also why is this asked every few weeks

    • +1

      Because ppl cross shopping a CX5 and a RAV4 don't know anything about cars (or searching ozbargain forums).

      • Yeah they should be getting a bmw x3

  • +1

    Rav4 Hybrid……..is there really any viable competitor?

  • -1

    If you need fuel economy, the Rav4 hybrid. If you want cheap and fun, the Mazda is a nicer drive and the skyactiv engine/transmission on the CX-5 is bulletproof. None of that Jatco trash on other japanese brands.

    Avoid Hyundai, KN, Mitsubishi and Subaru if you care about gearbox failures and unexplained fires. Nissan and Chinese marques should only be rented.

  • +2

    The allspice sounds spicey.

  • Depends.But if you don't churn cars regularly, want a better variety of affordable bling,reasonable service/parts costs,long warranty,proven reliability, go the Mitsubishi.

  • +1

    We brought a Prado in 1990, it still going strong today.
    Its great value, works out to be well under $2000 per year.

    • +4

      Hardly mid-sized though and a fair bit over $50k.

    • 34 years driving the same car? How many km are you doing per year?

      • A bit under 10,000 per year.
        It's great for moving stuff.
        And you can fold the chairs down and sleep in it during long trips.

      • +1

        Maximum respect to that

  • +2

    Haval H6 Hybrid

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