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Cheap pair of smart plugs with energy monitoring at $10 each. Arlec from Bunnings with easy returns is better than Laser which many don't trust. Compact size.
Australian standards approved. 240V 10A.
Mentioned by @djthornton.
Arlec Smart Plug With Power Monitoring - 2 Pack $20 + Delivery ($0 OnePass/C&C/in-Store) @ Bunnings
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or home bridge by any chance?
I have 6 of these, can confirm works with home assistant. Super easy via Tuya.
My HA keeps disabling Power, Current, Voltage entities. Do you have this problem too?
EDIT: I have 10 of them and they all do it.
Never had that problem.
That's strange, I'm also running tuya local as another commenter mentioned and have never had this problem.
If anyone else needs the info to set this up, this video is great resource to understand and get local keys, then following the installation method on the tuya-local github should bring it all together in homeassistant.
Do these work with home assistant?
Yes, via the Tuya integration and probably LocalTuya too.
It may also be possible to make them local-only with Cloudcutter or some other method.
How do they compare to Zigbee ones from aliexpress?
I have no idea, given the massive variety of items available from AliExpress, but the major difference is obviously using WiFi for connectivity vs Zigbee.
This implies a few other things too - Zigbee devices are not inherently cloud-controllable (separate hub or similar required), and Zigbee AC plugs typically contribute to the wireless mesh, which these Tuya plugs obviously can't do.
@jimmy c: You can't hack Tuya itself readily. But there have been ways to flash alternative firmware to bypass Tuya, or modify the way it works.
@jimmy c: With zigbee you actually don’t need to hack anything! So, when you buy zigbee you’re getting a local-network compatible device (providing you have the zigbee gateway already integrated).
I no longer buy wifi plugs, only zigbee with energy monitoring. I’m very pleased with this decision!
You know the Ikea Inspelning are coming?
Not far off now I think.
and Tuya Local which is different again
these can be (or at least 1year ago they could) flashed with Tasmota like shell with OpenBK7231T
I have 3 I flashed, but too rusty to remember how I have done it. Not soldering required. Search for it
The only thing that I had to do is to calibrate power metering with some incandescent light bulb and multimeter, but that is if you want accurate data and not just general info, which was pretty accurate anywaywhat does flashing it enable?
no reliance on Tuya/Tuyalocal, can setup to MQTT
@RangaWal: You see the driver hooks the function by patching the system call table, so it's not safe to unload it unless another thread's about to jump in there and do its stuff, and you don't want to end up in the middle of invalid memory.
What's the benefit of that in the nutshell?
It removes the device permanently from the Tuya ecosystem.
The advantage is that open-source firmware gives the owner full control over access to the device, which has privacy, reliability and response time advantages.
The disadvantage is that cloud connections like Alexa / Google and even the normal app doesn't work any more. You need a dedicated and locally-hosted home automation system like Home Assistant.
Use one of the Tuya integrations.
These are likely to now be Series 3 ones that can't be flashed to ESPHome or OpenBeken without popping open the case and connecting to the module directly anyway. I wouldn't recommend it anyway since you'd have to recalibrate the power measurement chip too.
Power calibration isn't difficult if you have a plug in power meter or another known device with power monitoring. You then just need a couple of resistive loads like an incandescent light globe or a simple fan heater set on a low heat level.
Flashing that requires the opening of the device that is 230V is the real concern.
Why would opening it be a concern? Its just a relay, not a PSU, you arent opening it when its connected live to AC no?
@ShrewdBargin: That's the one. I don't want to open any of my sonically welded gear and stick it back together, I have some standards. Screws I have no problem with.
These work really well with both Alexa and Google! Seemless
i got the white 4-pack July last year
3 died 15 months later (capacitor issue, powers on and off) and the last one soon aftercomments from the last deal echoed something similar….not worth your time with the amount of time you will be spending going back to bunnings for replacements/refunds
have a couple running aquarium lights and still running strong. But I guess it depends how often you turn off/on, which may show a similar issue on other brands too. But some may be easier to repair
similar problem my end. Massive pain when they're out of easy reach to have to replace.
What were they powering?
Nuclear power plant
Ahh the infinite power trick.
Did Bunnings replace/refund?
Amazon refunded me a few of my TP Link KP105/115s.
Waiting on a TP Link P110M deal or maybe I'll try out the new IKEA ones.
Are the IKEA ones fat?
Ha. I've noticed similar happening on high power devices.
I wasn't sure what was happening.Were you able to fix the issue?
Seems to work fine on low power devices.
I had issues when using with a pool pump (1000w) but it was fine on an aquarium heater (25w)
I bought the Beelite Smart Plug 16A off aliexpress and have used it on a pool pump for years now with no issue. Unfortunately I just checked and it doesn't seem to sell anymore, but all these products come from the same factories so I'm sure if you found a well rated one on aliexpress it'd be fine.
The issue with the pool pump isn't really that it is 1000W, but that it is an inductive load that can have a higher current draw to start with and even some reverse voltage on shutdown. Other challenges with using these on a pool pump can be the high heat around device from sun light on enclosure or lack of ventilation. I also found that the power plugs could come lose through expansion and contraction, with the result that there was some arching around the socket. I eventually used cable ties to hold them together better.
oh dang. i had hoped it was only Tapos that had the death sentence. hopefully my laser ones are okay.
I've had one hooked up to the EV charger. No issues here and it's a pretty intense work out for it (I think).
I've had similar issues with all these rebadged Tuya units. Switched to these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005636484995.html?spm=a2… and haven't had any issues. The 16AMP rating seems to give a bit of headroom to avoid any overloading issues.
Thanks for sharing. Looks like still tuya? Do they happen to block a second socket? Seems to be some very conflicting reviewe feedback.
They're ZigBee, so you can completely bypass Tuya if you have a Home Assistant setup with a ZigBee receiver.
@dontpanic: I only use tuya. Not a fan of home automation in general other than select few power points :D
You can't fit two side by side in a typical dual socket. Anything larger than your typical round power cord plug probably won't fit either.
Why are all the reliable ones not slim? 😢
For me with Zigbee2MQTT and HA I find the AU version of this:
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS011F_plug_1.html#tuya-t…
Tends to power off in the middle of say washing machine loads. Could be the draw is too high I guess. Only on a 10amp circuit though…
Take a look at the ones I linked above - they're 16A rated and I've used them to monitor high draw appliances like coffee machines, washing machines, PC rigs, etc.
I have had several die as well. Across brands including from bigw and binglee (same things just different brands). Whatever dodgy factory in china makes these clearly has no quality control.
Me too - I bought 3x Mirabella with dual usb ports 2.5 years ago and 1 recently died. Since it was over 2 years ago, I just threw the Mirabella one away.
I also bought 2x Connect SmartHome Smart Monitoring Wifi Plug CSH-PLGP a year ago and 1 died. I complained to Connect and they havent responded…
Thanks! Was going to order but changed my mind after seeing this.
My lone Arlec GridConnect smart plug with energy monitoring recently died after about 2 years of use, with the infamous click of death.
And I've now had a total of 3 TP-Link Kasa and Tapo smart plugs die on me as well after a similar time period, outside warranty (I have about 12 of them in total). I am truly sick of this problem, is there an affordable smart plug brand out there which doesn't die after 2-3 years of use?
I'm also worried about if they die with the click of death that they don't end up damaging the device on it with the repetitive power cycling.
Yeah this is my main concern as well. When my Arlec GridConnect died, it was power cycling my modem router every 20 seconds or so, and had been doing that for about 2 hours before I got home and discovered the problem.
One of my TP-Link Kasa KP115 plugs got into a fail state where it was power cycling my TV once per second, but luckily it happened when I was home and I was quickly able to unplug it.
Seems to be pretty common with blown capacitors
how much did you buy for?
I bought 4 at different times for table lamps (non-nuclear). Three died just after one year.
Yeah same, all 5 that I've bought have done this - absolute garbage. Back to TP-Link
Could you turn on a PC with these?
Yes
Is it safe? I assume if my PSU is lower W than the total load allowed it should be fine?
What PC we talking about sorry ?
These are rated for 10A, which is what your outlet is rated for. If your PSU is pulling more than 2.4kW then that must be some PC.
Could you turn on a PC with these?
You could supply power to the PC with one of these. And switching off the smart plug would definitely turn off the PC (albeit without shutting down, which is not good practice).
However, turning on the relay is unlikely to also cause the PC to boot up without additional hardware and/or programming. Usually, you will need some kind of device connected directly to the PC's motherboard or case switch to trigger booting.
Is there any possible harmful thing to just keep it plugged and use it read wattage instead of turning it on and off from there
That should work just fine
BIOS settings generally have a setting to power on automatically if power is lost then restored.
You want a fingerbot if you want to remotely turn your pc on or off.
With this you'd need to short your on switch on mobo to have it turn on when power is switched on.
Or just use wake on lan
Or just set to power on after AC loss in bios lol
This is exactly how I automate powering on my PC for WFH.
Has worked perfectly for over a year now.
Some BIOS's have a Wake Up function upon an AC power loss or OFF state (usually laptop models) - you could potentially tinker with this option in correlation with the smart power plug - but definitely not really a "stream line" workflow.
Alternatively, you could get something like the Silverstone ES03-WiFi module that plugs directly into the power jumper switches in your motherboard. The module can then be managed via the Android / iOS app as well as your voice assistant.
If you're running Home Assistant, just make sure you're not running on the PC your restarting, or else this may not work…
You'd be so much better off by using a Wake on LAN function.
If you're running a computer that needs access to 24/7 (i.e. a server), the power on after power loss function is useful to ensure minimal downtime in the event of power loss. WOL is a good backup option.
You might find a better solution with wake on LAN
https://www.howtogeek.com/764943/how-to-enable-wake-on-lan-i…
You get smartphone apps that will send the wakeup packet.
How does products from Arlec compared to HPM? I thought they were home brand of Bunnings for a while.
About the same - budget brands mainly aimed at everyday shoppers
How slim are these as compared to TP link or Tapo? Do they block other plug if you try to use it with dual plugs plate
No blocking - easily plug two side by side.
Are these slimmer than Meross? Meross is so fat (68mm) I have to sacrifice the next power point. IMO the dimension design of Meross is ridiculous
Width 45mm
Height 60mm
Length 55mm
Can fit two nicely side-by-side. Have it this way in almost every room.
How is the app for energy monitoring? Does it have daily/monthly graphs like tp link/tappo?
Not great. From what I recall it doesn't graph well (or at all) and had to go in and out of menus to refresh live usage… but might of been a software update since then. The TP-Link Tapo is a LOT better for energy monitoring.
I have 11 of these using HA on various high and lower power devices. They've been working rock solid for the last 3 years, haven't had 1 break yet.
is that using tuya local?
Tuya cloud
Are these basically black versions of the Crest Big W ones?
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/777536
Pretty much. Both being Tuya based they're probably made in the same factory; even the shell's curve radius look the same.
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Do these work with home assistant?