[NSW] DIY LiFePO4 Battery Workshop 10am 17/11/2024: $555 for 12V 105Ah 150A, $1499 12V 314Ah 250A @ Muller Energy

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Given the success of the last workshop, we've decided to hold another one.
While the feedback we got from everyone was very positive, we've learnt a few lessons, meaning that this workshop will be even better.


We're offering a guided DIY workshop for anyone who might be interested in building a LiFePO4 battery. The workshop will be held at our warehouse in Somersby (just north of Sydney, near the now blue dinosaur on the freeway) on the 17th of November at 10am.

All cells we use are EVE automotive grade (the highest grade there is, directly certified by the supplier).

The 105Ah kit includes 4x 105Ah 3.2V LiFePO4 cells, a 150A JBD smart BMS with Bluetooth, epoxy boards to separate the cells, as well as bus bars and bolts.
If you were to buy all the bits separately on our website, it would cost you $759.50.

The 314Ah kit includes 4x 314Ah 3.2V LiFePO4 cells, a custom 250A Muller Energy smart BMS (made by JBD), epoxy boards to separate the cells, as well as bus bars and nuts. The special feature about this BMS is that it's the only one in the world that can control a 5A active balancer. An independent review of it can be found here.
This BMS also comes with a Bluetooth dongle, a 5A active balancer and a touchscreen.
If you were to buy these components separately on our website, it would cost you $1,755.
As a bonus for this kit, we'll also be offering new ABS brackets to secure and protect the cells, free of charge (as in no cost, the battery will have plenty of charge πŸ˜‰)

So as you can see, there's a decent saving to be had here, plus a free workshop.
Consumables such as ring terminals, tape, hot glue (if desired) is also included in the price.

You can BYO tools and PPE if you want, otherwise, we can provide it for you.

As always, please feel free to ask any questions either on here, via email at [email protected] or over the phone on 0493 274 334.

Ruben πŸ™‚

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Comments

  • Is that less than 50c/wh?

    • +6

      The 105Ah kit comes to $0.41/Wh.
      The 314Ah kit comes to $0.37/Wh.

      This is based on the rated capacity, the actual capacity of the 105Ah is actually around 112Ah and the 314Ah is actually around 330Ah, so the cost per Wh is slightly lower than what I quoted.

      • +2

        exciting.

        • +31

          Looking forward to seeing you in November, though I'll make sure to provide you some additional supervision, given your username. 😁

          • @MullerEnergy: Good call! I'm looking to move devices like fridges on batteries which charge driving the middle of the day during free OVO electricity.

  • Is this sort of battery applicable for home use? Or more for campervan type thing

    • +1

      I use my LiFePO4 in the car for camping. It has also come in handy for unscheduled power outages at home to keep my laptop and phone charged as I work from home.

      I was also thinking of a DIY battery myself, installing into a slim case: https://www.fpv-power.com.au/products/abssmallslimlinecase but decided to just go cheap off the shelf at this stage. The cheap slim off the shelf ones seem to be pouch cells though, so I'll see how it lasts. Might still go a DIY in the future.

      • It has also come in handy for unscheduled power outages at home to keep my laptop and phone charged as I work from home.

        how did you make that? have you got a case with a usb-c PD outlet?

        • +2

          If you were to come and build one, I'm happy to throw in a free 83W (18W USB A and 65W USB C) socket that can charge a laptop with only a USB C cable.

          • @MullerEnergy: believe me I'd love too…but I'm a bit far away

            • @M00Cow: This works. Or something as simple as this or this with any charger of your choosing.

              • +3

                @m9: I like the first one, but my personal preference is not to use cig sockets for anything remotely high power, as they often make poor contact and can get very hot, so your first link is probably the way I would recommend.

                • @MullerEnergy: Yup I agree. Second option is more for ad hoc laptop/phone charging in a blackout. That cig socket will handle that charger example fine but I get your point.

              • @m9: Cheers. The neighbours were complaining when we had a 12-hour power outage that they had to go to work an hour away. But a LiFePO4 Battery, + PD outlet + 4g/5g modem would get them out of a pickle for well under $1k, they could easily get solar panels to charge the battery too.

                There you go @Muller Energy there's something for your workshop.

                • +1

                  @M00Cow: Speaking from experience in SA, after about 12 hours or so the battery backups in the phone towers run out too so you can’t use 4G/5G.

        • I attach an Inverter to the battery.

    • +1

      It's for most 12V applications.
      Generally people use them in vehicles or offgrid locations (including while camping).

    • I have used similar cells (302 AH) for my home battery. Need a 16 cell BMS if making a 48V (60V) system.

    • Could be. I like the idea of using something like this for outdoor lighting, or opening&closing a gate . A bit oversized, maybe, but when you factor in how much it would cost to have an electrician wire in 240, it's basically the same, and then in an emergency you have the option to cannibalise it for parts.

    • I built a 60kWh home battery using EVE cells connected to a 3-phase 15kVA inverter.

      • how much did it cost you? just the battery?

  • -4

    (just 100km north of Sydney….)

    • +2

      Depends how you look at it!
      It's 50km (as the crow flies) from the Sydney CBD, but only 15km from the very outskirts of Sydney.

      I guess we'll say compared to the size of Australia, it's very close to Sydney. πŸ˜‰

      We've had two people fly up from Melbourne for the workshop and one drive up from Yass.

      • Curious how they brought it back to Melbourne given it significantly exceeds allowable limits on planes.

        • +4

          They flew back, leaving the batteries here. We then shipped them as a Class 9 dangerous good via road/rail.

  • -1

    Do you compress the cells in your kits when building the battery?

    • +1

      In the kits, no. We do recommend restricting them by putting them in a reasonably strong case, but in my opinion, if you have bloated cells, there's some sort of other issue at play. Either you've been discharging your cells way below what's acceptable (which a decent BMS would stop) or you have cells that weren't great to start with, or there's some other problem.
      So it's fixing the symptoms but not the cause.

      We don't compress our cells in our batteries either (though they are restricted) and we've only had one single battery with bloated cells ever, but this was because the cells were completely discharged a few times (I can't remember the reason, whether it was a faulty BMS or something else, as it's a few years ago now).

      • -1

        I am asking as EVEs specs on those batteries are based with compression as per their datasheet. Their expected cycle life goes down without compressing them.

        • +4

          You are correct. Technically at least.
          It's similar to storing your batteries at 100% SOC. They won't do quite as many cycles as if you're storing them at 40% SOC. However when people ask me what SOC to store them at, I always tell them 100%. The reason for this is the insane amount of cycles that these batteries can do. You can get 6000+ cycles out of these. If you do everything wrong, you might still get 2000 cycles out of the battery. So for a customer that cycles the battery once a week on average, that would mean that the battery would last for 40 years (obviously I'm not saying the batteries will last 40 years, I'm just trying to make a point).

          So whether it's storage SOC or compression, I feel that in practical terms, it makes little difference to the vast majority of users. Not only that, but even then, compression is more about edge-case scenarios with high discharge rates.
          I've actually opened a BYD Atto battery and the cells in there weren't compressed. I know they're BYD not EVE, but fundamentally it's exactly the same chemistry.

          I feel it's a little bit subjective as well. There will still be people who will say you absolutely need to compress. I won't directly disagree with them, but I'll share my views as above.

          • -1

            @MullerEnergy: I was baiting you to see if you will defend your stance and say compression is a waste of time. Thank you for your honest answer. You are absolutely correct.
            ps: is there a 16s version of your balancer planned for release some time in the future?

            • +1

              @jastreb: All good, thank you!

              We were thinking of running a 48V workshop, but if we do, we might restrict it to people that have some experience with batteries and/or electronics given that the level of risk is a lot higher with 48V than 12V.
              The other difficulty is weight. Depending on what capacity battery people are building, it does start to get quite heavy. 100Ah should be manageable, but 300Ah, you're looking at close to 100kg, so these would be better built in situ.

        • -1

          just buy a whole DIY 12v kit inc box from EEL batttery.

  • So wish that I had a good use case for something like this - exactly like the kind of nerdtastic event that I'd love to attend but have been fine with small packs using a handful of smaller 18650 cells and Aliexpress balance charging PCBs.

    • If that ever changes, let me know. πŸ™‚

  • Can these cases be stored in a green house safely (high humidity and -2C to 47C max) to power some green house fans or heater at night?

    thanks.

    • Yes!

      The BMS has low (and high) temperature disconnect so it will not charge below zero, but once the temperature rises, it will.
      Discharging won't be a problem though, as it's fine to discharge up to -20C, which for Australia, thankfully isn't an issue.

  • This looks like a fun and informative workshop, but I can not justify buying such expensive batteries without a use case. You don't happen to offer some newbie electronics courses, do you?

    • +4

      Sorry no. At the end of the day, while we like to do a spot of philanthropy here and there, we're still running a business.

      However, if you wanted, I'd be more than happy for you to come for an hour or so and you can give me a hand building/fixing a battery. Might be a win-win that doesn't cost anything and I get a little bit of free labour.

      • Can I put my hand up for this too? Happy to help out :)

  • +1

    Perhaps should be a safety warning…. playing with lithium batteries can be addictive…especially if combined with stand alone solar (regardless of whether you are also grid connected) or motorhomes/ mobile camping… especially mixed with a bit of DIY.

    Fortunately playing with LiFePO4 batteries allows you to keep the flames in your barbeque instead of your equipment… apart from incredibly rare exceptions.

    Buying quality components (particularly batteries) will save you a lot of money over time, if you get addicted to standalone solar benefits. Speaking as someone who has bought quite a number of batteries of different chemistry types over the last 14 years… most of them I'd rate as either barely adequate or less during ownership.

    While it is cheap to start with 12volts… there are drawbacks including high current demand (thus thick wiring requirements) under loads. 48 is a wonderful voltage, but be aware of the dilemmas of series connecting 12v lithium batteries, resulting in no cross battery balancing. Batteries built for the voltage you require, with internal balancing, are ideal.

    And if you like playing with stuffs… good new batteries, and dirt cheap solar panels off house roofs (when no longer required of course!), are an ideal combination.

  • Please, I really want a workshop like this in Adelaide!

  • I built a battery using this BMS and 8 cells (bought from China) to use in my motorhome. The BMS is really good and will do 250 Amps (if for some reason you want that much). It should in theory be able to run anything you can plug into a standard power point (via a 3000 watt inverter). Finding an inverter that can reliably do that is another issue.

    Yes you could do this cheaper by doing what I did (buy cells from China), but there are drawbacks. A terminal on one of my cells had a broken weld and it was a hell of a job (involving a credit card chargeback - and I still don't know the outcome of that) to get them to send a replacement cell and that one is not as good as the others (294Ah vs 310-313Ah). So I'm faced with using a dodgy cell either way - bad terminal, or lower capacity.

    If you want a battery as good as any ready made you could buy with a great spec and you don't quite trust that you can DIY - this workshop would be a great way to do it.

    When comparing the cost there are the cells, the BMS and not insignificant - the wiring for it and the crimping tools. If you want to do a really good job, there are a few specialist chargers and testers that most people would not have.

    • What company did you buy from? The warranty trouble doesn't sound good. Feel free to PM if you don't want to name them in public.

      • EEL Battery. Avoid. I'm not the only one that's had trouble from them. The problem is buying from China the only way to claim a warranty issue is to send the cells back, which being lithium as well as Aus to China is not feasible. It's only if you happen to strike a good rep at your credit card company you have a chance of some comeback, but most would want you to send them back too.

        • If that one cell had been the same as the other 7, I'd have been very happy, but it's not the 90+% of good sales, but the small percent of ones that have issues and, more importantly, how the company handles them, that is the measure of the company. That's where buying from China is risky, because for them to fix problems is expensive so they are hesitant to do it. Some haven't realised that once word gets around that they don't stand by their products, their whole market can dry up. Of course then they just rebirth the company.

        • Exactly, if you buy cells from an Aus reseller, at least there's some peace of mind.

          • @rookie317: Or you could buy a few spare cells when ordering from China and still save a lot. Most local stock is close to double the price ex China unfortunately.

  • +1

    Excellent idea, wish similar in Vic.

    • yes, open a branch in VIC and I promise to attend

  • Is there any chance a 24V/48V kit course will be offered in the future?

    • +1

      If the date suits you and you want to build a 24V battery, you'd be welcome to attend. I'd just have to prioritise the 12V batteries, so it might take you a little bit longer to finish than them.

      • Thank you for accommodating. I just want to clarify, will the kit components be different given it's a 12v BMS?

        • +1

          Yes, it depends on what you're after. We've got a 200A BMS for 8s and we've got our own new BMS (not yet on the website) that's 300A (but we'll advertise it as a 250A BMS), so it depends on what loads you'd be running. We could also do 105Ah cells or 314Ah cells, obviously you'd need 8 instead of 4. So if you can let me know your preferences, I can let you know the price.

          • @MullerEnergy: I intend to off-grid my pool pump/heater which can pull at most 6KW, most of the more economical off-grid inverters are 48V so I was hoping that's an option.

            • +1

              @rookie317: Maybe send me a message at [email protected] and we can take this offline, because I feel like there might be a bit of discussion needed.

  • What case/enclosure to use for these?

  • @MullerEnergy Any chance of live streaming this so those of us not nearby can join in? :-)

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