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dé Pow Portable EV Type 2 (3.5kW, 6m, 10A to 15A Adapter) $172.95 Delivered @ dePow Amazon AU

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Experience the freedom of electric driving with Depow's portable EV charger 10A and 15A plugs. Designed for Australian Electric vehicle owners, our compact and powerful charger lets you charge anywhere. No more range anxiety. Simply plug in and recharge your electric car effortlessly.

【Fast Charging】Level 2 (Type 2) connector to Electric Vehicle Charger Australia 15A plug and 10A adapter for typical home socket. Adjustable current at 6A/8A/10A/13A/15A.
【No Installation Required】Charge your Electric Car wherever with access to AU 15A socket (set current below 15A), or use a EV car Charger 10A to 15A adapter when AU 10A socket at your choice (Please set current below 10A on the charger). 6m total length makes it easier to reach your parking place.

This is the all time low on Camelx3. There is a criticism to this charger and others if you use the included 10a tail, you have to manually set the charger level down unlike the Tesla UMC which detects and does it automatically. Could be a safety hazard.

There is a newer rectangular model by De Pow that is cheaper.
https://amzn.asia/d/hGEswSl
Not sure what the difference is. If anyone knows, please comment.

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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closed Comments

  • +2

    Beware of cheap chargers that don't comply with Australian standards. You might save now but lose when insurance fails to pay out for your car and your house
    https://www.drive.com.au/news/electric-car-fire-inside-austr…

    • Looks like they used a travel adaptor, which is dumb. That adaptor was probably an Ali express under-rated adaptor and melted! Not cool. They recommend to never ever use any kind of extension cable for the same reason

      • Nothing wrong with an extension chord, as long as you use one that is suitable.

        These EVSE's are just a normal powerpoint with a fancy switch. Ie. they just supply AC power.

        So an extension chord is no different than the cable that runs through your house (as long as it's rated correctly).

        The biggest issue is the Powerpoint itself. How good is the connection between plug and socket? How well has the sparkle wired in the connection at the back.

        I've melted 3 plugs. Each were from a bad socket.

        This is the thing that needs to addressed the most with these things.

        To keep it simple, if you didn't personally wire in your GPO (Powerpoint) never use 15A.

        • Nothing wrong with an extension chord, as long as you use one that is suitable.

          Yup, those thin little things with 1mm² conductors from Bunnings aren't great for long runs.

          Something with 2.5mm² copper conductors like this, which is usually used with welders, is a lot better. It needs a 15A socket though.

          • @eug: Yep, I've got some old ex welder extension chords that were thrown out (someone filed the earth pin). I use it 99% of the time in the 6 -8 amps range. Obviously works fine.

            That being said, I had a "thick" looking chord from Mitre 10 that got warm. It was all insulation, no copper. Conversely got a cable that appears super thin, but doesn't get remotely warm. Made in the sub 80's.. so lots of copper.

            So I do understand the general "no extension chords" rule with many rubbish chords out there these days.

      • Doesn't apply for this.
        One you're referring to was used via a travel adaptor, as it didn't have an Aussie plug on it.

      • Why they don't allow extension cord? Isn't it just lowering charging kWh so slower to charge?

        • Most cheap household extension cords / power boards are not rated for such a high amount of amps (current). They'll heat up / melt / burn = fire.

          You can buy higher rated extension cords, but I doubt the typical average joe would know this.

    • Agree - good call out. Best way to keep it simple is to just look for the RCM.

      I've never understood why all these Amazon/eBay sellers can sell these things freely - I thought that Australian regulation requires the RCM to be present. Is it just lack of enforcement? Or am I mistaken on the regulatory requirement?

  • +4

    https://www.drive.com.au/news/electric-car-fire-inside-austr…

    An electric vehicle has been decimated by fire in Melbourne's east, with fire crews warning about the dangers of not using official manufacturer charging equipment.

    Investigating the blaze, Fire Rescue Victoria determined it had been caused by an aftermarket cable being used to charge the car, which was also plugged into a travel adaptor at the time.

    You've got to laugh. Charging an EV using a travel adapter.

    • Yep, as dumb as using an extension cable. Major fail

      • +5

        look at the instructions for THIS product!

        or use a EV car Charger 10A to 15A adapter when AU 10A socket

        They're telling you if its only a 10A socket its OK to use a 15A to 10A adapter to plug it in. How stupid is that.

        Danger! Danger!

        • I'm still undecided and haven't bought yet. Not sure what the difference is with the new rectangle shape one from the same company.
          I have a 15a socket at home and don't intend to use the 10a tail so will be ok for me.

            • +2

              @GordonD: I agree it should be the manufacturers responsibility to design it to protect the public from themselves and not include the 10a tail in the package.

              • +1

                @myotherac11: Sorry, I accidentally unpublished.

                If you don't do something stupid, you won't have a problem.

                But are you sure you know what would be stupid? Are you sure the people selling you this product do? Because they clearly don't because they are telling buyers its OK to plug a device that can draw up to 15A into a 10A outlet through an adapter. So you have to wonder about how well designed their product is.

                • @GordonD: Cabling in Aussie houses are the same for 10A or 15A…. But…

                  They were never really designed for 15A continuous. So you should never use more than 10A continuous unless you update your cabling (say 4mm min).

                  • @tunzafun001: Depending how the cable is run, 2.5mm2 could be fine. I don't have any insulation in the garage and the DB is on the garage.

        • They're telling you if its only a 10A socket its OK to use a 15A to 10A adapter to plug it in. How stupid is that.

          They do tell you to set the charge current to 10A or below if you're using the adaptor. The problem is people don't read instructions and end up needing to be protected from themselves, much like people who use a double adaptor to plug 2 heaters into one socket.

        • +1

          Yes!! Thought I was seeing things

          the tail adapter is a 15A Socket going 10A plug (so 15A plug can connect to the 10A installed wall socket - Very Illegal Against Australian Regulations.

          AVOID AT ALL COSTS

  • https://www.frv.vic.gov.au/aftermarket-charging-lead-and-tra…

    Might have been the travel adaptor and after market lead that was the cause of the fire?

    • Yes. It wasn't that it was an EV. It was that the idiots used a travel adapter to plug in an electrical device that drew a lot of current for a long time.

  • Not sure what the difference is. If anyone knows, please comment.

    22% smaller, according to the advert. Probably not significant if using it as a semi-fixed home charger. Potentially handy if you were going to use this portably (for travelling, etc).

    • These are just AC power switches (relay / contactor). They aren't "chargers" of any kind, we just call them that.

      You can get them that small they fit inside the handles if you want (so no 'box' at all).

      The "box' is normally for things like power metering, usage log etc so need room for an LCD screen. If it doesn't have that, then it's a Chinesium box of space.

      • Yes, I know.

        we just call them that.

        Hence why I called it that.

  • -1

    Why is an extension lead included… this does not look safe at all!

    • for 10a plug. Why neg for that?

    • +1

      No issue with an extension lead, as long as it is rated correctly.
      It's no different than the wiring going through your house.

  • I've been using one of these for 3 months now, just charging at home. Works pretty well, I don't use the supplied extension cord (it's too short, but it's thicker than most extension cords). I use a 15A caravan extension cord for the extra length.
    I like being able to reduce it to 10A when I'm charging it for long periods/overnight for safety. A lot of people in the reviews have said that it resets after a while and they need to change the settings, but mine hasn't had that issue.

    • With the right chord… no issue.. but if there is any form of heat..then you are losing efficiency. Chosing 15A via an extension chord is likely to use around 20% more power.

      So stick with <10A whenever you can.

      I charge over night at 6A.

      Good for the cabling, good for the power point, good for the battery..good for your wallet.

      • Is that true? I'm sure I read the slower you charge the greater percentage loss due to AC-DC conversion and battery management overheads.
        Either way I'm sure it's not significant enough to worry about

        • +1

          Definitely.. some good data analysis on the PHEV forums.

          Basically, the less heat you generate, the more efficient it will be.

          So either charge slower, or get 6mm or more cabling, keeping as short as you can, from your mainboard to the car. Hard wire it (a standard GPO plug will get warm above 10A).

          My garage is a 25m cable run with 2.5mm cable. Try to keep it under 8A.

          • +1

            @tunzafun001: Overly simplified.

            1kw of heat over 2 hours is the same as 2kw of heat over 1 hour energy wise.

            EV people are the worst when they try squeeze every ounce of energy out of something.

            Drive 90km/h in 110 zone to save energy too?

            Turn off AC in 40 degree heat and roll windows down?

            Just enjoy the damn thing for what it is. I charge at 15A between 12-6am for the 8c rate. I'm not optimising this any further as I have better things to think about.

            • +1

              @eddyah:

              1kw of heat over 2 hours is the same as 2kw of heat over 1 hour energy wise.

              Just nitpicking here, but that's also oversimplified and misses out the key point. :)

              The power loss formula is P = I²R. That means power loss is proportional to the square of the current, so doubling the current will quarduple the power loss.

              That is why charging at 15A on a 1mm² Bunnings extension lead can lead to fires, not to mention lower efficiency as a lot more power is being wasted as heat.

              The solution is, as tunza says, is to charge at a lower current, upgrade the wire size, and keeping the run short to reduce cable resistance.

              EV people are the worst when they try squeeze every ounce of energy out of something.

              Don't worry, it's only a small percentage of EV users who are like that, much like hypermilers with petrol cars. All my EV friends just … plug it in.

              • @eug:

                The power loss formula is P = I²R.

                Fair, but realistically counting and optimising for power loss is a useless exercise for the effort. There's losses all over your home and you're overengineering a problem that frankly isn't one.

                If you own an EV, it's far better to change your driving style to reduce your kWh usage (or get a smaller, more aerodynamic car with built in efficient power train).

                You might lose 1kWh of energy from heat overall - @ 8c so what?

            • @eddyah: Uncle, is that you?

            • +1

              @eddyah: Somewhat a juxtaposition to be posting such a thing on Ozbargain..

              If it was "save 10% on a charging giftcard"..it would get a thousand upvotes in 5 minutes .

              • @tunzafun001: I'm in favour of a bargain, but I think if you're filling water tanks from a council tap to use at your home, you're optimising for the wrong problem.

                There's sensible and then there's silly. I know where I draw the line.

    • Any recommendations for good cables? Also can use normal 10A GPO with 15A extension cord (noob question)? Thanks

      • +1

        This is a decent 10m extension lead. You will need a 15A GPO though. You can get a sparky to swap out an existing double GPO with a single 15A GPO if they think the wiring and breaker can carry it.

        Also can use normal 10A GPO with 15A extension cord (noob question)?

        The earth pin on a 15A extension cord is larger to prevent people from using a 15A device in a 10A GPO. Some chargers (like the one in this deal) come with a short lead that has a 15A plug on one end and a 10A socket on the other to allow you to plug in a 15A plug into a 10A GPO.

        If the car is set to charge at 10A and all the leads are properly-rated then it's safe, but some people might not read the manual and charge at higher currents which is what leads to overheating and fires.

        • Thanks, I'm thinking to get this

          Ultracharge 10 A Handyman Extension Reel with 4 Way Surge Power Board, 25 m Length https://amzn.asia/d/dx7EoEn

          Or this

          https://amzn.asia/d/4IoJUwc

          These are 10A. What do you think? I'm not doing anything to my GPO and if I decided to get the charger, I ll stick with 10A. Thanks

          • @Bargain-er: These things are rates at 10A for a short burst..ie boiling a kettle.

            Since this is continuous…I'd either get this chord, and an EVSE that will do 6A.

            Or a 15A cable, and use it at 10A.

            Using a 10A "online" cable continuous ..asking for trouble.

            Again, the plug will most likely be the point of failure/ heat.

          • @Bargain-er:

            Ultracharge 10 A Handyman Extension Reel with 4 Way Surge Power Board, 25 m

            That doesn't state the wire size, but it's most probably 1.5mm². That's too small for that really long 25m length unless you drop your charge current.

            You should also never run the extension lead coiled up on the roll with high power loads. The losses result in heat, and when you have a lot of cable coiled up into a small area, all the heat is concentrated in one spot and can start a fire.

            Or this
            https://amzn.asia/d/4IoJUwc

            That's definitely much safer than the previous 25m reel. If you're doing 6A it's most likely fine.

            • @eug: Yeah, fair enough. I don't think the granny charger included has the capability of dropping the amp, need to see if the car is capable to do that.

              Ideally I d like to get the 15A cable but as mentioned above, the 15A to 10A adapter may be the point of heat.

              • @Bargain-er:

                Ideally I d like to get the 15A cable but as mentioned above, the 15A to 10A adapter may be the point of heat.

                The inefficiencies are a result of (mainly) cable and connector resistance; assuming the plug and socket is well-made and the cable is properly-rated and in good condition, that short lead wouldn't add much resistance so I wouldn't be too concerned. Of course you'd have to make sure you're only drawing a max of 10A from your 10A GPO.

  • +2

    You've probably just spent $50k+ on an EV, spend the extra $350 for the Tesla UMC (or similar high-quality charger). Why risk it with something that isn't certified and would likely be an insurance nightmare should something happen.

  • You get what you pay, wasnt most of EV fire was to blame chargers ??
    better off spend couple of hundred on OGs

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