• out of stock

TP-Link Tapo Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring $14 + Delivery ($0 C&C/In-Store) @ JB Hi-Fi

920

Even cheaper than Amazon Prime deal Here

If you have a perks coupon, it becomes only $4 !

Two other models:
TP-Link Tapo Mini Smart Plug $15
TP-Link Tapo Mini Energy Monitoring Smart Plug (Matter Compatible) $21

Related Stores

JB Hi-Fi
JB Hi-Fi

Comments

  • -7

    comeon bezoz beat jbhifi ffs i wish amazon has some quick chat function (robot is fine) to report lower prices from competitor

    • +17

      You should change your name to CyberMumbling lol

      • +5

        It also wouldn't hurt them to start sentences with an uppercase letter.

        • +1

          caution… pedant in the house

  • +40

    This is the P110 unit with energy monitoring, so this is a fantastic price. Keep in mind the P110M is the newer model with Matter support which is $19 Amazon.

    Matter support means more longevity, local-only support and native integration with Apple Homekit/Google Home. This means if TP-Link ever turns off their cloud support Matter units will keep running. Also better integration with Home Assistant.

    • Good info

    • Is the local-only confirmed? Will I be able to turn it on/off on LAN without internet?

      • +1

        If it is properly Matter-compatible, then it will have local control.

        Undoubtably the install process will ask to create accounts and to have a cloud connection, but if it implements Matter correctly then it won't need them.

        • Relies on a matter hub existing, there's comments that android 15 will be able to act as a matter hub natively.

    • Thanks for this. Sounds like it's worth the $5 extra.

      • +5

        I would say so. It is a waste of money when cloud providers turn off cloud services and you're left with a brick.

        In this day and age of enshitification I would only trust local-only setups for long term usage.

    • +6

      Also if you buy two from Amazon, the 19.92 becomes 17.92 each because of the 10% off promo.

    • Looks good although it’s only for Prime members…it’s this one right?

      • Yep that's the one! P110M.

    • The P110M doesn't support energy reporting via Matter (yet). TP-Link are meant to be working on a firmware update, but if you plan on using the Matter integration, you'll only get on/off support for now.

      • +1

        You can still get the energy values via the current Tapo route however. But good call out!

  • +1

    Great price. I just purchased 3x last week …. oh well

  • Bought some of these a month ago for $21 from Bunnings. Pretty neat product. Easy to setup and use.

  • +1

    On the topic of these things, avoid meross models. I had 3 of 4 die. They're chunky too so they block other plugs

    • +1

      Same here. Had two. One died.
      I've had tapo ones for about 2 years and Sonoff ones for much longer and none of them had failed.

      A cheap kMart one for 8 bucks also failed but that's understandable.

    • Ah damn, that's good to know. I've only bought one Meross so far, but good to know it's worth switching to a different brand

  • Is there a hub for these? I know you can connect some Tplink devices directly to your router but with the number of smart home stuff on refer to have them all on one hub connected to wifi, I guess that makes a difference?

  • +1

    Does this work locally with HA by any chance? Also I keep hearing about how smart plugs that people have keep dying on them even though they're not plugged into a heavy load, and not having a good time - what's people's experiences with these? The last thing I want is having my phone plugged in and it getting killed because a smart plug dies?

    • Must be the Meross plugs which had a capacitor issue. I believe it's fixed now but not worth the risk when there are other options.

      @Caped Baldy looks to have had this happen above.

      • I've been around on the HA forums and there's people saying it's an issue with all brands - Kogan, Meross, TP link etc, so not related to a specific brand

      • I lost a half full fridge of food

        • That's what worries me - I've heard of a lot of issues of them dying even under a normal load, which is a little annoying :(

        • +2

          Did you ever find it again?

    • +1

      The last thing I want is having my phone plugged in and it getting killed because a smart plug dies?

      The smart plug dies, or the phone dies? Pretty unlikely that the end device is going to be affected besides just experiencing power loss.

      • I've heard of instances of the smart plug dying, but not sure how the end device is, but I'm not 100% sure about that. That said, if smart plugs do have issues and die more often, even if there haven't been many/any cases of end devices dying, I don't know if I'd want to risk it just in case. I seem to have pretty bad luck when it comes to technology, so don't want to risk it as a just in case, even if the chance is extremely small

    • +1

      Needs to go online to add into HA but can work offline after

      • That's great to know, thanks! Do you know how quick the energy monitoring is? Is it instant when local?

        • +1

          Haven't used the energy monitoring much TBH but seems to work pretty much real-time.

  • -2

    Amazon showed me 14.99 Prime delivered

    • +2

      That's the TP100, without energy monitoring.

      • +1

        True! Didn't notice that, cheers

    • That's P100 without the energy monitoring.

  • -3

    $14.99 at Amazon delivered and I don't have to deal with sad and angry reps from JB Hi-Fi.

    • +1

      That's the TP100, no energy monitoring version

  • Is this one that suffer the quick on and off when it breaks down?

    • Yes. I have had a heap of these running for the last few years and find them mostly rock solid but have had 2 fail like that so far

    • I got this problem too but mine was still Kasa so looks like it's happening the same with Tapo version

    • Yes, had mine fail like that after a few months of only using it as an energy monitor. Quick refund through Amazon at least

      • Thanks for the prompt replies. Worried it will destroy the electronic attached to it.

    • FWIW I had the same issue with the Meross smart plugs, so it might be something common just to smart plugs in general

    • I did a search here and got put off by the comments about it. The Crest ones from Big W have been fine for me, so far, but this specific model one has a few too many comments about it dying and putting the device at risk with the clicking.

  • It seems like a great product, but I'm unsure if I need it. Is it worth the money for the power savings from remote control turn-offs like phone and laptop chargings?

    • +2

      It's a lifesaver for hard to reach powerpoints like behind media centres, etc.

  • I noticed the different model below from Amazon:

    P110M (Matter Supported) - $19.92 ($21 at JB)
    P110 - $18 ($14 at JB)
    P100 - $14.99 ($15 at JB)

    Anyone know what is Matter supported?

  • -2

    Queenslanders don't really need this, with our $1000 electricity rebate from the government 😎

    #whereelsebutqueensland

  • Horses to farters. I prefer Grid connect.

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-white-grid-connect-smart-p…

    Can't be bothered with multiple apps to contorl multiple lamps at home….. :(

    • +1

      you can control all of them via google home, right?

      • +2

        Or home assistant for that matter

        • -1

          Nil. I don't do home assistant. I AM the home assistant. Just open the Grid connect app and on or off and schedules etc.

  • +1

    Wow I was looking for a deal on this but just saw the comments and a video showing the rapid on/off failure mode. Was reading my laundry appliances manuals last night which said don't connect to power sources that can turn off at random - unfortunately this was my use case. Will steer clear for now.

    Thanks for the post anyways OP.

    Edit: failure mode for those interested (https://www.reddit.com/r/Tapo/s/4hIU1ahbkJ)

    • This is one of the reasons I would never connect one to something like a 2000W heater, which people on this forum seem to recommend every winter.

    • I have 3 going fine for a year now. Also have a P100 doing fine.
      I use the P110 for monitoring, pretty much never ever switch them off so I hope they will be fine since the relay isn't being used.
      The P100 I use for the electric blanket, which I ask google home to switch on and off a few times a night but hoping the low power draw won't cause issues.

      Doesn't instill a lot of confidence though.

  • What are some of the popular use cases of this thing?

    • turn on your bedside table light on and off when you are away holiday so bad guys think you are at home

    • +1

      I use them for automatically turning on oil heaters at night at a certain time. So, I make sure the room is warm before sleeping.
      I have also connected oil heater functionality to the the temperture monitor to avoid too hot/cold temperatures. That also requires the hub.

      Overall, great devices! It is really cool to be able to control devices while you are away :)

      • +2

        i say hi google warm my bed and it turn on the electric blanket……
        cheaper, more reliable, ontime, and warmer than my ex-gfs

        • Are you up to GF#6 yet, or still using the manual GF#5 model?

          • @rooster7777: waiting for samsung AI to be implemented so they will be a little smarter before going to get #6

      • What is power rating for this? Thinking using for oil heater. What is your setup for temperature control

        • +1

          Setting for automation:
          Turn on plug at 9 pm.
          Turn off plug at 8 am.
          Turn off plug when tempeature goes above 26 degrees.
          Turn on plug when temperature goes below 24 degrees.

          I also gave the time range for temperature automation task to work only between 10 pm and 8 am

    • +4

      Here’s what I use my power monitoring plugs for:

      • Monitor my dishwasher and washing machine to send me an alert when they finish.
      • Monitor my robot vacuum charger and turn off the power when it’s charged (saves 7W of power it constantly sucks).
      • Monitor my gas central heating, combined with door sensors, will alert me if the heater is running and the doors have been left open.
      • Monitor my hot water system to ensure my bathroom light doesn’t get turned off while we’re having a shower (and the motion sensor can no longer see us).
      • +1

        But you didn't build those automations with Tapo itself, right? Rather with something like Home Assistant or some other hub?

        • Yes, you’re quite right, I should have mentioned in my original comment, all done in Home Assistant.

          Also a range of brand’s plugs: TP-Link, SmartThings and Eko (Tuya)

      • Monitor my robot vacuum charger and turn off the power when it’s charged (saves 7W of power it constantly sucks).

        Curious-

        How does it figure to turn the vacuum charger on again after the vacuum cleaner has been operating and needs a recharge?

        I fact, how does the vacuum cleaner know how to dock back to the base? I had thought the base needed power to broadcast precise location to allow re-docking and reconnecting the quite small electrical contact pads.

        • i think, when the robot finish works it will go back to base, and when fully charged the plug will turn off. the next day robot go out again and work, and comeback to back, repeat above

        • +2

          When the vacuum turns on, either through an automation or me manually telling it to run, the plug and base turn on at the same time. So the plug stays on for the time the vacuum runs as well as the charging time. An automation monitors the progress and switches the plug off after it has gone through its charging phase and then drops back to the idle 7W of power.

          Here’s a little graph of the power usage.

          As a side note, the vacuum is also quite an early model which only has an infrared remote (no wifi), so it’s all controlled with an IR blaster.

          • @Hargain Bunter: Okay, that's quite interesting. So the third party IR blaster is also integrated into your HA system, and this is the trigger that starts the cleaning, and also turns on the power to the charging station?

            I'm thinking that the base stations are likely to have IR broadcasting or something similar to allow for very precise docking. And without the base station being turned on, the vacuum is going to have quite a hard time to accurately dock again.

            I just did a quick test- picked up the vacuum, moved it a foot away, and it found it's way back to the dock. So it's not relying on mapping, it's communicating directly to the base station and triangulating on it.

            This idea of using a smart plug on a vacuum charger is kind of appealing- it would pay for itself in about a year. But synching the cleaning cycle to turning on the base station is something I haven't gotten my head around. And my place isn't really suited to a big HA deployment with a dedicated controller.

            • +1

              @rumblytangara: Yes you’re right, my dock does use IR for docking. This is completely separate from the IR blasters and is just controlled by the dock itself. That’s why I need to keep the dock plug switched on during the vacuum cycle.

              Getting into some more detail, I actually have a few of third party IR blasters. One Logitech Harmony Hub and two Broadlink RM4 Pros. These are in a few places around my house so I can control my vacuum from most places in the house (as well as control some IR reverse cycle air-cons). These are all integrated into Home Assistant.

              Within Home Assistant I have created a “template vacuum” which is like a virtual vacuum device. The template vacuum is made up of the power usage sensors in the plug and scripts that control the plug and send commands via the IR blasters.

              The Start Vacuum script first turns the vacuum plug on, then waits a few seconds for the dock and vacuum to power up, then sends an IR command to start the vacuum running.

              As well as being controllable directly through Home Assistant, the template vacuum device can be exposed to Google Home and Apple Home for voice and additional app controls. Google Home treats it like a real wifi vacuum, so can tell it to start, pause, dock and locate. Apple Home doesn’t support vacuums just yet so just has a switch for start and dock.

              I have Home Assistant running on Raspberry Pi 4, so it doesn’t use much power or space.

              • @Hargain Bunter: Thanks for the detailed explanation. Very helpful.

                I was hoping that there'd be some kind of magical manual kickoff to the whole system (press button on the cleaner, or start it via app) that would also trigger the base station power turning on (my experience with a universal Harmony controller years ago put me off ever using them again).

                But this has made me think about power usage… I could just manually switch off the base stations when not in use.

                • +1

                  @rumblytangara: I would recommend the Broadlinks over the Harmony. Logitech have stopped making Harmony remotes, so it’s only a matter of time before they turn off their cloud support for them. I’m hoping they open-source their software and IR databases when they do that, but companies don’t tend to do that. Broadlinks are way cheaper (like $40) but they don’t come with a hardware remote, and their IR database is way smaller.

                  Now that I have built the template vacuum configuration, from a user perspective it does now have a magical manual kick off, I press the start vacuum button in Home Assistant, Google Home or Apple Home apps, or tell Google Assistant or Siri to start the vacuum and it all happens in the background. If I walked up to the vacuum and pressed the button it wouldn’t magical turn on though.

                  In regard to power usage, your base may be a lot more efficient than mine, and may not actually suck down that much power when idle. For reference my vacuum is a Samsung POWERbot VR9000.

  • That is the p110 which records power usage. Great deal and great device.

  • Link not working?

    • item Ozbargained!

      • item is back in stock again but seems to be click-and-collect only… and none of the stores are near me lol

  • Have never used one of these before, but I do need to check the actual consumption of a slow cooker/sear breville…would this tell me the actual power consumption per hour?

  • +2

    Sold out I believe

  • Got one from a previous deal, still don't know what to use it for :-)

  • Anyone having an issue where the runtime counter keep creeping up, although the smart plug is off? Mine is xreeping up by 1 hour per day at least.

  • Do these plugs monitor consumption hourly or just the overall day?

    Currently using the Meross plugs that only show daily consumption.

    Any recommendations for wall plugs that have hourly (or more granular) monitoring?

    • usage is recorded hourly. You can then see results for each hour, day, or month

      • Thanks! I just saw screenshots of the monitoring page, looks like exactly what I needed.

  • These are rated 10a max right? Should be safe for high power appliances like airfryer or oil heater?

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