Unsure if this good oil, but full synth for about $30 seems pretty good these days.
They also have 10w-40 for a bit cheaper ($25ish).
Gulf Western SYN-X 4000 Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5W-30 5 Litre $30.49 + Delivery ($0 C&C/ In-Store) @ Supercheap Auto
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Worf on 29/02/2024 - 12:30 supercheapauto.com.au (1847 clicks)
Last edited 29/02/2024 - 12:48 by 3 other users
Last edited 29/02/2024 - 12:48 by 3 other users
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For most cars, it really doesn't matter what brand you get.
Good thing he said brand doesn't matter not viscosity
The viscosity is 5W-30, same as any other 5W-30 oil. Hope this helps.
@jv: Ok so yeah, the viscosity of all 5W-30 oils is the same, hence the grading. Any subtle "difference" between brands would be within some industry tolerance (I would expect/hope) so consider every xW-y oil to be the same across brands.
What I'm presuming you're talking about is the (proprietary) additives each brand uses. For the average driver, driving the "average" car it won't matter so long as good driving practices are followed such as waiting until the engine has reached operating temp to give it the proverbial 'beans'.
(by average I mean not a hoon and not a high strung performance engine, although in many cases I think engines aren't so picky unless you're driving a VW or merc or something known to be finnicky)
edit/addition: With regards to whether this is a "good" oil, I'd say it's probably just as "good" as the Castrol Edge we all love. I have brand loyalty to Penrite and Castrol, but for my ordinary cars I wouldn't bat an eye to use this stuff — it'd function just the same. Some engine builders/mechanics may "know" something I don't, in which case they may prescribe another brand for a specific engine IFF (if and only if, for those who don't know ;-) ) the additives are "known" to be beneficial in a certain application. However, the as my usage of quotation marks implies, the world of oils is hugely complicated, and the objective knowledge of what is "best" is not really obtainable as conditions vary so much, even if you were to test (say wear or protective properties), your results cannot be transferred to another engine/scenario. This is because the scientific method requires us to control for confounding variables, and things such as the batch number of an engine block or piston/bearing/whatever may introduce variabilities in the results that would confound, let alone variations in wear between engines of different ages, or engines of different brands…
I hope this answer helps, however if not, I'm more than happy to try and clarify anything. Also, I'm not a mechanic but a thorough enthusiast of engineering science of materials and machines. So, I've said anything wrong I'm happy to defer to those who know more!
Ok so yeah, the viscosity of all 5W-30 oils is the same, hence the grading. Any subtle "difference" between brands would be within some industry tolerance (I would expect/hope)
There certainly is an industry tolerance:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/viscosity.htm
9-12.5 centistokes @ 100C for a 5W-30 oil. This one is 11 cSt:
https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/60…
@dandoon: And this price is is an excuse to change oil and filter which make your engine last longer
It's been done to death on YouTube. Just go by the viscosity.
I all comes from a handful of refiners.I don't think jv is clued up on oils
Maybe on massage oils.
Helpful as always.
Gotta fill the page up somehow!
Seriously, why are you everywhere? You're like God of Useless Comments and omnipresence. Are you Scotty Yang?
You're like God
Are you religious?
No, but I will consider to become one if you could s-h-u-t u-p. Please?
Using it for my car. Nothing go wrong. The oil has API SP and GF-6A standard. I could not find any lower price oil with those standard.
10w-40 is not fully synthetic
Just brought 3 bottles today. Enough for my car in next 1.5 year.
you need to look at the specs to see if it matches your engines requirements, viscosity is just a small part of it.
Sca website says it doesnt fit my vehicle (honda accord euro 2012).
But my cars manual says it can use 5w-30, with grade API SL and higher.
Since this oil is grade SP, it should be suitable right? Dunno why sca website says its not
The compatibility with oils is missing a lot of oils, since no one has gone and added the many oils that are compatible with all the different car models.
If it matches what your manual says then it will be ok. The API grades are backwards compatible and the newer ones are better so you should be good.
These web “comparability guides” can be very hit and miss. On the Repco site, a 10L bottle of Penrite C5 oil shows up as “not suitable” for my car, yet a 6L bottle of the exact same product is apparently suitable. Always follow what your manual says.
Used it on my Accord Euro a lot of times. Very good oil
I always used Nulon in a couple of my cars until they used the bat soup virus and fancy new bottle labels as an excuse to double their prices virtually overnight, now I just grab this stuff when on sale. Zero difference, meets the same standards, the rest is marketing boolshit.
Can you elaborate?
Yes
They replaced the normal oil blend with bat soup mush oil
100% Austrlalian Owned & Made, for those inclined to patriotic purchasing practices.
Lebo oil
Odd the description on the website says compatible with diesel engines yet the back of the bottle picture says "Not suitable for Diesel engines". Which is it?
in most cases it will be compatible with diesel engines that require 5W-30 and that do not have a DPF.
in most cases it will be compatible with diesel engines that require 5W-30 and that do not have a DPF.
If it doesn't say CF on the container I don't think it is diesel compatible as diesels run dirty and need higher detergents.
Pretty sure that's (CF) a very old standard.
Pretty sure that's (CF) a very old standard.
It's still around. I purchased Gulf Western 5W-40 SYN-X full synthetic SP/CF ACEA A3/B4 from Autobarn 6months ago.
Here is another one.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/valvoline-valvoline-synp…
@CurlCurl: Should have explained. More appropriate standards have long since overtaken it. There are plenty of syn oils which are suitable to both petrol and modern diesels. Some are more specifically formulated for DPFs but still suited to petrol vehicles.
Eg https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/product/euro-energy-5w-30/
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/home/car-engine-oil/…
SCA website says compatible with my car and GW's website says its another grade. Checked the manual - SCA is correct.
Bought it!
just order 3x, and 6% cashreward the oil perfect for 99% petrol car. NOT disel
Mad thanka foe lettung me know about 6% cashbavk haha will save heaps
What loser would downvote you?
When I learnt to drive the first thing my Dad taught me was how to change a tyre properly, the second thing was how to change the oil. Those simple skills have saved me a lot of $$ over the years. For a car still in warranty it makes sense to allow a qualified person to do it for you (saves arguing if you ever need to claim under warranty) but for anything with expired warranty do your own fluids, filters, et al, and you will be amazed at how much cheaper it is. It's not really difficult and doesn't take specialised tools (albeit, an oil filter wrench does make life easier, but it's still not essential).
I have never owned a used or car out of warranty so I wouldn't know what that is like even my first car was brand new, fortunately I never need to worry about this ever again since I have an ev which never requires an oil change.
How do you know someone on Ozbargain has an EV?
Don't worry, they'll tell you.
You sound like a "special" tool.
Good oil if your car/oil doesn't need special oil specification.
Also on sale.
Gulf Western Syn-X Plus (MB 229.5, VW 502.00/505.00) https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gulf-western-gulf-wester…
Gulf Western Euro Energy (BMW Longlife - 04) https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gulf-western-gulf-wester…
yea but you may as well spend an extra $10 or so and get something you know tests well
I cant find anyone who does independent testing where you can just look up raw data for AU oils
Not my neg but it appears you beleive that companies can just wack any spec/standard claim they like on labels. The syn/semi-syn labelling is a grey area but standards aren't (although you do need to read up on what they are).
For the vast majority of non-commercial users the most important things are using the appropriate/specified viscosity and doing regular oil/filter changes according to your vehicle use (eg if you do high mileage or work your engine hard over a short period then change your oil/filter earlier).
There are some very clued up oil people on Ozbargain if you're concerned. I'll see if I can find the recent deal where they got into the professional nitty gritty.
Edit: can't find the link but I'm sure if you enquire you'll eventually get a response. These guys get oils analysed and are engine (re)builders etc.
point is, unless you pay for your own oil analysis you cant find much test info on oils made in AU
The oil specs to reach the specs are the min requirement, there are certainly oils out there that not only meet these specs but are tested and shown to wear well compared to others. Granted these oils are no where near these prices, often 2-3x more expensive, mostly because they are brought in smaller numbers and arnt as popular with general consumers. 99.9% of people will bulk at oil that costs $200, but to a guy who has 20k in hard parts, $200 is good insurance
But if this and other cheap oils are ball park but a fraction of the cost, it might be viable in some applications
@WT: Again, not my neg but I appreciate why it was given.
point is, unless you pay for your own oil analysis you cant find much test info on oils made in AU
Why do you need to analyse your oil? For the oil you purchase, standards have already done the chemical analysis for you. Analysing USED oil is primarily for the 1% of owners/engine builders etc who are high-end enthusiasts, racers etc.
But if this and other cheap oils are ball park but a fraction of the cost, it might be viable in some applications
In some applications. roflmao. For the vast majority of drives these oils are OVER specced.
I'd very much like to read some of these oil wear tests you speak about. Got any links?**
Oils for super high performance are nowhere near an "extra $10 or so", not are they required for 99% of consumer vehicle usage.
Very good oil
Was about to buy one, but then realised I still have x2 sealed 5L jugs of the stuff from the last sale….
Isn't 5W30 meant for colder climates? The W standing for winter…
Doesn't it only go up to 30C?30 is viscosity, not temperature. The oil table for my car states this oil is good for up to 40C ambient temperatures.
I never said that the 30 stood for temperature. But online oil viscosity charts show that 5W30 only goes up to 35C.
In general that's ~correct but given the oil temp in your engine is >> 100C I wouldn't be overly worried, especially if your vehicle gets typically intermittent use. If you're in a hot environment and your vehicle is in "constant" use you could consider a 10W40 syn oil in summer and switch back in winter.
You will want to do some research on your car and engine, if other people with a good reputation have used Xw-40 for a long time then you can use that, as thicker oil provides stronger protection. The reason why you need to research it is that with some (probably over-engineered) engines it might mess things up with things that are controlled by oil pressure or there might be other quirks. Unfortunately you can't rely on the manual because stringent government policies overseas mean that the slight fleet fuel efficiency gains of thinner oils adds up to big dollars for the car companies. There is also the issue of planned obsolescence. However if you don't drive your car hard (so you keep it under say 3600 rpm) and don't tow anything or have it fully loaded, then Xw-30 might be ok and the engine could last a very long time.
Also check if your engine requires a specific additive spec (some engines might require low zinc for example).
thicker oil provides stronger protection
This depends on the engine tolerances, it can be too thick to penetrate between crankshaft bearings for example and destroy your engine.
The Gulf Western Euro Energy ACEA C3 is good value for diesels with DPF, but SCA says its not suitable tòo.
It’s odd.
It’s low SAPS so meets BMW Longlife 04 specs but doesn’t meet VW/Audi diesel specs.
I've just put this oil into my car and… shrug… seems to be working. Can't say if it's 'good' or 'bad' oil without driving a long distance using it, and even then, any problems may have occurred with another brand of oil. All I know is it's the right type, grade, and spec for my car, so I trust the company to maintain those standards.
It may seem silly to save maybe $10 per oil change per 15,000km by switching to a different brand, but every little bit helps.
imo 8000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first seems like best practice in oil change.
In the old days before synthetic oils this was good advice but with synthetic it’s unnecessary.
Also, age doesn't really matter at all, just mileage.
https://www.thedrive.com/news/motor-oil-age-doesnt-matter-as…
Good oil, good price, good job OP.
Using it in a BMW x3 diesel. Seems to do the job. recommend!
You shouldn’t be using this in BMW diesels.
The correct oil for BMW diesels is the (low SAPS) Gulf Western Euro Energy ACEA C3.
Got to be BMW LL-04 compliant. If it is, all good!
Don't forget
Extra 10% off if you buy TCN HIM GCs at Woolworths as I did this morning.
Non SAE right?
Can't seem to find the HTHS viscosity and NOACK volatility anywhere (I know most brands don't publish these nowadays).
Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 HTHS is around 3.68 several years ago.
No idea what that means. Do you know if Ilsac gf corresponds to any acea (a5/b5)?
HTHS is High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) Viscosity - very important for those high rev performance engine with turbo
NOACK volatility - vaporisation (loss) -very important for Direct Injection engine (less carbon build-up)
jv on 29/02/2024 - 12:39 Comment score below threshold.
