Corsair SF850L SFX-L PCIe 5.0 PSU $199, CyberPower Value Pro VP700ELCD 700VA UPS $119 Delivered + S/C @ Shopping Express

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Shopping Express

• 

  langitbiru on 06/01/2024 - 23:59

  +1

  https://www.amazon.com.au/CyberPower-UT-850VA-425Watt-UPS/dp…

  $105 850va, i think this one is better than the listed 700VA, and most importantly cheaper.
  Kindly correct me if i am wrong. thanks

  • 

    rocketpoweredmice on 07/01/2024 - 00:25

    check the runtime charts on the website - the value pro 700VA has longer run times at the same watt output (eg 60w/90w/200w), assuming it either has a bigger battery or more efficient inverter.

  • 

    Look Up on 07/01/2024 - 10:24

    Kindly correct me if i am wrong. thanks

    Buy an APC or Eaton UPS

    CyberPower are the HeyMix of UPS brands

    Just like cheap power supplies, they will fail when needed most

    • 

      bazingaa on 07/01/2024 - 23:22

      I still remember the APC and PowerTree from those days. I always had powertree and they served me well. I couldn't get RUPS2000 software working over RS232, probably due to being a basic model.

  • 

    bazingaa on 07/01/2024 - 23:31

    CyberPower UT850EG guarantees power protection for computers, networking equipment, and storage devices. The product adopts line-interactive topology with Automatic Voltage

    The Amazon one seems to be a line interactive one (which is good), could find that information on this deal's one. Any idea on that?

    edit:

    found it, both looks like to be line interactive

    https://www.cyberpower.com/au/en/product/sku/vp700elcd

• 

  unco on 07/01/2024 - 05:35

  +3

  I bought this same model UPS from Shopping Express back in 2020 (for $99 at the time) but every time there’s a power outage it doesn’t activate quick enough to keep my computer running so I can safely shut down.
  Once the power has cut off I can turn my PC back on and the UPS shows I have about 10 minutes runtime at that power draw level so it’s not like I’m drawing too much power.

  If I flick the power switch off at the wall to mimic the power going out, it works fine and keeps the PC running though.

  Am I doing something wrong?

  • 

    Sinnerator on 07/01/2024 - 08:27

    they don't understand the U in UPS

  • 

    Look Up on 07/01/2024 - 10:22

    +1

    Am I doing something wrong?

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/10000614/redir

    You need a UPS that uses line interactive or online topology, preferably from a reputable brand like APC or Eaton

    This will filter out the voltage sag and potentially other issues that are causing your PC to suddenly turn off

    • 

      bazingaa on 07/01/2024 - 23:28

      any current recommended models mate ? Back then (Pentium 1 days) online ones were pretty expensive and I only had line interactive one. Haven't used one in recent years but looking one for NAS to gracefully shutdown.

      • 

        Look Up on 08/01/2024 - 17:59

        +1

        Eaton 5SC and 5P series, APC Easy UPS and Smart UPS series

        All line interactive with pure sine wave output

        Online is never cheap so unless you are running mission critical systems, line interactive is enough

  • 

    MasterScythe on 07/01/2024 - 10:55

    Is the UPS directly connected to the wall? Surge protectors and such can mess with their sensing technology.

    But youve most likely made mistakes configuring it.

    Page 2 of the manual - You want to adjust:

    • LINE: High (default is low, this is your likely culprit)
    • SENS: High (default ia medium, AU has good power)

    Also, they use a single 12V/7Ah battery, upgrading to a 9Ah can prevent vdroop, and at 3 years old, its about time for a battery swap.

    • 

      [Deactivated] on 07/01/2024 - 15:31

      Why not just put a 20AH battery and keep the battery outside the UPS? I swapped the 11AH(or similar) with 45AH SMF in APC UPS and it worked fine.

      • 

        MasterScythe on 07/01/2024 - 15:35

        Not only because of for inconvenient form factor, but also because the charger is often designed to operate at a lower duty cycle than a battery of that size would allow.
        Adding 1/3rd of the usable capacity is a nice bonus, and shouldn't cause a large enough resistance drop to bother the charging circuit.

        Some will handle it fine, but for a user who sounds like they might not have read the manual, I'm not about to go into any electrical engineering steps to test or advise something like this.

        • 

          [Deactivated] on 07/01/2024 - 15:43

          @MasterScythe: The charger is a bit like your mobile charger. You can charge 1 mobile per day or you can charge 1 mobile 3 times a day. It shouldnt matter with good ventilation and if its kept cool. The battery, just because its large wont suck extra current from the charger, it only takes what the charger offers. Ya the life time of charger reduces, but these devices are built to last unless you purchase a crappy brand.

          • 

            MasterScythe on 07/01/2024 - 20:41

            +1

            @[Deactivated]: I know, I build lithium packs as a hobby, mostly lifepo4, for rebirthing UPS's.

            It shouldnt matter with good ventilation and if its kept cool.

            That there is my point.
            Its not that it wont usually work, just that you end up greatly extending the charging circuits duty cycle.

            I always try to take into account the person whom im replying to, in regards to the advice I give them.

            Im not going to assume the average joe is monitoring charge controller temperatures.

            A 1/4-1/3rd usable increase for the $15 or so more a 9Ah costs over a 7Ah is noob safe, and affordable.

• 

  laudalashun on 07/01/2024 - 22:32

  Is this a good one to buy for my NAS?