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Crest Smart Single Adaptor Power Monitoring - $7.50 + Delivery @ BIG W

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Crest Smart Single Adaptor Power Monitoring - $7.50 + Delivery @ BIG WAffiliate
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BOC14 on 10/08/2023 - 07:09 bigw.com.au (4974 clicks)
Last edited 10/08/2023 - 12:01 by 1 other user
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This deal is back again: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/783639. Description copied:
$7.50 for the normal plug, and $10 for the one that includes a USB socket. Get in before they sell out (which they did quite quickly last time.)

The ones I bought last time seemingly didn't have the power monitoring working, though I haven't investigated in detail for lack of time. Any advice/feedback welcome.

Update:
Sold out NSW, ACT, VIC, QLD.
Available for delivery SA, WA, TAS, NT.

Electrical & Electronics Crest Power Meter Smart Plug

Related Stores

BIG W
BIG W

closed Comments

  • ChargerV6 on 10/08/2023 - 07:17
    +11

    "The ones I bought last time seemingly didn't have the power monitoring working"

    Then whats the point FFS

    • jaypick on 10/08/2023 - 07:33
      +10

      remote on/off

    • BOC14 on 10/08/2023 - 07:33
      +4

      They're a good price for the switching functionality alone.
      But the most important bit is as I said, I haven't spent any time looking into the issue, it could be user error. Plenty of happy customers on the past deals.

      • geek001 on 10/08/2023 - 09:10
        +6

        FYI, I got some from the last deal. I am using Tuya Smart app and power monitoring seems to work fine on it.

  • MadMax747 on 10/08/2023 - 07:20
    -2

    Not available in any store and also not available for delivery …

    • stratbargain on 10/08/2023 - 07:26
      +2

      I just bought one in VIC

      • tessel on 10/08/2023 - 07:51
        +3

        One??!?!

        • Chandler on 10/08/2023 - 08:05
          +1

          One??!?!

          Well they are stratbargain, not Broden…

          • tessel on 10/08/2023 - 08:08
            +1

            @Chandler: There are no rules to Ozbargain Klub…

        • stratbargain on 10/08/2023 - 09:52
          +2

          I have one setup on the washing machine to send alerts to my wife and I when the washing is done via Home Assistant. For $7.50 I thought I'd add the dryer as well.

          • rentonc on 10/08/2023 - 11:41

            @stratbargain: "wife and I" sure sure…. ;-)

          • rentonc on 10/08/2023 - 11:47
            +1

            @stratbargain: tbf, I'd say exactly the same thing knowing full well 90% of the time either my wife will get it or by some miracle she has coaxed a child into emptying the machine.

          • andresampras on 10/08/2023 - 12:03

            @stratbargain:

            send alerts to my wife and I when the washing is done via Home Assistant.

            How is this achieved, por favor?

            • stratbargain on 10/08/2023 - 13:06
              +3

              @andresampras: There are a few ways to achieve it. i just have two automations in home assistant. one that if the power usage is above X for 10 minutes, it will trigger a second automation that will disable the first and then wait until power usage drops below Y for 5 minutes and then triggers an alert automation. after the alert automation it enables the first automation again and disables the second - basically resetting both for the next wash.

              • tryingtohelp on 10/08/2023 - 14:54

                @stratbargain: Are you using Tuya Cloud, or Local Tuya?
                I have hard wired lights and switches all over the house, with some of these and power strips.
                For some reason, only hard wired lights and switches are working with local tuya, rest are not . Did you experience something similar?

                • Prozac3350 on 10/08/2023 - 17:35

                  @tryingtohelp: I get such mixed results. My lights need internet access but switches are fine being local only (firewalled).
                  I use local tuya.
                  If I block lights from internet they almost always go offline shortly after power cycling and reloading
                  It's why I'm trying to phase over to ZigBee. I'm sick of the rain dance to keep everything connected 24/7

                  • tryingtohelp on 10/08/2023 - 22:39

                    @Prozac3350: This is weird..
                    I just have issues with non hard wired devices. Can’t understand how they are able to stay connected with local tuya and not the others..

  • N1ghthawk on 10/08/2023 - 07:24

    There were a few available in WA Perth Metro stores, according to the stock listing.

  • thorpef1 on 10/08/2023 - 07:32
    +1

    Thankyou, was able to C&C at Winston Hills NSW

  • toecutter69 on 10/08/2023 - 07:34

    Fit two side by side in 2 gang?
    Any luck in home assistant?

    • aukrohavelka on 10/08/2023 - 10:46
      +3

      yes, no issues at all (https://photos.app.goo.gl/a6PvuhEnP6Tmb4gX9)

    • intra-au on 10/08/2023 - 10:53
      +2

      If you dont want to use the integration, you could load TASMOTA onto it.

      https://templates.blakadder.com/crest_SHSPM1.html

      • NigelTufnel on 10/08/2023 - 11:02

        Not OTA though right?

      • anxiousdevices on 10/08/2023 - 11:43

        Does this have to be done before connecting the new device to the crest app ? I remember having heard that once you connect the device to the app, it cannot be flashed anymore ?

        Any easy to follow guides / videos you would recommend ?

      • themadman on 10/08/2023 - 12:48

        I have been wanting to do this but couldn't figure out how to pull off the plastic casing?

        • intra-au on 10/08/2023 - 13:35

          Well, im going to go pickup a few soon, going to take a look at how to do it :)

          Will post up later if i get it working.

        • Pirateguybrush on 11/08/2023 - 00:10
          +2

          It's very difficult to pull apart, and once I got inside I was unable to flash over serial (despite the chip being apparently flashable).

  • hopper on 10/08/2023 - 07:41

    TOTAL LOAD 10A 2400W

    Can i use it on hisense fridge to track usage?

    • Chandler on 10/08/2023 - 08:08
      +4

      Considering all consumer appliances that use a standard wall socket are mandated to be max 10A 2400W, then yes.

      Now how long this Crest product lasts if you're actually running it at 10A (obviously not continuously) that is to be determined, but given even premium models like the TP-Link HS110's have been reported to have less-than-expected lifetimes when used under load, I wouldn't have high hopes for this one…

      • hopper on 10/08/2023 - 09:00

        Thanks, want to only use it for couple of days on the fridge to see the actual usage, after that might use it for other things.

        • geek001 on 10/08/2023 - 09:08
          +1

          FYI, I am using it to track the power usage on my fridge for a month now and it is working well.

          • sane on 10/08/2023 - 09:18

            @geek001: I've had it monitoring since the beginning of the year, and it's notable how little is the fall off during winter.

            Could do with a way to monitor for 0W drawn (power cut) but of course there's no signal to monitor then,

            • geek001 on 10/08/2023 - 09:37
              +1

              @sane: Does that mean your fridge is working as expected then? IMHO, It is meant to be an insulated box, meaning there should be little to no heat exchange with outside of the fridge, so I would expect the temperature outside the fridge to have little or no influence on power consumption. :)

              • placard on 10/08/2023 - 09:47
                +1

                @geek001: I would have thought summer consumption would be a bit higher - yes it's insulated, but similar to an esky, if it's warmer, ice inside doesn't last as long?

                Similarly, if I open my fridge in winter in say a house at 18 degrees vs a house at 27 degrees in summer, the air that goes into the fridge in doing so then needs to be cooled more in summer?

                In saying that, modern fridges are very efficient. I picked up a bottom mount LG from market place with inverter compressor - GB455, the sticker says it uses 300kWh per year. However I put a meter on it for the last 2 months or so and it's average 0.6kWh per day - which means it's going to be less than 300 for the year - remarkable really. Unless the power meter isn't properly measuring the load?

                I put the same power meter on my parents old fridge from early 2000s for a month and extrapolated that and it came out to 660kWh per year. I'm now on the look out for a less than 2 year old upgrade for them on FB marketplace. You can find some near new fridges on there when people can't fit them in their cavity. I paid $500 for one less than 2 years old that was $1200 new.

                • trapper on 10/08/2023 - 11:02
                  +2

                  @placard:

                  18 degrees vs a house at 27 degrees in summer

                  Say fridge internal temp is set at 2c. The temperature differentials are 16 in winter and 25 in summer, so 56% more cooling required in summer.

                  • geek001 on 10/08/2023 - 11:56

                    @trapper: Yes, that does make total sense, but wouldn't insulation play a part? I concede that more cooling is required in summer vs winter because of physics as you said. How much extra cooling would a properly insulated fridge require in summer instead of winter though? 56% of that may not be much at all.

                    • trapper on 10/08/2023 - 14:24

                      @geek001: The insulation determines the heat transfer coefficient.

                      This multiplied by the temperature differential gives the heat flux.

                  • dmkst56 on 10/08/2023 - 16:48

                    @trapper: you can't do percent change like that on degrees Celsius because the zero point isn't actually zero degrees. You have to convert to Kelvin first and then you can calculate percentage. Percentage difference between 16°C and 25°C is more like 3% not 56% lol.

                    • trapper on 10/08/2023 - 20:53

                      @dmkst56: No that's not right. It's the temperature differential that matters, not the absolute temperature.

                      The differential is the same in Celsius or Kelvin.

                      Celsius: 18 - 2 = 16
                      Kelvin: 291.15 - 275.15 = 16

                • geek001 on 10/08/2023 - 11:49

                  @placard: From what you said, it does make sense that you use more power in the summer, maybe it is marginally higher that you don't really see much difference?

                  Sounds like it is time to change my 10 year old fridge…. I think my fridge is hovering around 1.5 to 1.8kwh per day.

                  • NigelTufnel on 10/08/2023 - 13:35
                    +1

                    @geek001: Maybe the door just gets opened more in summer to get cold drinks? You need to install a door sensor do and do some normalising of the data!

                • trapper on 10/08/2023 - 14:18

                  @placard:

                  However I put a meter on it for the last 2 months or so and it's average 0.6kWh per day - which means it's going to be less than 300 for the year

                  It's winter now though, wait till summer and the average will be higher.

                  Also it will depend a lot on how often you open the door, and if you are putting warm things inside that you want it to cool down.

                  • placard on 10/08/2023 - 14:45
                    +1

                    @trapper: Yeah true. I'm content knowing it'll go up a bit in summer.

                    But I do try to not put hot things straight in the fridge or open it more than needed - ie open it once or twice to get everything out at once, rather than open it 10 times kinda thing.

              • trapper on 10/08/2023 - 11:00
                +2

                @geek001:

                It is meant to be an insulated box, meaning there should be little to no heat exchange with outside of the fridge.

                The rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature differential.

              • sane on 10/08/2023 - 18:05

                @geek001: The complicating factor is the heat you are removing from the fridge/freezer goes into the coils at the back of the fridge via the heat engine. Which is then seeing the temperature of your house - which you are probably trying to keep at room temp. So summer or winter, the difference in temp is less than you might think.

                If you say heat to 20C in winter, but cool to 27C in summer, that's just 7C of total difference.

                Plus there's different performance coefficient depending on temp.

                Overall, the freezer in the garage might end up more efficient in the winter, just because it sees temps closer to ambient.

          • Wolfenstein98k on 10/08/2023 - 17:53

            @geek001: Out of curiosity, what more data do you need? The fridge more or less consumes the same power every day on average, right?

        • placard on 10/08/2023 - 09:48

          To get a more accurate reading, leave it in place for more than 2 days. Personally I'd leave it in place for a month, then extrapolate for 12 months. This takes into account times you may not be home or home more = opening fridge doors more or less.

        • Richsta on 10/08/2023 - 09:53
          +1

          I have one on my samsung fridge 679ltr for the past 3 months and working well. The fridge runs on avg about 1.7kw daily.

        • r0nmac on 10/08/2023 - 11:09

          I got the Meross one running behind my fridge since Jan. Just to be able to switch it off without having to pull it out of its cavity.
          Bonus - it also monitors - and consistently about 1.1Kw per day.

          I have another Meross working my pool pump since October last year. Hasnt missed a beat.

      • Hyena on 10/08/2023 - 09:10
        +2

        modern fridges draw bugger all - my big double door unit draws between 50 and 150w (only turns on every half an hour or so)
        Also the relays inside these are over 10a (I can't remember exactly if it's 13A or 15A) so they should be fine for running sensible sustained loads from 10A outlets. I had one controlling a solar battery charger and it would regularly pull a full 10A for 6 hours. I wouldn't expect it to last for ever doing that but it was only a test until I swapping in higher current wifi breaker

        • placard on 10/08/2023 - 09:57

          Depends which fridge though, I looked up the Hisense fridge the OP is referring too, it's pretty average with power - 3 stars only and 540kWh per year!

          • Hyena on 10/08/2023 - 10:38
            +1

            @placard: Yeah there's variability for sure, but even @ 540kwhr/yr it's only 1.5kwhr per day or average around 60w draw - next to nothing in the grand scheme of things and no issue monitoring with this device even if it was 30x this.
            If you want to waste power, keep an old plasma TV! I replaced my main TV with a 65" LED unit and it draws less than 100w. I put the old 50" plasma in our spare room for my my kids to play xbox and it draws around 400w!

        • Chandler on 10/08/2023 - 10:40

          The should, but like I said there are plenty of reports of better devices dying after a year or so. Even my own TP-Link HS110 that I had on (I think it was…) my washing machine ended up dying after a year or so, and it never ran at 10A; maybe 8-9A at times when heating water, but never full load, and again, only short durations and a few times a day.

      • Whiplash on 10/08/2023 - 14:51

        Been using the older bigger model for 2y now and it's fine. Slimline 110 seems to be ok monitoring my 4 NASs 24/7

  • sane on 10/08/2023 - 07:57
    +3

    Energy monitoring worked fine for me. In essence its a web page that you can access from the smartphone app with data on the day, month, etc. together with current data. If you can't see anything, try changing your smartphone app, most Tuya compliant apps will work.

    • BOC14 on 10/08/2023 - 08:01

      Thanks mate, will have a look. Had been using Tuya's Smart Life

    • Kramo on 10/08/2023 - 08:01

      So this is a Tuya compatible device?

      • sane on 10/08/2023 - 08:17
        +1

        Aren't most of them?

        Yep, its a generic Tuya device.

  • nagel on 10/08/2023 - 08:00

    Damn, bought 2 Tapo P110 last week, could have gotten 6 of these instead!

  • geekcohen on 10/08/2023 - 08:01

    Looks like the same as the Mirabello one. Does anyone know if this works with their app?

    • sane on 10/08/2023 - 08:17
      +1

      Yep, no issues

      • geekcohen on 10/08/2023 - 08:25

        Brilliant!

        • Luckypenguin on 10/08/2023 - 09:24
          +1

          Yes, the Mirabella app can run Brilliant smart devices too :)

          • geekcohen on 10/08/2023 - 09:46

            @Luckypenguin: yeah, my whole eco system is currently Mirabella currently. Door Sensors, Motion Sensors, Smart Plugs, Downlights and I am adding more things.

    • bio on 10/08/2023 - 13:16

      They are all Tuya based devices and all those apps are the rebranded Tuya app. Just download the actual "Tuya Smart" app and see all your devices in one place.

      • Whiplash on 10/08/2023 - 14:52

        Can TP-Link ones be tuya flashed?
        Thought tuya was needing their app tho

  • HLTT on 10/08/2023 - 08:01

    Would this work with reolink app’s IOT?

    • klaw81 on 10/08/2023 - 08:23
      +1

      Reolink's IoT scheme appears to be restricted to other Reolink products. At this stage, the only device I can find that's compatible is their own stand-alone floodlight.

      You can link all manner of devices to Reolink via Home Assistant, but that's like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut.

  • Opaquer on 10/08/2023 - 08:16
    +1

    I'm assuming this is Tuya based and would therefore work in Home Assistant like other Tuya based devices, right?

    • intra-au on 10/08/2023 - 10:54

      Or flash Tasmota onto it.

      https://templates.blakadder.com/crest_SHSPM1.html

      • anxiousdevices on 10/08/2023 - 11:43

        Does this have to be done before connecting the new device to the crest app ? I remember having heard that once you connect the device to the app, it cannot be flashed anymore ?

        Any easy to follow guides / videos you would recommend ?

      • B-Moose on 10/08/2023 - 12:41
        +2

        Does that need soldering with this device? Or just the Usb to serial? That's kind of the limit where it becomes too much for me.

        • Pirateguybrush on 11/08/2023 - 00:11
          +1

          Requires soldering. It's difficult, I couldn't make it work.

  • EarlyBird on 10/08/2023 - 08:26

    Does this have programmable set and forget auto-timer that operates every time it's switched on, like the Tapo 100?

    • geekcohen on 10/08/2023 - 08:32

      Yes, providing you configure it via a suitable app. I have two for my Turtle & Bearded Dragon lights. Automatically turn on and off on their configured times through the app.

  • Donutpuss on 10/08/2023 - 08:26

    Would these work with Kasa app? Finding it hard to find Kasa ones since TP link went their own way with a different app.

    • deadpoet on 10/08/2023 - 12:30

      Absolutely not, only TP-Link Kasa devices work with the Kasa app (even Tapo devices won't wok there, they require their own Tapo app). These are Tuya devices, so you'll need one of the Tuya apps such as Smart Life, or you can use Home Assistant with an integration such as localtuya.

      Also, it appears that TP-Link Kasa smart plugs such as the KP115 and KP110 are end-of-life, because it seems to be impossible to find any stock here in Australia as of a few months ago (unless you count the absurd scalper prices on eBay). If you want to stay with TP-Link, your only option now is to go for the Tapo range instead. They are very similar but use a completely different Tapo app.

      I personally use Kasa, Tapo and Tuya devices with Home Assistant, and my preference is for Kasa and Tapo. I recently started buying Tapo P110 energy monitoring plugs and they work very well, and are essentially functionally identical to the Kasa plugs except for the different app.

      • Donutpuss on 10/08/2023 - 13:31

        Thanks for this detailed reply. If i was to go Tapo going forward, are the kasa plugs compatible with that app or are they a dead end ecosystem now?

        • deadpoet on 10/08/2023 - 14:36

          Unfortunately the Tapo and Kasa plugs are NOT compatible with each other's apps, so you need to manage the Tapo plugs via the Tapo app, and vice versa with the Kasa plugs. It's a bit annoying, but if you use Home Assistant like I do, it's not an issue since I very rarely use the apps anyway.

          It looks like TP-Link is still selling new Kasa devices in the USA and some other countries, but they seem to have dried up in Australia, so I'd say Kasa is most likely a dead end here. Probably best to buy Tapo from now on.

      • Whiplash on 10/08/2023 - 14:54

        TP-Link just pwned themselves making things incompatible within their own lineup

      • quick-dry on 11/08/2023 - 03:06

        are the Tapo devices able to do local processing or does everything have to go up to their cloud to control/query them?

        • deadpoet on 11/08/2023 - 10:02

          Unfortunately it's reliant on the cloud for certain crucial things, you can't do local-only:
          https://github.com/petretiandrea/home-assistant-tapo-p100

          Although the integration works using LAN, the tapo device needs internet access to synchronize with tapo cloud, especially for credentials, a missing internet access could lead into "Invalid authentication error". Also a static IP must be set for device.

  • cookie2 on 10/08/2023 - 08:28

    Various vic locations have stock for pickup. Thanks OP.

  • TommyGun on 10/08/2023 - 08:35

    Thanks Op. Ordered 2 from Queen Vic Store in Mebl CBD.

    • ColdFudge on 10/08/2023 - 08:46

      i think u got the last ones from that store. Now have to go all the way to south yarra.

  • tatnal on 10/08/2023 - 08:36

    got some finally thanks

  • freesteakknives on 10/08/2023 - 08:45

    Got two of the USB ones - non usb was OOS

  • buckerooni on 10/08/2023 - 08:50

    sorry or the noob question but I have some gridconnect switches, can I pair these into my gridconnect app?

    • Domingo on 10/08/2023 - 09:17
      +1

      Yes. They are tuya based

  • Jared17 on 10/08/2023 - 08:52

    Darn nothing available for pickup around me. Delivery isnt worth it

  • darxtorm on 10/08/2023 - 09:08
    +6

    bought 6 of the usb combo ones - delivery in metro vic

    my home power needs are… unconventional

    • edit -

    this aussie bloke has a very decent review on hooking them up in home assistant https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9Oxgc11Ryk

  • [Deactivated] on 10/08/2023 - 09:10
    +1

    I have these, they monitor fine for me and have been a godsend when it comes to these insane new power rates that most of the country are seeing.

  • jtb on 10/08/2023 - 09:17

    Does anyone know if the one with usb has a physical switch to turn it on/off?

    • Domingo on 10/08/2023 - 09:17
      +3

      Physical switch only toggles the powerpoint, not the usb ports.

      • jtb on 10/08/2023 - 09:18

        Thanks. Is the usb always on?

        • witheredcouch on 10/08/2023 - 09:20
          +1

          If that's the case, that is unfortunate, was hoping to use this to make USB lights smart.

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