This was posted 1 year 5 months 4 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Gulf Western Premium Gold Engine Oil 15W-40 5 Litre $26.59 (Member's Price) + Delivery ($0 C&C / in-Store) @ Supercheap Auto

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Gulf Western Premium Gold Engine Oil 15W-40 5 Litre $26.59 (Member's Price) + Delivery ($0 C&C / in-Store) @ Supercheap Auto
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USER DC on 18/07/2023 - 16:55 supercheapauto.com.au (376 clicks)
Last edited 21/07/2023 - 21:14 by 2 other users

A good deal to share especially after these guys gave so much loyalty credit recently, in last week only, also good if you missed a amazon prime deal oil deal. (infact could possibly work out cheaper if you still got a spare $10 credit laying around somewhere in your email).

Also generally speaking since this deal requires a club membership, you wont be able to price beat/match at other stores (they would usually have clause preventing price matching offers requiring membership)

if you are not a member you, can join for free.

Product Info
Gulf Western Premium Gold 15W-40 is a high-quality semi synthetic engine oil designed and formulated for everyday passenger vehicles and light diesel engines requiring API SN/CF specifications or earlier. It reduces oil consumption, exhibits superior anti-oxidation capabilities while offering excellent protection against cold start wear and fantastic thermal stability in harsh conditions. Gulf Western Premium Gold is recommended for use in petrol, light diesel and LPG engines and is also suitable for use in 4 stroke motorcycle engines with wet clutches.

To find the oil type and viscosity suggested for your vehicle; either add your vehicle to My Garage or check with your manufacturer, vehicle user manual, your local mechanic or head in-store and talk to one of our friendly team.

Features
5 Litre
15W-40
API SN/CF
Oil Composition Semi-Synthetic
ACEA A2/B2
API SN PLUS/SN/CF
Ford ESE- M2C -153E
Military Standard MIL-L-46152E, 2104E
Versatile engine oil for petrol, LPG & light diesel engines requiring a API SN/CF
Can be used in both turbo & naturally aspirated engines

Automotive 15W-40 Engine Oil Gulf Western Oil

Related Stores

Supercheap Auto
Supercheap Auto

closed Comments

  • MS Paint on 18/07/2023 - 17:03
    +2

    Semi-Synthetic

    • capslock janitor on 18/07/2023 - 17:09

      means wut

      • MS Paint on 18/07/2023 - 17:25

        No. It's not related to dehydration tests.

        Weight
        Urine colour
        Thirst

  • Chocobros on 18/07/2023 - 17:11
    +2

    Semi-synth despite the sneaky colour change of bottle to gold from silver.

    • USER DC on 18/07/2023 - 17:18
      +1

      Blue to silver to gold

      https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engi…

    • Skips on 18/07/2023 - 19:08

      The bottle says synthetic on both sides, description says semi-synthetic. Perhaps the description hasn't been updated?

      • iand on 18/07/2023 - 20:43
        +1

        from the Gulf Western website
        PREMIUM GOLD is a mid viscosity range premium grade synthetic engine oil designed for passenger cars and light diesel engines.

      • Chocobros on 18/07/2023 - 21:07

        If full synthetic then not the worst price these days :/

        • rifter on 19/07/2023 - 10:26

          Synthetic can be modified mineral based oil. Semi synthetic is a mixture of synthetic and mineral based oil. Fully synthetic is fully synthetic.

      • Tim349850 on 20/07/2023 - 00:16

        When it comes to Gulf Western, 'synthetic' means semi-synthetic (they don't put 'semi' on any of their products). It has to say full synthetic to be fully synthetic. If you go to the product on their website and click on the MSDS link, then under ingredients it says 'severely refined mineral oils', that is different to what it says on the 'fully synthetic' products if you compare them. www.gulfwestern.com.au/product-category/passenger-vehicles/

        • rifter on 22/07/2023 - 21:47
          +1

          Same with Mobil. Synthetic is modified mineral oil.

        • JIMB0 on 23/07/2023 - 09:31

          Most oils marketed as synthetic are just 'severely refined mineral oils' also called hydrocracked (group 3). The only true synthetics are group 4 and 5 oils (PAO and ester). These are much more expensive and not very common anymore since the manufacturers can make a group 3 and call it synthetic.

  • Hugh G Rection on 18/07/2023 - 19:23

    is this any good for winter?

    • Skips on 18/07/2023 - 19:43
      +1

      It's a 15w, so by definition good to -20 degrees.

      • jv on 18/07/2023 - 19:59

        good to -20 degrees.

        So won't work in Tassie then ?

        • Skips on 18/07/2023 - 20:06
          +1

          Lowest ever recorded temp in Tas is -14.2

          This oil is good to go

          • Hugh G Rection on 19/07/2023 - 07:19

            @Skips: i thought 0W and 5W is best for winter and 10W & 15W for summer, is this no longer the case?

            • MasterScythe on 19/07/2023 - 10:47
              +2

              @Hugh G Rection: That doesn't make sense sorry,
              I think you've confused "W" numbers with API ratings. The W does not mean 'weight', it means Winter.
              The 0W 5W 10W 15W that you've mentioned are all nothing more than an indicator of how much chlorinated parafin makes up the oil.

              To the common person, the 'W' rating is better though of as a resistance to thickening, rather than a Weight.
              There is no such engine oil as one that gets THICKER when it's hot. Doesn't exist.
              The W and the Hot API ratings are on different, misaligned scales.

              With shockingly few exceptions, the rule is that the lower the 'W' rating, the better the oil. Sure, tolerances in engines are bigger when cold, but even a 0W is notably thicker cold, than hot.
              It's the API 'hot' rating you want to keep at, or (typically) within 1 grade, of your manufacturers level.

              The problem with 'big differences' between the two, such as a 5w40 vs a 15w40 is that more chlorinated parafins are required to make up a 5W's characteristics, and these are long chain molecules.
              This means it shears quite easily, so if you drive the car hard, stretch your drain intervals, or make it 'work' (towing?) Those molecules can be cut, and that thins out the entire mixture, so your 0w40 might look more like a 5w20 after a few thousand K's, where as a 15w40 might settle more in line with 10w30 when the oil is 'worn out'.

              This is why if you live somewhere genuinely 'always hot' a higher Winter number can indeed show significantly less wear metals when you do a drain analysis, even if your vehlicle claims it wants 5w30, a 10W30 might perform better under specific circumstances (because they spec the same oil for say, southern NZ, as Northern QLD; for example).

  • Makaroni on 18/07/2023 - 19:41
    +2

    Pay more attention to the API and ACEA specifications, and less on whether it is Synthetic or Semi Synthetic blend.

    That's what OEM would be looking at.

  • JIMB0 on 18/07/2023 - 20:12
    -1

    Perfect for your old car that burns and/or leaks a lot of oil.

    • jv on 18/07/2023 - 20:28

      g - o - g - g - o….

  • umexcuseme on 18/07/2023 - 20:28

    Anyone know a good source of super cheap oil to use just for cleaning out an engine?

    • USER DC on 18/07/2023 - 21:38

      Vegetable oil, canola Oil ? haha 😂
      if Diesel- lots of Youtube video showing use of kerosine etc. (use anything at your own risk), also old Diesel engines should work with vegetable oil too easily- youtube it.

      • umexcuseme on 18/07/2023 - 23:46

        It's a petrol engine sadly. Was thinking about running a "compatible" diesel oil on it, apparently they clean a lot better than petrol engine oil. Not sure how safe that would be though.

        • USER DC on 19/07/2023 - 00:08

          Was thinking about running a "compatible" diesel oil on it

          probably look for oil on automotive engine oil marketplace like someone selling open bottle for cheaper price, or multiple bottles for cheap. Otherwise if you had $10 loyality credit $16.69 isnt bad for this too (considering this is around $51 for 10L. If you knew about it, you probably should have got some new cheap bottles on prime day sale.

        • MasterScythe on 19/07/2023 - 00:10
          +1

          For the purpose of flushing, literally any oil of a similar viscosity will be A-OK.

          TopDog XDO is usually the cheapest in bulk packs.

          Though you'd need to be seeing significant sludge to really need to flush anything.

          If you take the rocker cover off, you'll soon see if there's oil thats degraded into pseudo grease, or not.

          If you just want to feel like you did some good, then yeah a diesel rated oil will have more calcium carbonate in it, so will clean everything just fine.

          Even "S" ratings are largely unimportant for a single drain interval.

          For example SN oils are lower in zinc, because it can slowly poison the Catalytic converter, but that takes many thousands of K's, not 1 service interval.

          Im a huge oil nerd, I get UOAs on most drains, and Ive built a few high performance engines too, so I like to think i'm speaking with some knowledge.

          Its a STRONGLY opinionated field though, someone WILL disagree with me, but once you understand how an oil pump works, and what the ratings truly mean, its not so tricky to work out where you stand.

          • umexcuseme on 19/07/2023 - 11:00

            @MasterScythe: Thanks. Re. the diesel oil, I was thinking of just running it full time instead of doing a flush. Would this harm anything? I'd also be adding some AT-205 to keep the seals healthy. But yeah I have previously removed the rocker cover to repair a leaking gasket and it is quite sludged up and varnished in there, from the previous owner.

            • MasterScythe on 19/07/2023 - 11:59

              @umexcuseme: Usually diesel oil is still SL rated, so will have more Zinc, so will create shorter catalytic converter life.
              Other than that, no, no harm.

              AT205 isn't something you want in there if you can help it, it causes the seals to go soft and swell. It reseals, but through the process of weakening the polymer bonds. Using it once if you're unable to source new seals is fine I guess, but I'd use it sparingly.

              • umexcuseme on 19/07/2023 - 12:46

                @MasterScythe: Hmm you're right, I just looked up some tests and they confirm it does soften and swell to beyond new. Come to think of it, diesel oil shouldn't damage seals any more than normal oil, I mean diesel engines have the same seals, right?

                • MasterScythe on 19/07/2023 - 16:55
                  +1

                  @umexcuseme: Correct. Diesel oil only differs in 3 usual ways.

                  • A Higher TBN (more resistant to acids forming).
                  • A Higher Calcium Carbonate content (cleaning grit, which is softer than metal though, so its wear is miniscule)
                  • Higher ZINC content (Usually SL, unless low SAPS rated, in which case, it's just 'petrol oil' in a fancy container anyway)
        • USER DC on 23/07/2023 - 12:31

          @umexcuseme PM me, I've got a stunning deal for ya

  • ghosta on 19/07/2023 - 17:21
    +1

    Need to correct a few things

    Diesel oil contains more detergent. If your car has sludge problems the extra detergent for a couple of normal interval oil changes mat help. Most diesel oils also have a petrol rating and are completely suitable.

    The 5w, 10 w, and 15w refer to the thickness of the oil when cold. All of them are too thick when cold to lubricate effectively, they need to be heated to thin out to the recommended thinness. When the engine warms up the oil thins out. A 5w-30 oil will be exactly the same thinness as a 15w-30 oil at engine operating temperature.

    So why are there differnt w ratings? Modern engines have smaller clearances between wearing parts so if the oil is thinner to start with it will flow into those gaps with less engine warmup. It will also flow better in old engines.

    If your car manufacturer specifies 15w -30 oil and you can get a 5w-30oil for a similar price to a 15 w-30 oil then buy the 5w oil, it will protect your motor better when its cold.

    Given you can buy 5w30 full syntthetic on sale for near the price of this semi synthetic why would anyone buy this stuff unless you missed the recent deals…

    • MasterScythe on 20/07/2023 - 12:25

      Given you can buy 5w30 full syntthetic on sale for near the price of this semi synthetic why would anyone buy this stuff unless you missed the recent deals…

      There are really only two reasons that one might.

      First would be if you have a classic vehicle whos seals are swelled from extended exposure to mineral oil.
      While the whole 'no synthetic in old cars' is a total myth, and synthetic seal swellers do a fine job, they still behave slightly less agressively than full exposure to mineral oils.
      In that scenario, the 30% Group3 blend of a 'Semi' is probably more welcome than an 80% Group3 blend of a 'Full'.

      Second would be if you lived somewhere constantly warm, and performed extended drain intervals.
      Since lower 'winter' rated oils that aren't PAO\Ester mixes (so are parafin modified hydrocracked base stock) will shear much more readily.
      So if you're the 15'000km oil change type, I'd increase the 'W'inter rating if my temperature allowed it safely.

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