A Classic, at $199 a no brainer….an all time low I believe.
Would need an amp to get the best out of the 250ohm and 600ohm variants.
DT990 also available for the same price, but they are less balanced
A Classic, at $199 a no brainer….an all time low I believe.
Would need an amp to get the best out of the 250ohm and 600ohm variants.
DT990 also available for the same price, but they are less balanced
Oh yes you do 😂
I had these and the T1. They sound nearly the same.
So yes you need these
Which gen of T1? From what I have read, the T1 sounds superior esp in the mid and better wider soundstage.
Gen 2 that is
I have the gen 1. From what I can remember, the sibilance moves into a higher region (around 8.3khz) so it's less sibilant on instruments and more so on vocals. Timbre is the same, soundstage is a little better due to angled drivers (gives more room aswell, ears not touching). I think the 880s needed more power to drive them.
But it wasn't a big difference. If I didn't get the T1's for $650 back then, I would've kept the dt880 instead.
But like I said, it's about a 10% improvement if you could even quantify it. I think gen 2 and gen 3 of the T1 have different sound though
I have T1s and fine them metallic sounding, If these are the same I'd give them a miss.
Anyone own these and can compare to other 'open back' headphones? Are they truly open back or they feel more like closed back? I have ATH 900X and want to upgrade.
Do you have the ad900x or a900x? Closed or open? What main use?
Sorry, AD900X . Main use for music mostly requiring warm but deep bass. Most open back cans fail to get enough bass unfortunately.
AD900x are probably one of the most bass light headphones you can buy. these though aren't your answer for warmth. Big step up, but not a warm headphone.
Seconding this question. I'd love an open-back pair but I hate weak bass. Mostly music use, maybe gaming (but music primary).
I’d say philips fidelio x2. They’re going for about $175 on amazon. Unless you want to spend more on a high end set.
You don't get a Harman bass shelf on open back headphones without heavy distortion, it's just physics at that point because almost half the enclosure is missing. This is why people talk about headphone collections: you're better off having a closed back you can move over to when you need that oomph or isolation.
What you can get though is sufficient sub-bass extension, but not at this price point save for maybe the Sennheiser HD 560S. Above this point, you're looking at the HIFIMAN egg-shaped planars, and separately their HE6SE if you can get that on heavy discount through import and have a 3W amp to easily deal with the current requirements.
I personally prefer the Beyerdynamic Tygr 300 R over the 560S. Its way more comfortable, much warmer tone, significantly better handling of microphonics from the cable, and my pair of 560S's had awful balance (left was noticeably louder than right). The bass is really good on the TYGR's, but a little bit muddled. I fixed it with oratory1990 eq (or the Auto EQ, I can't remember).
I have the T90, which are open and near identical design to these.
I find bass more than enough for open cans, also have beyer closed pair which I've stopped using.
They definitely leak sound similar to other opens like the AD900X you mentioned, so wouldn't recommend these in an office environment.
Would it be better to buy these or the DT 990 Pro 80ohm at $193 for pc use without an amp?
Would be better to buy the dt880 32ohm
What difference does the higher ohms make when using something like a pc? Is it better to get the 250 so that in the future I may get a mid rang amp or just don't get an amp and stick with the 32ohms?
I believe the 250ohm will sound better amped than the 32ohm un-amped.
If you plan on buying a cheap amp/dac down the track go the 250ohm
Where do you see the 990pro for 193?
Time for a new pair of headphones. I will use mostly for PC but took the 250 ohm version anyways. If I need a little amp in the middle there's lots of options out there these days that wont break the bank. Any one got any suggestions of what you would stick between pc and these if volume was needed? Thanks for posting OP.
Been listening to my 250ohm version straight from the PC they sound terrific but definitely waiting for my DAC so I can get some volume through them. It can't arrive soon enough. Ended up grabbing one of these. https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/780894
Hopefully they will be a nice combo. Very happy with the headphones. They are great.
Are these good to use with a Fiio BTR7 plugged into a pixel 6? I have no idea what the ohms in a headphones context mean
Always wanted to give these a try.
Currently have the 560s so not sure if it's worth it..?
It's not worth it.
Are the DT880s worth it at this price or better of waiting for the HD560s to drop in price and spending a little more or spending a little more on the AKG K612? Looking to get my first proper headphones and can wait out a bit if necessary.
For $200, they're a great place to start. That's the problem, however - it's just the start…
They're in the conversation, but Beyer house sound is a bit sharp even with the DT880 and it's a narrower soundstage due to the semi-open design.
Timbre and bass texture would be best on the HD 560S, while the other two would have the best imaging.
Seem to be near this price often on amazon
Great set, I've got the 600 ohms which I've owned since 2008. Highly recommend ecpecially at that price.
I've had the T1s and also have the Sennheiser HD800S and the DT800 is extremely competitive considering the price.
Would highly reccomend and descent AMP and DAC to make the most of them
How do these compare to the Sennheiser HD598 open back headphones?
I'm still using my trusty ATH-AD700 from over a decade ago, unfortunately they've started to crackle at certain frequencies. Would these be a good alternative in regards to gaming and music? Looking for a sound stage that is equal or better than what I've got now. I'd be willing to get the 250 ohms and get an amp or possibly just go the 32 ohm. I think my current cans sound great so anything better is a plus. I've tried google but I end up going down countless rabbit holes and start convincing my self I should spend 1k then I stop my self and conclude $199 is enough. And then I start rabbit holing all over again, and figure if I spend a lil more I could get this, oh but if I spend a lil more I could get that and so on.
Yep, that's how it works, for sure… (Person was here yesterday: "Why do you have so many pairs of headphones?" "Well, they're all different, and for different things…")
I just got the 990pro. Is the 880 here better?
Personal preference, the 880 in my experience are better and more balanced.
These headphones are a steal though, you can add decent amp/dac (chord mojo which adds warmth) and your set.
HELP!!! Just brought the DT 880 Edition 250 Ohm, I want to use it on my PC. Which amp should I buy for gaming? Thanks!
PC Case gear still have the deal I got for the mmx300, the flagship model I suppose. They are very good.
See the bundle which includes replacements cushions, carry bag, for 339 when the headset itself is listed for 429
Anyone with some technical knowledge would you know if an Audient ID4 Mk2 has enough power for these in a 600 ohm ?
and is it even worth getting the 600 ohm over the 250 ?
the Audient details are all here : (i just cant decipher them haha)
https://support.audient.com/hc/en-us/articles/360055048851-i…
The Audient blog post I was reading last night said up to 600 was no issue for them
could you possibly link me the blog ?
https://support.audient.com/hc/en-us/articles/205565985-Audi…
This is the one, I think (I read a bunch of pages about them, but this one seems to cover it)
@mickeyjuiceman: Here's Chat GPT's thoughts on the matter
The Audient iD14 has two headphone outputs, one with a 1/4" TRS jack and one with a 3.5 mm jack. According to the specifications², the 1/4" TRS jack has an output impedance of <30 Ω and a maximum output level of +12 dBu. The 3.5 mm jack has an output impedance of 0.1 Ω and a maximum output level of +18 dBu¹.
Using the formula P = V^2 / R, where P is power, V is voltage and R is resistance, we can estimate the power delivered to the headphones by the Audient iD14. Assuming a +12 dBu signal, which is equivalent to about 3.1 V RMS, we get:
P = (3.1)^2 / 600 = 0.016 W or 16 mW for the 1/4" TRS jack
P = (3.1)^2 / (600 + 0.1) = 0.016 W or 16 mW for the 3.5 mm jack
Assuming a +18 dBu signal, which is equivalent to about 6.2 V RMS, we get:
P = (6.2)^2 / 600 = 0.064 W or 64 mW for the 1/4" TRS jack
P = (6.2)^2 / (600 + 0.1) = 0.064 W or 64 mW for the 3.5 mm jack
So, in theory, both headphone outputs can drive 600 ohm headphones with enough power, but the 3.5 mm jack has a lower output impedance and a higher maximum output level, which may result in better sound quality and less distortion.
However, there are other factors that may affect the performance of the headphones, such as sensitivity, frequency response, cable resistance and damping factor. You may want to try both outputs and see which one sounds better to you.
Source: Conversation with Bing, 13/06/2023
(1) iD14 - Detailed Specifications – Audient Help Desk. https://support.audient.com/hc/en-us/articles/204934535-iD14….
(2) Audient ID14 MKII enough for Hifiman Edition XS?. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/a….
(3) Audient iD14 - Tech Specs. https://audient.com/products/audio-interfaces/id14/tech-spec….
(4) Audient Headphone Amplifiers & Safe SPL Levels. https://support.audient.com/hc/en-us/articles/205565985-Audi….
(5) Audient ID14 MKII, Motu M4 or Focusrite Clarett+ 2 Pre?. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/a….
also are these much different / better than audiotechnica ath m50x's ?
substantial step up, you need an amp and dac to get the best out of these though
HELP!!! Just brought the DT 880 Edition 250 Ohm, I want to use it on my PC. Which amp should I buy for gaming? Thanks!
Topping DX3Pro+
Looks like the deal is over
i already have 770 & 990, i don't need this!!!!!!!!!