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Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 650W 80+ Gold Ultra Quiet Fully Modular PSU $99 Delivered @ Amazon AU

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The Thermaltake toughpower GF1 650W 80+ gold fully modular PSU is currently $99 at Amazon AU save $70, the RRP is $169 but it can be found cheaper. This price seems like the cheapest current deal, cheapest Amazon price according to Camel.
The specs look good and its fully modular at under $100

P/N: PS-TPD-0650FNFAGA-1
watts: 650W
Model: PS-TPD-0650FNFAGx-1
Type: TTP-650AH3FCG
Max. Output Capacity: 650W
Peak Output Capacity: 780W
Color: Black
Dimension ( W / H / D ): 150mm(W) x 86mm(H) x 160mm(D)
PFC (Power Factor Correction): Active PFC
Power Good Signal:100-500 msec
Hold Up Time: > 16msec at 100% of full load
Input Current:10A
Input Frequency Range: 50Hz - 60Hz
Input Voltage:100V – 240V~
Operating Temperature: 0°C to + 50°C
Operating Humidity: 20% to 90%,non-condensing
Storage Temperature: -20°C to + 70°C
Storage Humidity: 5% to 95%, non-condensing
Cooling System:14cm hydraulic bearing fan
Efficiency: Meet 80 PLUS®Gold at 115Vac input.
MTBF: 120,000 hrs minimum
Safety Approval: CE/cTUVus/TÜV SÜD/FCC/BSMI/EAC
PCI-E 6+2pin: 4
Protection: OCP, OVP, UVP, OPP, SCP, OTP

Other Thermaltake deals on Amazon

Thermaltake Toughpower iRGB Plus 850W 80+ Gold Riing Duo Fully Modular Digital PSU $149
https://www.amazon.com.au/Thermaltake-Toughpower-Digital-Sup…

Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 750W 80+ Gold RGB Sync Edition Riing Fully Modular PSU $119
https://www.amazon.com.au/Thermaltake-Toughpower-Grand-750W-…

TT Premium X1 RGB Cherry MX Blue Switch Keyboard (probably worth its own deal) $83.85 (currently on sale for $99 at Mwave and Umart)
https://www.amazon.com.au/Premium-Cherry-Blue-Switch-Keyboar…

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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closed Comments

  • +1

    guess other sweetheart power supply is rm650x if you want japanese capacitors vs rm650 and this seems $40 cheaper than the corsair rm options.

    • +2

      I always pick full japanese caps in a psu and mobo. Good thing to point out.

    • +1

      I had a rm series psu that nuked 2 PCs once, personally I’m wary of them

      • +1

        Where was this warning Friday… had my Antec flash orange out the back of my case and smoke up the room… bought a Corsair RM750X because reports seemed decent.

        • Is your hardware okay?

          I had that happen to me once at a internet cafe, pc froze and I held the button down to power of and bang lol.

          • +1

            @aussieprepper: Fine… the PC didnt shut down when it happened… must have been one of the unused rails. Why it went I cant say… thinking maybe an insect on an adventure…

        • I’ve posted it around but it gets ignored, it’s a warning that PSUs aren’t as well made as they used to be. I have one in my current pc and there’s been no issues but it was a concern how much this faulty one blew up so much shit, lost all hard drives, a motherboard and a GPU to it

          • +1

            @DemocracyManifest: My Antec ran almost non stop for 7 years. I cant blame the unit. I blame torrents

        • Every manufacturer gets the odd bad model, most Antec units are historically made by Seasonic who make fantastic PSUs, though like most brands there are cheaper models by other manufacturers.

          • @mycosys: Seasonic make corsair psu's and they rebrand them.
            Seasonic used to make xfx, silverstone, corsair, and some superflower psu's. Imho, seasonic is the only brand to buy. I know the price isn't everybodies cup of tea, but you do get what you pay for…. quality, reliability, peace of mind.
            Not all corsair's are made equal, so please do some research as to what you're gonna use it for…. gaming, office, mining, productivity ect…

            • +2

              @teddiebear: Its been a long time since Seasonic made most Corsair PSUs, most of their high end units are made by Channel Well Technologies, the same manufacturer that made this.
              And yes, ive been using Seasonic supplies for 25 years.

    • This has all Japanese capacitors form what i can tell, the product page says 'Japanese Capacitors' and the box for them says '100% Japanese capacitors.

      https://www.thermaltake.com/toughpower-gf1-650w-tt-premium-e…

      I cant find a review for this specific model but all the reviews for the rest of the series show Japanese caps. (this is the white version of this model)
      https://www.eteknix.com/thermaltake-gf1-snow-650w-power-supp…

      Theyre even both made by the same manufacturer - Channel Well Technologies
      https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-rm650x-psu,4611…

  • -1

    Does this power supply come complete with a set of Modular Cables ?

  • I won the X1 Premium with MX silver switches a few years ago, the best thing I've ever won, excellent keyboard even if the RGB controls aren't the best.

  • Seems like a good deal

  • +3

    Always double check MB specs. This psu only has one ATV 12v 4+4. On my last upgrade the MB needed two of these connectors, limited the psu options a fair bit.

    • +1

      It has 1x 24 pin and 2 x 4+4 (8) pin connectors. Mine arrived from Amazon yesterday. Supports AM5 it seems as well

      • +2

        4 x 6+2 PCI-E connectors

      • In the Specs on Amazon it says only one (4 +4) connector, was yours the one in the link or other?

        • Same link. Maybe the model has been revised over time.

      • Mine's arrived and the back of the box says it only has 1x 4+4 (8) pin connector…. what is going on!?! I haven't opened the box yet.

        EDIT: TT's own website says it only has one of those connectors… https://www.thermaltake.com.au/toughpower-gf1-650w-tt-premiu…

        • https://ibb.co/185DrTc

          very strange. there must be a new revision or something? ive opened mine and it has 2 x cables

          whats your part number?

          • +1

            @smerm07: OOPS apologies I am wrong! I ordered two units - one GF1 (non-ARGB), and one GF1 ARGB.

            The ARGB version arrived today, and it's got the 1x connector… but they are meant to be the same PSU design. Once the non-ARGB one arrives I'll report back :)

            • @MrGareth: no worries. but yeah i am confused. the webite says only 1 x connector. has to be a newer/revisised model

              so i presume i can do 1 x 4+4 and then a 1 x 4 on the motherboard. both connectors have the split 8 (4/4)

              • +1

                @smerm07: Heh… well funnily enough:

                GF1 = 2x 4+4 connectors (I got the same as you)
                GF1 ARGB = 1x 4+4 connector

                They are meant to be the same design though, so it looks like TT sneakily modified the specs of the GF1.

                • @MrGareth: very interesting. reading up on it, unless your doing crazy overlocking, you won't need the extra 4pin connector anyway. But yes, very strange all of this.

    • You should edit your post, it has been confirmed you are wrong.

      • Well once someone has replied to your comment, you cant edit it anymore. Please do have eyes though, so hopefully that is sufficient.

    • Are you sure your motherboard actually needed 2 8 pin connectors? Thats normally optional for extreme overclocking theres a hell of a lot of power on one.

      • Yes. Motherboard was ASRock B550M Steel Legend. Needed total of 12 pins on the ATV 12 volt (so technically one and half of the cables).

        • +1

          Funny, your manual says it only needs a single 4 pin

          ATX 12V Power
          Connector
          (8-pin ATX12V1)
          (see p.7, No. 1)
          This motherboard
          provides an 8-pin ATX
          12V power connector. To
          use a 4-pin ATX power
          supply, please plug it along
          Pin 1 and Pin 5.
          *Warning: Please make
          sure that the power cable
          connected is for the CPU
          and not the graphics
          card. Do not plug the
          PCIe power cable to this
          connector.

          ATX 12V Power
          Connector
          (4-pin ATX12V2)
          (see p.7, No. 2)
          Please connect an ATX
          12V power supply to this
          connector.
          *Connecting an ATX
          12V 4-pin cable here is
          optional.
          *The power supply plug
          fits into this connector in
          only one orientation.

          • @mycosys: Definitely not a single 4 pin. The first specs is for either 8 pin or 2 lots of 4 pin i.e. when it says put a 4 pin in slots 1 and 5 that is 2 lots of 4pins. right next to it on the board is an extra 4 pin ATX 12V. Whilst optional if it's there we gotta use it!

  • +1

    Thermaltake Toughpower iRGB Plus 850W 80+ Gold - AMAZON / SCORPTEC / MWAVE $149 (if you want for 3080 build?)

    • +1

      3080s only use 380w at 100% load.

      • Correct.

        Though given rumours about the next gen GPUs more watts will be needed for quiet/efficient use. I bet that's why these midrange wattage PSUs are cheap, some people are going to 850 and more for their next builds.

      • +1

        True, although that figure can be misleading — the issue increasingly appears to be transients which can spike significantly higher than the nominal draw for brief periods.

        That said, a higher quality psu like this is likely to be capable of dealing with those regardless. (For reference I have a 6800xt with maxed ppt on an SF600 without issue)

        • it tends to happen to high quality supplies with very fast and tight overcurrent protection.

          • @mycosys: Interesting. On the flip-side, higher quality power supplies are more likely to be able to deliver above their rated wattage (certainly with static loads at least) and usually have a better hold up time/higher capacitance, presumably aiding in dealing with brief spikes…

            • @snep: They certainly would be able to without their safety protections

  • +1

    Given I had recently searched in this segment, I can say the following.
    1. I didn't find anything below $100 that was fully modular.
    2. 650W is not enough (moved by mini itx system of 500W to 750W). There was no point in getting any less as my main system has a 3080 and someday, going to move to this system years later. Yes, my 3080 runs fine with sfx 750 corsair.
    3. Better to get non-modular as you are likely building in a larger case and if looks really matter, get pay extra for cable extensions.

    • You can still use cable extensions with modular psus, in fact in some cases it's better because cable extensions add a lot of cable length and bulk that needs to be stuffed away.

      650w should be fine for a 3080 and a typical ryzen chip, if running Intel though I agree, the extra 100w will be worthwhile.

  • +1

    I have this PSU, works really well. Solved my periodic NVIDIA black screen, full fan speed issue. Comes with all the cables, although I wish the PCIE ones didn't have multiple plugs.

    • i guessing your came with

      6+2 PCIE daisy chained to another 6+2 PCIE Plug ?

      So there is 2x 6+2 PCIE on one Cable?

      Not a Single cable with only 6+2 PCIE on it

      • 4 x 6+2 PCI-E connectors.

  • +1

    ARGB version is $10 more..

  • Supports AM4 and AM5 motherboards

  • I'm on a cougar 650w bronze psu at the moment, going to upgrade to a 5600 and 6800/Xt or equivalent, should I be looking at the 850w or can I get away with it?

    • You should be ok unless that psu is particularly poor for its wattage. I'm running a 5600x + 6800xt with increased power limits on both with a corsair sf600, no issues when fully stressing both with synthetics.

      If you end up with issues you can always upgrade then.

      • Hey man bit off topic but couldn't message you. Is your 6800xt 3x8 pin or 2x8 pin?

        I'm having some stability problems with the z trio 6800xt and my SF600 so just curious about your setup!

        • +1

          It's a 2x8-pin card, the gigabyte gaming oc. I'd imagine 3x8-pin cards may have issues with the sf600 as you'd have to double up 8-pins on one cable. Also I have the sf600 plat, which is supposed to have slightly higher performance than the gold model — might be relevant given this setup is running pretty close to the limits.

          • @snep: Yeah I've got the platinum too, was ecstatic with it up til now! It's possible by 8 pin splitter is a bit dodgy, or the PSU is getting a bit hot and losing efficiency, or scarily that it's simply not up to the task even with my <100w CPU (which is crazy to me!)

            Thanks

            • @tellhimhesdreaming: 8 pin splitter? You are using two separate cables (i.e. using two seperate spots on the psu) right?

              • @snep: Have two PCIE ports on the SF600 as you know, one goes straight to one 8 pin on the GPU, the other one splits to 2x8 Pin to go the GPU.

                • @tellhimhesdreaming: Oh I thought the MSI was a 2x8-pin card as well. Yeah if it's a 3x8 and you're getting issues there may not be a lot you can do except upgrade PSU… Annoying because it's probably ultimately a cable limitation as opposed to the psu not being able to supply enough juice

  • Looks like a great price for a Gold 650w unit, for those not obsessed with RGB everything.

    Speaking of which, what is the point of RGB on a PSU fan which is typically oriented to exhaust (unseen!) out the bottom of most modern cases?

    Or are some folk exhausting hot air into the base of their cases?

    • +1

      I think you may have it the wrong way around… most modern PSU's have an intake (not exhaust) on the top of the PSU, which pushes air out the back. Most cases have an intake filter on the bottom of the case for that purpose, so it sucks filtered air from under the case into the PSU which then flows out the back.

      If you mount it that way, all you really get is a soft glow under the case though…. and in fact a lot of cases also have PSU shrouds as well, covering most of the PSU :)

      • +1

        You are absolutely correct. Not sure how I got that jumbled around in my explanation.

        However, my question still stands. Assuming that intake from the base of the case is possible (yes, I know some cheaper cases won't have cutouts or filters to allow it) why would anyone choose to take air intake from their presumably warmer case than the cooler external air? Is it as part of the thermal extraction plan where exhausting hot air is considered more important than intaking cool air when it comes to PSU operation? Or is it just so they can see the pretty RGBs on their PSU's?

        I'm genuinely curious to know whether more people take their PSU intake from the case or the outside air, and why…

        • Good Question

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