Was $900.
Surcharges: 1.5% Card, 2% PayPal.
Bunnings can beat it on 10% https://www.bunnings.com.au/mitsubishi-avanti-2-5kw-reverse-…, so it comes to $729. And Mitsubishi is doing cash back at the moment. https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/703172
https://wholesaleaircon.com.au/shop-affordable-air-con-units… is $735, not sure Bunnings has this model.
Or you can try to find more models from there.
Mitsubishi is a good brand in air con, search the product review and you will find it.
MHI is the one people tend to want here
Everyone that I know, including myself loves their Mitsubishi aircon. Amazing performance and very cheap to run. What's to regret?
@Frugalbargainator: I really like my MHI unit, bit my only regret is it's official app is a pile of garbage compared to ME.
I now have a broadlink IR device controlling it, and use the official app just to check that it has worked.
I was guided by the popular opinion here when I decided to buy 4 new MHI aircons. After a year of usage, they are garbage. I have older panasonic, daikin and even kelvinator that are better than MHI. I filed warranty claim but MHI are useless. They use cheap plastic that creaks and pops all the time.
Don’t believe the Ozb hype.
@loropy9: Same with a 7kw MHI Bronte installed about 6 months ago, its a PIA. At least its cheap to run. Had a 10yr old panasonic before that that was very quiet, wish I could have it back.
@loropy9: Can I ask what models did you have and what was wrong with them? The MHI model in this post seems to have glowing reviews everywhere so I’m planning to get one unless something is wrong with it recently.
@GreenRomeo: The 10 KW one is DXK33. The 3 KW ones are DXK06. They all look exactly like this unit in the OP.
@loropy9: Looks like the DXK06 is in Avanti series, which is the same one in this deal. Now I’m not sure what to buy any more. Have heard bad things about MHI and Fujitsu right in this post (while Fujitsu was praised in the previous post). Maybe Mitsubishi Electric?
@loropy9: That's the key word… older. They don't make them like they used to. Kelvinator is mostly generic chinese crap now (dont get me wrong, so is my freezer and dryer… great value and hopefully lasts at least a few years..), across brands they simply arent what they used to be. I have a nearing 30yr central system that somehow sort of still works (on/off, warm/cool…). I can't even tell what it is as all the serial plate and other identification is worn. Crazy.
We also have an MHI for almost 2 years now in our bedroom. We only use it sparingly in summer, our house is an oven in summer/freezer in winter being solid block. We had a noise irritant in the MHI i managed to make go away somehow with some fiddling. I did read online they had a sizable bad batch/fault that caused this sort of noise issues around 2019/2020… i'm waiting for it to happen again or get worse. Seems inevitable.
FWIW… a relo of mine has done aircon installs of all types and related work for well over a decade and his opinion is you cannot trust or rely on any of the manufacturers anymore. All of them either manufacturer or source a lot of work and components in a way inherent with poor quality control, trying to protect margins whilst competing with generic chinese products. They all have issues across models and over years, but he does have a *&^! list he refuses to sell (but will happily install if they supply) due just the ratio of problems. Push come to shove his personal opinion is the Japanese brands are the "least bad" at the moment, but says It's a crap shoot at the end of the day, just cross your fingers. Sounds exactly like the situation with LED/LCD TVs aka panel lottery.
@Xizor: Good, I thought it was just mu luck with appliances and electronics recently. I've had two bad German made OZB favourite BOSH dishwashers one after another. The SMEG oven was a terrible expensive mistake. Also some expensive furniture from HN. You don't get what you pay for any more.
@loropy9: I'm sorry to hear it and you're not alone with the German made Bosch dishwasher. We've had one for 7 months and the control panel on the top is cracking for no apparent reason and some of the button mechanisms get stuck when pressed. Also, the rubber seal at the bottom of the door has warped and rubs loudly when you open and close it. Not happy.
Thankfully all getting sorted under warranty but still not good enough.
@loropy9: unfortunately I have the same issue but with
a newly installed fujitsu
ticks pops and gurgling. I have two older dakins one running on 410a the other is on R22. They are much better built and run much better than the fujitsu, maybe it's the new r33 refrigerant being used on the current crop of heatpumps.
The build quality of the fujitsu is lacking, not to mention the fujitsu going into de-iceing mode considerbly more often than the dakins. I'm not pushing anyone toward dakins as I've been told the newer dakin units aren't built as well as previous.
@loropy9: The performance specs on the Avanti Plus are fantastic but I 100% agree the plastic creaks and groans with temperature change and the motor that drives the bottom flap is incredibly noisy meaning every time it gets to temp in winter and goes into standby mode you get the groan of the motor as the flap returns to horizontal position. Such a shame given the efficiency is unbeatable but I would not buy another MHI.
From what I know, MHI is superior and usually more expensive than Mitsubishi Electric.
Mitsubishi Electric is definitely more expensive.
Huh? Not my experience. MHI and ME are generally pretty equivalent for similarly sized units. The major differential is ME units have much better smart integration features.
so why is MHI more superior than ME? I noticed i just got ME installed and it seems fine to me
What are people's opinions on ducted vs multiple splits for air conditioning a home?
Also interested in this.
i would prefer multiple split for reason cheaper and easier to maintain. when it breaks just throw and buy new one.
This is exactly what my installer suggested and I went with it.
cheaper to run yes. Initial cost, hell no, try and get a quote for both. Remember though if the outdoor unit fails with multisplits, all fails until the lone outdoor unit is repaired. Better to get multiple individual units (cost about the same, or less) and have varying sizes based on the coverage you want. Unless of course aesthetic matters that much that you don't want those units populating a certain part of your yard.
I have both and rarely use the ducted. Turn it on only when guests come home.
Ducted uses 5kwh vs 0.5kwh for split per hour. Daily use with four split uses 26kwh. Used the ducted for one day and costed 74kwh.
Sounds like your ducted isn't zoned very well.
I have three zones. It's more to do with a leaky 45 year old house.
Ducted tends to be more expensive to run, muti-zoned systems are fiddly and generally don’t support the number of zones you’d want (or gets expensive)
I personally prefer one to one split, easier to maintain and you can have rooms running their own modes (e.g. one room cooling, another heating or fan only etc).
Split systems are much more energy efficient also :)
I have a large open plan living room & kitchen, however the current Fujitsu unit doesn't distribute the air as effectively (esp. in winter) as much as I'd like. I'm wondering if a smaller ducted system just for that area (70sqm?) and keeping the splits in the bedrooms would be viable.
Perhaps a multi with two heads? Since it's the same area you don't need to worry about them on different modes, and one remote should work for both heads and would be easy to keep them in sync.
I guess a ducted could work… but a cooling + heating unit and installation can be pricey. Assuming you have enough room for the actual ducts? (those are huge!)
@Lastora: Yes, plenty of room in the ceiling cavity, I'd want to put 4-6 ducts I'm guessing in the main area and a couple in the hall.
For a 4 bedroom house you'd need at least 5 outdoor units. That's nuts. You can have 5 zones and have returns in each room, which would allow you to condition a single room if you wanted to. Alternatively use a 5 room multihead.
I'm moving from gas to heat pumps and had 3 of my 4 installed yesterday. They are noisier than I expected - i'm used to gas ducted heating which is pretty damn quiet as the fan is Somewhere Else.
For the remaining 3 rooms (2 large, one bathroom) I'm going to get a mini ducted system as it is better for our house layout (don't really want/can't have the head units in those spaces) plus I think it will be much quieter as all the heat exchange unit/fan will be in the ceiling.
Ducted is way costlier to maintain and clean. Looks good though.
Multiple splits are most energy efficient, whereas ducted rcac are moderately efficient and aesthetic.
I really don't give much of a crap about the aesthetics, maybe in a small room but not in a large shared area.
I don't like how ducted usually only comes with 2 zones, and you get charged up the wahzoo if you want more. I also don't like how there's only 2 temp sensors for a two storey house, again you can get more but prepare to be shafted.
On the other hand, I don't like the idea of having 5 outdoor units, if I could have 4 pslits in the hous but only a couple of outdoor units I would be fine. Also I don't think having the inconvenience of turning multiple units on is an issue, it's a function of having the control and if you really wanted to you could probably sync them up using something like home assistant
You dont care about aesthetics but also mention you dont like the idea of outdoor units….thats exactly what I mean by aesthetics, i.e wall mounted head unit inside and outdoor mounted compressor unit.
Its a case of trading off energy efficiency for aesthetics. However, you can improve the efficiency of the ducted rcac by getting the ceiling and duct pipe insulation upgraded.
@voo123: The reason I don't like the outdoor units is because they are big and close off the path around the outside of the house, not really for aesthetic purposes
@Jackson: Well yeah, the splits are bulky and take up space hence aren't aesthetically appealing. Probably Should have made my post more detailed to avoid any confusion.
You can achieve this with multi head units. I've got 4 indoor units running off a single outdoor unit.
Weird you're talking about aesthetics yet lament the cost of additional zones. Zone functionality isn't created in software - you need additional hardware to make it happen. It makes complete sense for addiitonal zones to cost more than what is provided in a standard package. Functionality and good design costs. Get multiple splits for less and suck up the aesthetics. Or pay more and get a multihead. There's no free lunch.
@bargainshooter: I didn't mention aesthetics until someone else did. Personally I have zero issues with having a split system inside, they looks fine. Might be an issues if you planned to hang a painting there but apart from that I can't see an issue with them. On the other hnd having a box taking up my half metre set back so I can't take my wheelie bin out back is a PITA.
I might have to look into this multi head business, can any unit be converted to multi head or do you need to buy specific ones?
As far as being good design, it can be argued that a system that uses more energy and is less flexible is not good design. I live most of my life in a house with ducted air and the first thing to go was the splitter, and it was too expensive to fix so we just heated or cooked the entire house. There's quite a few reasons to dodge ducted IMO. It's like climate control in a car if I am within arms reach of the controls I don't need a computer deciding when the AC or heater should be on, but it's impossible these days to get a car that has a normal AC control like the old days
@Jackson: Guys, what's an average cost of install for a one storey house with brick veneer?? Thanks.
@Naigrabzo: For a 2.5kW used to be about $500, but with the COVID tax / tradies price gouging, it may have gone up.
@Ham Dragon: Thanks. I was quoted $3000 (including supply of 7kw Daikin unit). I think the install is probably $1000 which sounds like the tradie wants to earn $2000 per day. ;)
@Naigrabzo: In the current market it doesn't sound super unreasonable, especially if it's just a single unit you're installing, and if it needs it's own electrical circuit. Usually it's two people installing them, one of whom will be a licenced electrician, or they send guys who install the system and then a sparky comes later to connect it to the board & check it over.
@Ham Dragon: Fair call. Yes the 7kW system will need it's own circuit for sure. The house only has single phase as well…
i built my house in 2017 and after doing alot of research i ended up installing 3 x 2.5kw in rooms, 1 x 7kw in living and now recently bought a 2.5kw Samsung split system for theatre. Reason why i chose split over ducted system for the whole house is i can run atleast 2 rooms for free with split system in any sunny/warm day from a 5kw solar system during summer where as an average Ducted system consumes a lot of energy even if its running in a single room. I am happy to share my energy bill since 2018 which hasnt gone over $150 for any period. Keeping the house cool and warm during different seasons is much easier in my case!!!!
It's hard to compare this although I agree with you on principle. For example, I have never paid any electricity bills due to my solar but have ducted which never gets turned off.
Built 1 house with splits in all bedrooms plus living. Cheap to buy/install and cheap to run.
last house I built I went RC ducted.
Ducted will cost more to run, so I would zone the bedrooms and living areas a separately.
Next house will also have ducted. Possibly heat pump hydronic slab heating as gas will be too expensive in future.
Ducted quieter and less in your face. Heating from splits is just shiet, just too breezy when trying to heat up a whole room.
Cooling using splits is nice enough but not good for heating.
I am actually thinking of getting slab heating also, as I have planned for a heat pump for my new place (already bought it actually for hot water). Do you know if it's just a matter if connecting the hot water to the slab and having a controller?
No, you need a dedicated heat pump for hydronic slab.
For now, gas hydronic is cheaper over a 5-10 year period but long term heat pump may be cheaper.
Downside of hydronic heat pump is that it can’t run hydronic panels or towel rails effectively as these need 80deg C heating which heat pumps can’t supply.
@JimB: Better getting fully Electric Boilers now that are ultra compact and efficient and cost less than a heat pump and they can run off solar panels.
What Gas Hydronic heating setup have you got. Wall Panel or under floor?
@[Deactivated]: Both in slab and wall panels/towel rails.
Only issue I see with fully electric boiler is the running costs.
In the middle of winter and/or mornings when you need the heating, solar provides little, if any benefits.
Fortunately in Melbourne, gas is still cheap and still fairly cost effective for hydronic heating.
@JimB: In the US they have electric boilers almost completely running off solar in very cold parts of the state. I agree that gas is cheaper but if you can spring for a 10kW solar array with battery that would work out well cost savings wise.
If you have Hydronic for both your slab and wall panels, doesn't the slab normally only require water heated to 30 degrees whereas wall panels require 50 - 60 degrees?
If so, how have you got it setup to heat 2 different temperatures from the same boiler?
@[Deactivated]: Slab heating requires water to be ~50deg C and wall panels ~80deg C.
A partage box can supply different water temp to the slab and panels at the same time.
I asked my installer how it does this and apparently the partage box takes some of the return (cooled) water from the slab and mixes it with the 80deg heated water to the slab. That's the simple explanation.
If you have 1 boiler that does 50deg all the time (or have 2 boilers for separate temps), you can omit the partage box and preset the boiler to 50deg. If I had my time again, I'd get 2 boilers, one for slab and one for panels. I don't think the cost difference would be that much and provide additional redundancy.
The pump in my boiler failed recently and being in the middle of winter, took 2 weeks to get fixed. For those 2 weeks, we had to use reverse cycle ducted heating. This reinforced how much superior hydronic slab and panel heating is.
@JimB: Did you put your in-floor heating in the 'slab' or above in the screed?
Supposedly the new technique of in screed heating is more efficient, has less loss of heat downwards due to the insulating layer between the screed and the slab and operates at a lower water temp.
@[Deactivated]: In slab but installed some 50mm polystyrene under the slab.
Thought about the in screed with insulating barrier, however the issue was that would require 2 concrete pours.
The photo on the link is not accurate. That photo looks like the screed is 30mm thick. This would not be feasible. It has to be minimum 50mm for 2 reasons- thin screeds won't heat up the room and secondly, thin screeds crack. I also polished my concrete, and am not sure if 50mm screed is suitable.
I'd definitely get hydronic slab heating & polished concrete again if I ever build a house again. Can run with heat pumps (or electric boilers as you mentioned).
@JimB: Noted and thanks for the insight as I am looking at In Floor for my next build
I would prefer Screed vs In Slab as I had a friend that did In Slab and when the slab cracked it damaged the water pipes which meant the In Slab heating was unusable throughout the house
@[Deactivated]: Jesus, what a drama!
How/why did the slab crack?
I wonder what brand hydronic pipes was used.
@JimB: Don't know how it happened, but supposedly it wasn't long after being built.
They are quite wealthy and built first and second floor in solid concrete so cost was not an issue. Only problem is when the hydronic water pipes damage when they are embedded in the slab, there is nothing you can do to fix it (from what I have been told).
Curious with yours, is there some kind of calibration / pressure test you can perform to know the pipes are not leaking water within the slab?
@[Deactivated]: We pressure tested it before the concrete was poured.
Haven't done so since.
If there is a leak- 2 things will happen. You will lose pressure (and water) in the closed system.
Secondly, if it was leaking in the slab, I should be able to see wear it leaked as a wet slab changes colour (I have light coloured concrete). This wouldn't help if it leaked in the bathroom where I have tiles.
@JimB: I have never had a pressure test done on our system.
Did you watch how it was done? Is the pressure test an easy DIY job?
@[Deactivated]: They basically fill it up with water and use a machine to test the pressure.. lol
If you look at your boiler, it will have an analogue pressure gauge which shows the pressure. My gauge has a green range where the pressure should be.
Under slab hydronic heating is the bees knees but quite expensive and the traditional hydronic slab heating uses gas so its not a good idea if going down the all efficient all electric route. Im not sure if heat pump slab heating exists yet.
Its far more important to solar orientate the home correctly to utilise the sun to heat the home for free. Other considerations includes eaves and double glazed glass and upgraded windows and insulation.
@JimB: More to break down in heat pumps and they are not efficient in very cold climates.
Would stick with fully electric boilers for the future (to pair with solar) as very easy to replace and no moving parts or compressed coolant leak issues.
@[Deactivated]: Yes, heard heat pumps aren't very reliable and agree they aren't efficient in the middle of winter.
I'll stick with Gas as that's what I have at the moment and fingers crossed, gas prices won't double in the near future.
@JimB: I know its crazy… we have some of the largest gas reserves in the world but the Water Melons want to abolish all Gas connections to homes and stop any further gas mining.
I expect prices WILL double or more with Water Melons in Gov atm.
@[Deactivated]: I don't think it will double in Victoria (fingers crossed)
I think at some stage, the Government will step in to ensure that some of the gas will stopped being exported cheaply.
@JimB: Fully agree. They need to implement (as of yesterday) at a National level (not state by state) a MIN 20% local reservation and regulated pricing set by the Gov.
If mining companies want Aus Minerals, they need to play be Aus rules that WE set
Dunno why someone negged you.
Probably because they have 5 splits.
I’m just giving my view previously having had (in order)
Gas ducted
Splits
RC AC ducted & gas hydronic slab/panel heating
Guys, what's an average cost of install for a one storey house with brick veneer?? Thanks.
For what?
Go for multiple splits. I have ducted heating (3 stars and without zoning system) and while it gets the house warm, I would have to wait for at least 1 hour for that.
I got 3 aircons installed literally yesterday (2 fujitsu (2.5kw) and 1 panasonic(5kw)), and I can tell you that the Fujitsu blows hot air hotter than Panasonic. The Panasonic one is mainly for the living room and I just wanted to have it mainly for cooling. I will test cooling when summer comes.
Why didn't you get a Fujitsu for the living room as well? Why mixing the brands?
Because the good guys didn't deliver the unit and i have the installation scheduled early in the morning (the next day).
I immediately asked to swap for Panasonic since it's the other alternative available.
Zen wisdom:. Confucious say man who mix brands is like man who mixes drinks. Colourful results will ensue.
From an energy efficiency perspective, it's multiple split systems > multi head split > ducted RCAC > gas
Yep it doesn't seem to be widely understood but the larger the compressor the lower the efficiency. 2/2.5kW splits typically get EER of ~5-7 but once you get up to the 7 or 8kW it can be in the low 3s ie. twice the power for the same output.
Have a fully ducted system and it is cheaper than two split systems plus warms the whole house. We have zones set up and it’s all automatic. MHI system. Absolutely love it and way better than those ugly systems sticking out of the wall.
I have a 20kw 3 phase ducted system in a 5 bedroom house . Alternative option was having 7 aircon units outside house . One in each bedroom . Media room . Living room . Obviously look disgusting . I have a 14kw solar system . With the aircon running 15 hours a day . And pool etc only pay $0-60 for quarterly bills in Queensland . Would never go back to split systems
How many zones you got for your ducted system? What did you spend? I am thinking I could do ducted upstairs with 2 zones, then maybe downstairs so a multi split with 2 units for the lounge rooms only. Also the maybe a split for the basement. Otherwise it's 3 zone ducted one for each level, but that means I am cooling a few rooms I usually don't use
Must have a really inefficient house to have to run the aircon that hard
Not at all he doesn’t cost me anything I’ll just run at (profanity) her all day money is no issue here baby
What would be the installation cost for a split AC?
How longs a piece of string, last time I did it few years ago 500-700 with certificates for warranty.
Ducted looks better as it much more hidden compared to a split. I went with splits because it's cheaper to run and if one unit dies I still have the others
But how many units do you have outside?
Wondering how good Bunnings are with their beat it by 10% if I was looking at getting 4
At $729 price beat each for each, plus $100 manufacturer cash back, effective price would only be $629
Bunnings done it, that’s why I post here
No stock with the link provided for any Bunnings in WA
Armadale is the only store in WA that sells aircons but (for some reason) they don't allow Click-and-Collect for them. If you set your store to Armadale you'll see them listed as Available under 'In store' but unavailable under 'Click and Collect' and 'Delivery'
Might be worth noting this is MHI and not Mitsubishi Electric, they are different manufacturers.