Does Mileage on an Electric Car Matter Less?

Hi guys.

Sorry if this is an already discussed topic.

I am in market for a new car, and obviously nowadays there is an option to go with an EV, especially with the high petrol prices as everyone is aware.

I do a lot of highway miles on my commute and drive my car around 30,000km a year.

I was just wondering if a high mileage on a EV would matter less than with an normal ICE car, and if a EV would be a better option in the long term for someone that does a higher mileage in general (depreciation, less service, reduced running costs etc).

Thank you in advance for all.

Comments

  • +9

    High mileage on an EV means it's had a lot of charge cycles.

    That's what will probably be a future issue with EV's.

  • +6

    Brakes, CV joints, suspension bushings will all need the same maintenance as those in a ICE car.

    Battery wear is still a bit unknown, particularly for newer designs.

    A well designed EV drivetrain (motor, reduction gear) will outlast any ICE drivetrain by a big margin. I believe there’s a Tesla Model S with over 650,000km on the same drive unit.

    • +5

      Brakes will need less maintenance, regen braking means you use them less.

    • +1

      Yes and no.
      Regenerative brakes = less brake usage
      CV joints - I'm not familiar with how the motors work / if they run CVs or if they have hub mounted motors, but I'll count that
      Suspension bushings etc - 100%

      Battery wear also 100%, but at least the batteries can get recycled into less intensive applications

      • +2

        Whoops, I forgot about the reduction in brake usage. EVs do weigh more though, which means increase load on the brakes when you do use them. I’m sure it still works out in the EV’s favour though.

        IIRC a few EVs with hub mounted motors exist, but it’s not very common. As to why, I suspect the extra unsprung mass would be bad for handling, and the need to run flexible high voltage cable to the hub motors would be a potential safety risk.

        An interesting note about batteries - because it’s almost certain that cell cost (and mass!) per kWh will greatly decrease in future, I suspect that battery replacements for more popular EVs will become quite affordable. I’d be careful buying something niche or unpopular, as the aftermarket support may not be present for it in future.

        • Unless Elon is creating weight saving by not fitting brakes (insert thinking man or dave chappelle modern problems meme).

  • +2

    The only things that need replacing on an electric car are its tyres, brakes, battery and maybe some washer fluid.

    If the battery does drop you could be up for $10-$20k in replacement cells.
    Although the likelihood of longer term failures is much lower than Internal combustion cars which have 100x more moving parts.

    Personally i'd take a 1 off hit of 10-20k and know i'll have 10 years of relatively risk free driving than multiple hits to the gearbox, engine, exhaust, coolant system, oil changes etc.

    • coolant system

      I don't know about other EV's, but I was reading about Tesla batteries recently, and they have a coolant system running past every cell up and down the battery, so I guess that's also a risk for EV's.

      • This is true but i guess as it wouldn't be as exposed to extreme heat, oils and other fluids that can break down pipes it would be less likely to leak/fail.

        • +1

          Also significantly less vibration in the cooling system.

  • +2

    Also depends on which electric car.

    First gen Nissan Leaf. Batteries are air cooled and 24kw degrades rather quickly.

    Tesla you lose 5 - 10% in the first year and then you get another big drop like 10 years in. Super charging also doesn't help.

    It is both a function of charge cycles and time.

    Good luck.

  • +2

    Mileage also contributes to wear and tear on mechanical parts like tyres, brakes, bearings, suspension, axles, etc

  • OP which EVs are you considering?

    I don't have an EV but I'd be considering the manufacturer's history with EVs

    • I am looking closely at the Polestar 2 at the moment, but nothing near concrete yet. Thanks

      • almost same price as model 3 and I saw a couple of youtube comparison video, didn't like polestar 2 much

  • +1

    EVs have less moving parts so typically would need less mechanical repair.

    Battery degradation is the biggest factor with more kms. The more you charge cycle the shorter the battery life (typically) and fast charges are probably worse than slow charge because they generate a lot more heat.

    Resale with high kms is a bit of an unknown, but I suspect it’ll take a it if a hit because general population feel that ‘batteries don’t last’ and are the most expensive part to replace.

  • +1

    Lucky you are not in Vic. High mileage in an EV means higher Rego to pay down here in the "Garden State"

    • +1

      Well eventually government need to shift the tax from one end to another.

    • No here in VIC you pay 2.5c per every klm you rack up for EV —— PHEV is 2 cents a KLM so you would be up for TAX of $750 large….

      You would also save in petrol vs electricty

    • this is one of the reasons i'm wary of EVs, the gov will just tax the shit out of it as soon as EVs overtake ICE vehicles in terms of ownership, how bad it will be, i don't know, but i'm guessing they will make up the difference to the fuel tax and it will only be marginally cheaper to run compared to an ICE car, if it is cheaper at all.

      chairman dan showing his true colours, yet again.

  • It's interesting that no one here is talking about the newer generation of batteries that are in electric cars called LFP (Lithium iron phosphate). In lab testing, these batteries can sustain up to 1 million KM mileage with extremely minimal battery degradation.

    These batteries are already being used in the Tesla Model 3 2022, and the BYD Atto 3.

    • LiFePo. Great option in my opinion.

      • -2

        But, but what about all the whiners. How will they complain about cobalt!

  • +1

    Has anyone done the numbers on the running costs on an EV vs ICE?

    Eg. Travelling 700-800km/week in an EV vs a ICE?

    Was thinking about it this morning on my drive…. L/100km makes sense to me… how many kwh/100km? How many kwh does a charge pull from the house? etc…

    • Depending on the vehicle size/weight batteries range from tiny (20kWh) to huge (100kWh in a Model X). I believe the Rivian/F150 lightning will have more than 100kWh battery to get range nice and high.

      Model 3 has around 60kWh and 450km range. (Tesla fans take it easy, I don’t know the actual numbers). Do some sums on that to work out your costs.

      Put that into perspective and our household usage with pool is under 30kWh per day.

    • +7

      My use case fits your example. I do about 800km per week, 90/10 highway/suburban driving.

      My previous car was a Prius that used 4.5L/100km on my commute. At current petrol prices, that would be 4.5x$2 = $9/100km or $72 a week.

      My current car, a Tesla Model 3, uses 15kWh/100km on the same commute. My offpeak electricity tariff is 12c/kWh, so 15x12c= $1.80/100km or $14.40 per week.

      Total savings - $57.60 a week. Keep in mind, this is versus a very fuel efficient hybrid car, if you had a normal ICEV you would be using more like 7L/100km and spending $112 a week on petrol.

      • +1

        In Victoria for your 800km you’ll cop another 2.5 cents per km govt tax - $20 for your EV but does not apply to the hybrids.

        • +1

          True. I’m in NSW so I don’t pay that till 2027.

          • +1

            @Dogsrule: Great input through this discussion, thanks. There’s a lot to consider in a fast changing landscape and technology. I might stick with my ultra reliable low cost 2012 Renault Koleos for another year - mighn’t be needing to go anywhere anyway. For my last off-road outback interstate experience I rented a Prado for two weeks and left the Koleos with them. The roads would have killed our soft roader! So maybe it’s an EV, and rent a serious off roader when needed. After the pandemic!

            • @bbinc: No worries, I’ve been through all 3 major vehicle types (standard ICE, hybrid and now EV) so it’s been interesting to compare the strengths and weaknesses of all.

              In my opinion, right now the most practical and sensible cars to buy are Toyota hybrids - they last forever, require only basic maintenance, have genuinely exceptional fuel economy and are very affordable + great resale value.

              I might stick with my ultra reliable low cost 2012 Renault Koleos for another year - mighn’t be needing to go anywhere anyway.

              Good idea, I would never suggest that anyone should replace a perfectly good car that suits their needs just to have the latest and greatest.

              That being said, I don't practice what I preach :)

              So maybe it’s an EV, and rent a serious off roader when needed.

              Makes more sense than buying an otherwise impractical car just for the 1% of driving you need the extra capabilities.

      • Wow that is a big saving. Thanks for the example. Yes, there is no doubt it would save a lot on fuel, but what I am more concerned about is the long term effects on a EV for doing high mileage I guess.

        • Putting aside the common components shared by all cars such as wheel bearings, suspension components etc, high mileage due to highway driving (exactly what I do) will be easy on any car, including EV’s. EV’s have single speed gearboxes and induction or permanent magnet electric motors contained in a common case on one or both of the axles.

          They are basically indestructible and designed to last 1 million km or more:

          https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/electrek.co/2018/10/15/tesla…

          The only thing you have to look after is the battery. If you buy one with an LFP battery like a base Tesla Model 3, they should last up to 1 million km. Most other EV’s including the higher grade Model 3’s use a different type of battery called NCA or NCM which should last around 500,000km if treated correctly.

      • +1

        Wow… thats pretty impressive saving. Never really considered an EV as figured it was just as expensive on electricity as it was for ICE.

        Just the initial high price of an EV is hard to swallow… particularly when I got a ripping deal on my current car, and hopefully I'm not doing these kinds of KMs for years on years.

        But this post has certainly opened my eyes! Thanks!

        • It definitely doesn’t make sense to buy an EV to replace an already good ICE, more so when you actually need to replace your old car you should consider EV, and even then the high purchase price may not make sense depending on your situation.

          Glad to help bust some myths though, some of them are fossil fuel industry talking points (i.e nonsense).

  • +2

    You'll get a better return on your capital by buying a small CC ICE and investing the rest in the leading EV brand.

    • CC ICE?

      • Cubic centimetre

        • +1

          I figured it wasn’t corn chips.

    • +1

      Very true. I love my Tesla but a brand new $30k Corolla Hybrid sedan using 4L/100km would have a lower TCO. Invest the balance in a basic mutual fund and you’ll be way ahead overall.

      • Corolla Hybrid

        And a normal brand new ICE Corolla will be an even better investment.

        Hybrids DO USE fuel. No fuel, no electrons, no go.

        • Uh, yeah? I owned a Prius for 11 years and 350,000km, I’m well aware they use petrol. That’s all they use other than oil, filters and coolant though.

          With a few exceptions such as very low mileage drivers, Toyota hybrids have a lower TCO than non hybrid versions now, the small price premium is paid back multiple times even including a potential HV battery replacement at around year 12.

          • @Dogsrule: Excellent, we agree.

            Hybrids use fuel. No fuel no go.

            • @LFO: Glad I was able to enlighten you. You should buy one, they will save you a lot on your petrol bill compared to a non-hybrid.

              • @Dogsrule:

                Glad I was able to enlighten you.

                Sorry nothing new nor enlightening about hybrids using fuel.

                Using less does not mean using none.
                And using a little less does not justify paying more and carrying more weight every single meter of traveled road.

                By the way the Prius is a fantastic beast. From day one back in … 1997??.
                Unfortunately not all hybrids are made equal.
                Prius shines because is the best hybrid not because is a hybrid. Very different.

                • @LFO:

                  By the way the Prius is a fantastic beast. From day one back in … 1997??.

                  Correct. There have been 4 generations since then, I owned a 3rd gen version.

                  Unfortunately not all hybrids are made equal.
                  Prius shines because is the best hybrid not because is a hybrid. Very different.

                  You’re literally arguing with yourself. Read my original comment:

                  a brand new $30k Corolla Hybrid sedan using 4L/100km would have a lower TCO.

                  The Corolla hybrid uses the entire Prius hybrid system, the ICE, the transaxle, the HV battery, everything. Its nothing more than a Prius in a Corolla body. I’m well aware that hybrids made by other companies suck, which is why I was clear to specify a Toyota hybrid.

                  Using less does not mean using none.
                  And using a little less does not justify paying more and carrying more weight every single meter of traveled road.

                  A Corolla hybrid is $30,890 D/A in NSW, while a non hybrid version is $28,830, a $2060 difference which will quickly be recouped by lower fuel costs and better resale value. The difference in weight between them is 10kg. 10kg! The fuel consumption difference however, is 2.4L/100km:

                  https://www.toyota.com.au/-/media/toyota/main-site/vehicle-h…

                  At current fuel prices, the price difference will be recouped in 40,000km, not mentioning the superior driving characteristics of the hybrid in city/suburban driving. After the break-even point, you'll save roughly $4.8k on fuel every 100,000km. Your version of “a little less” is different from mine.

                  • @Dogsrule:

                    Your version of “a little less” is different from mine.

                    Absolutely!

                    1. ~$2000 "difference" is ~7% of the full value of your proposed car. Try getting that percentage off when buying a brand new car.

                    2. Fuel consumption "differences" are very arguable. Only having long night driving versus daily "taxi/Über" city driving will kill any standards. Sporty driving versus Ms Daisy plodding will as well.

                    3. 40,000km city/suburban is a hell of driving time … unless a "taxi/Über" driving situation. On top of that fuel costs could be a business expense without buying an expensive hybrid (+FBT too?).

                    4. "Saving" money after having to drive 40,000km to break even sounds not cost effective to me … and paying ~$28,000 to start the ball rolling … and rego … and insurance … and servicing … and spares. Sorry, not interested.

                    Its nothing more than a Prius in a Corolla body.

                    Is that is the case why will anyone buy a Prius then?.
                    And pay a lot more for it.
                    Why?

                    Bet you a Corolla is a lot more different than a Prius.

                    • @LFO:

                      ~$2000 "difference" is ~7% of the full value of your proposed car.

                      Who cares when you save $4.8k every 100,000km?

                      Fuel consumption "differences" are very arguable.

                      Not anymore. Toyota hybrids have risen above petty internet debates and proven their excellent fuel economy over the past 25 years and 17 million examples sold. The owners forum on Whirlpool is full of people getting <4L/100km.

                      40,000km city/suburban is a hell of driving time …

                      According to the ABS, the average driver does that every 3 years.

                      "Saving" money after having to drive 40,000km to break even sounds not cost effective to me … and paying ~$28,000 to start the ball rolling … and rego … and insurance … and servicing … and spares. Sorry, not interested.

                      Like I said, 3 years is all it takes, and the average car lasts for 20 years or so. As for the cost, $28-30k is the going price for any decent brand small car these days. Welcome to 2022, you may as well buy the most cost effective one.

                      Is that is the case why will anyone buy a Prius then?.
                      And pay a lot more for it.
                      Why?

                      Nobody does. Toyota have been averaging 3 Prius sales a month (literally). It became obsolete when the Corolla hybrid was released.

                      Bet you a Corolla is a lot more different than a Prius.

                      The Corolla hatch body is a little smaller, the sedan is a bit bigger. Identical engine and hybrid system, the part numbers are all identical. Fuel economy ratings too.

                      Anyway, you're free to buy anything you want, Toyota won't miss you, they can't build them fast enough as it is.

                      • @Dogsrule:

                        Anyway, you're free to buy anything you want, Toyota won't miss you, they can't build them fast enough as it is.

                        I will and vice-versa.

                        Toyota does not need me and Toyota will not live off you buying a Prius every +11 years …

                        Once again, forcing yourself to keep a car so it eventually clocks 100,000km so you could then start saving in fuel is not my choice for a good investment.
                        How about a dreaded write-off just on 99,999km … all for nothing ;-(

                        Enjoy your hybrid and its "very high" fuel economy … after the 100,000km mark.

                        I will enjoy my EV. From odometer showing 000,001km and beyond.

                        EV= not a drop of fuel. Zero. Zilch. Nada

                        • +1

                          @LFO:

                          Once again, forcing yourself to keep a car so it eventually clocks 100,000km so you could then start saving in fuel is not my choice for a good investment.

                          There are different types in this world. Those that trade in their cars around 100000km because it’s ‘almost dead’ or they just want more new and shiny. Then there are those that buy a car, often used, and keep it until they need something with a different style or the old one starts costing more that it’s worth in repairs.

                          100,000km is nothing in a modern car. They’ll last 2-3x that easily. having less fuel usage WILL be more important in the future.

                        • @LFO:

                          Enjoy your hybrid and its "very high" fuel economy … after the 100,000km mark.

                          I will enjoy my EV. From odometer showing 000,001km and beyond.

                          EV= not a drop of fuel. Zero. Zilch. Nada

                          I understand now why you've been so consistently wrong - you didn't read the thread from the top, you just saw my 6th (!) comment and went off half-cocked without understanding the context it was written in.

                          I own a Tesla Model 3 Long Range. I wrote 5 comments about it in this thread before I mentioned anything about hybrids. The Prius I owned has been passed onto a family member where it still does yeoman duty.

                          I absolutely love the thing and will never go back to an ICE vehicle, hybrid or not, but you're dead wrong if you think you'll be saving money by buying an EV over a $30k Toyota hybrid - the upfront purchase price of even the cheapest, shortest range EV is the $45k BYD Atto 3, which is ironic considering you said this:

                          "Saving" money after having to drive 40,000km to break even sounds not cost effective to me … and paying ~$28,000 to start the ball rolling … and rego … and insurance … and servicing … and spares. Sorry, not interested

                          You need to read before you speak, especially when:

                          1. My commentary wasn't even directed toward you.

                          2. You have no long term comparative experience between Toyota hybrids and EV's like I do.

                          • @Dogsrule:

                            I own a Tesla Model 3 Long Range

                            But aren't you a Toyota hybrid car dealer/salesperson? From another thread?

                            It will then make sense, hybrids cost more, still use fuel and need ICE servicing. In short: more profit per vehicle overall.

                            You need to read before you speak,

                            I will and I do but right now I am typing not speaking.
                            Perhaps you could try too.

                            Anyhow: hybrids in 2022 = very bad investment.
                            EVs are coming. Cheap and innovative.
                            Invest on present/current tech not the past.
                            Or get a cheaper, brand new proven and reliable ICE to keep you driving

                            • @LFO:

                              But aren't you a Toyota hybrid car dealer/salesperson? From another thread?

                              No, you're thinking of a user called 'spackbace'. He's a self admitted Toyota salesman.

                              It will then make sense, hybrids cost more, still use fuel and need ICE servicing. In short: more profit per vehicle overall.

                              False. There is a concept called 'Total Cost of Ownership', commonly abbreviated as 'TCO'. This measure takes all costs into account over the life of the product, and due to its $15K lower purchase price vs the cheapest EV (BYD Atto 3), a cheap Toyota hybrid still has a lower TCO unless you are a very high mileage driver.

                              Anyhow: hybrids in 2022 = very bad investment.

                              False, unless you buy an expensive one. For instance, don't buy a $80k Lexus ES300h like I was originally going to do, buy an $80K M3 LR.

                              EVs are coming. Cheap and innovative.
                              Invest on present/current tech not the past.

                              The lower end of the market is not well served by EV's yet, and I guarantee you are unable to give me an example that proves otherwise. You're not the only person that keeps tabs on the Aus EV market.

                              Or get a cheaper, brand new proven and reliable ICE to keep you driving

                              They don't exist in 2022! The cheapest small car is the Kia Cerato at $27.5K!
                              Double the fuel consumption, servicing is twice as expensive and they are less reliable and have shorter lifespans than Toyota's legendary 1 million km taxi tech.

                              You haven't caught up with the reality of 2022 car prices yet, it's not 2018 and you can't buy a base model Cerato/i30 for $20k anymore.

                              By the way, what EV do you have? I'd like to hear your experiences. I've done a comparison of my electricity/fuel cost between my M3/Prius here, and here's a general driving review.

  • who cares about re-sale. you're doing a fair bit of kms, and the car will be worth sfa when you sell

  • +1

    To answer your question OP, EV’s have a huge advantage over ICEV’s in city driving as ICE fuel consumption increases significantly whereas EV electricity consumption decreases due to regen braking.

    ICE’s also suffer accelerated wear in city driving, EV’s don’t (suspension wear aside). The difference between the two decreases on the highway, constant speeds are much kinder to ICE’s, reducing fuel consumption and wear. Energy consumption increases with EV’s due to lack of regen braking, but they are still way cheaper to run as you can see from my example earlier in the thread.

    • ICE’s also suffer accelerated wear in city driving, EV’s don’t (suspension wear aside). The difference between the two decreases on the highway, constant speeds are much kinder to ICE’s, reducing fuel consumption and wear. Energy consumption increases with EV’s due to lack of regen braking, but they are still way cheaper to run as you can see from my example earlier in the thread.

      Ummm. On the right track, doesn’t sound right. An EV will use a similar amount of energy to move as an ICE at highway speeds. Both use most of their energy accelerating, especially from stopped. Accelerating is where most wear and tear happens too.

      Where EVs make a big difference is, as you say, in atop start traffic as they will make energy back when slowing down.

  • +1

    So the difference is that ICE’s have characteristics that cause them to have wildly varying efficiency in different operating conditions.

    They have a throttle plate that impedes air flow and requires energy to pull air past. During highway driving the ecu can fully open the throttle plate, wind down the injectors and change up to a high gear to greatly reduce this loss.

    Next, they have intake valves that require energy to pull air though, and exhaust valves that require energy to push exhaust gas past during the cycles of ICE operation. The energy lost to these factors are called ‘pumping losses’. During steady state highway driving a high gear ratio can be selected which reduces the amount of times this occurs (lower rpm) as well as reducing friction from the numerous moving parts in an ICE.

    Finally, during acceleration events (i.e city driving) they require a richer air/fuel mixture to prevent pre- combustion (so called ‘knocking’), which they do not need in steady state highway cruising.

    All these things plus more combine to greatly increase efficiency and reduce fuel consumption of ICEs during highway driving. You’ll see basically every car gets better fuel economy on the highway cycle of the government test vs city cycle, even though more energy is lost to wind resistance.

    Electric motors on the other hand have remarkably consistent efficiency regardless of operating conditions, so the higher wind resistance at high speeds becomes a significant factor in overall energy consumption. For example, Tesla’s permanent magnet motor has a max of 96% efficiency, but still manages 92% efficiency at 100% output:

    https://insideevs.com/photo/4082401/tesla-motor-efficiency-s…

  • Can maintenance for an electric vehicle only be done by the manufacturer/dealer at present? Or are there independent mechanics that service electric vehicles?

    • service electric vehicles

      Not too clear as what "service" will be.
      Something expensive to hook up EV owners perhaps?
      Scary tactics?

      Remember how much a dealership will push "ICE servicing" to be done by their own dealership. Printing money.

      • Just buy a Tesla, no scheduled servicing needed. A brake check every couple of years is suggested but not required, that’s it.

  • Lots of kilometers = lots of wear and tear.

    Anything really. ICE or EV.

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