Help a car & mechanical noob buy his first car!

Hi OzBargain community,

I'm looking to buy my first car, however I'm a total car and mechanical noob, so I’m really after any advice and suggestions I can get!
Being a young male I’m statistically more likely to be involved in a crash…. So I don't want to buy a new car as my first car - just something fairly cheap, affordable i.e. about $10,000.

I definitely want a sedan. I really don't care about what make, I only care about it being economical and reliable, so preferably Japanese or a Korean car after 2014? I've heard that Korean cars really only started to rival Japanese quality after 2014

From my understanding diesel works out to be the cheapest due to the mileage, then LPG and lastly petrol. So I’d preferably want a diesel then LPG and then a petrol car. However, if I were to buy a petrol car about how much would it cost to get it converted to LPG dual fuel?
Also, I've heard that cats running on LPG lose more horsepower performance over time, is this correct?

I was tempted by the Holden Cruze’s features and cheap price, but from my readings I've found that they really aren't recommended as they are a bit of a lemon.
From my understanding the Cruze is manufactured by Daewoo in Korea and then assembled in Australia. Daewoo appears to be a bit of a lemon tree, is this an overstatement, are there any good Holden Cruze’s?

I've created this spreadsheet list of cars I'm currently considering.
I'm currently leaning towards the following cars:

Car Year Kilometres
Nissan Pulsar St 2013 63k
Toyota Aurion AT-X 2011 74k
Nissan Pulsar St 2014 89k
Hoden Commodore VE 2012 127k
Nissan Pulsar St 2013 63k
Holden Commodore Omega 2012 142k

I'm really only interested in the two Holden's due to them running on LPG and having a reverse camera. I really want a reversing camera, if however the car doesn’t have one I'll get one put in.

Eagerly waiting for replies! 😄

Update 1
I'll mostly be driving around Adelaide, with the occasional drive through the Adelaide Hills - this will mostly be during holiday breaks from uni.
I'm guessing I'd need at least a 2L engine for my needs?

Update 2

I've just changed the sharing on the spreadsheet file, now anyone can view it - sorry

Update 3 I've made up my mind to get a Toyota, unless someone can convince me otherwise

Update 4
I'd just like to thank each and every one of you for all your help. You've been absolutely amazing in helping me buy my first car - a 2013 Toyota Corolla sedan with 70k on the clock for $12,000!😄

Comments

  • +4

    LPG is slowing in popularity. It’s harder to get and not as cheap as it once was. LPG mechanics are also dying out and parts are increasing in price.

    Diesel is OK if you do big kms, not great for city traffic and short runs.

    You’ve listed 2 mid sized cars and 3 large cars. A large car will be less fuel efficient, just physics really. If you don’t need the extra size, get a smaller car. It’ll use less fuel, have smaller cheaper tyres and be easier on brakes etc.

    You are right to avoid a Cruze.

    • +8

      A diesel will also cost more to service, and can have their own issues to deal with (especially turbos etc depending on mileage of the car)

      • Didn't know that, thanks spackbace! So it's looking like petrol and then LPG would be the better options?

    • Thanks for this! 😄 Good to know that LPG is fading.

      Sorry I'm not sure which cars are larger in size. I think a smaller sedan would fit my needs.

  • +7

    Just get a Lancer, Corolla sedan, etc etc. Cheap to service, run, and insure, while having parts readily available.

    Don't bother with lpg or diesel.

    Don't touch the Cruze, or the Pulsars on your list. Depending on your driving confidence would affect whether the Camry/Commodores are worth recommending (bigger cars, more power)

    • -1

      I couldn't find any reasonably priced Lancers. Doesn't bother me though as I'd like to avoid "Lancers" as I once knew someone named Lance who wasn't a nice guy…..

      • +4

        Yeah, coz that's a reason not to buy that car…

        • +1

          Lol I know I shouldn't make it a reason, but this Lance was quite a despicable character

          • +7

            @Wystri Warrick: Get a Lancer knowing that as your first car it will be abused and driven into the ground. Don't wash it, affix questionable stickers over it, be an arse on the road and let psychological suggestion infiltrate your fellow road users about Lance.

    • What's your thoughts on the Mazda 3?

      • +13

        I knew someone called Maz, terrible guy, don't buy a Mazda

    • Hey spackbace, got a few questions I'm hoping you can answer (sorry to bother you, but I know you have a lot of knowledge about cars, you sell cars for a living lol)

      What's the reason you don't recommend Nissan Pulsars?

      I'll be going for the occasional weekend drive (mostly during uni holidays) through the Adelaide Hills, and on the Princess Highway from Adelaide to Mt Barker, my question is would a 1.8L engine provide enough grunt for driving 100kmph on the highway, and going up hills?

      Think I might reconsider getting a Lancer - it is Japanese, and Japan makes high quality cars.

      Yeah I'm getting a lot of feedback that LPG isn't worth it as it requires 1.25 - 1.5x more fuel in comparison to petrol.
      Also getting feedback on diesel isn't worth it for to expensive servicing, and someone mentioned that diesel cars aren't as reliable as petrol cars, is this correct?

      • +2

        Most modern cars, except the cheapest of the cheap can handle 100km/h comfortably.

        Diesel does cost more to service and a turbo does increase risk, but generally a well maintained diesel that is used at highway speeds at lesser semi regularly is just as reliable as a petrol engine. Diesel is more expensive when things go seriously wrong.

        • Thanks for this info Euphemistic :).

          Going by all the comments diesel isn't worth it, expensive to service, and urban commuting isn't very fuel efficient.

      • +1

        When that Pulsar came out, it was basically the same car from 10yrs before, and copped a lot of flack for it. It's just nothing special whatsoever

        • Hey spackbace, thanks for the reply, it was very helpful. So the Pulsar is just a boring car, nothing special - I take it the reliability is good?

          You work at a Toyota dealership right? I've heard that Toyota's are the most reliable car manufacturer. What's your thoughts on a Toyota Camry or Corolla that's done about 200k, if you were in my shoes would you buy a car that's done that much milage?

          • +1

            @Wystri Warrick: There's your search (assuming you would look at a manual as well?) If auto only - Here's your search

            I'd probably look to cap it at 150,000kms, but depends on overall condition

            • @spackbace: Thanks for the links spackbace, and the advice on milage 😊

              Sorry to bother you with so many questions but I know you're very knowledgeable on cars lol :)

  • +1

    How many KMs are you planning on driving?
    Where are you driving city, country, highway?

    • Not sure how many kilometres I'll be driving, probably only a few to several thousand kilometres a year? I mostly use public transport.
      I'll mostly be driving in Adelaide, with the occasional drive down the highway to Mt Barker and through the Adelaide Hills.

  • +2

    Hyundai i30s are now appearing in your price range, too.

    • I had a look for Hyundai i30s but couldn't find any in my price range that were made after 2014

  • +1

    Your VE commodores need assessing for stretched timing chains.$$$$

    • Timing chains? Do VE Commodores need the timing chains changed not regularly?

      • +1

        Chains should last the lifetime of the engine in theory. Timing belts need changing usually every 100-150k km's or 10 years.

        The VZ and VE engines are notorious for timing chains that stretch due to poor lubrication.

        • Ah I see. Looks like the consensus is to avoid getting a Holden

          • +3

            @Wystri Warrick: I have a soft spot for Holden commies ;')

          • +1

            @Wystri Warrick: If you were to get a Holden, pretty much the only one worth getting is a commodore - but that’s a big car and not particularly economical.

            The Colorado isn’t too bad, based on an Isuzu but the rest of the Holden range is pretty much substandard. CruzE ad Captiva especially bad.

            • @Euphemistic: I'm going to stick clear from Holden's.

              MS Paint mentioned timing chairs stretch due to poor lubrication, so getting it fixed is going to cost a few hundred.

              • +1

                @Wystri Warrick:

                going to cost a few hundred.

                Might be ok in the bigger picture (like vs another option which is more dearer without fixes)
                But yeah ultimately your choice :D

                My dream car was a Commie, such a big shame our homegrown Holden icon has been "retired" 😥😥

  • +6

    Get a Toyota…
    Mum x

    • Oh what a feeling Toyota! Yeah I'm definitely leaning towards a Toyota

  • +2

    The Commodore is the choice for hoons and a sure target to get knocked off

    • I was afraid someone would say that lol. I definitely don't want to look like a hoon lol

  • +2

    Holden Cruze is cheap for a reason. If you buy ,then next post you post will be "Bought a Holden Cruze without listening to Ozbargain, big bill arrive after 3 months of ownership"

    Have a look at Honda Civic or Jazz, Collar is a good choice, Mazda 3 not bad but $10,000 won't get you too far.

    • Lol

      Will have a look at the Civic and Jazz. Do you mean Corolla?

  • +2

    OP wants a Korean car yet none of the cars put forward are Korean?

    Would stay away from Holdens unless you like dealing with rapidly degrading interiors and questionable reliability, don't even get me started on a Holden Cruze.

    LPG is a waste of money given the leaps ahead in Hybrid/electrical car reliability. Gas unfortunately has been increasingly popular in power generation which has made LPG financially unviable. (You also tend to use LPG at roughly 1.25-1.5x the rate of fuel.) Which was fine when LGP was 1/2 as expensive as Unleaded, not so much now.

    Can suggest any Kia/Hyundai will easily outlast most cars provided you do the bare minimum to look after them, have had a Kia for 7 years and had zero issues, never broken down, never failed to start except for when the battery finally gave up. Else any Toyota would be fine, provided you're not paying the covid tax.

    • +1

      I could hardly find any Korean cars made after 2012.

      Thanks for the info about the Holden's. Looks like nobody recommends them so I'll avoid buying one.

      Thanks for that info on LPG, I didn't know that it has less milage than petrol.
      Yeah that makes sense about gas prices going up as it's being used more to generate electricity.

      I'll have another look for Kia and Hyundai cars! 😄

    • OP wants a Korean car yet none of the cars put forward are Korean?

      Maybe try reading…

      so preferably Japanese or a Korean car

      • I did?

        OP wants a Korean car yet none of the cars put forward are Korean?

        • +1

          If OP wants Japanese or Korean, why recommend a Korean…?

          It's known that Korean manufacturing is still behind the Japanese, especially on cars of this vintage as well

  • +2

    Definitely wouldn't look at a diesal for your use case. In general short trips aren't good for cars, but they're terrible for diesals

    • Thanks for this. Looks like diesel isn't as economical for short trips, city commuting

      • +1

        Diesel is still economical for short trips. The reason why short trips are particularly bad for diesels is that most modern diesels have a particulate filter installed (a "DPF"). It traps diesel soot from the exhaust, and then is 'burnt off' every now and again. For most cars, the engine has to warm up and stay warm for a burn off to occur - highway driving is recommended for this. So if you rarely take long trips or head out on the highway, the DPF will fill up with soot and not burn off, which will cause you issues.

        • Ah right. Thanks for the detailed explanation redvaldez 😊

  • +2

    "From my understanding diesel works out to be the cheapest due to the mileage, "

    The opposite is true.
    More expensive servicing and not as durable/reliable as petrol motor small cars.
    Usually depreciate a lot faster because of their reputation of being a PITA.

    Best place to start learning about cars and ownership is with parents, relatives, friends or workmates.

    • Thanks for this! Are diesel cars really less reliable than petrol cars, I thought diesel cars were more reliable?
      Yeah I'm hearing that diesel cars cost more to service, would you know by how much?
      Diesel is really looking less favorable. Thanks xywolap :)

      • +1

        They're not less reliable unless you don't do highway driving on a weekly or fortnightly basis. They need to run at a high temperature often to keep them turning and avoid costly replacements. They are usually more expensive to maintain either way. You need to research the servicing costs on a per model basis.

        • Thanks for the the info Techie4066 😊. Think I'm going to have to give diesel a miss as I won't be driving on highways much, mostly urban commuting to work

  • +2

    Kia Cerato.

    • Having difficulty finding Kia's made after 2014 that area in my budget and in SA :(

      • +1

        A little older will be ok.

  • +1

    Being in SA, transfer of ownership does not require a roadworthy inspection. The last car I bought for $400 wasn't even registered. Simply logged on to ezyreg and did transfer and rego on the day of purchase.
    Personally I do get the RAA to inspect cars of $10k and up though and based on your own knowledge this would be advisable. There are other inspection services available too other than RAA.
    .

    • Oh thanks for this Nugs - saved me doing some research on transfer of ownership!

      Yeah I'm definitely going to get a RAA inspector to look at the car, I know nothing about cars and I don't want to buy a lemon 🍋.
      Are there any other inspection services that you'd recommend other than the RAA? Going with the RAA looks like it's going to cost nearly $300

  • +2

    How many km do you think you'll be doing?

    I used to do 25k km a year and fuel was one of my smallest expenses. (1.8 turbo 6.5l/100km fuel use).

    Of the cars on that list I'd get a Pulsar or a Camry

    • Think is only be doing several thousand kilometres a year.

      Some of the cars that I'm looking at have 1.8L engines, do these engines provide enough grunt on a highway, and going up hill?

      Are Pulsars reliable? spackbace recommended to stay away from them.

      • +2

        My car is a 2007 Skoda Octavia family shopping trolley with 202,xxxkm. It has 135kw/330Nm. At 110kph in 6th it is sitting on a lazy 2500rpm. It will do 100kph in 2nd gear. In the past 2 months we've done 3 major country drives covering 4000km on all road types (including tracks that $WD owners said were difficult).

        Even my GFs 1.6L 2000 model Mazda 323 is more than adequate for country roads and overtaking. You just have to use the gears and plan ahead. We've done plenty of country trips with it.

        I would suggest that rather than look at spreadsheets you drive a few cars.

        • -1

          I'm not sure what 135kw/330Nm, and 110kph in 6th gear at 2500rpm means.
          What car is this?

          That's just the kind of real world usage I wanted to know!
          I'm considering on driving up to Darwin and Cairns at least once for a holiday, so it's good to know that your car has been able to handle it such long high speed distances.

          You're right on just going for a test drive in some cars. I'm just more of a analytical data person lol.

          • +1

            @Wystri Warrick: kw is power. The more power you have the faster you will go.

            Nm is torque or tractive force. Torque gives that impression of being pushed back in the seat.

            RPM is engine revolutions per minute. Most average cars can spin up to ~5500rpm and will sound busy/strained above 4000rpm.

            A VE Commodore or Aurion puts out around 170-180kw. My Skoda Octavia isn't particularly powerful but does what it has to do quite easily.

            Our old Mazda is 78kw/145Nm but still does the job but has to be driven a bit harder to do it.

            My GF knows nothing about cars. The easiest way to sell her on a car is to drive it. I know of plenty of cars that look good on paper but don't live up to the figures (my old Subaru Liberty was one) and a few that are far better than the stats suggest (MK3 VW Golf 2.0L).

            • @brad1-8tsi: Thanks so much for this detailed and insightful reply brad1-8tsi! 😊

              I was confused what nm meant, coming from IT my first thought was nanometre, Googled it at its newton metre lol

  • +1

    2013 Hyundai elantra with 90000km for just under $10000 (gold colour, if you’re ok with that)

    • Oh wow thanks for finding that Hyundai bobkin, I'll add it to my list! Must have missed that one :)

  • +1

    Go petrol, go on condition, service history, and potential warranty. Get an inspection.

    • Yeah looks like I'll be getting a petrol Camry or Corolla, thanks for the advice subydooby!

    • Hey amhsavage, yeah I'm really learning towards a Toyota, they don't have much fancy tech in my price range but damn are they good quality cars!
      Some family members who own a 1975 Toyota LandCruiser have been all around Australia, done well over a million kilometres in it, it's like a tank, it only just died a couple of years ago and it wasn't cost wise to have the engine replaced.

      History check, completely forgot about that, thanks amhsavage!

  • +1

    Hey Wystri Warrick, if you have $10k and want a reliable car, I suggest you consider any Toyota of any age with low kms (60,000 km or less). Toyotas are not exciting in any way, but you should have reliability and low servicing costs. Also, get a history check to ensure it's not been written-off or in any major accidents. Good luck and happy motoring!

    • Yeah I'm definitely leaning towards a Toyota for the reliability, don't really care too much about the bells and whistles, though do I really want a car with a reversing camera.

      There's a 2011 Toyota Aurion that I'm looking at that is $10,000 negotiable has done 74,000km.

      • +1

        Wouldn't you prefer a smaller car over an Aurion? The Aurion is a larger car, heavier, uses more fuel, harder to park and find space for. I believe it's Australian built.

        • Yeah a smaller car would be more easier to learn to drive, and be a little more economical, but it doesn't really bother me whether it's a small or larger car - got to learn to eventually drive larger cars as one day I'd like to own a LandCruiser!
          Honestly though I'm more likely to buy the cheaper priced car, so it's most likely to be a smaller car.

          Just wanted to know is the Toyota Aurion and Camry the same car, just different names for different markets?

  • +1

    I happened to buy the same car as my friend's dad who's a mechanic, which was a '99 Camry Conquest. If you want cheap, reliable and relatively cheap to maintain then go Toyota. I love mine. V6 too, so it does feel good to drive. But yeah, when I was asking him he was on the lookout for camries for me. He got one for his son.

    However, there is always a risk getting a 20 year old car. If you're not a mechanic then you can't be sure you're not buying a lemon, really. And you're not going to spend $400 for a mechanic to come out with you and give it a check when the car itself costs 2K. Test drive it and see how it feels and sounds. When I got mine, it seemed to sound and drive fine. It cost 2k, had 5 months rego on it, and 170k on the odm. So seemed like a good deal. Took it to get serviced for piece of mind and could see it needed an oil change and the mechanic said it seems to be in good condition and to just keep an eye on temps.

    I've driven it from Newy to Sydney n back, Newy to Toowoomba and back via the New England Highway and no issues so far.

    So, anyway, my point is Toyotas do seem fairly reliable and well made, but also cheap enough to maintain. And you have a good budget with lots of room to move around in. Mid 2000's Camries can go for around 5k. But if you do want piece of mind and especially if buying from a private seller, hire a mechanic to come out and check it before you buy. You risk losing a few hundred dollars if it turns out to be a lemon, but that's better than spending several thousand on a lemon, that might not last long or cost more than you paid to maintain.

    Also stay away from Holdens, I'm told.

    edit: I did forget to mention that my car is not the most fuel efficient. It's around 100 a tank, so if you're doing lots of small, city or suburban trips it's really not the lowest. That said, fantastic fuel efficiency on highways and those speeds.

    • +1

      Hey DragonautDruid, thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed reply! :D

      I'm hearing a lot of positives about Toyota, I've made my mind up, I'll definitely get a Toyota!

      I think I'll get a more recent Toyota, it'll be more fuel efficient when doing my urban commute.

      Thanks again DragonautDruid!

      • +2

        Yes, Toyota is good, but you pay extra for it. An equivalent model from mitsubishi, Nissan Mazda might be a bit cheaper and not significantly less reliable.

        If you are buying an older car check out what’s on the roads. The more common the better. Ether because there’s so many the parts are cheap or that they just keep going.

        • Ah yes the Toyota tax. I was considering the Nissan Pulsar, and the Mazda 3, I'll still keep an eye out for any bargains from Nissan and Mazda, thanks Euphemistic :)

        • +1

          Yeah, from what I hear Mitsubishi's are fairly reliable. I haven't looked into any particular models myself; I became fairly set on getting a Camry.

          And yeah as you mentioned re older cars on the road, I'm guaranteed to see at least one or two camry's from the late 90's every time I go out driving. So that definitely helped me make the call.

          • @DragonautDruid: Ah yes forgot about Mitsubishi :)

            Is it easy and affordable sourcing replacement parts for a car that's 10-20 years old?

            • +1

              @Wystri Warrick: I would say so, if it's a common make or model. I know I keep mentioning Camry's, but it's only because they're what I'm most familiar with. But using them as an example, they've been a continuous line of production for at least ~20 years. So you can be pretty safe to assume parts aren't hard to come by.

              But I think as well Toyota have been a consistent company. Take Holden for example, which many people say the quality dropped when they stopped making them here in Australia.

              I could be completely making this up but I seem to remember hearing that the Japanese and Korean companies have more of the "car for life" mentality. Which makes sense considering the size of a place like Japan compared to it's population; you really don't want a lot of large waste.

              • @DragonautDruid: Thanks for this info DragonautDruid, very appreciated :).

                I've narrowed the cars down to 4 Toyota's - 2 Aurion/Camrys and 2 Corollas.

      • +1

        No worries. I was in the same boat as you at the beginning of the year, so I know how it feels haha. But, a few months in and I know significantly more about cars now that I own one - especially a slightly older one.

        I don't think you can go wrong with a Toyota, or a Mitsubishi or Mazda as the other poster said. Even more so if you're getting a newer model.

        But just be aware that any make can have duds, and any car can be made to look good from the outside. Definitely do a rego check before buying, and ask if the seller has a log book. That's one thing I didn't get with mine. I have no idea of it's history. It is a bit banged up on the outside and has some bad spray paint cover up jobs, but that's all superficial. As long as there's no obvious big patches of rust. But hey, it runs fine for now!

        Used car places and resellers do have mechanics, so it can give you piece of mind that the car will be sound inside. But look up the place before hand and check reviews. Just because they legally can't sell a lemon, doesn't mean places won't. And again, with private sellers I'd look into getting a mechanic out with you to give it a look over. It is a service people offer.

        Good luck! It's daunting and does take some time to find the right one, but I think at the end of the day it's not as big of a thing as it seems to be. I'll probably be more relaxed buying my next one (if my good ol camry carks it at any point).

        • Haha yeah, I've already learnt so much about cars lol.

          Will definitely remember to ask for the logbook :).
          If it's a bargain buy who cars if it's got some dings and scratches, it's what's under the hood, the performance that counts :).

          I've narrowed the cars down to 4 Toyota's - 2 Aurion/Camrys and 2 Corollas.

          Thanks so much for all the helpful and detailed advice DragonautDruid :D

    • Thanks for the Honda car search, I had forgotten about Honda's :)

  • +2

    Go to a motor dealer and buy a used car that comes with statutory 3 mth warranty (in NSW)
    i.e Under 160,000km
    less than 10 years old

    That way you can sit in and test drive any number of cars until you are content
    Make sure you get the full service history for the car as you want to make sure it have been regularly serviced.
    These are by far the most important criteria for selecting a used car.
    Not fuel consumption. Not brand.

    But stay away from diesel unless you are going to be doing 10s of 000s of country kms
    They are false economy as city cars

    LPG cars will probably have high kms hence high wear and tear so rule them out too.
    Besides LPG is nowhere near as cheap as it was several years ago.
    And cars consume more LPG than petrol
    And you need to take it to a specialist LPG rego inspector so that costs more.

    Contrary to popular belief FUEL is NOT the greatest cost of running a car.
    Its only a few dollars per week.
    Insurance can smash your budget as can servicing and repair bills.

    And stay away from European cars too unless you have an endless bank account and want terrible resale value.

    So dear OP you have all your priorities wrong!

    Just look at the numbers
    Australia's most popular car, The Toyota Corolla, is not a LPG car nor a diesel car
    You think you know better than so millions of Corolla owners? Obviously not.
    Because it not even on your short list of cars

    • Hi Amayzingone, thanks for taking the time to post a detailed and helpful reply :).

      Yeah I'm not going to be getting a diesel, it just isn't suited to my urban criteria. Yeah I couldn't find any LPG cars that weren't under 120k kilometres, and the mileage is less per litre in comparison to petrol, and gas is likely to become more expensive as it gains more traction for electricity generation. Will definitely be getting a petrol car.

      Lol I know about European cars choosing more to repair, definitely won't be getting one lol!

      With respect I did say I'm a car and mechanical noob. I created this post to get first hand knowledge from car owners from tight arses liked myself lol.
      I don't think I know better than millions of Corolla owners, I'm a noob lol. I did have one Corolla in my excel spreadsheet!

      I've made up my mind to get a Toyota, either a Camry or Corolla, unless of course I find a bargain Nissan, Mitsubishi or Mazda :)

  • +1

    I would probably stay away from the auto cvt pulsars they are prone to issues. Manual is all good though, used to own one.
    Also the v6 in the VE commodore is prone to timing chain stretch and can ruin the engine. Its also a very labor intensive job to replace.

    • Oh wow thanks for that tip on automatic Pulsars, I actually listed a few in my spreadsheet.
      Could you elaborate more on what is wrong with automatic Pulsars?

      Yes someone commented about the timing chains stretching due to poor lubrication. So yeah, I'm going to avoid the Holden Commodores, well I'm actually avoiding all Holden cars.

  • +1

    Sorry I can't because I don't know enough about cvts in general and the users who reported issues didn't not specify the problem. They were up for about 3 to 5k for a new transmission though so I assume it was terminal problem. A quick google search should yield you plenty of results, also I think the cvt from the Nissan ultima is similar and there's been many reported failures.

    • +1

      Hey Pluto88,

      All good. While I've narrowed the cars that I'm looking at down to 4 (2 Camry/Aurions and 2 Corollas) I think I might look into the Pulsars CVTS issue, might be helpful in future car purchases or if I give car advice to a friend. I've learnt so much about cars from making this post on OzBargain, and everyone has been so helpful :).

      Thanks again for the tip on the Pulsars CVTS, the Holden Commodore timing chain stretch :)

      • +1

        No worries, you can't really go wrong with a Toyota as long as its been serviced regularly. Toyotas reliability reputation can also be its Achilles heel, some people who buy them think because its a Toyota it will run fine for years without regular servicing but that just isn't the case.

        If you want an extra bit of protection before buying motoring services like the NRMA offer a service to inspect used vehicles before purchase by a qualified mechanic and give you a report on any problem areas.

        • +1

          Yeah I'm definitely going to get the car inspected my a mechanic before I buy it.
          Oh thanks for the NRMA recommendation, the only company that I knew that did inspections was the RAA. NRMA look to be a little cheaper than the RAA, but on their site it looks like they aren't currently offering the inspection service :(

  • +2

    Being a young male I’m statistically more likely to be involved in a crash

    LOL…being in an accident is 99% within your control. If you are involved in an accident, it's because you didn't drive carefully enough, it has nothing to do with your gender or the gender of the accident victims before you.

    • LOL…being in an accident is 99% within your control.

      Exactly, and statistically young men are more likely to drive fast, take risks, drink drive, and drive like hoons. Not that I'm going to be doing any of that, but in comparison to my female friends I do take more risks and I'll probably have one standard drink say at a pub, restaurant and then drive home, in comparison my female friends will absolutely not have a single drink of they are driving

      • You still don't understand. If you decide to drink drive or do anything that increases your risk of an accident, it's because you made a poor decision without thinking it through. It has nothing to do with your gender or the gender of accident victims before you.

        Sure, to insurance companies, you're more likely to be in an accident because you're a male. But that doesn't mean it's necessarily true. A female friend of mine has had way more accidents than I have. Buying a car based on the assumption that you'll have an accident because you're a male is silly. Don't make assumptions about yourself. Consider your own driving skill, your driving history, how you'll be using the car, ans how many close encounters you've had in the past. If those things lead you to believe you'll have an accident, then it makes sense to prepare. But don't prepare for an accident based purely because you have a penis. It's totally possible to be a male and be a very good driver who doesn't need extra protection from accidents. Don't reduce yourself and your decision making to a statistical stereotype.

        EDIT - for the sake of aiding the discussion, congrats on deciding to get a Toyota. It's one of the smartest decisions you'll ever make.

    • it has nothing to do with your gender or the gender of the accident victims before you.

      A lot of people disagree with you…

  • From my understanding diesel works out to be the cheapest due to the mileage, then LPG and lastly petrol.
    So I’d preferably want a diesel then LPG and then a petrol car.

    LOL, you sound like a noob…

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