Need Recommendations for an E-Bike

• 

  pharkurnell on 22/02/2021 - 18:21

  +1

  As Im shoppin for a bike currently - after spending 800+ on a bike, how do people secure then at the shops these days?
  sorry for hijack.

  • 

    expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 18:21

    I'm looking to get a bike insurance. Its probably $300/yr for peace of mind.

    • 

      pharkurnell on 22/02/2021 - 18:22

      300/yr for a 800 bike? Do you mean $30?

      • 

        expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 18:43

        300/yr for a $2400 bike in my case. There's cheaper cover available as well for regular (non-electric) bikes for "47/c per day".

        • 

          [Deactivated] on 22/02/2021 - 20:02

          @expatOz: lol damn, my $3000 brand new kymco 125 is $9 a month full comp

          • 

            expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 20:03

            -1

            @[Deactivated]: Oh thats an 'ozbargain'? Is it an ebike? Who is the insurer? Hmm nice, but you do pay the ~$500/yr rego right?

        • 

          brad1-8tsi on 23/02/2021 - 08:52

          @expatOz: When I bought my Salsa El Kaboing (RRP $6k but cost me $1.5k as the 18 month old ex-press bike) I insured it for $4k and it was $400/yr on my contents insurance. After 2 years it wasn't worth insuring due to depreciation. Buy a decent bike lock.

  • 

    tsunamisurfer on 22/02/2021 - 18:57

    +1

    I have a 3 year old $800 Giant Cross City and I put so many accessories on it that the bike looks like a hobo's bike.

    No one gives my bike a second glance.

    a D lock is the safest but not as flexible as a cable lock, but cables can be cut but I've never had someone want the bike so much to get wire cutters out to cut it.

    • 

      the4thzodiac on 22/02/2021 - 22:08

      curious. got a pic?

  • 

    trongy on 22/02/2021 - 23:16

    U-lock at a minimum. No lock is impregnable to someone with the right tools and prepared to put in a bit of effort. Wire cables, even thick ones can be cut with a single quiet snip. A U-lock at least offers a bit of a challenge. Check youtube video reviews before you buy.

    • 

      kiitos on 23/02/2021 - 07:30

      Where is the best place on the bike to secure it with a u lock? I presume through the frame and rear wheel? Does it just so the wheel from turning? They don't look big enough to secure it to a bike stand, railing, etc.

      I have a cable lock and it's good to be able to lock it against more awkward fixtures.

      • 

        Euphemistic on 23/02/2021 - 10:39

        +2

        Unlock through frame and rear wheel. Add a cable lock through the front, especially if quick release.

      • 

        trongy on 23/02/2021 - 18:14

        +1

        They come in different sizes. My U-lock has 10cm width inside the U and 18cm depth. I always try to put it through the frame and rear wheel. I the fixture is awkward I resort to just locking the frame.

        The reason to lock wheels is that most modern bikes have quick release wheels that can be removed by operating a lever. The rear wheel and cassette is more expensive than the front wheel so if I'm only locking one wheel it will be the rear.

        A cable lock is more flexible when it comes to attachement, but a cable lock can easily be cut through with a cheap pair of wire cutters - for example …. There are plenty of other examples on youtube as well. That makes it unfit for the job in my opinion.

• 

  ECE on 22/02/2021 - 18:30

  Check NCM bikes from leoncycle.com.au

• 

  00 on 22/02/2021 - 18:34

  Dyson

  https://www.dysonbikes.com.au/

• 

  tsunamisurfer on 22/02/2021 - 18:54

  Now 2 days later I realised there're a lot of steep areas near my house

  Did those hills appear in the last 48 hours or you just didn't see them in the last few years

  and with a kid at the back its just impossible.

  Is the child in a seat or on a tagalong?

  These bikes are so heavy that they allow less weight for the passenger, both Reid bikes is max 100kgs for the rider plus bags.

  • 

    expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 18:57

    Yup, the hills didn't appear to be hills while in a car, but they do now :D

    Child seat which has a max weight of 22kg.

    So 100kg for rider + child seems okay and the child will only be riding to/from school not most of the times so there's that too.

    • 

      tsunamisurfer on 22/02/2021 - 18:59

      -1

      Please be careful your total weight is below the limit. The battery and motor is already weighing on the bike.

      • 

        lunchbox99 on 22/02/2021 - 19:24

        +1

        It won't break the bike, it's the stopping power of the brakes that limits the weight.

        • 

          expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 20:54

          @lunchbox99: So that means the breaks would be ineffective at high speeds or around corners with 100+kg … and they'd wear out sooner?

          • 

            lunchbox99 on 22/02/2021 - 21:50

            @expatOz: well yes, but I mean you just need better brakes. I use hydraulic disc brakes with good pads and rotors.

            On my first ebike, I used rim brakes (ie pads rubbing on the wheel style) and on steep hills I felt that it struggled (couldn't stop as fast as I would like).

            • 

              expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 22:09

              @lunchbox99: Urban+ has hydraulic breaks so thats good then.

• 

  brotherfranciz on 22/02/2021 - 19:19

  I don't have any experience with e-bikes specifically, but I would advise you to do a test ride for the Reid bikes. Tell them your use cases and they should be able to help you pick the most suitable.

  You mention that you may do a bit of shopping at Coles so you should think about how you would be carrying the shopping on the bike. You may need a basket, pannier rack, or some other method to carry the shopping. The City Pulse looks like it comes with a pannier rack but I can't tell if it can be used as a pannier rack or if it's exclusively for the battery? Also, I can't tell whether the Urban+ has the appropriate mounts to install a pannier rack. Again, best that you go to Reid and check out the bikes in person (maybe they'll throw in a basket/pannier rack for free and mount it to the bike for you).

  • 

    expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 19:25

    Thanks. Yes, that’s the plan. However I’ve heard they refuse test rides, not sure will see.

    • 

      brotherfranciz on 22/02/2021 - 19:30

      However I’ve heard they refuse test rides

      Really? That can't be right. It's a bit weird as you need to at least figure out how the e-bike works, and you can only do that by riding it…

      Anyway, good luck whatever you decide. You'll get stronger the more cycling you do, so just keep at it and you should conquer those hills in no time! (Also, hills are THE best way to get stronger in cycling.)

• 

  lunchbox99 on 22/02/2021 - 19:28

  +1

  Those e-bikes are not the same. The 2 cheap ones are wheel hub motors, the more expensive one is a bottom bracket motor.

  The latter will give you much more torque and also mechanical advantage of the bike's normal gearing. This means it will go up hills much better than a hub motor and potentially go faster.

  I own a BB motor e-bike that I made myself combining a bafang motor and donor bike with hydraulic disc brakes. I wouldn't buy a hub motor e-bike unless I had a very flat commute.

  Also the weight is lower, which lowers the bike's centre of gravity a bit too.

  • 

    expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 19:44

    Ah thanks. Thats precisely why I'm leaning towards the expensive one and what you said is exactly what i found in my research. So yea, just the kind of validation I was looking for. :)

    • 

      lunchbox99 on 22/02/2021 - 19:48

      Their website says similar to what I said here under "MOTOR & BATTERY POSITION"
      https://www.reidcycles.com.au/pages/ebike-buying-guide-1

      • 

        expatOz on 23/02/2021 - 02:53

        After having another look I can't decide between the Urban + and this MTB https://www.reidcycles.com.au/products/e-trail-2-0-charcoal?…

        It seems to have a shorter range but thats the only drawback? everything else is better?

        I read MTB tyres wear out quicker in the city, is that true?

        • 

          lunchbox99 on 23/02/2021 - 08:31

          @expatOz: Nothing stopping you from changing the tyres to commuter tyres. Just match the rim size.

          That's what I did - my donor bike was a MTB and I have commuter tyres. The added bonus is that it takes 5min to swap the MTB tyres back if I want to go bush bashing, which is awesome on an eBike.

          • 

            expatOz on 23/02/2021 - 08:32

            @lunchbox99: Right okay, and is the opposite also true - MTB tyres or an "urban" bike?

            • 

              lunchbox99 on 23/02/2021 - 08:38

              @expatOz: Maybe depending on the clearance, but its frame would likely be unsuitable for off road riding.

• 

  cnitsuj on 22/02/2021 - 21:19

  I recommend NCM but I think the max capacity load might be an issue as I know people break rear wheel spokes.
  Expired deal https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/604369

• 

  titewod on 22/02/2021 - 21:28

  +6

  I've owned a $7000 mid-drive e-mtn bike for two years (motor was made by a top tier manufacturer) . I've ridden approximately 3500kms on it. What no one in the shops will tell you is that the drivechains on these things are not made to deal with the extra stresses that the electric motor will put on them. I've gone throught the following parts:
  - 2 x cassettes @ $150 each
  - 4 x chains @ $70 each
  - Plastic (yes plastic!) jockey wheels had to be replaced with metal ones. $80
  - Motor bearing rusted, $360 fix (do not let water anywhere near your motor, even on a hardcore mountain bike)
  - New gear cables, cheap
  - New tyres, punctures too big to fix $160
  - Original plastic pedals got minced, replaced with high end metal ones ($150)
  - 4 services ~ $150 each
  - Plus more stuff that I'm probably forgetting…..

  Bike currently needs the following work
  - Headset bearings rusted, need to be replaced. $50-150
  - Wheel bearings are warn, need to be replaced. $200
  - Both front and rear suspension need servicing (100hr interval), approx $400
  - Main bolts holding the frame together (for dual suspension movement) have also rusted, need replacing. Price unknown?

  If you're planning to commute, they can end up being more expensive to run than a car.

  I would recommend that you just throw a hub motor on your current bike. It will take a lot of the stresses off your your drivetrain. You can get cheap hub motor kits on eBay.

  • 

    expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 21:33

    Aha, thats interesting!

    I did consider getting a DIY kit but it turns out to be the same or slightly more expensive. Kit approx 700, getting it fitted approx 200-300 comes to about 1300-1400 mark anyway which is equivalent to the City Pulse. I was looking to go with Urban because of the mid-drive motor and other pros.

    • 

      titewod on 22/02/2021 - 21:42

      Btw, I've added my ebike to my house & contents insurance. Only adds about $12/month.

      Keeping your ebike on the road and away from water will probably save you a lot of the hassles I've had.

      I have a friend who bought an eBay pre-built ebike for $3k. I rode it and it was horrendously bad. I'd take a $3000 non-ebike over that one anyday.

      If you're super keen for a mid-drive, also check out those made by Lekker, they look pretty good for street use (I've never ridden one).

      • 

        expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 22:01

        House and contents insurance only covers damage/theft at home, not when you're out and about, right?

        • 

          BigBirdy on 23/02/2021 - 10:39

          @expatOz: Generally you’re correct, but most/many policies offer cover for specified portable items, which can (potentially, I haven’t tried) cover a bicycle not at home

        • 

          titewod on 23/02/2021 - 21:06

          @expatOz: As @BigBirdy mentioned, it's a specified portable item. The bike is covered everywhere.

  • 

    lunchbox99 on 22/02/2021 - 21:54

    Not sure my total kms but I have had none of those issues. The worst thing for most of the drive chain components is changing gear under high load.

    I fit a gear sensor that cuts motor power for an instant on a gear change.

  • 

    md333 on 23/02/2021 - 13:40

    I've got a solarbike front hub motor ($600), despite running it at over the recommended voltage it is going strong after 22,000km. Doesn't go through the bike's drive train at all, actually reduces the wear on it (I'm still running original belt with 30,000km ). The front hub has a reduction gear in it, so works well on hills, and also a freewheel, so it doesn't slow you down (other than the weight) if running without the batteries.

    I was thinking of upgrading to a purpose built ebike, but still not seeing anything that is much of an upgrade. The mid drive seems like a nice idea to keep the gearing, but I suspect only needed for serious off road walking pace stuff.

    • 

      titewod on 23/02/2021 - 21:09

      I think you're right @md333. Hub motors seem to be the way to go for longevity. They put zero stress on the drivetrain. If I had my time over, I would have kept my old non ebike dual mountain bike and built my own hub powered ebike for commuting.

      • 

        md333 on 24/02/2021 - 01:11

        I think attaching a front hub to suspension forks can be problematic though. The one bit that has failed on my bike is the forks, not at the motor mount but the steerer tube came loose in the crown (only the mudguard bolt giving me any steering control). Doesn't seem like a motor should affect that, but you have to be suspicious. Swapped it over to a steel fork and seems to be going well now.

        Interestingly the front tyre doesn't seem to wear out any faster with the front hub, even though it gets a bit of wheelspin regularly.

  • 

    SlavOz on 11/03/2021 - 13:28

    If you're planning to commute, they can end up being more expensive to run than a car.

    lol no way. None of the expenses you mentioned are comparable to a car. Most of them are due to the fact that you're riding under rough conditions.

• 

  Hybroid on 22/02/2021 - 22:10

  This one is used by a large portion of delivery drivers around the CBD: https://www.leoncycle.com.au/NCM-Moscow-Plus-Electric-Mounta…

  I haven't used them myself but very tempted. Especially their Aspen+ when and if it's ever in stock.

  • 

    expatOz on 22/02/2021 - 22:12

    Out of interest, Aspen is MTB, can you ride a mountain bike on regular roads?

    • 

      Hybroid on 22/02/2021 - 22:36

      Sure, why not? I ride a normal mountain bike on regular roads just fine. Also take it up to Ku-ring-gai trails quite a bit.

    • 

      pharkurnell on 22/02/2021 - 22:39

      Why couldnt you ride a MTB on roads ?? put road tyres on it

• 

  Euphemistic on 22/02/2021 - 22:39

  +1

  None of those bikes seem to have very low gearing. I rode a normal 27 speed mountain bike with a loaded kid trailer a few times and could climb fairly decent hills in the lowest gear. Sure, it was slow but didn’t require batteries - a lot cheaper.

  Your current bike isn’t geared low enough for steep hills, let alone with extra weight to lug around. Purchasing a mountain bike with three front gears (often noted as 3x) or 1 front (1x) wth an 11-42 cassette and a suitable sized front gear will mean you can climb pretty steep sections.

  I currently have a 250w front hub on a bike and without decent low gearing it works really hard up moderate hills - without any extra weight onboard, just me. I need to add pedal power to climb well.

  A mid drive motor will help this, as suggested above, because of the gears.

• 

  BigBirdy on 23/02/2021 - 10:57

  I’d be wary about spending too much on an e-bike, especially after your recent bicycle experience. I bought a cheap’ish e-bike from a local seller on EBay, with an unlabelled 500w hub motor. Hub motor means less wear on the drive train, 500w means it goes up hills. It’s got 27 gears, which I find way too many and don’t use most. I’m not sure it’ll last very long, but I don’t use it very much either.
  As far as security, depending on your use, I always park mine in very public areas, typically outside cafes with outdoor seating. I lock it to a solid fixture using a heavy but not cumbersome plastic coated cable bicycle combo lock. I store the lock cable wrapped around the top bar when riding. I’m sure a thief with a heavy pair of cutters could steal it, but it’d be hard to do without drawing attention.

  • 

    expatOz on 23/02/2021 - 11:24

    Wondering what do you do when there're no bicycle stands around. Just lock it to a metal pole parking signs for eg or a tree?

    • 

      Euphemistic on 23/02/2021 - 12:25

      +1

      Be careful about locking to signs, some can be removed easily, or the bike lifted over the sign. Trees are ok, but need to be big enough to be strong and might make it too hard to get your lock around.

      Some bike racks are secured to the ground well either and could be pulled out. I’ve seen a picture where the rack was bolted to pavers, but the whole paved could be lifted out with the rack.

      I refuse to use bike racks that are out of sight, tucked in a corner somewhere. I never leave an expensive bike unlocked - except at home. Typically I only plan to be a short while when locking a bike, like grabbing a couple of groceries. Ie don’t go for a coffee and cake unless your bike is within sight.

      If you are a regular to a shopping centre or similar ask them to install bike racks.

  • 

    Euphemistic on 23/02/2021 - 12:24

    I’d be wary about spending too much on an e-bike, especially after your recent bicycle experience

    On the contrary. I’d be wary of getting a cheap e-bike. Cheaper e-bikes tend to be low quality bikes with a motor attached. Less durable, less gears, more weight etc.

    • 

      expatOz on 23/02/2021 - 12:28

      Exactly. Its better to spend 2.5k on something that will definitely last a few years and would be fun to ride compared to a dodgy bike which may not do either.

      • 

        Euphemistic on 23/02/2021 - 12:31

        I should add that I own a cheap e-bike, but it’s only because I bought it really cheap and fixed it. I don’t ride it much.

        I do have expensive bikes, but I also own and ride other cheap bikes knowing they don’t matter if stolen.

        • 

          expatOz on 23/02/2021 - 12:37

          @Euphemistic: I can't afford multiple bikes nor do I afford getting a cheap bike get stolen so if I'm buying one I'd rather buy a good one and have insurance.

      • 

        varunynr on 23/02/2021 - 15:13

        Exactly same use case as you without a child though. Let me know what you finalise. I need to commute 50kms a day for 2-3 days a week. Cheers

• 

  Waldo000000 on 23/02/2021 - 15:00

  We had near identical requirements and decided to buy this Leitner bike ($1545 with 16Ah battery): https://leitner.com.au/collections/electric-bikes/products/e…

  Highly recommended. It's the only one I could find with a throttle, which is a must have when the kid's on the back and you're starting from stand still at lights/crossing.

• 

  chrisharry53 on 23/02/2021 - 16:56

  Maybe contact this mob who supply Aust Post, Dominos, etc https://www.electricvehicles.com.au/products

  • 

    chrisharry53 on 23/02/2021 - 17:00

    Power-Ped electric bicycles is one of their's

• 

  leiiv on 24/02/2021 - 10:14

  I am also looking for an ebike and found that it is not easy to find the right one online.
  Is there any brand/model that comes with one child seat (>3 years old) by default and has small form factor (unlike all of OP options)? Even better if it can be folded.
  I have seen people riding smallish ebike but not sure if it can be fitted with a child seat.

• 

  FocusRider on 24/02/2021 - 12:30

  If you ride the same route everyday you will eventually build up enough fitness and leg strength without needing an e-bike =)

  • 

    expatOz on 24/02/2021 - 13:39

    True, but its not the only thing I want from a bike. School is 5 min walk so its bot an issue. I just want a bike that I can take anywhere and not worry about not being able able to return or not being able to drive on certain roads etc