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HDMI Audio Extractor & Optical SPDIF + 3.5mm Audio $26.99 + Shipping ($0 with Prime/ $39 Spend) @ Tendak Amazom AU

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One HDMI Input to one HDMI Output(Pass Mode), SPDIF (Optical) digital audio output(2CH/5.1CH Mode), and 3.5mm Stereo audio output(2CH Mode); It comes 3.5mm to RCA Stereo Audio Cable, input resolution up to 4K@30hz, 1080P/60Hz, 3D/24Hz. Note: This HDMI audio extractor does not support 4K@60hz, 122hz or higher.

Supports 24 bit /deep color 30bit, 36bit per channel (36bit all channel) deep color; Supports Video EDID Pass Through, Audio EDID Settings: Pass, 2CH and 5.1CH

3.5mm audio output supports 2CH PCM stereo audio only. SPDIF Output supports 2CH PCM, 5.1CH Dolby Digital, DTS Audio. Note: It do not support PS5 at 4K@60hz, please adjust it to 4K@30hz or lower.

Suitable for various HDMI source devices like Roku or Chromecast without dedicated audio output as well as Blu-ray/ DVD/ HD player, cable/satellite box, Amazon Fire TV, Apple TV, PS3/4, Xbox, PC/laptop, HD camera, HD DVR etc

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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closed Comments

  • What Hz does this support at 3440x1440 ultrawide? (Does it support ultrawide resolutions?)

    • Are you using it with a PC?

      • I would, yes.

        • You'd be better off getting a USB DAC for a PC, if you want a Toslink port. Over something like this. As you'd also want to be running off of a display port over HDMI with a PC.

  • +1

    These things really need to start offering HDMI 2.1 to do 4k/120

    • +1

      I would not be $30 if it did.

    • +1

      If you have a 4k/120 TV it would likely support ARC or have it's own solution for audio output

      • +2

        Correct, though the issue is that the PS5 doesn't support Optical, so HDMI/Optical adapters are needed to run some of the high end wireless headsets.

        • -1

          Optical is ancient, HDMI is infinitely better if your gear supports.

          • @Mickice: Right, because so many headphones have HDMI input…

          • @Mickice: I just ordered one. I have an old high end amp with high end speakers. I would like to sometimes play music from my Chromecast TV. This will allow me to split the audio to the old amp and send the video to the TV.
            Hopefully…

        • I run a GuliKit USB audio adapter in my PS5 and connect my Sony XM3 headphones this way using AptX and it works well.

  • Would this help connect an Xbox One to an old (15yrs) tv? I currently have a hdmi + audio converter that works fine for Xbox 360 but not for the Xbox One? Sorry for noob questions, don’t know anything about this stuff😬.

    • +1

      No, this is just to split out audio from the HDMI, to use it with a Toslink connector. Which your Xbox ONE would already have built in.

  • +1

    How does this compare to the product listed?
    https://www.amazon.com.au/QUMOX-Audio-Extractor-Splitter-Tos…

    For a few extra dollars I'm thinking the following now, can connect all devices into this and switch with IR then don't have to worry about Amplifier or TV inputs either ;-)
    https://www.amazon.com.au/Switcher-Control-Optical-TOSLINK-S…

    OP it seems this would be your equivalent product… how does it compare to the better 'looking' product above and do you have a discount if your's is better?
    https://www.amazon.com.au/Tendak-Switcher-Optical-Toslink-In…

  • It does not look like this device supports Dolby Digital Plus, so I'd suggest you skip it as many TV apps only output that format

  • As it's limited to 4k30 or 1080p60, this isn't worth it.

    I bought this one, which I have successfully run with the xbos series X to pass 1080@120hz and extract Dolby Digital for my ageing turtlebeach XP500 headphones.

    Kept them alive a few weeks until I plonked down for the newer stealth 700 Gen 2 and now I don't need it lol.. was $29 but they appear to have gone up to $35.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4K-60Hz-Audio-Converter-Extracto…

  • I bought this exact product in Oct 2019 same price. Works decently enough for PS4 slim (no optical out on it, unlike PS4 Pro which does), although this thing will crap out/boot loop itself. I reckon the soldering isn't good inside and a power cycle usually gets it going, sometimes power cycle 2-3 times.
    I just remembered I have posted this same review on a previous post haha.

  • Just bought this yesterday for 34.99 on amazon

    I want to get higher res audio from usb c to toslink from my MacBook.

    So I’m going usbc > hdmi > this thing > toslink out > toslink in on speakers

    Hope it does the job.

    If not I’ll give it away.

    • Yeah this didn’t work for what I wanted it for. Any ozbargainer in Sydney want it? Otherwise I’ll return it

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