SpeedHammer Plus Multi-Fit Drill bits used by trade workers for drilling in concrete, granite, masonry and brick. Hot isostatically pressed to extend life and resist breakage. Shot-peened, double-tempered finish also reduces breakage - Tungsten carbide tip, Fully hardened body, SDS-Plus multi-fit shank.
10mm $5 (Was $15.98)
16mm $10 (Was $24.98)
25mm $15 (Was $64.98)
Credit to Pricehipster
Had a bit of a Chuckle at this
Haha. Finally a +1 worthy comment @jv.
You're driving me crazy with these dad jokes.
I bought a few, couldn't quite afford a /8 (like usual), 1024, or even a /24. :-(
Very good price and I'd certainly buy one if I ever had the need for one, but I also wanted to say that I recently changed to bits with four cutting edges, rather than two. So much smoother, in my opinion.
Note: The picture is a bit misleading, it's a much smaller bit that's shown.
got a recommendation for 4 cutting edge bits? didn't know they existed. cheers
edit: nvm, these are SDS shank bits. but still, keen to hear your recommendation if you have one.
I'm no real expert, just a keen DIYer, but for cheap(ish) and cheerful, I like Kango. Definitely satisfies my needs.
Grabbed a 10mm. Now I just need a SDS drill lol
you could probably use it in a standard drill if the shank fits, but I've never had to try as I've had an sds and if you do why would you?
You're effectively trying to grab a square with a triangle, so while it will obviously hold, it likely won't be centered correctly.
What? SDS drill end is round like normal drill, except for the "SDS grooves" on it.
@ripprind: If you think that will centre in a chuck, then go for it!
You might want to go a couple of sizes down though, as your hole will end up being bigger than the bit.
Bought. Great deal. have 2 SDS drills and the 25mm will come in very handy. THanks OP
25mm bit for 15 bucks is a bargain, all my tools got stolen a couple of years ago and I've been holding off getting these until i really needed them again. I got a 10mm and a 25mm for 20 bucks! Thanks op!
Grabbed one of each. Thanks OP will come in handy some day…
I know $5 is a nice price for SDS drill bits, but seriously check out the 4 Head Kango ones.
They'll go through reinforced concrete like butter. Well worth the little bit extra.
Just saw your message, I totally agree, they're definitely value for money!
5mm,5.5mm,6mm even $3,, bought 20 pieces ($127),, thanks OP..
whata are you drilling through?
Great price, will pick up a few.
Anyone had any experience destroying the 4 Head Kango ones? I went through about 3-4 drill bits in <30 holes through brick. Not sure why, but the head overheated got destroyed pretty quick.
Yeah, this happened to us last weekend, tring to go through concrete, only poured a few weeks ago, didn't even hit reinforcement, but it still almost caught on fire. Tried one of the Irwin ones, and it was fine, went through with no issues.
If you're overheating them it sounds like you're running them too fast, or have a rotary hammer with low hammering force.
Are you using a 'hammer drill' or a 'rotary hammer'.
Even the cheapy Ozito rotary hammer puts out 3 joules of impact energy. For $100 I've used that into 30 year old reinforced concrete (HARD!) and with the kango 4 head/cut its like a hot knife into butter.
A hammer drill (a normal drill with a hammer function) is next to bloody useless for concrete to be honest.
They spin fast, and their impact energy is not going to be anywhere near a proper rotary hammer. In masonry, its impact energy not spinning speed that does it.
If you're burning the drill bit, I'm going to take a guess with all my money that you're using the later.
Struggling in brick??? That's a real concern. Brick is soft, man made, brittle, and very fragile. With a rotary hammer and a Kango 4 head you'll drill a hole through brick in literally 2 seconds (maybe less). Just punches straight through- no exaggeration.
4 drill bits gone into less than 30 brick holes? Something definitely wrong there. Use the right tool for the right job for much better results. Go buy the Ozito Rotary Hammer for $99. And then try it on a scrap piece of brick. You'll feel like a brand new man ;).
I have the Ozito Rotary Hammer, but was using a Dewalt cordless rotary (DCH133 or something similar). Using the Dewalt - it was fine on concrete, but not sure why it struggled so much with these bricks.
We talking about the SDS max K4 model? Never had them overheat. But they did shatter easy.
Been using the original 4 cut drills. Hilti TE-CX, yes they are a lot more expensive but have lasted
Kango SDS plus - 4 head cut
Only took a couple of holes before they got red hot.
What do I do not to blunt the sht out of these?
Tried a sutton one through concrete. Got maybe 60mm before it was blunt as
Try the Kango ones. I've managed to do more than 50 60mm holes through 3mm steel plates into a slab with a single 7mm Kango bit.
i thought suttons are more expensive than the kangos
I haven't used the Sutton bits before, just luck maybe.
Using a rotary hammer drill in hammer mode?
I have no experience, but can imagine that an ordinary drill or a standard hammer drill would give poor results.
Maybe less speed and more pressure?
Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I bought an 8mm drill bit to fit 8mm wall plugs but the plugs are slightly loose such that they rotate when I install the screws.
Is it my drilling method or poor quality wall plugs or other?
http://www.starplug.com.au/Articles.asp?ID=252
According to a fine print on this chart…
"For soft bricks and lightweitgh concrete use a drill 1mm smaller than the above size."
Cheers. The drill set that I bought only coincided with wall plug sizes. The person at Bunnings also confirmed to match the drill size with the wall plug size. Bugger.
Beware most concretes and bricks with large, hard lumps in soft subtrates. These cause the tip to want to wander around each lump, making the hole larger and/or less straight.
Sometimes a very hard material makes the bit bounce to the sides (not just back) once it begins the hammer action. If the drill is poorly balanced, it will exacerbate this effect. The bit should run true and not vibrate outwards around the chuck's axis when the hammer mode engages. A premium drill (eg. AEG/Hilti/Bosch) is not just a better motor design, the gearbox and the precision and robustness with which the entire thing is built helps to ensure results.
That said, when wandering is a problem, drilling a pilot hole is a good way of reducing the resistance presented to the drill bit, and will make your 11mm wobbly hole more like 10mm one that runs straighter through the material.
@resisting the urge: Got it. Will give the suggestions a go next time. I'm only using an 18V Hitachi hammer drill.
As I am not the best home handyman, I always drill a pilot hole first when doing stuff around the house. Eg for a 12 mm hole I needed for my wall mounted clothesline I did a 6mm then 10mm before the final 15/32 bit.
Thank you. Will do that next time.
It took me a while to get used to drilling into concrete, bricks or masonry too. Always had this exact problem, you need to drill a straight hole and not wander like someone else mentioned. It's easy for the hole to get larger than intended.
I gave up for a while but (out of necessity) have gotten much better at it.
Take a look at this video, I haven't used the technique, but found it very interesting. Could have used it back in the past when I had stuffed up some holes I drilled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSCR3dwaDTo
You might be able to put some cable like this beside your plug when you push it in. Then the screw will expand things and make a tight fit.
Thank you for the link. I have also read that you can wedge toothpick(s) around the wall plug. Will know for next time.
Ripper pricing. Grabbed $130 worth
Great price, picked up a few. The 20mm bits are normally around the $45 mark each.
Thanks . Got few 25 and 20s for light duty conduits.
If you buy 8, is it a Masonry Drill Byte…
-Ok I'll let myself out…